Motorfist Ranger Jacket & Pant
About every year or two I need to replace my riding pants and jackets. The Pac NW is really hard on gear and this time time around I wanted to try something new to me. I saw an ad on RMATV/MC for Motorfist Ranger gear, they looked really good, and were reasonably priced, so I reached out to see if they'd send me some to beat up for this review. Motorfist Ranger Jacket & Pant, ready for battle at Walker Valley OHV I'll start with a quick rundown on the pants. They're over-the-boot style made of 600 Denier Polyester on the inside and 900D out. There is stretchy material in the crotch, knees, and upper seat for freedom-of-movement. Out front the pants have two large zippered (YKK brand) vents, zippered hand pockets, and two large cargo pockets with folding flaps. One of my favorite features is the back zipper that pairs to the jacket; more about that later. At the ankles is elastic so that the pant holds snugly to your boots, something I liked immediately. On the inside is a mesh liner to aid with cooling, but most of my testing has been in sub-freezing temps. Last but not least, there are 3M reflective strips that definitely made me feel better when riding on the street in the dark. In terms of the jacket, its build materials and key features such as stretchy material (elbows & shoulders), mesh liner, & reflective strips all carry over from the matching pants. The jacket also has lots of storage options that include hand pockets, bicep pocket, a large lower back pocket, and four inside pockets, including one specifically for your phone. In terms of venting, the jacket offers two zippered front and rear exit vents. Finally, the jacket and pant can be "paired" together via a rear zipper and both pieces can be further upgraded with insert-able armor. Pairing Zipper Despite referring to the sizing chart from the Motorfist website, the first set of gear I received was too small. I exchanged it for one sized larger and everything fit perfectly, so keep that in mind when ordering. Getting everything adjusted for my first ride was easy, with all the zippers and snaps being thoughtfully located and worked without any tricks or frustration. Each time I rode in the Motorfist Ranger gear it was either snowing, pouring down rain, or in the 20's. Anything but ideal conditions to test venting, so they were zipped closed the whole time. I'm fortunate in that I can dual sport up to my local riding area (Walker Valley, WA). It's about a 15 minute ride with speeds ranging from 25-55 mph. Despite the crisp winter air, the pant and jacket kept me warm, even at highway speeds. The pant and jacket perform more like a wind breaker than an insulated garment, so I wore layers that included an undershirt, jersey, and chest protector. With the street section out of the way, I hit the trails. I enjoy riding technical single track and this was a great way to test the flexibility of the gear. Initially, I wore the gear without pairing the pants and jacket and the pants seemed to ride on the low side. This reduced my range a motion a bit. However, once I rode with the gear paired, the pants settled in where they should, and I didn't noticed any restricted movement. While the actual intention of pairing the two pieces isn't indicated, it worked well for me. Wind, rain, and mud were well resisted. A slight amount of mud worked its way through the seat of the pants, but the pants are not marketed as "waterproof", so not entirely unexpected. Some rain did eventually seep through the jacket as well, but I never became cold. So, this wasn't a big deal for me. Also, for you OTB pant haters out there, with the elastic ankles, not a single snag on my bike or trails hazards. About my only gripe is the jacket cell phone pocket. It's too small for larger smart phones, so I had to stuff it in the pant cargo pocket. However, I recently got a new phone that is about andinch shorter (5") and it fits the cell phone pocket just fine. Pros Nice looking w/o being overly flashy. Good quality construction. All-day comfort. Good freedom-of-movement (when paired). Ample storage. No-snag elastic ankles. Cons Pants ride too low when not paired w/ jacket. Phone pocket too small for some larger phones. Not waterproof. Russ's Bottom-line After all the woods riding with some highway transit sections, I found the Motorfist Ranger gear to pass the test of the Pacific Northwest. It withstood snow, mud, rain, bushes, and high-speeds. I was impressed with the overall function and durability of both pieces, not having noticed a single thread coming loose. They also clean up nearly new when machined washed and hung up to dry. My riding buddies said that I looked like I was ready for the Dakar; not a bad compliment for a full set of riding gear for under $400 bucks US.Posted by Bryan Bosch on Mar 16, 2018
Guide to Cylinder Prep for Your Top-End Rebuild
