Featured Content

5 Key Steps to Training & Racing Well in Heat & Humidity (Pod Cast)
During this Podcast (#18), I outline How to Train and Race in Hot and Humid Conditions for Optimum Performance.  I walk you through 5 key steps to take prior to, during and following training and/or racing to ensure that you perform well in these difficult situations, along with how to correctly recover in the shortest amount of time.  During the first segment, I also outline how to identify and offset a heat stroke. During segment #2, I  address the Role of Carbohydrates, Protein and Fat as it Relates to Performance.  This includes how each of these plays a significant role in your energy levels, performance levels, and your ability to recover.  You might be surprised to learn what it takes to become both lean and strong! Finally, I answers listener’s questions about eating enough to off-set weight gain associated with stress; how to lose fat and not muscle; why eggs are important in a meal plan; and why do I train faster than I race? If you have any questions that you would like me and/or my staff to research and discuss, please don’t hesitate to drop me an email to: Contact@CoachRobb.com Regards, Coach Robb  
Posted by Coach Robb on Jul 09, 2018

How to Rebuild the Top End in your Two-Stroke
Rebuilding a top end is a task most two-stroke owners will run into at one point or another. Here, we go over critical steps and key tips to installing a new piston and ring(s) in your two-stroke. Periodically, if you own a two-stroke, there will come a point where you need to rebuild the top end of your engine. Hopefully, this won’t come as a surprise to you and will be part of your planned maintenance schedule versus experiencing an unplanned engine failure. While two-stroke engines are relatively simple mechanical devices, rebuilding them requires knowledge of how they work, attention to detail, and a systematic approach. We’re going to cover numerous tips pertinent to two-stroke top end rebuilds. These tips will be discussed chronologically and will encompass all phases of the build from pre-rebuild prep, to disassembly, through post build. The tips we’re going to share shouldn’t be considered inclusive of everything that has to be done, but are tips that focus on things that are either often overlooked or incredibly important. Let’s get started! Pre-Teardown Diagnosis  - Before tearing the engine apart, are there any signs that a specific problem exists? If so, are there any diagnostic tests such as compression or crankcase leak down that are worth performing? Before tearing your engine down, asses the specific problem with you're engine if you're rebuilding due to a running problem. Clean Machine - Take time to thoroughly clean the machine before opening up the engine, especially if you will be servicing the top end without removing the engine from the machine. Service Manual - Performing engine maintenance without an OEM factory service manual is not recommended. Make sure you have a manual for your machine prior to starting work. The manual is the only place you’ll find service limits, torque specs, and other key data. Disassembly Limit Contaminants - Once the cylinder has been removed wrap a clean, lint-free rag around the top of the crankcase. Dirt is one of the leading causes of engine wear, and limiting the opportunity for dirt to enter the crankcase is very important. Keep a lint-free rag at the top of the crankcase at all times while it is open and exposed to potential contaminants. Piston Removal - Easy piston circlip removal can be accomplished by using a pick and needle nose pliers. Insert the pick into the dimple in the piston and behind the circlip. Then use it as a lever and pry the circlip out partially. Once out partially, grab the circlip with needle nose pliers. During this process, be careful not to scratch or mar the wrist pin bore as this will make removing the wrist pin much more difficult. Use tools as needed to aid in circlip removal, but be careful not to mar the pin bore so the wrist pin can be easily removed. The ease of pin removal will be largely dependent on the engine design and condition of the bore. If the pin can be removed by hand, great, if not, light tapping while supporting the rod is permissible. Otherwise, a pin puller should be utilized which can be bought or made. In its simplest form, this can consist of an appropriately sized bolt, nut, and socket. Once the wrist pin has been removed, the piston can be removed from the rod. Hopefully, the wrist pin can be removed by hand once the circlip is out. If not, an appropriately sized socket with some light tapping from the opposite end can help break it loose. Power Valve Disassembly - Prior to taking the power valve system apart, spend some time reviewing the procedure in your service manual. For additional insight into how the components interact, review the exploded views in the service manual and look at part microfiches, which can be found online. Online microfiches can be very helpful to double-check reassembly of the power valve. They can be found on many motorcycle dealer websites. When removing the power valve system, consider laying the components out on a clean rag in an orientation that correlates to how