What's up Everyone? I am back to continue on the story of our awesome dirt bike club! In this blog entry I will talk about what it took to get recognized by our university as a Registered Student Organization (RSO). After deciding to start a dirt bike club at UNLV, I started to research what it took to become a club on campus. The four requirements for becoming an RSO included a total of five enrolled students, a full time staff advisor, completing an application to become an RSO, and attend an RSO mandatory meeting. At first, completing these four requirements proved to be tougher than it sounds. The first member I found happened to be a buddy of mine who I had previously ridden dirt bikes with before and was currently a UNLV student. I also added my girlfriend to the list and she helped out a bunch with the logistics of the club along the way. After including them, I needed two more students to start the club which was the main objective for creating the UNLV Rebel MX Club Facebook page. Once the Facebook page was created, I began to put up flyers around campus to find students who were interested in the dirt bike club and directed them to our Facebook page. The flyers and Facebook page generated three more students who are dirt bike enthusiasts and were interested in finding more students to ride with around campus. One requirement was complete, attending the meeting and filling out the application were easily completed after that. The last and final requirement included finding an advisor.... After talking to multiple professors, to no avail I could not find an advisor. I did some digging and realized the advisor did not have to be a professor, just a full time staff employee. We have a motorsport and power enthusiast who runs our machine shop and I figured he would be the perfect fit to be an advisor for our dirt bike club. He was very inclined to becoming our advisor. At last all of the requirements were complete!!! We finished up the tight ends and we were an official Registered Student Organization and we could finally get this club going. I'll continue more about our start and how we decided the objectives and purpose of our club in the next entry so don't go away! This is also my first time writing a blog so some feedback would be greatly appreciated. If there's anything that you would like to know about the club that I missed please let me know in the comments below.Posted by UNLV Rebel MX Club on Jul 20, 2017
Nothing Like Loretta's!
Hello ThumperTalk readers! It’s been a while, and a lot has happened! My absence hasn’t been a negative time, but rather a time of building and preparation for the success I had just a few days ago. As I said in my previous entry, things are always likely to change, and I’ll talk a little about that too. Let’s get to it! In the weeks leading up to the largest amateur national, Loretta Lynn’s, the preparation was nothing short of busy. Working three 12- hour days in the Florida heat, the other day spent either on the bike training with, Ricky Renner, in the gym or on a road bike. One thing I hadn’t thought about, I hadn’t been on an amateur national gate since November 2015, and I was competing in two of the most competitive classes at the ranch. However, a little bit of ignorance was bliss, and it allowed me to come in with a level of confidence to start the week and only get better. Loretta Lynn's Amateur National, College 18-24 Moto 2, Photo by MEPMX At the ranch, the usual ups and downs of competition is an understatement. However, I found myself able to walk away with my head held higher than ever, accomplishing many firsts and doing it was more awesome than I could’ve imagined! In the 250A class, if something could go wrong, it did. A nasty get-together with another racer over a jump – first moto, a fried clutch – second moto, and a flat tire in the fourth lap third moto, it would’ve been enough for some folks to give up and go home. On the opposite side of the spectrum, it seemed like everything went right in the College 18-24 class. It was in this class that I got my first ever podium moto finish, moto win, and overall podium at Loretta Lynn’s! 5-3-1 for 3rd overall! Loretta Lynn's Amateur National, 250A Moto 2, Photo by MEPMX This year was very different from the rest. With the guidance of Renner, and my long-time wrench, Amish Sam, we came into things with more strategy and well-thought out plans for success, rather than “just go for it” mentality. I am not an inside starter… but this week was different. The slight disadvantage of a 250 against 450s, I had to get a good start to set myself up for the rest of the moto, rather than trying to get a holeshot from the center of the starting line and putting myself in a spot to potentially get pinched off and shuffled to the back. We made a few bike changes throughout the week, different gearing, different piston, and new mapping (big thanks to Doug @ Kawasaki for helping me). More than anything, I was open-minded to achieve the success I wanted along with hard work and effort it ultimately created the scenario for success, and more confidence which allowed for greater accomplishments. Loretta Lynn's Amateur National, College 18-24 Moto 3, Photo by Ricky Renner I believe the most exciting thing that happened last week was the last moto of the week, College 18-24, when I had my first ever moto win at Loretta Lynn’s! Perhaps you have experienced the feeling when you are leading, thoughts of, “just stay up”, and there’s a good chance of caving under the pressure. I went from 6th to 2nd in about 3 turns, and from there I passed into the lead