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Hammerhead Designs Brake Clevis
In the world of motorcycles, 50 bucks is something that can dissipate very quickly. One can blow that much on food & drinks at the races or the gas it takes to get to the track or trail. That said, in a world with $10,000 dirt bikes, is there anything that a measly $50.00 can be spent on that really improves the performance of your machine? One great option is the Hammerhead Designs Brake Clevis Kit. While it does add some satisfying bling to your bike, more importantly, it serves an important purpose of improving the feel of your rear brakes, improving braking accuracy and modulation. Installation The Hammerhead Designs Brake Clevis Kit for the YZ125 eliminates the need for the long and poorly functioning return spring that attaches to the backside of the brake pedal. This was good news because I managed to rip the stock spring off battling my way through the woods. The Hammerhead kit comes with a beautifully machined & richly anodized aluminum brake clevis, return spring, pin, & snap ring retainer. No instructions were included, but have no fear; this is a very easy, straightforward process. With a little deductive reasoning and a quick google search, I was able to install the kit in just a few minutes with typical hand tools. I had a small hiccup with installation that required me to slightly grind down the backside of my brake pedal to maintain clearance for the pedal to operate smoothly, I am not sure if this is the same with all OEM pedals, or if mine may have been tweaked slightly, but either way, it was an easy modification that took only a few minutes. Once installed and after a brief brake pedal height adjustment, I was ready to hit the trails to see how this bolt-on mod performed. How'd it work? The original rear brake set-up on my YZ125 left a lot to be desired. It had a very vague and light feel in the first half of the stroke which often led to premature or panicked slamming of the pedal in order to gain some sort of feel in the bottom half of the stroke.  My initial response after installation of the Hammerhead brake clevis was very positive. Pedal feel was greatly increased in the first portion of the stroke, as if the master cylinder had been upgraded with a larger piston. Pushing through the stroke maintained consistency and improved my braking effectiveness. Without any dramatic changes to my braking technique, the improved brake pedal feel & action gave me a confidence boost that allowed me to push a little harder into corners and slower sections  without the hesitation caused by lacklustre brake feel.  No more panicked slamming of the brake pedal in hard braking situations, just smooth and consistent pedal feel.  How's it held up? The Hammerhead Designs Brake Clevis Kit is extremely well made and that's good because I'm not easy on bikes! I have a history that includes more than a few broken parts. Despite this, the Hammerhead brake clevis shows no signs of wear or damage, pretty much looking like the day I installed it. I'll report back as the hours pile up, but my expectations is that this part will go the distance. Bottom-line - 4.5 out of 5 Overall, the Hammerhead Designs Brake Clevis Kit is a fantastic product. For the price, you can't go wrong! This is such a quick & easy way to improve your bike's rear brake feel & control, something that directly translates to increased control & speed. I can only image the improvements when paired with other brake upgrades such as an oversized brake rotor or upgraded master cylinder.
Posted by ThumperTalk on Feb 23, 2013

Sicass Racing KTM 690 Easy Fit Under Fender Kit
I love my 2017 KTM 690 Enduro, but like anything, it has a few flaws. For almost 11k, KTM couldn't include a sleek looking LED taillight that is vibration resistant and doesn't fill up with silt from water crossings? And, did the left rear turn signal have to sit in the path of hot exhaust gases? The folks at Sicass Racing seemed to have asked themselves the same questions and rather than whining about it like me, they offer a solution with their 2008-2017 KTM 690 Easy Fit Under Fender Kit. Sicass Racing essentially took an OE KTM dirt bike LED taillight & bracket assembly and added an LED license plate light to keep you legal, everything plugging into the factory wiring. I can't stomach cutting up factory wiring, so being plug & play rocks. Since the bracket is OE, it fits, well... like OE! The only mod that you need to make is to trim off some plastic ribbing under the fender to create some clearance for the license plate light. This was easily done with an razor knife in just a couple of minutes and is completely hidden when buttoned up. The license plate light works just fine, but the rear corners stick out a tad past the rear fender tip, so while it doesn't look quite OE, only the picky will likely notice. Sicass Racing also offers optional accessories to complete the taillight kit that