they are installed in the engine. This is a relatively simple thing to do that will help you remember how they are installed later. When it comes to cleaning the components, clean them one at a time or in small batches so that they don’t get mixed up. Lay out all the parts of your power valve assembly as you disassemble it. This will help you keep everything organized, and make sure you get it back together correctly. Inspection Reed Valve - Don’t forget to check the condition of the reed valve petals, cage, and any stopper plates. Most service manuals will detail the acceptable clearance between the petal tips and cage as well as the stopper plate height. Ensure any rubber coatings on the reed cage are in good condition. Inspect all reed valves components thoroughly before reassembling the top end. Any parts showing signs of excessive wear or damage should be replaced. Intake Manifold - Check the intake manifold for cracks. Cracks are more common on older engines, and propagation all the way through the manifold can lead to air leaks. Exhaust Flange - Check the condition of the exhaust flange and ensure that it is not excessively worn. An excessively worn flange will make exhaust gas sealing difficult, hamper performance, and leak the infamous spooge.  Power Valve Components - Take a moment to review the condition of all the power valve components. Significant wear can occur over time and lead to performance losses. Rod Small End - Check the small end rod bore for surface defects such as pitting, scratches, and marring. Any severe defects in the bore will necessitate rod replacement. The rod small end is a critical point of inspection. Any damage to the inside surface could affect the small end bearing, leading to a chain of top end problems and potential failure. Sourcing New Components When freshening up the top end in your two-stroke, it’s important to reassemble with quality components. A deglazed and honed or bored and replated cylinder is a critical component to ensuring reliable performance from your new top end. Your local cylinder shop should be able to handle the bore and replate when necessary, and a simple deglazing can be accomplished with a Scotch-Brite pad. Be sure to retain the 45-degree honing mark angle. There are a lot of choices for new pistons from the aftermarket out there, but many people choose to stick to OEM. However, when ordering from the OEM, every individual part must be ordered separately, including the piston, ring, pin, clips, gaskets, etc. Dealing with all these part numbers and chancing forgetting a component can be a pain, and get expensive. ProX two-stroke pistons are manufactured by OEM suppliers, and come with the piston, pin, ring(s), and circlips all under one part number. ProX two-stroke pistons are manufactured by the same OEM-suppliers to exact OE specs. They are available in A, B, C, and D sizing for most applications. ProX pistons come with the piston, ring(s), pin, and clips all in one box. Complete top-end gasket kits can even be ordered under one part number. ProX pistons provide an OEM-replacement option with less hassle and less strain on your wallet. Find ProX pistons for your bike here. Even though ProX pistons are made by OE suppliers, the quality control difference is evident. On the left is a ProX piston for a Honda CR250, and on the right is a brand new piston out of the box from Honda. Which would you choose? Measurements The number of measurements that should be taken throughout the top end rebuild will be discretionary. At ProX, we strive for excellence and err on the side of caution when it comes to engine building, so our builds consist of numerous measurements and inspections prior to reassembly. For us, this ensures a high level of confidence and safeguards against external oversights. We recommend the same to anyone building an engine. Below is a list of measurements that we routinely make when rebuilding a two-stroke top end:  Piston ring end gaps  Piston-to-cylinder clearance  Rod small end diameter Out of these measurements, confirming or adjusting the ring end gaps is by far the most important, followed closely by ensuring the cylinder bore is within spec with respect to diameter, straightness, and roundness. Understandably, some measurements may be difficult for the average home builder to execute, usually due to not having the right equipment, however, a competent shop should be able to assist. Ring end gaps can be checked by installing the ring in the bore without the piston, and using a feeler gauge to find the measurement. Correct ring end gap is listed in the installation instructions that come with a new ProX piston. ProX rings often do not need to be filed as they are pre-gapped, but it's always a good idea to make sure your end gap is within the provided spec. Piston-to-cylinder is another measurement that should be checked before final assembly. For this, use a bore guage and a set of calipers to measure the bore size. Next, grab a set of micrometers and measure the piston. ProX pistons should be measured perpendicular to the wrist pin, a quarter of the way up the piston skirt from the bottom. Subtract your piston size measurement from your bore size, and you have your piston-to-cylinder clearance. ProX pistons come with a chart on the instruction sheet that shows the range your clearance should be in.    