by the 3rd lap finishing 8 seconds ahead of second place. When I passed into the lead and started to pull away, there was no sense of “don’t go down”. Instead, I was feeling confident and pride in myself. It felt like it was another day doing 20-minute motos… just nailing the lines, clicking off laps, in control, and CALM. It was at that moment I realized, that this is what I have trained for, all the preparation, to be in first place, at the most prestigious race of the year. To feel calm and comfortable in the most coveted spot. How awesome to be at the highest level in amateur racing of the year, leading the race, and feeling like it’s another day at the office, the sense to just keep it flowing! Going forward with this new confidence, I believe is a great stepping stone for further accomplishments at other national events and even into professional racing. I just had to have the breakthrough and get the momentum going! Loretta Lynn's Amateur National, College 18-24 Moto 3 Win & Awards Ceremony, Photos by Ricky Renner As mentioned in my last blog, plans change. I will be staying amateur another year. This decision has been unanimous with those who support me. I have missed a full year’s worth of gate drops, training and practice, and want to give myself adequate time to fully re-integrate back into the top level of amateur racing/competition. When I go pro, I want adequate support behind me, and to have all the tools necessary to create waves, and go in with the speed to be competitive off the gate drop. I will continue to document my journey in the A class, Arenacross run, and further. Be sure to check in and click the follow button for future blogs! We are always keeping it interesting in the Meshey camp. I want to thank everyone who helps me along this journey. Wouldn’t be able to do what I do without all of you! Jimmy, Mike, and Eddie at Cycle Springs Powersports, Chris and the whole crew at Race Tech, Erik at Boyesen, ThumperTalk, Mike at FLY, Brad at EVS, Dien at Acerbis, Rich at EKS (X) Brand goggles, Rob at Dunlop, RoostMX Graphics, Simon at Mika Metals and DT1, MotoSeat, Kevin at Tamer Holeshot Hookup, Gregg at Lynk’s Racing, Dale at Bulletproof Threads, Andrew Campo, Ricky Renner for stealing my candy, Amish Sam, Momma Meshey, Keith, Amanda, Adam, and Lauren. Also, a huge thanks to everyone at USF Health, especially Dr. Tabatabian and Dr. Welsh for bringing me back to good health! Also, I look forward to my future with Wiseco, big thanks to Al and Kevin over there! Photo by Ricky RennerPosted by Scott Meshey 141 on Aug 13, 2017
Engine Break-in: Truth, Lies, and What You Really Need to Know.
The process of breaking in, or “running in” a new engine is a subject that has much more controversy surrounding it than it probably should. It is steeped in old rumor, myth, hard fact, and half-truths, with a healthy blending of real science and pure BS. Part of the reason for this jumble of fact and fiction is that the technology at the core of the internal combustion engine has evolved so much in just the past 70 years, and another part is that there is within the engine itself a kind of conflict of interest regarding the needs of various sub-assemblies as they are first put into service. One school of thought is that the engine needs to be treated gingerly for the first little bit of run time. Another camp insists that if it isn’t subjected to heavy loads very early on, it will sacrifice part of its performance potential. The fact is that, like a lot of things, there is some truth in most break in philosophies, and the empirical record is full of folks who followed any of several approaches and were successful, ending up with long engine life and extended performance in spite of the advice of the proponents of alternate methods. Why? Let’s examine the issue. What is “Break In” in the First Place? In any machine, when there are two freshly machined parts that move against each other, there is a basic problem of preventing them from damaging each other due to too much friction under too much force. Obviously, this is why the machine uses some form of lubrication at such points of contact. In fact, the fundamental goal of lubrication is actually to completely prevent the two surfaces having any direct contact whatsoever. There two basic states, or modes, of lubrication. These are “hydrodynamic”, wherein the moving parts glide over each other totally separated so that they “plane” on the oil like a skim board, and “boundary”, wherein the two parts have forced their way past the oil film and have come into actual physical contact. “Anti-wear” additives are added to the oil to prevent damage during boundary conditions. More in this in a minute. Next, there is the fact that even the most perfectly machined surface is never perfectly smooth. When looked at under a microscope, “asperities”, which are craggy looking high and low spots resembling a mountainous landscape, can be seen. If two such surfaces are moved across one another, the high spots of one dip into the low spots of the other, creating friction. This naturally has a tendency for the two parts to knock the high spots off of each other in the process known as wear. The unwelcome byproduct of this process is the debris that results from knocking down all those high spots, which is the major reason break in oil needs to be changed sooner than normal. With that in mind, the basic goal of running in an engine is to minimize this wear process while promoting a kind of polish between the two moving surfaces, which then reduces the operating friction, makes hydrodynamic lubrication