Freshening up the top end in your dirt bike or ATV is a critical part of preventative maintenance. However, it’s not as simple as purchasing a new piston kit and dropping it in. Properly preparing your cylinder is equally as important as installing a quality piston. Cylinder prep recommendations are always included with the piston when ordering from Wiseco. Depending on your application, it will either say “deglaze / hone” or “bore & hone” or “bore / replate.” We’ll take a look at exactly what these different terms mean and how to perform these steps. Deglaze your Cylinder A common question is “Do I need to deglaze my cylinder?” The answer is: yes, unless it’s time for a replate or resleeve. If you’re engine has any time on it, the glazing process has begun. The term ‘glazed’ in this context refers to the motion of the piston ring(s) flattening out and polishing the surface of the cylinder wall during normal operation. The more time on the engine, the more glazed the cylinder is going to be. However, depending on how much time is on your engine and what type of cylinder you have, you may need to replate or resleeve, which we’ll discuss next. Notice the shiny surface of the cylinder wall. This cylinder has become glazed over time. Plated vs. Sleeved Cylinders If your Powersports engine was made in the last 2 decades or so, chances are it is plated with a Nikasil (Nickel Silicone Carbide), chrome, or electrofusion plating. Nikasil has been the latest and most commonly used cylinder coating due to its wear resistance qualities, but they do still wear out. We recommend checking your manual for normal top end rebuild times, but generally if your engine has long hours, the overall condition of your cylinder will need to be closely reviewed. This will include not only the bore size and plating condition, but also the cylinder roundness and taper in reference to OEM service specifications. There are a number of good companies that offer replating services, just do your research and choose a trusted company. Your cylinder should come back with fresh plating, honed, and ready to go after a quick cleaning. This cylinder has been replated and prepped for the rebuild. The cylinder wall surface is no longer reflective and glazed-looking. Other forms of cylinders that aren’t plated commonly have iron or steel/alloy sleeves. If your cylinder does have a sleeve, you should be able to see the seam between the sleeve and the actual cylinder. If you’re still not sure, check to see if a magnet sticks to the cylinder wall. If it sticks, it’s a sleeve, and if it doesn’t, it’s plated. Much like replating a cylinder after normal top end rebuild time, your sleeved cylinder should have a new sleeve installed. The same cylinder shops that do replating should do resleeving as well, and it will come back honed and ready to go back together. In short, if your engine has enough time on it to need a full top end rebuild, we recommend replating or resleeving your cylinder. Technically you can have your previously plated cylinder sleeved, but we recommend sticking with how it came from the OEM. If it is just freshening up with low hours on the engine, you should be able to just deglaze / hone. What is Honing and Why do I Need It? When your engine was made brand new in the factory, the cylinder was honed. Honing is a process of conditioning the surface of the cylinder wall to help with lubrication of the piston ring(s) during operation. Honing creates fine cross hatch imperfections on the surface of the cylinder bore. You can think of these imperfections as peaks and valleys in the surface of the metal. These are essential because it helps the cylinder wall retain oil to assist with piston ring lubrication. Theoretically, the idea is for there to be a very thin layer of oil between the edge of the piston rings and cylinder wall. If there was no oil to lubricate the constant contact with the cylinder wall, there would be too much friction and both the rings and cylinder would wear out quickly. The term ‘deglazing’ simply refers to re-honing your cylinder to put those peaks and valleys back in your cylinder wall. This crosshatch pattern on the wall of the cylinder is the goal of the honing. How to Hone your Cylinder The most common tools you’ll find for honing small engine applications are rigid or brush hones and ball hones. Hones can be ordered by size according to your cylinder bore, just cross reference your bore size with the information from the company you order your hone from. The hone company should also have recommendations on grit and material type based on what type of rings you have. After disassembling your top end, inspect your cylinder wall and ports for damage. If you had a piston seizure or something break, chances are the cylinder was damaged. Depending on how extensive the damage is, sometimes cylinder shops can repair them. If you see any questionable damage or deep scuffs, we recommend sending your cylinder to a trusted shop for their best recommendation. If your cylinder is in normal condition with no damage, and you’re just changing rings between top ends, honing should be the only thing required. If the glazing is minimal and you can still see a fair amount of cross hatch marks, you should be able to get away with using a rigid or brush hone to just restore those cross hatch marks. You should only have to hone for about 10 – 15 seconds at a time until you can see consistent cross hatch marks. A soft hone brush like this is one of the tools that may be used to prepare the interior surface of the cylinder. The ball hone will be a little bit more abrasive, which is why we don’t recommend using a ball hone on plated cylinders unless they are specified to be safe. If you do need to use a ball hone for heavier glazing on your sleeved cylinder, attach it to your drill and lubricate it with a light coat of motor oil. Make sure the cylinder is secured and stationary, and the ball hone is spinning before entering the cylinder. Hone the cylinder back and forth for about 10 – 15 seconds, then switch to the opposite spinning direction and repeat. Check the cylinder for the desired cross hatch marks, and repeat if necessary. After honing is complete, be sure to clean the cylinder thoroughly until there is no residual material. When reassembling your top end, always be sure to double check your piston to wall clearance. Do