include a license plate holder and an assortment of halogen and LED turn signals. I went for a pair of their amber/orange lens LED flat mounts, but they also offer clear and smoke lens options. The turn signals also have factory style plugs, so like the taillight, plug & play installation. When you drill the mounting holes for the turn signals, pay close attention to the ribbing on the underside of the taillight bracket. You need to leave a path to tighten the phillips head fasteners. On a recent ride, I had a buddy follow me while we talked via our bluetooth head-sets. He felt that running and brake lights were plenty visible, even in sunlight and that the turn signals were reasonably visible despite their narrow spacing, flat orientation, and small size. That's more than good enough for me. As those the ride on the street know, some drivers wouldn't see if you have you had 747 landing lights as turn signals. I didn't install in-line resistors or an LED compliant relay, so the blinkers do hyperflash. I'm of the opinion that this makes them more visible, so I'm leaving them as they are. In terms of durably, zero issues so far with the hardware, bracketry or the electrical components. And, I don't expect any having run an OE KTM LED taillight for a number of years on a previous 450 dual sport that saw plenty of abuse. The flat mount turn signals have stayed exactly where I put them, they are out of harm's way, whether it be exhaust gases, trail brush, or the occasional tip over, and the tail light doesn't fill up with silt from water crossings. Lasty, I think that the Sicass set-up looks a whole lot better than stock, but aesthetics is your call. I pointed out the kit to my riding buddy and he said that if I hadn't, he'd have likely not noticed, so it clearly looks like it belongs. Overall I'm pleased with the functionality, performance, and looks of the KTM 690 Easy Fit Under Fender Kit & accessories from Sicass Racing. http://sicassracing.com/store/products/tail_lights/sicass_easy_fit/2008-17_ktm_690_easy_fit_under_fender  
Posted by Bryan Bosch on Apr 12, 2018

Wiseco Racer Elite Piston Kit
Previously, I have used the Wiseco Racer Elite piston in my Kawasaki KX250F’s that exceeded my expectations and tremendous results. However, I have had the opportunity to make the brand switch from the 2017 Kawasaki KX250F to a 2018 Husqvarna FC250. I’ve had a good amount of time on the bike, riding it as showroom floor stock, 9 hours, and then installed the Racer Elite piston. Mainly, I tested the Racer Elite in the indoor environment, of professional Arenacross races, Amateur Supercross events and a pro Supercross track. In this process, I have obtained my Road to Supercross points in four events for my professional Supercross license with only a Racer Elite piston, race fuel, and an aftermarket muffler installed on the bike. Daytona Amateur RCSX, Photo by David Pilgrim - Pilgrim Pictures This was a great opportunity to get some thought provoking data on the Racer Elite piston’s impact on performance, these disciplines require a great range of power throughout the power curve and test the bikes ability and response due to the different obstacles and conditions. I showcased the Racer Elite in multiple events including Greensboro Arenacross, which featured bit of sand and dirt mixture that held a good amount of moisture, but was slick in berms and nasty ruts. This made the catapult and rhythm sections a challenge demanding immediate torque. Florence Arenacross was mainly red clay providing loads of traction however, the track broke down and got deep ruts which can rob a bike of its low-end power. The South of the Border training facility I rode both the Arenacross and Supercross tracks, both hard clay that was no nonsense and not very forgiving requiring bottom to mid end horsepower, not high rpm’s which would result in spinning. Greensboro Pro Arenacross, Photo by Martha Prentis - MEPMX In my previous experience with the Racer Elite piston, it created a strong increase in power throughout the power curve in the Kawi and made the bike leap out of the corners. The Husqvarna FC250 is a bit different compared to my last experience, as it has an impressive 5 more HP stock out of the crate, than a KX250F, and the meat of that power can be found in the high RPMs. Of course, once you got to that top end power, it never stops digging and gaining speed, but getting there is the bump that is needed from the Husky in my humble opinion. For tight and technical racing, it’s super important to have reliable bottom to mid-end power for multiple scenarios, but is especially important for whoops! The Racer Elite piston provided the Husky a lot of necessary power for any scenario that was thrown my way from my indoor endeavors. It was very easy to notice the increase in power, however, what was so amazing was exactly how the increase in power changed the overall performance and profile of the bike. It added a good deal of power