Measuring piston-to-cylinder clearance is a smart precaution to help ensure you won't run into any unexpected issues with your new top end. A final measurement we recommend taking is the rod small end diameter. This is important because sometimes these can get worn out and create free play for the small end bearing, resulting in damage to the bearing and most likely the entire top end. It can be done using the same method as the bore diameter. Compare your measurement to the acceptable range in your owner's manual. Making sure the diameter of the small end of the rod is within spec is often overlooked, but can prevent a serious top end failure. Prep Work Cylinder Cleaning - Once the cylinder has been deglazed or has come back from replating, it should be cleaned one final time. There is almost always leftover honing grit that will need to be removed. To effectively clean the cylinder, use warm soapy water and a bristle brush, followed by automatic transmission fluid or a similar cleaning solution and a brush or lint-free rag. To check the cleanliness of the cylinder, rub a cotton swab around the bore and look for contaminants. Clean the bore until no contaminants are visible on the cotton swab. Any honing grit that remains in the cylinder will facilitate premature wear of the piston rings. A clean, de-glazed, and properly honed cylinder is key to piston and ring function and longevity. Power Valve Function - Cylinders that have been exchanged or replated should have the power valve system reinstalled ahead of final installation. Often times, excess plating can inhibit power valve movement. To correct this, the excess plating must be carefully removed. On cylinders utilizing blade style power valves, the blade position with respect to the cylinder bore should be checked to ensure the blade does not protrude into the bore. Assemble the power valve before installing the new piston and reinstalling the cylinder. Be sure to check that the power valve is moving as it should, and not protruding into the bore. Piston - It is usually easiest to prepare the new piston as much as possible by installing one of the circlips and the ring pack ahead of joining it to the connecting rod. Unless your service manual dictates which circlip must be installed first, choose the easiest installation orientation. Typically, your dominant hand and preferred work orientation will dictate which side you choose to install the circlip on.   It's easier to install one clip and the piston ring(s) before fixing the new piston to the connecting rod. Reference your service manual to determine the correct orientation of the circlip. Usually, the open end of the circlip should be oriented to the 12 or 6 o’clock position. Temporarily install the wrist pin and use it as a backstop so that the circlip is forced to move into its groove. Installing the circlip should be done by hand to limit the chance of deformation. Orient the circlip to the desired position, then push the open ends of the circlip into position first. Be careful not to scratch or mar the wrist pin bore in the process! Once installed, use a pick or screwdriver to confirm the circlip is fully seated and does not rotate. Any circlips that can be rotated must be replaced because they have been compromised and deformed during installation. Make sure to note the orientation of each clip after installation. Some manuals may recommend specific positions depending on the piston, but always be sure the gap is not lined up with or near the dimple(s). Rings - The compression ring(s) will be directional, and the top of the ring is typically denoted by markings near the end gaps. Apply a thin coat of oil to the ring, then carefully work the ring into position, making sure to line up the ring end gaps with the locating pin in each ring groove. Install the ring(s) with the marking(s) facing up, and make sure the ring end gap is lined up with the locating pin in the ring groove. Installation Piston - On the top of the piston, an arrow will be imprinted, which typically denotes the exhaust side of the piston. Consult your service manual to confirm the proper orientation of the arrow and piston. Apply a light amount of assembly lube to the small end bearing and wrist pin bore on the piston, then install the bearing. Align the piston with the small end of the rod, and slide the wrist pin into place. Once again, use the wrist pin as a backstop, then install the remaining circlip into position. Use a pick or screwdriver to confirm it is fully seated and does not rotate.  Don't forget to apply some assembly lube to the ring and piston skirts before assembly! Cylinder to Piston - In most applications, a ring compressor is not required to compress the rings and install the piston into the cylinder. Lightly oil the cylinder bore with assembly lube or engine oil, then lube the piston skirt and ring faces. Prior to installing the piston and rings, confirm one final time that the piston ring ends are oriented correctly to their respective locating pins.   