easier to achieve, and extends the useful service life of the assembly. Make sense? Conflict of interests As mentioned earlier, different kinds of moving components operate differently, are subject to different kinds of stresses, and have different needs during break in because of that. “Plain bearing” surfaces like bushings, the bearing inserts on common automotive crankshafts, piston skirts, and the camshafts in typical motorcycle cylinder heads, need to be kept well apart from one another initially until they can develop that high degree of polished compatibility mentioned above. One means of helping this process along are “boundary lubricants”, the anti-wear compounds I spoke of. These are usually metallic compounds of zinc, phosphorus, molybdenum, sulfur, etc., whose purpose is to become embedded in the low asperities of the metal surfaces so as to prevent the neighboring high spots from digging into them. This takes place by running the oil parts together under moderate pressures with a film of oil containing these compounds for a period of time long enough to allow it to take place. Once accomplished, the surface is in effect, “flatter”, which supports the oil film better, improving hydrodynamic lubricity, and the two parts can bear on one another with very high pressures without significant wear taking place, even under “mixed film” conditions where the oil is beginning to fail to separate them. There are two major advantages in this process. First, it reduces the amount of actual wear required to produce a good polish, and that reduces the amount of debris generated during break in. The second is that these boundary lubricants can now permanently protect the moving components against damage at times when lubrication is marginal, such as during startup, or when the stays running while the bike lays on it side after a fall. Image Courtesy of DIY Moto Fix Another hazard is “adhesive wear”, which is the transfer of metal from one part to the other. This is seen as a “smearing” of metal from the bearing or piston skirt surface onto the shaft or bore surface it runs against, and from the standpoint of break in, is the result of too much pressure applied to the parts before an adequate amount of the boundary lube additives become embedded in the surface of the parts. It usually always involves the softer of the two metals being transferred to the harder. Ball and rolling element bearings don’t break in in this way because their components don’t slide over each other as plain surfaces do, but they still depend on hydrodynamic separation, and on the embedding of anti-wear compounds into their contact surfaces. They take considerably less time to receive a viable level of boundary protection, though, and can survive nicely on remarkably little hydrodynamic lubrication after a very short run in period. Then there are the piston rings. This is a major conflict area, since they do need to be protected from excessive localized wear and adhesive damage, but at the same time, their primary job is to form an effective seal against the walls of the cylinder bore. Therefore, they have to have a particular balance of anti-wear protection together with enough actual wear to produce a nearly complete match to the shape of the bore in which they run. So, with that understood, what exactly is the answer to the question of how to properly break in a new or freshly built engine? Old realities In the world of engines that was, it was normally the accepted practice to run the engine for a significant distance at not much more than half its potential output. This was true for a number of reasons, one of which was lubrication technology. Highly effective anti-wear compounds such as those currently available didn’t exist in the early fifties and prior, so the process of polishing off the asperities without wreaking havoc on the bearing surfaces had to be approached somewhat more cautiously, and given enough time to take place without the benefit of the filling in process modern phosphorus and moly compounds provide. Now that those additives are available, and generally included in premium motor oils, break-in periods spanning thousands of miles or scores of hours are no longer needed. Add to that the fact that modern metallurgy and manufacturing methods are now capable of producing much more accurately machined parts that fit together almost perfectly out of the box, and there is much less wearing in necessary in the first place. Twenty years ago, the idea that there would be one size cylinder and one size piston made for an engine, and they would always fit together with the specified clearance range would be considered impossible. Now it’s standard operating procedure for several models including high performance engines. Old myths One of the persistent myths surround the break in process is that synthetic oils can’t be used during the period. This may have been true 50 years ago, but not any more, and perhaps not even back then. The myth is centered on the notion that synthetic oil lubricates so much better than conventional oil that none of the wear required to polish and match things up will take place quickly enough, and that in particular, the piston rings will not wear into a good match to the bore fast enough. If the rings take too long to seal, the story goes, they will build up a glaze from the combustion gasses blowing past the incomplete seal. One part of this is true; if the rings don’t seat fast enough, they can actually develop a coating of partially burned fuel byproducts, and that will prevent them from ever being close to 