on the lower end of the RPMs, which made it easier to climb quicker towards the high RPMs where the FC250 excels. In addition to a needed bottom end bump, it promoted the never ending full throttle climb on top that allowed me to really ring the bike out on an Arenacross straight without worrying about unnecessary shifting. This was also helpful coming out of a tight corner into a finish line catapult or a big triple into a rhythm section, because I was able to use the same gear coming out of the corner all the way up the jump without concern of coming up short. If you’ve ever frame-cased an Arenacross catapult, you understand why that is such a relevant concern! Greensboro Pro Arenacross, Photo by Martha Prentis - MEPMX As I mentioned, the Racer Elite provided a much needed bottom end bump in horsepower. Before I added the Racer Elite I was skimming the Arenacross whoops at the South of the Border in 3rd gear, with a little bit of struggle. I was then instructed to use 4th gear instead which would utilize a greater amount of power available in the gear and decrease engine breaking and front end drop. This worked nicely, but it was difficult to get consistent runs because I felt the need to enter in with more speed to compensate for the lower RPMs. For me, I do better in Arenacross whoops when I am able to focus on each whoop and adjust accordingly for each one. When I added the Racer Elite piston, I was able to keep a controllable approach, and gain speed further into the whoops because I was able to judge each one and keep a consistent amount of throttle and even started to increase the throttle towards the end and start to skip one whoop out. This not only helped with the whoops themselves, but made the following corner easier because I had better control going in, had less jerky or rushed movements within the corner, and was able to keep a good speed coming into the following rhythm section. In the type of racing where your lap times range from about 21 to 26 seconds, every tenth and even hundredth of a second is crucial. In the two pro Arenacross rounds that I raced in, there were two very particular instances that I can specifically say that the benefits of the Racer Elite piston made my success that much more attainable. They happened in separate rounds, but actually made the difference of making the main event in one of my classes. In Greensboro I had started around 5th in my AX Lites LCQ, and had to quickly make my way to second place to get my spot in the main event. For this race, the catapult had an exceptionally short run and the corner before got pretty deep and beat up. For the final two passes, the riders in front of me were having a hard time clearing the catapult, whereas I was able to get plenty of power to the ground and with the help of the Racer Elite piston, I was able to jump the catapult free and clear and get the drive necessary to propel the Husky up and over to set me up correctly for the next corner. It was the ability of my bike to get the power out of the corner and up over the catapult that got me within striking distance of those in front me going into the following turn. The second instance was in my AX heat race in Florence, where I was sitting two spots out of a transfer. I knew the two riders ahead of me were going to get together in a corner before a rhythm section. I had made sure I gave them some room, but I would have to cut down hard in the corner and triple into the section, which was no easy task even with a clean outside line. They had hit each other, and I was able to cut down hard on the corner, into a deep rut. Even with almost coming to a standstill, I sunk deep into the rut and gave it a handful of throttle that started at mid RPM’s and was able to triple into the rhythm section and pass both guys for the transfer spot. Compared to how the bike performed without the piston, I doubt that I would’ve cleared the jump in a pinch like that! Florence Pro Arenacross, Photo by Martha Prentis - MEPMX Overall, I was very impressed with Racer Elite piston in the FC250. Of course, with some high quality race fuel, the benefits of the Racer Elite are further enhanced. I truly believe there was a substantial difference made in my bike because of the piston, and it helped give me a boost of confidence in my machine to know that I was able to accomplish what I was demanding from the bikes performance. Aboard my FC250 with only a Wiseco Racer Elite piston, slip on muffler, and race fuel as my engine modifications, I was able to make both the AX and AX Lites main events at both the Florence and Greensboro Arenacross races and place top 5 in the Tampa Amateur Supercross round and winning the Atlanta Amateur Supercross in the 250 A class. These finishes produced the results and earned the points required in the Road to Supercross in order to obtain my professional Supercross license. The Racer Elite pistons performance was instrumental in the outcome of the end results!