Once the new piston is installed on the connecting rod, apply some assembly lube to the cylinder wall, and carefully slide the cylinder over the piston. Squeeze the ring with your hand as you slide the cylinder on, simultaneously making sure the ring end gap remains aligned with the locating pin. Position the piston at or near TDC then carefully lower the cylinder bore down onto the piston. Use your fingers to compress the ring(s) and ensure the cylinder bore is square to the piston. Feel how easily the cylinder slides over the piston and rings. The installation of the cylinder should be smooth and offer little resistance. If resistance is felt, stop immediately and assess the ring pack. Occasionally one of the rings may come out of position in its groove and snag the cylinder bore. This typically happens as the ring transitions out of your fingers and into the cylinder bore.   Once the cylinder is safely over the ring, slide it all the way on keeping the piston at top dead center (TDC). Don't forget to torque your cylinder and head nuts to the specification listed in your manual. Post Build Torquing - Your cylinder and head nuts should always be torqued to the specifications outlined in your service manual. Double check all the nuts are set at their corresponding specs. Spark Plug - Don’t forget to install a new spark plug and if necessary gap it appropriately. Air Filter - Be sure to install a clean air filter prior to start up. Crankcase Leak Down Test - As one final precautionary measure perform a crankcase leak down test. A crankcase leak down test will help confirm all the seals, gaskets, and joints are sealing as they should. Break-In - When running your new top end for the first time, keep the engine slightly above idle, with slow and mild revs until the engine starts to get too hot to touch. Then, shut the engine off and let it cool until it is warm to the touch. Repeat this process, revving slightly higher and letting the engine get partially hotter each time. After 3 cycles like this, let the engine completely cool, then check all your fluids and re-check the torque on your cylinder and head bolts. Once that is squared away, you can begin break-in runs riding the bike. Make sure to keep the RPMs varied while riding for the first time, not letting the engine lug or sit at idle. A safe bet would be to ride the bike like this for 5 minutes, then 10 minutes, and finally 15 minutes, with adequate cooling in between. This will ensure your piston ring(s) are evenly and properly broken in. It’s never a bad idea to double check your fluids and torque one more time after complete cool down.
Posted by Rob@ProX on Jun 28, 2018

C'mon Dad!
Over the course of my time operating MotoMission Peru, I have had various opportunities to host/guide dirt bike adventures with other riders. I have a special place in my heart for father/son adventures. I guess it must have something to do with the sentiment I have with my dad.   Official MotoMission Tour Video...Check the others on our Youtube Channel   Dirtbikes and Dads go together When Tony and Joran contacted me about doing a tour, my excitement level rose. A father/son combo with limited dirt bike experience would be a challenge, but a welcome one. I normally cater to seasoned riders, but his one would put a different pressure on me as the guide. I needed to push these guys to their limits, while completing a route within our time frame of four days. The terrain needed to fit both the skill level and the distance we needed to cover each day. The fellas wanted to roll their tires over some amazing parts of Peru, get some mind blowing pics,  and live to tell about it. A face with a smile tells a story My work was cut out for me. I put Joran on a crf 230 because of his size and experience. Dad, Tony, was on the Husky 300, I rode a Honda 450x. I figured I could swap out with one of them if I needed. Bike selection worked out perfectly. The route itself was ideal. It was a mix of single track, some rough two track, and some free ride(go where ever you want) type of stuff. It was perfect to try a hand at hill climbs, scare oneself silly on rock fixtures, and put the tires on the edge of mountain ledges to make the heart flutter a bit. The ride was fantastic. Tony and Joran both expanded their riding level to new heights. In fact, I was able to coach the guys on various little riding tricks that someone showed me along my journey.  Stand up more, focus eyes on where you want to go,  as well as some mechanics of body positioning and how it relates to traction and control. It was a bit of a seminar/riding school/test day. No doubt that the guys are better riders now. I thoroughly enjoyed that part of the tour. The view they wanted to see!   When it all boils down, we had a fantastic four days of riding. Each were pushed to the limit various times each day. When the heads hit the pillows each night, it took no time for the sleep to begin.  Smiles were abundant, and there were no shortages of whoops, hollars, and high fives. Certainly another successful tour!   MotoMission Peru is a social enterprise operated by Scott Englund. If you want to see the Andes via dirtbike, this is how to do it. High quality in every aspect. Service, guide, routes, equipment, and overall experience cannot be beat. Contact Scott via Thumpertalk messaging or at scott@motomissionperu.com for more information.