100% effective in sealing the force of combustion up in the combustion chamber where it belongs. However, really significant advances in piston ring technology have all but eliminated this problem. More on that in a bit. The two parts that aren’t true are one, that synthetic oil lubes better, and two, that too much lube during break in is a bad thing. Synthetic oil is almost always the same basic chemical compound that conventional oil is at its base. The difference is just that instead of being dug out of the ground and having a bunch of undesirable stuff removed from it in the refining process, it’s created from scratch in a lab, with none of the bad stuff included. And in fact, while Group IV and Group V synthetics are completely lab created, the so-called “synthetic” Group III oils are conventional oils that have undergone a higher level of refinement than other conventionals, and are allowed to use that term. So there really isn’t a difference in them in terms of their ability to keep two metal parts separate from each other, only in their durability under severe conditions. Frankly, the only sensible reason not to use them during break in is that they tend to be more expensive, and break in oil should be changed after a much shorter interval because the break in process normally produces a lot more debris than will be present after the process is completed. Even if it were true that they lubed better, that would actually argue in favor of their use. Remember that the wear surfaces of new parts are rougher than we want them to end up being, which creates undesirable friction and more wear than we’re looking for. Good lubrication is more critical during break in than at any other time, so the use of a high quality lubricant is extremely important. And whether it’s synthetic or not, the use of an oil containing a lot of anti-wear additives is critical during break in because of how important the embedding of the new parts with those additives is to the entire process. What about the rings? Ah, yes, the piston rings. Back in the medieval times of the 1950’s, piston rings were almost universally made from simple cast iron. The process of machining both the rings and the cylinder bores was much less accurate than is currently standard, and they required a fairly significant amount of time to wear in to a good fit with the bore. Newly machined bores at the time were considered passably round if their radius varied by less than .0015”, while modern standards are about half that. Rings could not always be expected to be perfectly round once compressed to the bore diameter, either, which produced uneven pressures around their circumference, and uneven sealing to go with it. This was actually made worse by the introduction of chrome faced compression rings, which were brought into common use as a means of extending the wear life of the rings so they didn’t require the undesirably frequent replacement that iron rings did. However, the greater resistance to wear also extended the break in period, the time between installation and the development of a complete seal. Because of that, chrome rings were actually very much subject to becoming glazed over by combustion byproducts, and that was indeed a real problem. Image Courtesy of DIY Moto Fix The modern solution was to machine a shallow hollow face into the top ring and fill it with a hard compound of molybdenum. This served two functions; it reduced ring friction, and provided a small amount of sacrificial wear to the ring face that both sped up the “seating” process of the ring, and also protected the bore from wear by depositing the moly compound onto the bore walls, filling in the asperities there with what amounts to an anti-wear coating. Another benefit of this is found in the fact that since the top, moly-filled ring seats and seals so much faster, almost immediately, in fact, that it protects the second compression ring under it from as much exposure to combustion gasses as it would otherwise get well enough to allow the use of a long-wearing chrome ring without the associated problems of glazing while wearing in. Combine all that with current machining practices that produce rings and bores that come off the machine almost perfectly round and in matching sizes, and there’s not very much wear even necessary to seat them. Balance So with all of that having been said, the ideal break in process for a new or completely rebuilt engine is a matter of achieving a kind of balance of causing wear where it’s desirable, and preventing it where it isn’t. Ball and roller bearings don’t need to be dealt with very cautiously, but plain bearings need some respect and gentle treatment. The rings need some force applied. One popular school of thought is that the engine should be warmed up fairly judiciously to at or near normal operating temperatures, and then placed under heavy loads of at least 85% of the engine’s potential output as soon as practical in order to seat the rings. This method will in fact usually produce a good ring seal that will last a long time, but it carries obvious hazards to any plain bearing surface, including, most importantly, the piston skirt. Another even more hazardous common practice is “dry building” the top end, wherein the piston and cylinder are not lubricated at all during assembly. The concept is supposed to encourage a more complete seal of the rings by encouraging them to wear quickly, before they have a chance to have any oil glaze onto their faces. On the one hand, this is just a little bit like kidding one’s self, because oil thrown off from the connecting rod