Posted by Bryan Bosch on Apr 10, 2018

Gas Gas Enducross EC 300 2018
 It's great to see another excellent two stroke enduro in the market. While Gas Gas have made superb trials bikes forever, reviews of their earlier two stroke enduro models consistently said they were heavy, underpowered and had mediocre suspension. Financial troubles almost killed off the brand a few years ago but they are back with a revamped 2018 range which is lighter, more powerful and finally with great suspension, those brilliant Kayaba forks and rear shock from Japan. Like Beta, they have FMF exhausts standard. And all models come standard with a kick start, for guys who really miss this on other European brands.  There are three models, the Gas Gas 300EC base model with all the road gear. The Gas Gas 300XC is the cross country racer with slightly firmer suspension and an engine slightly retuned for competition. Then if bling is your thing there's the 300GP model with floating front disc, gripper seat, Rekluse clutch cover, anodized triple clamps, renthal bars, quick release front axle, the list goes on. So starting with the Gas Gas 300EC review what's it like? First the suspension is beautiful. Incredibly supple over small bumps, but soaked up the jumps and big hits with ease. It makes me wonder why European brands keep stuffing around with European suspension. The past two years Beta have dialed in the Sachs suspension very close to the standard set by Kayaba, I reckon all the Europeans could have saved a lot of messing around years ago by opting for Kayaba.... I never rode the older heavy Gas Gas models, but at a reported 105kg or 231lb they are getting close to the industry standard. It feels light, very stable at speed, and the flared side panels make it easy to grip the bike with your legs. If you sit a lot then you'll like the soft seat too. Power delivery is extremely linear with almost no powerband evident, at least with the stock power valve setting. At first I wondered if I was actually on a 250 because I was stalling the bike in technical terrain, and needing to keep the revs up on hill climbs. But as the speed picked up I found that gentle power was a pile of fun. I rarely ride my Beta RR300 at higher revs as it scares the shit out of me, but with the Gas Gas I was happily giving it handfuls of very predictable throttle. And the Gas Gas is no slouch, there's a reported 55hp on tap and it really sings along when you hit the gas... gas. Great to see a very light hydraulic clutch, matched with a slick gearbox and nice wide ratios. Then over to the Gas Gas 300XC review the cross country racer. There's meant to be more mid range power with a slightly different pipe, personally I couldn't really pick this out. The Kayaba suspension is firmer on the XC, still very plush but I think more aggressive riders would appreciate getting a bit more feel of the terrain back through the wheels with the XC. So where does the Gas Gas fit into the market? First it's very competitively priced at least here in Australia. It's around the same as Beta but given you get the kickstarter standard it's effectively $400 cheaper. If you are very finnicky about your suspension then the Kayaba forks and shock are a definite plus. There's a very good chance you'll save money by avoiding expensive suspension tuning. The gentle power characteristics would make it a near perfect bike for anyone getting into two strokes for the first time. And if you do like the playful revvy nature of 250s then this is a 300 you can ride like a 250 and not scare the bejesus out of yourself.  Personally I found the lack of grunt made it a bit harder in technical terrain or on tough slow climbs, but it just means needing to rev and slip the clutch more. The seat height is on par with other brands so short legged riders may find it's a stretch to reach the ground, the Beta would suit better in that respect. Having said that, all these European two stroke models are brilliant nowadays - top riders are winning enduros on Shercos, Betas, KTMs and Gas Gas two strokes. There are slight differences between the brands but I doubt you could go wrong with any of them. It's great to see Gas Gas offering another high quality alternative that is priced substantially below KTM, Sherco and Husqvarna. A big thanks to Mansfield Marine & Motorcycles for letting me abuse their Gas Gas models, and watch Euro Enduro's vid about common mods and known issues with the Gas Gas 300XC and 300EC review. 
Posted by OZ DRZ on Apr 05, 2018

Remember high school? I remember the sports and the general shenanigans that I got myself into on the daily basis. What I don't remember was in the text books that I was given. As a 17 year old dirt bike kid, I really didn’t have much interest in the fundamentals of data management, or the tragedy and betrayal contained in Shakespeare’s Hamlet; a shocker I know. But, what if my textbooks were full of juicy tidbits about the fundamentals in a dirt bike's engine? Had that been the case, maybe I would have focused a little more in class instead of doing peelers in the parking lot.  “The Two Stroke Dirt Bike Engine Building Handbook” by Paul Olesen states on its cover, “Precision Engine Building Knowledge For Beginners and Experts”, essentially an encyclopedia for the maintenance of a two stroke dirt bike engine. It contains almost 300 pages of intense knowledge on the subject, complete with full color photographs to accent the knowledge within, as well as insightful tips throughout. The book itself is text book sized with a soft cover. My favorite aspect the book is the high level of detail that went into its creation. It's so incredibly detailed that even the most veteran motorcycle mechanics can likely gain new tidbits of information from its pages. The book is laid out in an easy-to-follow chronological order, beginning with a diagnosis of issues regarding maintenance, on to a detailed list of tools used in the following processes, and a complete run down of the entire two stroke engine. I absolutely love all the photos in the book, as they help bring all the information together when working on my bike. At least for me, my retention is better when I can refer to a visual after reading technical subject matter. When referring back to a section, often times the photo was enough to jog my memory on what I previously read.  Each task is explained down to the very smallest step, leaving no question unanswered. I have years of experience working with two stroke engines, but I still found new information in the book. The simple tips and hints (such as a cardboard bolt holder/organizer) are items that will save you time and unnecessary stress in the garage. The book shows proper and improper techniques for tasks including bearing and seal installation and removal, circlip installation, and various other techniques that you will use constantly when working on a motorcycle. The book states in its introduction that it is meant to be complimented too a proper service manual, something that I agree wholeheartedly with. A service manual with give you the values and specifications you'll need, whereas this book will give you an insight into why the specifications are what they are and their purpose in the engine, as well as the mechanical techniques required to perform the task. About my only gripe about the book is its page thickness. I found myself turning two pages often vs. the single page that I wanted. But, then again, the paper quality is nice, so I will likely stand-up to repeated use. As far as I'm concerned, this book is a must have for any DIY two stroke mechanic. It will save you time and money, and if you're like me, the peace-of-mind and satisfaction of knowing that the job was done right. If you want a copy, you can find them at: https://www.diymotofix.com/the-two-stroke-dirt-bike-engine-building-handbook.html  
Posted by Bryan Bosch on Apr 05, 2018

Dirt Bikes

Okay guys and gals. Here we go with a thread for those riding toward senility---or maybe already there! I have some concerns about "slowing down", but will get into that later. Not in the mood for it tonight. Cj mentioned in the other thread about the bikes with much bigger engines than needed. I don't understand that either. Maybe it has to do with man's fascination with power. LOL--and if you put stickers all over your bike, it makes it even MORE powerful. Then put loud pipes on it and it becomes a REAL monster. Stupid thinking isn't it. Wait a minute--I just had a flashback. Okay, Let's change the subject. Who's next?
2 Stroke Pipe Dent Repair DIY (Cheap)
In searching for ways to repair some gnarly dents in my gnarly pipe I discovered that the blowout kits available all ship from outside the US and are rather costly. I couldn’t find a good tutorial or list of materials that would work online so I decided to make my own with great success and super cheap. I’m sure there are other methods but the materials I used should be readily available from any hardware store cost less than $20 and not require any welding or cutting of metal. WARNING DISCLAIMER - THIS METHOD INVOLVES THE USE OF HIGH PREASURE AND HEAT THAT CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY Here is a list of supplies: old tire tube (Or tire valve) 3” x 12” x 1/2” project wood (oak) Rubber air compressor “foot” U bolt 5/16” or 1/4” 4 x 5/16 or 1/4”x at least 5” eye bolts or J bolts 1.5” Rubber stopper   Start by cutting the tire valve out of the tube  and leave about a nickel sized worth of rubber on it. Thread one of the valve nuts all the way down and insert the valve into the hole in the rubber foot, tighten the other valve nut down enough to were the nut on the opposite size is sunk into the rubber and the rubber left on the valve makes contact with the rubber on the foot. You can then use some silicone around the edge of the seam where the rubber comes together. Cut two blocks of wood approx 3”x3” and drill two holes in one for the bolts to pass through and three holes in the other. The center hole in the second one will be for your tire valve. The center hole will likely have to be made about 1” diameter if you have a short tire valve (like I did).  Start by plugging the large end of your pipe with the 1.5” rubber cork. You may have to get a different size depending on the size of pipe. Use the J or Eye bolts to secure the wooded block over the cork. I used a tiny bit of grease on my cork to ensure a tight seal. Tighten down the block until secure, make sure there is plenty of tension holding the cork in place, you don’t want this blowing off at mach 12 becuase of a loose fit. Use the U bolt on the smaller end of the pipe and other 2 J or eye bolts to secure the valve end to the pipe making sure you tension it evenly and securely, I used grease to ensure a tight seal this end also. Once both ends are securely sealed give it some test pressure to see if it’s holding air. Once sealed start with about 20psi in the pipe and using a map gas torch heat dented area until red hot, if dent remains check psi again and add 10 more psi (30) and repeat heat cycle until dent is removed. I did this on a gnarly pipe which is very thick steel and it took about 50psi before the dents were removed, but most pipes won’t require this much. This worked wonders for me and cost less than $20 and only an hour of time.    