I Need to Bore my Cylinder? If the instructions for your new piston say “bore & hone” or “bore / replate,” it’s because you ordered a piston that is larger than the stock bore size. Instructions to bore and hone your cylinder means your cylinder did not come plated from the OEM, and only requires to be machined out to the correct size for your piston. However, if it is a sleeved cylinder, consider having it resleeved depending on the time on the engine. Instructions to bore and replate your cylinder means your cylinder came plated from the OEM, so the only work required is to have the cylinder machined to the correct size for your piston, and then replated / honed. We recommend having your local trusted cylinder shop do your boring and replating work. In any case, we recommend having the cylinder bored by a professional machinist with the proper equipment. Cylinder shops that replate and resleeve usually have the capability to bore as well. Don’t Forget to Chamfer and Clean Up After any boring or honing work on a cylinder, it’s important to chamfer all ports and the bottom of the cylinder. Chamfering is smoothing out any sharp edge to leave a symmetrical sloping edge. Creating sloped edges on the bottom of the cylinder allows for easier piston and ring installation. You also want to make sure that the edges of the ports in the cylinder have a nice slope as well so the piston rings don’t get caught on any edges during engine operation. If your cylinder has an exhaust bridge, be sure it is relieved .002” - .004” to allow for expansion. Exhaust bridge relief is important in certain 2-stroke applications. Read more about exhaust bridge relief here. Lastly, be sure to properly clean any parts that have been worked on. Cylinders that have been bored and/or honed will have residual honing grit. This must be removed by washing with warm soapy water until an oil dampened cloth does not show any grit after wiping the surface of the cylinder wall. Once clean, apply a thin coat of oil on the cylinder wall before proceeding with your rebuild. Always be sure to cover all your bases when freshening up the top end in your machine. Giving the required attention to all areas will help you be sure you’re getting the smoothest performance and most reliability out of your engine.Posted by Kevin from Wiseco on Mar 01, 2018
BikeMaster 3/8" Digital Torque Wrench
As a professional mechanic by trade, I use torque wrenches daily. I have everything from a 4ft, 1" drive down to a 1/4" for finer applications. When I received the Bikemaster 3/8" Digital Torque Wrench, I was able to put it to work immediately. My overall impression is that it's a well-built, quality tool. I used it on everything from a trailer hitch install near its maximum torque setting, to a top-end rebuild at the very bottom setting. The wrench comes with a torque certification sheet and can be easily calibrated. I happen to have access to a torque calibration checker, so I was able to test the accuracy of the tool. From the very bottom of the torque range to its top, the Bikemaster Digital Torque Wrench was within .75% to 1.5% of the set point. In contrast, a much more expensive brand in my tool box is .1% to 1% throughout the range. But, is the difference really worth an extra $375.00? Likely only if you'll use the tool daily, or your 90s fluorescent riding boots will go another few rides before replacement. Pros The handle of the tool feels durable and your hand doesn’t slip, even when greasy. Seems to be pretty durable and it cleans up easily. The pricing is incredibly cheap! You can buy 4 of these for the price of just one Snap-on. AAA batteries are easy to replace. I haven’t had to replace them yet, but given my experience with other brands, they’ll probably last for at least a year or two. The manual says 110 hours. The sound to let you know you are at torque is loud enough to hear over the 1980’s metal that’s playing in the shop. Switching between units is easily done. You don’t have to back the torque setting all the way down before storage like a mechanical torque wrench. Saves the last torque value, and has 10 preset torque values that are easily stored. Two modes: one for preset torque values and one for trace that will show what torque is being applied real time. Cons The sound that emits when you reach torque is a bit slow, so you need to pull slow and consistent to insure you don’t go over the set point. Unlike traditional torque wrenches, there is no "click" felt when you hit the desired torque. The ratchet mechanism has semi-coarse teeth, so working in close quarters requires a reposition of the socket sometimes. It’s really not too bad. Bottom-line For the money, the Bikemaster Digital Torque Wrench is a good buy for most mechanics. It's basically 3 to 4X less expensive than some "professional grade" brands, and outside of it missing some features like a vibrating handle at torque, it virtually does the same job. Hard to go wrong here.Posted by Lincolnlock on Mar 02, 2018
Dropping into Ravines with Garrahan Off-Road Training
In episode 8 of my video off-road riding techniques training series, I want to cover the fundamentals of riding into ravines. Give it a watch to see how you're doing and if you have any questions or comments, hit me up in the comments section below. I'll do my best to get back to you. Thanks for watching! Oh, almost forgot... If you'd like to be notified of when I post new training videos, be sure to tap that "Follow" button. Brian Garrahan, Garrahan Off-Road TrainingPosted by Garrahan Off-Road Training on Mar 01, 2018
Ready! Camera! Action! Making Your Ride Video POP!