bearing in a four stroke will hit the bore walls within 10 seconds of startup at most, in a four stroke, and in a two stroke, the incoming fuel/oil mix will contact the piston and bore below the ring grooves before it ever gets to the top end for the first time. One thing that is avoided by dry building is an excess of oil behind the rings in the ring grooves that may cook down into a sludgy deposit and interfere with their ability to float freely in the grooves as the piston moves around in the bore slightly, but that can be avoided simply by not slopping the rings up to an excess. So, then, how to proceed? The ideal method of breaking in a top end is “dead running” the engine for a short time. The rotating assemblies should be lubed with an appropriate, reasonably generous amount of the same oil that will be used in operation. In a four stroke, the camshafts should be left out of the assembly altogether for this phase when practical. The piston is lubed only at the wrist pin, and the bore and rings are left dry. Then engine is then rotated by any convenient means, including the electric starter, if so equipped, for between 150 to 300 revolutions. On smaller singles, one can put the bike in gear and rotate the rear wheel by hand, or walk the bike around in gear. This will almost completely seat a moly filled top ring and coat the bore in the ring sweep area without placing any undue stress on the piston skirt. A dry moly powder product made for this precise purpose, such as Total Seal’s Quick Seat dry film lube, is a good thing to use in this step. Dust the rings with a little and wipe some on the bore. After the dead run, remove the cylinder and place one or two drops of oil on each ring, rotate it in its groove to distribute it, and wipe away any oily excess from the ring lands of the piston (the area between and immediately above and below the rings). Wet your fingers with oil and wipe a film onto the bore walls, again wiping away any oil that is more than just a film, and reassemble the top end. In real life, the compression rings of a four-stroke are lubed only by gasoline. The assembly lube should be just enough to protect them during the first 30 seconds of their exposure to live fire. Complete the rest of the assembly, lubricating all rotating and moving parts like camshafts, lifters, etc. with engine oil. Moly “assembly paste” should only be used where specifically called for, and sparingly. When it comes time to start the engine up live, pay close attention to odd noises, leaks, loose things, and verify oil pressure and delivery to the extent possible. Give it at least 30 seconds to run up normal oil pressure and fill the passages of the lube system. If you don’t have a good sized fan to blow over the radiators, it’s wise to hop on and ride it around fast enough to keep it from heating up too quickly. Shut it off and let it cool a little while you double check things mechanically. This lets it “soak “ in its own heat a little, and evens out the internal temperatures. Then it’s time for phase two. While it’s still warm, start it up and ride at a level at least 25% of its capability, but not more than 60% for around 5 minutes, then increase that to from 35% to 75% for another 10 minutes. Here, you can take another brief break to recheck your work, then take it out and run it fairly hard, with cycles of acceleration and deceleration at about 90% of it’s full potential for around 10 minutes. At this point, shut it down, change the oil and service the filter, and call the process done. Break in is over. Go out and ride. Engines off the showroom floor If you’re dealing with a brand new bike off the showroom floor instead of an engine you just went through, there’s even less to worry about. That’s because the factories usually do the dead run on the cylinders during the assembly. Methods vary from one brand to another depending on how automated the process is, but almost all of them do it one way or another. Then when the machine reaches the end of the line, it gets started and checked over for any problems. The factory approach to addressing issues that turn up at this point also varies, but any bike that makes it to the dealer has been run long enough to skip the initial steps above and go right to the second phase; run it for about the first 10-15 minutes at up to about 60-75% of its capacity, then step it up for another 10 to 15. You want to avoid thrashing it right at first, but don’t “baby it” during the process, either. Shut it down, look it over, and if all looks well, call it done and have at it. The truth is that the break in period has been reduced to a less than one hour experience by improvements in metallurgy and machining methods, improved engine oils, and proper assembly practices. The main keys to success are to put it together right, avoid either being too hard or too easy on it at first, use a good oil during the period, and do a complete oil change early. ********* About the author Richard Ribley, (aka grayracer513) was a professional motorcycle mechanic and fabricator for 9 years, then moving on to automotive dealerships, where he specialized in engine, transmission, and powertrain overhaul and repair for over over 27 years. He is an ASE and Chevrolet Master Technician certified. During the last 15 years he has maintained his own fleet of motorcycles and built engines and suspensions as a sideline for friends and associates.Posted by grayracer513 on Aug 03, 2017
Phone apps that enhance your riding experience
