Featured Content

Cheers to Cusco
Peter Weiss is a name in the Hard Enduro world that you have most likely heard of. This is the guy that gets contracted by race organizations to build hard enduro race tracks. Look him up sometime...He has a long list of great race courses under his belt. In addition he does enduro schools and exhibitions that usually accompany his travels to various parts of the world. While Peter was in Peru laying out the route for the El Inka Hard Enduro, he wanted to come out to Cusco and do some tourism stuff as well as pack a couple of good days of riding into his schedule. It was ON! This is what its like to ride the Andes with a pro! I don't always have the chance to ride with pro level riders like Peter. What I like about it most is that I get a chance to stretch my ability by trying new things. I can't take big risks when riding solo, which is what I do most of the time. So Peter shows up and my buddy Alex and I decide to show him some of what the Andes are all about. Big mountains that stretch up to the 16,000 ft mark just behind my house. He was stoked to give it a go. We rode for two days, covered a bunch of types of terrain, and returned home with huge smiles on our faces.  I will let the video do the talking. This guy likes the routes tight and crazy...He got what he wanted!   Keep your eyes out for Peter Weiss. He puts down some killer GPS tracks for a number of races in South America and other parts of the world.  Check out The El Inka Hard Enduro(ZICK is the race organization) in Peru which takes place around the beginning of December. Peter's route this past race left only a small handful to reach the finish line... Mario Roman took home the prize. I always look forward to riding with Peter.  If you get a chance to take part in an enduro school of his, you won't be disappointed. Enjoy the video and make sure to follow this blog so you can stay tuned to what's happening in the enduro world of Peru...   Wheels down, Scottiedawg Scott Englund of MotoMission Peru is a social entrepreneur who puts together hard enduro tours in the Andes of Peru. Feel free to contact Scott via this blog, or catch up with him on Facebook at MotoMission Peru. Also, you can see all of his tour videos and more on the official MotoMission Peru Dirtbike Adventures channel on Youtube.      
Posted by scottiedawg on Jan 18, 2018

Rhino USA Digital & Analog Tire Pressure Gauges
I've been using both of these Rhino USA tire pressure gauges for a couple of months and really like them a lot. Both feel like good quality tools that will last with regular use and while they do a rather simple job well, it's the attention to detail and thoughtful features that make them stand out in of sea of options for this category. Case in point, when my family chose to evacuate for hurricane Irma last fall, I ended up checking the tire pressures on my heavily loaded down Chevy Tahoe in the dark wee hours of the morning. My previous digital tire gauge lacked the illuminated tip and backlit LCD readout of the digital Rhino USA unit, so I had to take a reading and walk around to the interior dome light to read each result. Not the end of the world, but when you're trying to beat literally millions of other refugees to the roads, having either of the Rhino gauges would have saved me time and frustration in that rush. I also appreciate how easy that the large backlit numbers of the digital gauge are to read for these 49 year old eyes. I need reading glasses for most smaller print, but not for either of the Rhino USA gauges. If you're like me, when you need your reading glasses, they are nowhere to be found! The Rhino USA digital tire pressure gauge illuminated tip and large backlit LCD readout make using it in low light conditions a breeze. The digital unit is compact, very light weight, has an ergo grip design, and operates with a single push button trigger that allows you to cycle through readouts in psi, bar, kpa, and kg/cm. After approx. 30 seconds, the unit will automatically turn itself off, so there is no way to kill the battery by accidentally leaving it on. The analog unit has an easy-to-read 2" readout that glows brightly when exposed to light for just a few seconds. The gauge head is protected with a rubber ring that looks like a gear, giving you a good non-slip place to hold it as well as absorbing shock if you accidentally drop it. The cloth braided rubber filler tube uses brass fittings on both ends that swivel 360 degrees, so in combination with a 45 degree tip fitting, it's easy to get it squarely on your tire's schrader valve fitting without leaking air or the gauge tube binding up. Actual photo of how the Rhino USA analog tire pressure gauge glows (taken with a Samsung Galaxy S6 Active cell phone). Finally, Rhino USA backs up their product with a lifetime warranty and this is huge for tools, something that you can use pretty much forever. Some things you're better off buying once and for me, tools fall into that category. I didn't find any deficiencies using either product and with rather affordable price points on both units, I'm happy to give them five stars. Good job Rhino USA.  Rhino USA analog tire pressure gauge. More info and products @ https://www.rhinousainc.com/
Posted by Bryan Bosch on Jan 15, 2018