So many of us have one. We drag it around each ride. Some mount it to our helmets, some put it on a chest, and yet some use it with a tripod. The action camera has been a catalyst in the world of sports to bring all of its excitement to a screen near you. I remember back in college duct taping a big VHS camera around our bodies as we leapt off bridges. We loved to revisit the adventure later on. There is something captivating about sharing experiences with others. It's part of a visual storytelling phenomenon in which many have become addicted. I am one of them. Have you ever sat through a treacherous three minute ride video that your buddy put together? He was so stoked about it, but as you reached the 20 second mark you wanted to do something else? Was it all taken from the latest GoPro mounted on his helmet? The sound consisted of a wound out two stroke at blaring levels? Yeah, I've been there. In fact, that may have been one of my earlier videos. I ride dirtbikes in one of the coolest places on the planet. As I have been exploring the backcountry of Peru over the years, I have picked up some great ride shots via my handy little GoPro. Times have changed a bit with technology. Now, I capture 4k footage straight onto my phone, I can fly a drone above and beyond to bring even better footage back home to show the audience. The mount options are infinite as well as the gadgets for taking different shots. All of this technology has opened up a new passion for me. I have combined my longing to lay my tires on new tracks with the thrill of capturing the right shot. I also love to write and tell stories. Over the past decade, I have developed a pet peeve with bad videos. I certainly cannot claim to be top drawer when it comes to talent, but there are a few things that I have learned along the way that can help you put better videos together. I have included my latest ride video of a group of three guys and myself that hammered our way through some great riding in the Andes of Peru. It is more of a ride video and not much of a story video. My plan is to use it as an example. Whether you think it's good or bad is your opinion. My hope is that you can improve the viewability of your videos with just a couple of practical and simple to use techniques. Besides, you want people to enjoy your work. Keep the camera still Whenever possible, use a tripod, a rock, a prop up device to keep the camera from moving while taking the shot. This goes for those that are using basic stuff. If you don't have a gimbal (most riders don't carry one around in their tool pouch) use creativity to figure out a way to place your camera on a solid spot. Personally I almost always use a flexible, three legged tripod to mount my Samsung S7. I can place it anywhere, I keep it in my pocket on my riding pants, and can set it up before the guys come around the corner and into the shot. Take short clips If you have ever spent much time editing, you understand. Large files have to be processed by your computer even if you only want a three second clip of a 45 minute file. Another reason to keep them short is for entertainment purposes. Mainstream movies change camera views and angles each few seconds. Its so you don't get bored with the film. Same thing goes for your ride video. Mix it up where possible. Many Points of View As I mentioned above, changing camera angles will make your video easier to watch. If you watch a 5 minute video of the same helmet mounted GoPro footage, you might die. It's boring for most everybody that wasn't on the bike. Its OK to use helmet mounts, but change the scene. Stop and film your buddies zipping by as they bang through the rocks. Pan around and take in some pretty scenes. Follow along on that gnarly section of trail. Get in your buddy's face and ask him about how he crashed. Film a high five or fist bump. Mix those in with your video and you will make it much more enjoyable to watch. Length of Video Keep your edits between two and three minutes preferably, and under five minutes for best audience gain. Many of the professionals on social media talk about how important it is to keep things short. People have little windows of time that they can sneak in a Youtube video. If you have a 45 minute movie, they probably won't be able to check it out while on their coffee break. They also won't run over to Charlie and say, "Hey, check this one out!" In my experience, it's like pricing...Keep it under the minute markers...do a 2:59 second video