Many motorcyclists gravitate towards newer technologies, especially in the realm of engines and suspensions and more recently in terms of applications and technologies that can further enhance the riding experience. When we first discussed this aspect of our sport with our older peers, many simply said "I don’t use any kind of new technology when I ride" and we did find that a majority of vet riders and racers could care less about their smart phones when on the track or trail…but even a quick look at their bikes shows that they can't escape the grasp of progress. But we also found many new (read younger) riders and racers who embrace these new applications and technologies...and are among the first adopters, providing valuable beta testing and feedback to the creators. As we looked at what was available, it was initially evident that the majority of motorcycle based apps look like ExciteBike and were game-based!! We didn't want that. We were looking for smart phone apps that had the potential to add some benefit to the riding experience, and were suited for off-road motorcycles (or at least ADV based) and we didn't find a lot but the ones we’ve noted here are applicable to most motorcyclists except competition (on track) based. Many are familiar with some of the larger, more popular motorcycle applications such as Rever or Waze, but what about the some of the lesser known apps that aren't geared specifically towards street bikes? We didn't find hundreds of apps there really, just a few that we thought our readers may want to know about. Obviously this is a smaller, newer market and not a lot of developers have hooked into it yet, but as more and more riders have access to technology platforms like smart phones, smart helmets and even smarter motorcycles, we expect the market and selections to expand greatly. The first app that we found that we liked was CRADAR. CRADAR stands for CRash Detection And Response and is an application that uses the accelerometer in your phone to detect a fall and sends a text message alert to a specified emergency contact, using the GPS to include a link to a map with your exact location! Obviously good for riding alone or when you get split up from a group. This feature is very important when riding alone and because it is automatic, the rider doesn't have to get involved with the process. We spoke with Jay O'Leary who developed CRADAR and asked him some basics about it: TT: What's the unique feature of CRADAR? CRADAR senses when you fall, waits 30-120 seconds (whatever you set it for), and if it doesn't see you move at least 8 feet, sends a text message to your emergency contacts telling them you might be hurt. This gives your contact a chance to call you to see if you're OK. In the text message is a link to Google Maps with your GPS coordinates. If they don't get an answer, they know exactly where you are, and have the GPS coordinates so other people can find you too. TT: Is it specific to motorcycles? CRADAR was developed for motorcyclists who might not always keep the rubber side down, but has been adapted for several other sports. Anyone who might go down hard, in a place where they might not be found quickly, can make good use of CRADAR. TT: What platforms does it run on? Android only TT: What does it cost? Free - no ads TT: Where can we get it? CRADAR can be downloaded here: Google Play Store Next up we looked at BEST BIKING ROADS. Best Biking Roads is a smart phone application that helps motorcyclists find different roads, trails, routes, etc. This information populates a database so other users can quickly access and contribute as they find new routes. We found out that this app has a LOT of user data and that makes it really good. Many motorcyclists before you will have been down the same roads and can share the experiences as well as add tip and tricks to help you get the most out of your journey, and the app has a large library of photos and video of motorcycling routes as well which you can contribute to. TT: What's the unique feature of this application? BBR is used primarily to look up roads and routes in new areas for trip planning or weekend motorcycle rides. There is a lot of usable data - there are currently over 9,500 motorcycle routes logged from a community of around 34,000 motorcyclists. TT: Is it specific to motorcycles? Yes, this project is only for motorcyclists, no one else need apply. TT: What platforms does it run on? iOS, Android and Internet Browser TT: What does it cost? It’s free, and a premium version is available for $3.99. Users are encouraged to make donations by becoming a 'sponsor' to help support the project and keep it growing. Users can also volunteer to help the project in many other ways. TT: Where can we get it? BBR can be downloaded here: App Store, Google Play and online at www.BestBikingRoads.com Then we talked to the folks at WOLFPACK (great name!). WolfPack is an application that is designed to be used as a group...or "pack" - hence the name - and addresses the key issues related to traveling in groups: staying together, planning experiences together, staying in sync, and communicating safely while out on the road, forest, trail system, desert, mountains, you name it. When hitting the road, it takes you and your "pack" on a shared navigation experience (everyone follows the same route). While riding, it offers you the ability to send each other preset (but configurable) messages with a couple taps of your finger. TT: What's the unique feature of this application? Most unique in WolfPack is our radar - on top of your map you see where the other riders in your group are in relation to you. TT: Is it specific to motorcycles? No - the technology works