Supersprox Stealth Sprocket
Last summer, the folks at Supersprox USA contacted me to ask if I'd like to try to destroy one of their Stealth Rear Sprockets. I guess that I have a reputation of being hard on stuff! I've run both aluminum and steel sprockets from a variety of brands, usually whatever fit the budget, but the lightness of aluminum and longevity of steel found in the Stealth design sounded pretty awesome. A more accurate term is probably "light-ish", because the sprocket is not made entirely from aluminum. It uses a 7075-T6 aluminum center carrier with a nickel coated carbon steel outer ring riveted to it. Supersprox lists the Stealth Sprocket as handling power from motorcycles up to 1400cc, so my GasGas 250 2T dual sport has margin to spare. The Stealth Sprocket is not all business, coming in flashy anodized colors that add some excitement to your hub. I received a 48 tooth sprocket in a nice looking anodized red that compliments my GasGas well, but a few months of Pac NW singletrack have pretty much taken care of the pretty part. But, I'm a function over form guy, so I'm happy. Installation is the same as any other sprocket with mounting bolts/nuts being sold separately. And, don't go cheap! Do the job right and install new hardware with threadlock. I did a weight comparison with the steel sprocket that I removed: All steel: 2lbs. Supersprox USA Stealth: 1lb. 10oz. Weight saved: 6oz. (about the weight of a proper billiard ball.) As a percentage, that's an unspung weight savings of just under 19%. Not sure that this translates into a measurable performance advantage for most recreational riders, but for racers who are looking for every possible edge, saving weight while maintaining durability matters. Since last summer, I've put nearly 1,600 miles on the Stealth Rear Sprocket, two-thirds being technical singletrack and the rest gravel roads and tarmac. I've packed it full of mud, sand, gravel, and lots and lots of snow and ice. It's been used to launch over roots & rocks, 60 mph highway jogs, and a constant barrage of decaying plant life from woods riding. About the only visible wear is that some of the nickel teeth coating has been rubbed off by the chain. So, still tons of life left in this sprocket. I'll have to report back when it finally wears out, but I expect that to be a long while. My testing conditions: For those who'd like to understand how I maintain my drive components, I installed the Stealth Sprocket with a new chain, using the fairly standard "3 finger" GasGas method for tension. I cleaned the chain and sprocket thoroughly after any muddy ride and lubed it up with PJ1 Black Label Chain Lube as needed. So, over-all, what do I think of the Supersprox USA Stealth Rear Sprocket? It's been outstanding. If you're looking to save a little unsprung weight and want your sprocket to stand-up to abuse for a long while, this sprocket is up to the task.  I will definitely be running another one when the time comes. More @ https://www.supersproxusa.com/supersprox-stealth-sprockets/
Posted by DarkCRF on Dec 26, 2013

Simple Components of Success That You Can Do Today!
To help you get the most from your daily efforts, here are some reminders on how to optimize your training & racing efforts. Eat Prior to Working Out If you eat too soon before you head out, you could be plagued with G.I. (gastro-intestinal) issues. But if your last snack or meal was more than three hours ago, you could run out of energy. The goal is to time your meals & snacks to provide a stabilized blood sugar level throughout your training sessions specific to your intensity levels. Accomplish this by eating every 2 hours after you wake up in the morning. Allow 2 hours after eating a complete meal before exercising – this allows for complete absorption and proper purging avoiding cramping. If you are tight on time, consume 8-10 ounces of Energy Fuel just prior to provide your brain and muscles the easily absorbable carbohydrates and electrolytes necessary for optimum muscle contraction and sweating.   Foam Rolling (please use these videos) Use a foam roller before your workout and/or before working out. The direct pressure helps vasodilate (open up) the tissue bringing fresh blood to the muscles about to be used. When you foam roll prior to stretching, you will reduce the activation of the Stretch Reflex, reducing your risk of a pulled muscle. Chronic aches and pains like Achilles tendinitis, planter fascia, etc. benefit from direct pressure before exercise because it increases blood flow & muscle elasticity. Training is more productive when tender/sore spots are warm. Start by rolling with a tennis ball move to a lacrosse ball then manual massage then sport specific exercise.   Warm Up Your warm up is an activity that allows the body to transition from inactivity to activity and to distribute the blood flow into the extremities. This distribution of blood warms up the muscles, tendons, cartilage and ligaments avoiding any cramping or tearing.   Refuel Immediately after training, your muscles and liver are looking for simple sugar to replenish your storage levels for the next workout. Your window of opportunity is 20-30 minutes after you finish because of an enzyme (glycogen synthase) that is at its highest activity level immediately following exercise. By consuming real food that is easily digestible is the key to optimum replenishment and recovery. By implementing these non sweating performance elements on a daily basis, just adds more tools to help you Work Smart, Not Hard! Yours in health & sport, -Coach Robb     
Posted by Coach Robb on Dec 11, 2017