Pablo Quintanilla Wins Final Stage & Secures Podium Result at Merzouga Rally
Rockstar Energy Husqvarna Factory Racing Rally Star Earns Third Overalll at the 2018 Edition of the Event in Morocco April 20, 2018 – (Motor Sports Newswire) – Determined to wrap up his week-long adventure in Morocco on a high, Rockstar Energy Husqvarna Factory Racing’s Pablo Quintanilla has topped the fifth and final stage of the Merzouga Rally to secure a solid third overall in the event’s final overall standings. Continuing to make progress Andrew Short has claimed a spot inside the top 10 in the overall. Featuring a mass, motocross-styled start in the dunes of the Merzouga Desert, the fifth and final stage of the event saw Pablo Quintanilla put in a dominant performance. Posting the fastest time for the day, the Chilean rally star solidified his strong third position in the overall standings. Putting in his best individual stage performance Rockstar Energy Husqvarna Factory Racing’s Andrew Short crossed the line in eighth position. Wrapping up the Merzouga Rally 10th in the overall, the American is content with the progress he made during the week in Morocco. The Rockstar Energy Husqvarna Factory Racing Team will return to action at the third round of the 2018 FIM Cross-Country Rallies World Championship, the Atacama Rally in Chile on August 11/19. Pablo Quintanilla: “Today was a really fun stage. We had the motocross start and it was good to battle with the guys from start to finish. I got off to a good start but five or six kilometres into the stage I had a small crash that dropped me back a few positions. Then I had to push until the end and 10km before the finish I got the lead back and was the first to cross the finish line. It felt really nice to win a stage that way. Overall, I’m satisfied with my third position in the overall. This was a tough race with tricky navigation and to be on the podium is always good. We continue to gather experience and look ahead in the races to come.” Andrew Short: “I really enjoyed this week in Morocco. Especially this last day was really fun, bringing back memories from my days racing motocross. Before the flag dropped the nerves were there and I was maybe a bit late off the start. It was a good experience racing alongside the fastest guys in the dunes and being able to see their pace. The adrenaline kicked in and I had some really good fun. Overall, the week has been great for me. I enjoy the atmosphere in rally racing and I feel I am improving, getting closer to the top guys. I might still have a long way to go but I understand it needs to be done step-by-step. This week was a positive step in the right direction.” 2018 Merzouga Rally – Stage 5 Provisional Classification 1. Pablo Quintanilla (Husqvarna) 38:12  2. Kevin Benavides (Honda) 38:15 3. Toby Price (KTM) 38:18 4. Lorenzo Santolino (Sherco) 38:36 5. Joan Barreda (Honda) 38:38 6. Ignacio Cornejo (Honda) 38:54 … 8. Andrew Short (Husqvarna) 38:56 2018 Merzouga Rally – Final Overall Classification [Provisional] 1. Joan Barreda (Honda) 13:28:19 2. Kevin Benavides (Honda) 13:34:29 3. Pablo Quintanilla (Husqvarna) 13:39:44  4. Franco Caimi (Yamaha) 13:47:08 5. Ricky Brabec (Honda) 13:48:23 6. Toby Price (KTM) 13:49:23 … 10. Andrew Short (Husqvarna) 14:29:44     Husqvarna Motorcycles. Tradition on two wheels since 1903. Husqvarna Motorcycles are widely known and respected in the off-road world for a heritage of competition and numerous motocross and enduro world championships. Originally founded in Sweden in 1903, Husqvarna Motorcycles have been designed and manufactured in Mattighofen, Austria since 2013. Rockstar Energy Drink Rockstar Energy Drink is designed for those who lead active lifestyles – from Athletes to Rockstars. Available in over 20 flavors at convenience and grocery outlets in over 30 countries, Rockstar supports the Rockstar lifestyle across the globe through Action Sports, Motor Sports, and Live Music. For more information visit: www.RockstarEnergy.com Source: Husqvarna Motorcycles GmbH


Who has a 3 rail bike trailer?
I still need a trailer to haul my bike around and have been thinking about buying one of those trailers with the 3 rails. I've seen a few on craigslist in the $500-$600 range and was wondering if any of you have them and are happy with them, or would I be better off to just get a 5x8 trailer instead. The 5x8 would be more useful for other things too, but I'm kinda limited on space.