instead of a 3:02 video. In general, the shorter the better. I try to keep ride videos to the three to four minute mark per day. Pack the best stuff in there and get rid of the rest. People will watch your videos much more often. In addition, there are limits on social media for file size and video quality. Last thing you want to do is make a cool video to find out the file is too big for your Facebook page. Keep Edits Simple You don't need to add a million crazy transitions or graphics. Unless it is done well, its more of a distraction. Transition from shot to shot with basic cuts. Is easier and works well with ride videos. The Rule of Thirds This is a time tested film and photo basic...Take your screen and divide it into thirds, up and down and side to side. Basically make a tic tac toe board on your screen. Place your subject in one of the corners of the middle square. If you have a full length subject that takes most of the height of the screen, place the subject on one of the up and down lines. It creates perspective and makes a better shot. Same goes with horizons and mountain backgrounds. Place them on one of the horizontal thirds to make your image more pleasing. Subject is not centered in the middle of the frame...but rather on one of the 1/3 lines. Sound If you don't record good sound with your video, don't put it in there. If you are making a sandwich and the bread is bad, it will make your whole sandwich bad, even if you have the best cheese and meat. Cover up with clear voice over or music. Smart phones usually have good sound recording for videos. Use the best you have available, and if you have little to work with, put in more music. Story You are trying to tell as story each time you make a video. Keep an eye out for things that stand out to make your story interesting. A wreck, funny things people say, beautiful scenery, obstacles and struggles, and anything else that stands out in your story. Highlight it with clips that you have taken and your video will be better for it. As for the video that I included in the post, look it over. I have put many of these principles into practice. It's not perfect, but imagine what it would be like to have only on point of view, or mumbled GoPro sound? Do yourself and your friends a favor and make those videos more entertaining to watch. Until the next time...keep the wheels down. Scottiedawg Scott Englund is a social entrepreneur living in Cusco Peru. Scott operates MotoMission Peru, which offers super exotic hard enduro tours through the Andes. You can check out MotoMission Peru by visiting the website at www.Motomissionperu.com or find them on Facebook or check out other ride videos and media on the MotoMission Peru Dirtbike Adventures YouTube Channel. Feel free to contact Scott right here through TT if you have any questions about MotoMission Peru.Posted by scottiedawg on Feb 27, 2018
SENIOR DIRT RIDERS BLAB!
Okay guys and gals. Here we go with a thread for those riding toward senility---or maybe already there! I have some concerns about "slowing down", but will get into that later. Not in the mood for it tonight. Cj mentioned in the other thread about the bikes with much bigger engines than needed. I don't understand that either. Maybe it has to do with man's fascination with power. LOL--and if you put stickers all over your bike, it makes it even MORE powerful. Then put loud pipes on it and it becomes a REAL monster. Stupid thinking isn't it. Wait a minute--I just had a flashback. Okay, Let's change the subject. Who's next?
Should I buy this bike?
Hey everyone should I buy this bike? $350 haven’t negotiated yet, not running kd80. I want to flip it or even keep it so the condition is not a problem. Is it easy to find parts? And is that a good price before negotiation. What do you think it’s worth. If not do you guys know of anything I should buy in Victoria area that’s 2 stroke.
Can someone point Me to somewhere that explains the PDS system properly? Like what each piston does, and the needle etc. I got a '06 250SX which has this on the rear, just want to know what I'm doing before I get involved with it. Homework if you will. Won't be immediate, I haven't even ridden the thing yet, but from what I can find it sounds like it will be inevitable that I tear it apart and try to get it working better. Any tips or tricks will be appreciated too. I'm already aware I will need stiffer a stiffer (progressive ?) spring. Thanks. btw, a search doesn't bring up much really useful stuff.