Alpacas in the Crosswalk
Guiding groups of dirtbikers through the Andes of Peru is surreal. First of all, it is a huge privilege to be able to do what I do. I love riding dirtbikes as much as anybody possibly can. Combine that with serving others by leading groups on various trails, providing communication support such as translating a menu, or taking a picture or video to help recall the memory at a later date, these are the things that I do. There are many other tasks as well, but to simplify things, my job isn't much of a job. It's pure joy!     I always love it when people take a daring step towards something adventurous; Quitting a job to travel, starting a business, becoming a volunteer, adopting a child. This seems to be where life really gets exciting. Most of the people that join me on dirt bike tours are just that...They take the steps that most won't.  I love hanging out with these kinds of peeps. Recently, a couple of guys got in touch with me about doing a three day ride. One of the guys had a lot of dirtbike experience, but it was a couple of years back. The other, had experience, but it was 25 years back. This poses a challenge for a guy like me who has a duty to my customers to provide a legendary motorcycle experience. How can I mix these two friends up, show them some amazing back country of Peru, and somehow keep them safe, cover the necessary ground to complete the route, and assure them a plethora of smiles? It was a tall order, but I was willing to give it a go. I asked a lot of questions in order to get to know these guys a bit. Each customer is different and will respond to risk, thrill, fatigue, and stress in various ways. I put a plan together to cover a route that had all the elements to satisfy the more experienced rider, but also have easier options in case anyone was overwhelmed with the trail level. These guys put it all out there. We made it. I pushed their limits, gave them the thrill they were looking for, and had an amazing time getting to know a couple of great fellas. The whole experience is one that I give to my customers, but I also reap the benefit of the adventure. I often receive the privilege of lighting a flame of dirtbike passion in someone who may have lost it a while back. A few days after the trip, one of the guys let me know he was in the market for a new dirtbike...That's music to my ears. It's always a tough one to match skills in a group so that everyone can ride at the same level. In fact, it is almost impossible. However, I often deal with the differences. In this case, I used a smaller bike, had various route options, allowed the faster rider the freedom to freeride, and used a lot of flexibility in the plan. By the end of the first day, the lack of the past 25 years of riding became a non issue. A few tips, some verbal encouragement, and a reassurance that our team will make it to the other side was all that was needed. What a thrill it is for me to assist a customer to overcome obstacles on the trail! Do yourself and another rider a favor by opening up and being that mentor to help a newbie learn what someone taught you. We are all recipients of someone else's experiences. It costs little to share, but opens up a world to those who want to experience what we have. Make sure to check out the video to see what it's like to ride in the Andes of Peru! Until the next time, keep the wheels down! Scottiedawg Scott Englund is a seasoned hard enduro guide, explorer, and social entrepreneur living and operating MotoMission Peru in the heart of the Andes of Peru. MotoMission puts together a high end hard enduro tour filled with every kind of amazing you can think of. Contact Scott at Scott@motomissionperu.com to find out more about riding in the Andes.    
Posted by scottiedawg on Dec 04, 2017