Posted by scottiedawg on Jun 26, 2018

Acerbis X-Factor Handguards
Acerbis X-Factor Handguards Review Recently I decided to upgrade the factory all plastic wrap around handguards that came on my KTM 690 Enduro. They never seemed to stay tight inside the handlebars and having read about other all plastic guards breaking on harder hits, sometimes resulting in some pretty jagged edges, I wanted something with a full metal bar. I did a Google image search for my application and the Acerbis X-Factor handguards caught my eye, so I decided to give them a shot. The most stand-out feature of the Acerbis X-Factor handguards is its over-sized 35mm c-shaped extruded aluminum bar. Acerbis claims that this design offers greater rigidity over more traditional rectangular shaped aluminum. As the old saying goes, "Proof's in the pudding.", but they certainly look and feel beefy. Acerbis X-Factor handguards are designed to fit all 7/8" & 1 1/8" off-road motorcycle handlebars. They accomplish one of the best fits I've had, most notably at the tapered section of 1 1/8" handlebars by including inner mount spacers that are also tapered to match the handlebar profile. This virtually eliminates uneven mating between the clamping surface and handlebar when tightened down. The backside of spacers are also serrated, so they won't spin inside the inner mounts. Speaking off the inner mounts, they have an offset design that offers good clearance for cables, including the thicker bundle of hydraulic clutch & brake lines, stiffeners, and wires for thumb controls. Tapered aluminum inner mount spacers allow for an accurate, solid fit Acerbis also did a good job with the design of the mounting system at the ends of the handlebar. The heads of the toothed steel barrels have a rectangular profile machined into them that mates with a matching groove on the inside of the c-shaped bar, locking the two together when tightened.  The barrels have been increased in size from 17mm to 19mm and function much like a concrete anchor, where a tapered slug forces the toothed rectangular tangs of the barrel into the walls of the handlebar as its drawn in. Once fully tightened down, they feel rock solid. Over-sized, steel toothed barrels lock with c-shaped bar when tightened down KTM 690s have fairly long control levers. To get adequate clearance inside the c-shaped metal bar, I did have to move my controls inboard a bit. But, this is well within the range of flexibility of brake lines & cables and nothing that I noticed after riding a few miles. I also had to clearance the factory plastic throttle tube a couple mm so that it wouldn't bind with the inside of the c-shaped bar. This isn't all too uncommon when installing aftermarket handguards, with my angle grinder making short work of this step. That plastic shields are the largest Acerbis offers and the upper & lower moulded groves in the face can be trimmed out with a razor knife for venting. This wasn't something I cared too much about, so I left them as received. For those that care about aesthetics, the Acerbis name is colored all the way through the shield, so bouncing off brush, rocks, or the ground won't remove any lettering. The carbon fiber look sections aren't real CF, but it looks nice and is pretty convincing. So, how have they held up? First off, I'm a dual sport guy, I don't ride in hard enduro conditions, so I can't tell you how they'll stand up to cart wheels down rocky embankments. My rides include backroads, sandy doubletrack, and as much wooded singletrack that central Florida can offer up. We have a long growing season, so lots of Palmetto bushes, Sugar Pine, & Oak tree limbs and brush. Depending up the weather, there are tightly wooded detours around flooded sections of trail. For these conditions, Acerbis X-Factor handguards have been perfect. The oversized shields have done a great job of protecting my hands and levers from brush, even when smacked at higher speeds and the occasional glance off Sugar Pine trunks haven't cause them to move or loosen up a bit. I've not got down hard since installing them and while I have no plans to so for your benefit, I do expect the X-Factors to hold up to most hits very well. Pros  Intelligently designed mounting system provides an accurate, solid fit. C-shaped aluminum bar offers increased rigidity over more typical designs. Excellent materials quality & finish. Cons  None. Bottom-line  I'm super happy with my Acerbis X-Factor handguards. They look good, fit well, are rock solid, and have done a good job protecting my hands and levers. For my particular needs, this product checks all the boxes. Freshly installed Acerbis X-Factory handguards on a 2017 KTM 690 Enduro R
Posted by Bryan Bosch on Jun 26, 2018