Post up pics of your rigs, RVs and toy haulers!
Trucks/Trailers/Toyhaulers I'll start Here's my truck 2001 Chevy 1500HD 6.0 V8 lets see yours
looking for opinion on 12 year olds middle finger fracture.
just looking for any opinion.  she is a cheerleader that wants to compete in 25 days   basically just was told at er its fractured, buddy taped and will need to heal for 4-6 weeks, no surgery?  


Suzuki Quadmaster 50 Questions
Hi All,   I was just given a red Suzuki "quadmaster" 50.  This is the 2 stroke oil injected quad with red plastics.  I have a couple of questions that I am hoping for some help with: 1. Any advice on where to find the VIN #?  I would like to figure out what year it is so that I can properly order parts. The only numbers I have located are on the engine at the base of the cylinder on the pull-start side. 2. What is everyone's actual experience with Chinese-made carbs and top end kits?  The reviews on Amazon and Ebay are either "total garbage" or "best thing ever". I don't know what to think. 3. This quad has a ton of hours on it, but it does run ok.  The carb seems pretty tired, and leaks fuel like crazy.  I have not torn into it yet to see what the float condition is.  I'd love to hear folks experience with carb rebuilds again vs. aftermarket replacement.  I am also not seeing a lot of piston's available.  RMATV does not seem to even list an OEM option from what I can tell.  Is there a best option for top end freshening? Thanks for any advice or help.  I'm trying to keep this "free" quad as cheap as possible while trying to get it to run well for my kids. 
SKF seal failure yz450 2010
So I do all my own suspension work, seal replacements and valving. After the original fork seals started leaking, I thought I would see what all the hype is and put a set of SKF seals in. I fitted the heavy duty seal kit to my yz450 2010. After about 5 hours of riding the right fork started leaking and then the left fork started leaking massively - fouled my front brake etc.   So I pulled the forks down and found that the dust seal had let go and pushed a piece of the dust seal up into both main seals! No very impressed!   Has anyone else seen this happen before?
1994 kodiak 400 no spark
Hi again, Ive done some reading online and have had no luck in finding a solution.   A friend has a 94 kodiak 400 4x4 and there is no spark.    Last time it ran he was trying to recharge a flat battery, ran it for an hour and then  shut it off and it hasnt started since. I put on a new coil and double checked it with a meter.  Coil is within spec (cant remember specific value) I also checked the red and white wires that come from the stator housing and go to CDI box (pickup coil I assume) and there was somewhere around 300 ohms resistance. I had a grizzly book and spec was 300-450 if I remember correctly. So I think I'm good there.  The only problem is that none of the wire colors in the grizzly book were the same as the Kodiak harness so it was a but of a crap shoot. I have double checked operation of the kill switch both at the switch and at the wire on the cdi unit harness connector. There are 2 wires that supply 12v to the cdi when the ignition is on. Dont remember what colors they are off hand   The stator assy was replaced last year by a shop and the rectifier is newer.   Before I throw a CDI box at this thing to the tune of $250 does anybody have any other suggestions?

Inside TT

App not working
Downloaded the latest version of the tt app for my device pixel 2 and it crashes Everytime I open the app gets past the tt logo then gets to the loading screen shuts down and says network error. I uninstalled it and tried again same thing for about a week now.
Marketplace/Classifieds on App
I know this is probably not the appropriate place and a mod can feel free to move it but I’ve downloaded the ThumperTalk app and it seems pretty limited compared to the site. Am I apping wrong or is that the case?   Does marketplace exist on the app?
Making Solutions Easier To Find
This post is for moderators/devs only.  I've been on TT for about a month now and  I love how active the community is. I'm involved in both asking for help, giving help, and general conversation. The reason I'm posting today is because of how active the community is.. there is a lot of content on TT, and when I'm looking for solutions, (outside of a personal forum post), it can get quite overwhelming.  I think to make this more efficient, a "best answer", or "solution" button is needed. Which the original poster can use to pin the comment that solved his issue. That way, when we're looking for help we can go straight to the 'best answer', and then afterwards spend hours going through all the many other pages filled with suggestions. It would just save time imo. I can think back to one of my own posts that has 4 or 5 pages.. and it turns out it was as simple as me having the floats upside down. If I could go back and pin the one guys comment recommending i check the floats - that could save someone else a bunch of reading time. Just a suggestion thanks

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