Trailer loading options
Heading to West Virginia this fall, typically use a small Bike trailer or the back of the truck. We will be moving 6 or 7 bikes in an enclosed car/snowmobile trailer and am looking for advice on an inexpensive way to tie them down that will be secure without buying 7 wheel chocks
What should the last sentence of a conclusion be?
  To establish a sense of closure, you might do one or more of the following: Conclude by linking the last paragraph to the first, perhaps by reiterating a word or phrase you used at the beginning. Conclude with a sentence composed mainly of one-syllable words.Concluding sentences have three crucial roles in paragraph essay writing services. They draw together the information you have presented to elaborate your controlling idea by: summarising the points you have made. repeating words or phrases from the topic sentence.
need help rv dealer damaged truck bed
I have a 2012 Ford F-350 Lariat with under 45000 miles that I purchased new. Just purchased a fifth wheel toy hauler from a multiple line and multiple store dealer to also install the fifth wheel hitch. I am very particular about the truck and have never had anything in the bed of truck and told them so. I have a enclosed bike trailer that I use and an old truck for hauling. I realize that multiple holes had to be drilled to install the hitch but they miss measured and drilled another hole next to the first hole and oval the holes. Now I have a 2 inch by 3 inch hole. They also slid the hitch rails around the bed and scratched and gouged the bed in multiple areas. So what do I need to do. Anybody else had this issue? Thanks

Dirt Bike

Liquid cooled bikes
Both my son and I are moving up to bigger bikes which will be liquid cooled. Just looking for suggestions as to winter storage. They will be stored inside but will be subject to sub zero temperatures.
This weekends "Triple Crown"
So this weekend is the start of the "Triple Crown" series. Who's going to come out on top??   I'm guessing that KRoc should get his 1st victory of the season during one of those shortened Mains. (He's proven me wrong with his ability, that's for sure!) And I'm guessing that  Anderson will pull one victory as well. He's gaining confidence, and that will be enough for him to maintain the Red plate for another weekend. The 3rd Main?? No idea!!! Will Tomac come back?? MM?? Seely??
2015 + with black plastics
Does anyone have the black plastics on there 2015+ RR's Im looking at new plastics and black is very tempting. Would like to see how it looks on bike. Not Photoshoped on.  Thanks 


Utility Quads are cool too, Let's see your pictures!
There must be a whole lot of cool Utility Quad images out there, let's share what we got  I'll go first with my 2013 Rancher 420: Best wheel barrow I've ever had   
post your rides
my 250f mine and my step dads 2003 honda forman my dads rhino
2003 Raptor 660 bogs down. NOT the PB sensor or reverse sensor
I have an 03 raptor 660. Rebuilt top end. New head, piston, cylinder, etc. Has after market exhaust, and K&N filter. It fires right up and idles smoothly. But will bog down when tried to rev. Here's a list of things I've done and checked. What else can I look into?? I can post a video if needed.  Parking brake sensor disconnected Green and white reverse wire grounded to the battery Checked air filter and even tried with filter off. Gutted box with the lid Carb has been completely dismantled and cleaned thoroughly, twice Left carb fuel screw 2 turns out, right carb fuel screw 3 turns out  No air intake leaks, fuel leaks or anything of such Floats have been properly adjusted.  22.5 pilot, 140/145 main jets Needle clips are 3rd notch down from the top New spark plug Valves and timing checked  I'm sure it could maybe use slightly bigger jets with the air filter and exhaust, but it wont even rev up enough to get out of its own way. What else can I check for?!  