5 Food Buzz Words That Make You Think You're Eating Healthy (but you're not!)
What looks like a healthy choice on the outside (and marketed accordingly) isn't always what it's wrapped up to be on the inside. Here's 5 food marketing buzz words that sound oh so good until you peel back the covers for a better look: Made with real fruit Reality: there are no regulations around this claim, according to Joy Dubost, PhD (spokesperson for the Academy of Nutrition & Dietetics).  She provides a simple example.  Consider Kellogg's Nutri-Grain Cereal Bars Mixed Berry.  Sounds like a relatively healthy snack.  But the "made-with-real-fruit" filling contains puree concentrate (made with sugar) of blueberries, strawberries, apples and raspberries. Solution: the lower a fruit is listed in the ingredient panel, the less the product contains.  If you want to reap the benefits (vitamins, minerals, anti-oxidants, water, electrolytes) of eating fruit, consume a piece of in season fruit every time you sit down to snack and/or have a meal.  Lightly Sweetened Reality: Unlike “sugar-free” and “no added sugars”, this claim isn’t regulated by the FDA.  It is easy to be fooled.  A simple example is Wheaties Fuel, a cereal that is marketed specifically to athletes and carries the lightly sweetened label; however, it contains more sugar per ¾ cup serving than the same amount of Froot Loops. Solution: again, read the nutritional panels.  Avoid products that have sugar within the first five ingredients (Note: also look for words ending in –ose (sucralose, fructose), these are all sugars and should be avoided because they are synthetic sugars).  Gluten Free Reality: To make this claim, a product must be made without wheat, barley or rye.  But there have been reports of cross-contamination with gluten-containing grains during growing or manufacturing says Pamela Cureton, RD at the Center for Celiac Research at the University of Maryland School of Medicine. Solution: look for a seal from the Gluten-Free Certification Organization, the Celiac Sprue Association or the National Foundation for Celiac Awareness which test products to ensure they have not gluten.  Added Fiber Reality: though products with this claim do actually pack additional fiber – often listed as polydextrose, inulin (derived from chicory root), or maltodextrin – it’s unknown whether consuming them has the same benefits, such as lowering cholesterol, as the fiber found naturally in whole foods.  Solution: it is okay to consume added fiber (often found in cereal, yogurt and energy bars), but too much can cause a derailing bellyache.  Strive to consume 14 grams per 1,000 calories as a general rule of thumb. Wild Rice Reality: “True wild rice comes from a plant that’s indigenous to certain lakes and rivers in the Midwest and Canada,” says Peter David, wildlife biologist at the Great Lakes Indian Fish and Wildlife Commission in Wisconsin.  “Most people eat the kind produced out of California, which may be treated with chemicals. Solution: look for the plant name Zizania palustris on the ingredient panel.  It packs four times the amount of protein, 73 times the potassium, and 12 times the fiber per serving as its impostor. Learning what to look for in your food for optimum health, wellness and ultimately performance…another piece to help you Work Smart, Not Hard! Yours in sport & health, -Coach Robb, Coaches and Staff CompleteRacingSolutions.com  
Posted by Coach Robb on Jun 26, 2018

Dirt Bikes

HEY
What are you thinking, right now???