Arm Pump Solutions
Hi guys, looking for some advice here. Been suffering with arm pump ever since I started riding (~20 years). Sometimes it's worse that other times but always there. Seems to take about an hour to 1.5 hrs before I'm loose enough to hang onto the bike and ride at the pace I want. It's predominantly in my right arm (running rekluse so don't touch the clutch much). I've tried a lot of things (therapy, strength training, various stretching techniques, etc...) all with limited success. Recently I've been introduced to two different products and I'm wondering if anyone here has any experience with either of them. 1. 4 Arm Strong ($130) https://www.4arm-strong.com/ This seems to get quite a few high profile endorsements and has been used by several pro riders with great reviews. 2. Rolflex ($60) https://www.amazon.com/RolflexTM-Foam-Roller-Re-imagined-Myofascial/dp/B01IFRD3HG#customerReviews Recently on the shop floor at Boeing there has been a huge push to reduce worksite injury and one of the outcomes of the study was to place this device at each of the workstations. In reading up on it it seems pretty versatile. Gets lots of good reviews from rock climbers that it reduces arm pump. Any (constructive) advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
Dirtbike Loaded Backwards in Pickup?
I recently downsized my truck. Now I'm in a 2017 Colorado Crew SB... which is a foot shorter and a bunch narrower than my old full size Dodge Ram 1500 Crew. 99% of the time, I'm alone in my truck, even when riding in a group, so that is no big deal. But when I want to take my daughter riding with me and need to load up her bike too, man that small bed is really small. I transferred the CCR Sport Bed Buddy from my Dodge to the Colorado, so I have something solid to anchor the bikes to in the front of the bed. My experience has been that bikes come loose when not standing straight up and wheels straight, so while I can make it work going in at angles etc with both bikes facing forward... I'm not confident they will stay put. If I was just going to the track and driving on paved roads, I'd probably be okay, but I'm a trail rider and the forest service roads I need to go on to get to a trailhead can be pretty long and rough. That's when I have experienced and seen bikes come loose. I thought about the strapless options (Risk Racking Lock N Load for example) as a last resort, and thought I was going to do that, but I checked where I'd have to access the bolts under the bed, and sure enough they will end up being where it is impossible or damned near impossible to get at. I have a Colodaro with the Mini Max Diesel... there is a ton of crap under there I'd have to take apart to get a clear shot at the underside of the bed and I still think it probably won't work... ... so I came up with this. See pics. My kid's YZ125 is in backwards with rear tire in the CCR Sport wheel chock and I have 2 straps from frame and another 2 straps from h-bars pulling everything forward and keeping wheel straight too. Seems solid but I've only driven around the neighborhood. My YZ250X is loaded as I normally do and haven't ever had a problem. Bad Idea?
57 Percent of Body Burned Will I Ever Be Able to Ride Again?
I've been in the hospital for two months. During those two months I was bed bound so I didn't move so I got really weak. After that they made me go to physical therapy for 2 and a half weeks. I was discharged two days ago. I'm a 21 year old male. I was burned 57 percent of my body with 3rd and 2nd degree burns on both my legs, my back, butt, and right arm. Mainly the back of the areas are burned but the front isn't as bad as the back. Anyways, I had to learn how to walk again and as I see my progress, I can't help but wonder will I ever be able to ride again? My strength is coming back slowly but I still feel stiff and very weak. Has anyone else on this board gone through this? I would hate to give up on riding due to this. No smart ass comments please and no rude answers. Thank you!
1990 honda fourtrax 300
i have a 1990 honda fourtrax 300 and after a rebuild it will not start. i have timed it right ,cleaned the carb ,has blue spark, and good compression. it has every thing it needs to start why want it start
TRX 250ex, any problem areas???
Hey guys, my parents just bought a brand new TRX 250ex for my sisters to share. Are there any problems areas with this particular quad or is it pretty much bulletproof??? My aunt bought one last year for my cousins and they've ridden it pretty hard for about 200 miles (and maintained it very little). They had the valves checked two weeks ago and they were all out of spec!!! Is this common for this model quad? Also the service manager at the dealer said that Honda airfilters require a specific to honda airfilter oil. Is there any truth to that or is it bull$h*t. Any and all feedback is appreciated!!
Is their a sport quad that doesn’t have header glow?
Used to have a 2014 yfz 450r and the header would burn my leg and would glow after 30 seconds. I sold it because it was unbearable to tolerate. Is their a quad I can comfortably ride in shorts and it won’t melt my leg?
What happened to the app? I broke my phone the other day, have a temporary phone and can't find TT 8b the Google app store.
Click through add
Quick question, is there a way to stop the constant "Can we send you notifications about our site?" "Heck Ya" "Maybe Later" dialogue box that keeps popping up anytime I log on?
Issue with search feature
Doesnt matter what i search it always says “no results”. Everytime. So then people get mad over me making more posts about things that exist but using search feature is useless.