BMW Airhead Build Adventure
I'm a little apprehensive to start a build thread here in the Street forum as it sees very little attention, but I would still like to chronicle the multiple adventures I have had during the past two years of owning a 1978 BMW R80/7.   Note: THIS WILL BE PHOTO HEAVY!    Some history about this specific bike. My father bought it for himself back in 2006 when I was 15 years old for a price of $800. He told me I could get my motorcycle license with it (at 15 years old, would you say no to that?) and so I did.   Fast forward to 2014, I was getting bored of my FZ6 because it didn't really excite me anymore, so I sold it and asked my dad if I could buy the old Beemer. We agreed on a price of $2000, so I picked it up a few weeks later.   June 3rd, 2014: The bike the day I took it home, with the fairing and racks removed.   July 7th, 2014: The bike kept blowing fuses. If you look carefully at the first photo, just above the headlight on the right side, you'll see two fuses sticking out. This was definitely not a stock setup and fuses kept blowing and breaking due to poor installation. Here's my remedy:   August 1st, 2014: Valve covers painted black. And if you notice all the oil on the cardboard, my attempts to fix those leaks are where all my problems come from.   July 7th, 2014: Somewhere around this time I decided to switch to drag (flat) bars. I overtightened the clutch perch and snapped the clamp clean in half. $40 and a "new" perch, and it's ready to go again.   August 10th, 2014: CV Carb rebuild.   January 2015: I decided to pull off both jugs to replace the pushrod seals. While doing that, I cleaned the pistons, as they have to be pulled anyway. I cheaped out and decided to reuse wrist pin circlips and piston rings. DO NOT DO THIS EVER. If the piston comes out, get new rings, hone the cylinder, and replace every part the manual says to replace. It has cause me so much grief, time, and especially money down the road. This is the only picture I have from that.   I'll stop for the moment. My next post will go into all the trouble the bike caused me during 2015.
First Ducati!
(This is a re-post from the Sport section...sorry, mods. I think it's better in this forum.)   Any Ducati experts in the house? I am driving to go pick up an '07 1098 from a guy tomorrow, and it seems like a pretty solid deal. Except that he doesn't know any history of the bike because he picked it up at an auction initially for his personal use, but has decided to flip it. He gave me the VIN and I was able to track down much of the bike's history, from initial purchase, recalls, a couple early warranty claims, and most maintenance through 2014, to where I am comfortable dropping a few grand on it. It has had less than 300 miles since 2014 (documented) and the price he's asking is a steal of a deal. And the guy is definitely a Ducati and general racing enthusiast and seems to know his stuff when I talk to him.   The original owner paid good money for some pretty nice mods (such as an OEM Ducati performance exhaust), but it does look to me like it's got aftermarket plastic on it and was likely down on the right side at some point since it looks like the front brake lever was broken and is missing the tip, it's got an aftermarket carbon clutch cover, and aftermarket rearset footpegs. But it's super clean and the guy says it runs perfectly.   My plan is to get the thing home, remove the body work, change the oil and flush the coolant, and take it straight to my closest dealer for new timing belts and a general inspection over everything else. It's only got a little over 10,000 miles on it, this is my first Ducati ever, and my first street bike (not counting WR in supermoto trim) in almost 20 years!   I'd appreciate any opinions.  
Help Me Find Out What This Is
I have absolutely no experience with street bikes, but I was riding my dirt bike in the mountains and found this frame. I called the police department and checked the vin and it isn’t stolen, does anyone know the year and model of this Frame, my guess is it is some kind of street bike but I really don’t know what the make or model is and I looked over the whole thing and there are no other identifying marks.


Yamaha Sno Scoot won't turn over
Went out for a ride today on a new to us Yamaha sno scoot (1980).  Rode it for about 10 miles on the river.  When we finished the ride it smelled hot so I turned it off and let it cool for 15 minutes.  Next we rode it home and it was all good until I went to start it in the garage.  My daughter kicked it over once, then on the second attempt to start it, the kick starter wont kick.  I.e.  It's stuck.  I can still roll the sled.  I.e.  The track moves freely but not sure if that matters.  Really hoping we didn't pile up the engine. I'm pretty handy but have never rebuilt an engine before or even taken one apart to see if its genuinely piled.  I'd imagine these old two strokes are pretty simple but am wondering where to start.  Any input would be appreciated.    
1997 xcr 600 runs on 2 cylinders at idle?
Hey guys I just got my hands on a 1997 xcr 600 and installed some new Carb boots on it due to cracking on the factory ones and thought that was causing a vacuum leak. When I would cover the mag side Carb the motor would run the same as without my hand over it. I also pulled the spark plug wire without covering the Carb and still idled the same.it keeps backfiring through the exhaust at idle and will clear up at around 2000 rpm. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance! -jake


2002 wr426f vs 2005 wr450f
Okay so I have a 2002 wr426f and want to put a snowbike kit on it but all the fit kits for em are for 2005 wr450f’s and newer. I’m wondering how different could the bikes be and would the fit kit for a newer bike fit my 426. Thanks for any info in advance.
1996 xr600r
I have a 1996 xr600r I need some help with long story short I was riding it we road all day bike ran superb got back home and back would not start no matter what I tried everything... I'm puzzled it has good spark and I just recently rebuilt carb... any help is greatly appreciated thanks....   Sent from my SM-G950U using ThumperTalk mobile app    
Mitaka Clutch Basket Information!!
I have a 2001 CR 250 and plan on keeping the bike but I really am not a fan of the aluminum clutch basket. Does anyone have a insight on the best quality basket for the money? Should I just bite the bullet and go with OEM? I want to use my plates and springs and inner clutch. Thanks!

Meet the Experts