Aug 2nd ypl ride with riddler
What’s it’s like when the riddler comes too town  
300 TPI or yz450fx
Backstory- Got a great deal on a 2016 yz450f that was already sprung and valved for my weight. I ride trails (North east PA) and some mx practice days at local tracks. I'm self employed so I'm trying to get away from the mx and more just trails. My trails vary from open coal road to tight technical singletrack and everything inbetween. Going to be selling the quad, yz, and consolidating to one trail bike. I'll openly admit that I'm a Yamaha fan boy, they are the only brand that have withstood my abuse. So right now I'm between a ktm/husq 300 tpi or a yz450fx. I'd get the yz250x in a heartbeat, but I want fuel injection and electric start.  I've owned and rode both 2t and 4t. I understand the differences. They are both awesome machines in their own regard. Just looking for input on them. As far as factors go, maintenance doesn't matter, I get parts at cost and have a full garage with tools, beer, and Alice in Chains on repeat. This bike will be my 'last nice thing' as I'm going to produce children soon, so cost doesn't matter. Which ever one I get will get a rekluse, flexx bars, all the skid plates, and some type of fancy pipe for bling bling.  I like the thought of a 300 2t, its lighter, sounds cool, smells cool, and generally will get more chicks. But I fell in love with the 450's. There is so much power, its intoxicating.  My apprehensions about the 450 are: heavy, maybe too powerful in some situations Apprehensions about the 300: KTM's are built great, but their bolts are all smaller and it just seems as if they won't handle the abuse like the Yammy will. And I'm afraid to buy something new that has less power.  Can anyone offer some input. Hopefully someone else had this same predicament and maybe rode both and can help guide me. 

General

truck has low compression on one cylinder, advice?
Hi all, had some misfiring on one cylinder and when I changed the plug and coil it didn't help so I took it in. The mechanic states that one cylinder compression is low . . . most likely due to a valve. He cleaned up 'best he could' and the problem went away for about a month. Only symptom I have is rough idle when cold. I still get good mpg.Not sure what to do at this point and was wondering what the TT community thought.   1)sell it or trade it in? 2)fix it or buy a new engine? (probably around $2k) 3)drive it as is? 4)try to fix it myself? 5)take it to someone else? 6)what are your thought/experience? Truck is a 4.0 v6 workhorse with approx 167k miles. It's a nissan frontier. '06   Thanks in advance, kinda been stressed about it!        
Single/Tandem axle
Looking at a 6/12 cargo trailer and stumbled on a 7/14 with a single axle which is very unusual. I will never have more than three db's in it so weight is not the issue. Is the length an issue(porpoising)? The extra size is not really needed. I realize the safety of tandem axles and will be making some long overnight yrips. The 7/14 has minor damage that reduced its price to about $600 lower than the 6/12. Thoughts?
Avalanche lift kit help needed. Last resort...
This is my last resort.  I have emailed, called, stopped into numerous parts stores, mechanics shops, suspension shops and online stores and cannot find the bushing for the bottom of this shock. It has a 6" lift on a 2003 1500 Avalanche. There are no identifying markers of the manufacturer of the lift kit itself. I have found shocks that are the correct length by they do not come with a bushing.  Does anyone know the manufacturer so I can contact them or an idea of where I can get a bushing? Todd

ATV/UTV

2010Yfz 450r
Have any of you guys had the chain damage your clutch rod holder on the left engine case? If so how did you repair it? I’m looking for a left case ATM
Honda Introduces Pioneer 1000 Limited Edition (LE) Models with I-4WD
First side-by-sides to come with Intelligent Brake Traction Control TORRANCE, CA - November 19, 2016 - (Motor Sports Newswire) - Honda today unveiled two new limited-edition versions of its popular flagship side-by-side, the Pioneer 1000-5 LE and Pioneer 1000 LE, both of which come with a new I-4WD system. Never before used in the powersports industry, this intelligent system is a direct result of Honda's automotive-engineering prowess, and offers three great benefits: brake traction control, hill-start assist and electronic brake force distribution. Combined with the Pioneer 1000's Torque Biasing Limited Slip differential, I-4WD can provide as much tractive force as a locking differential but with reduced steer effort and kickback. The result is excellent grip on a wide range of challenging surfaces, a more relaxed driving experience, and no need to stop and engage diff-lock.     Both Limited Edition versions of the Pioneer 1000 also come with a host of additional upgrades to improve suspension performance, protection, convenience and style, while non-LE models also get several important improvements.     "It's exciting to share the news that Honda is bringing I-4WD differential technology to the side-by-side market for the first time," said Lee Edmunds, Manager of Powersports Marketing Communications at American Honda. "To develop this intelligent system, Honda engineers collaborated with our automotive division and then tailored a system specifically for the rigors of the off-road environment. With I-4WD, the Pioneer 1000-5 LE and Pioneer 1000 LE set new industry standards, putting our flagship multipurpose side-by-side even further ahead of the competition in terms of performance and value."   Pioneer 1000-5 Limited Edition / Pioneer 1000 Limited Edition The Pioneer 1000 is already the industry's benchmark multipurpose side-by-side, with the best engine, drivetrain and chassis, plus the market's only automatic six-speed Dual Clutch Transmission (DCT) gearbox. Now Honda introduces two new iterations—the five-person Pioneer 1000-5 LE and three-person Pioneer 1000 LE—that are the first powersports vehicles to come with I-4WD, an intelligent differential system that conveniently combines the four-wheel-drive and diff-lock functions into a single selection mode. I-4WD incorporates the industry's first off-road brake traction control system to manage the amount of slip between left and right front wheels, applying torque to the wheel with greater grip. The result is excellent traction performance in tough off-road conditions, with reduced steer effort and kickback compared to standard diff-lock. In addition, LE models feature hill-start assist to brake while transitioning to the accelerator from a dead stop on an incline, and optimize brake force distribution between the front and rear brakes while coming to a stop—loaded or empty. While I-4WD is the standout feature on the two new LE models, the rest of the list is impressive as well. Adjustable FOX QS3 shocks provide an even smoother ride and improved handling; with a simple turn of a dial, customers can tune the machine for different terrains or driving styles. A beefy new bumper highlights and protects the grill, and aluminum A-arm guards and skid plate protect the vehicle against rocks and debris. Convenience-minded additions include illuminated dash switches for nighttime use; transmission-mode memory function to retain Automatic, Sport or Manual mode after engaging reverse; a pre-wired winch harness, new cabin-storage compartments and cup holders in all four doors. There are even comfort- and style-focused improvements like thicker seat foam, painted bodywork, red springs and A-arms and substantial aluminum wheels. Colors: Matte Gray Metallic Price: TBA Availability: February 2017 More info Pioneer 1000-5 Deluxe / Pioneer 1000-5 / Pioneer 1000 EPS / Pioneer 1000 Since its 2015 introduction, the Pioneer 1000 has established itself as the flagship in the Pioneer lineup, with a class-leading 999cc twin-cylinder engine and the industry's first fully automatic six-speed Dual Clutch Transmission. For the 2017 model year, all versions of the Pioneer 1000—including the five-person Pioneer 1000-5 Deluxe and Pioneer 1000-5, as well as the three-person Pioneer 1000 EPS and Pioneer 1000—have thicker seat foam for increased comfort, plus a winch-ready wiring harness. In addition, all Pioneer 1000 models get a new memory function that retains the last transmission mode after engaging reverse. All Pioneer 1000 models still boast fully independent rear suspension and long suspension travel, as well as 2,000-pound towing capacities. In addition, the five-person models once again feature the exclusive QuickFlip® system that lets owners switch between seating arrangements for three, four or five people. Topping it all off are Honda's legendary reputation for durability, quality and reliability. Colors Pioneer 1000-5 Deluxe: Red, Metallic Blue, Honda Phantom Camo Pioneer 1000-5: Red, Olive Pioneer 1000 EPS: Red, Shale Blue, Honda Phantom Camo Pioneer 1000: Red, Olive Price: TBA Availability: February 2017  
Broken axle shaft... how to remove?
I have a 2003 artic cat 500 4x4i auto that just broke a rear right axle shaft. I dont know exactlyhow to get it out thats why i am here. It broke inside of the diff and there is no possibilty of getting it out in my head. It broke off so clean but so hard to get to.

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Having to hit page reload to get page to load, otherwise a blank page
I've been noticing this alot in the past week.  Click on a forum or post and just a blank page loads, then if I click reload the page loads.  Its not just me, it happens on several different computers with different internet carriers.
Atten. Moderators
Where have the delete and edit buttons gone? Ride on Brewster
TT iissues
Anyone else having a lot of blank pages pop up when clicking on something you want to look at?

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