great for any group travel situation - motorcycle, bicycle, car, on foot, or even while skiing. TT: What platforms does it run on? WolfPack has apps for both Android and iOS. TT: What does it cost? The basic tier is free. Advanced features are part of WolfPack Premium, which is $1.99/mo. or $19.99/yr. Where can we get it? WolfPack can be downloaded here: Google Play and Apple App stores. Here are a few more apps that we liked but haven't tested extensively: EAT SLEEP RIDE ESR is a popular motorcycle application that enables you to explore, track and share your motorcycle rides and discover routes and riders nearby. ESR features CRASHLIGHT which automatically detects a crash and notify pre-set contacts with your location. ESR can analyze your speed and distance on every turn and you can potentially meet other riders using the application. Another cool feature is you can share your recorded ride, trimming the start and end points to maintain privacy as well as a “Live Tracking” feature to share your location with family and friends in real-time. RAIN ALARM This weather app alerts you when rain is approaching. The alerts are a reliable short-term forecast based on near real-time data and it has DIY alerts to every type of precipitation, whether rain, snow or hail. How many times have we all misjudged the weather and either got caught out in the rain or maybe cancelled a ride and it actually never rained? This app can really help there. FIRST AID This application is published by The American Red Cross and is pretty comprehensive; with simple step-by-step instructions guide you through everyday first aid scenarios, fully integrated with 9-1-1 so you can call EMS from the app at any time. One thing we really liked was the preloaded content, which means you have instant access to all safety information at anytime, even without reception or an Internet connection. In conclusion, technology is becoming more and more prevalent and you just can’t escape it. Whether you’re actively using it with an app like WolfPack or passively with a recording app like Best Biking Roads, it’s working its way into our sport. We’re still in somewhat the beginning stage when it comes to off-road motorcycling, but many are using what tools we have to make our riding better, and there is a lot more of this stuff coming, from active drones with AI to follow you and report back on your technique and training progress, to engine tuning tools that respond to voice commands in real time and so much more, the future is now. Q: What apps are you using that contribute to a better riding experience and what do you like most about it? Hit us up in the comments section below!Posted by MXEditor on Aug 02, 2017
New and Re-plated Cylinder Prep
Today I want to share some pointers on preparing new or re-plated cylinders that will help ensure your engines run stronger and last longer. Plus, I've got an update on the two-stroke book I've been working on that I'd like to share. Let's get started! A Universal Concern First, both new and re-plated cylinders must be cleaned prior to assembling. Normally the cylinders will arrive looking clean, but looks can be deceiving. I have no doubt that the factories and re-plating services clean the cylinders as part of their processes, but I highly recommend cleaning the bores a final time prior to use. Shown below is a new Yamaha cylinder that I extracted quite a bit of honing grit out of. If left in place, the honing grit will ensure that the piston rings will wear out faster than they need to, so be sure to take the time to properly clean new cylinders prior to assembly. What’s the best way to clean the cylinder bore? Start by using warm soapy water and a brush to clean the cylinder. Take your time and be thorough. After the majority of the honing grit has been removed switch to automatic transmission fluid and a lint free rag for one final cleaning. As a test to check cleanliness, rub a cotton swab against the cylinder bore. If the swab picks up any debris and changes color, your cleaning duties are not over. The swab should be able to be rubbed against the bore and remain perfectly clean. Two-Stroke Port Dressing For two-stroke owners, the second item I want to bring to your attention is port dressing. Port dressing is a term used to describe the process of deburring/breaking the edge at the intersection of the cylinder plating and the ports in the cylinder. During the plating process, plating usually builds up excessively at the edge of the port and must be removed after honing. Proper removal is critical to ensure acceptable piston ring life. Manufacturers and plating services will break the edge in different ways and to different magnitudes, which ends up being a whole other topic. The important thing is to ensure that any new or re-plated cylinder you use shows visible signs that the port edges have been dressed. A dressed port edge will be easy to spot because it will feature a different surface finish than the cross-hatch created from honing. This is easily visible in the image shown above. Many port dressing operations are done manually so some irregularity in the geometry will usually be present. If there is no visible edge break on the port edges, I would be highly suspicious and contact the service that plated the cylinder or sold the cylinder and confirm with them if a step was missed. Typically a chamfer or radius in the .020 - .040” (0.5 - 1mm) range is used. Two-Stroke Power Valves Lastly, it is possible that some of the power valve components, such as blades or drums, will not fit correctly on cylinders that have been replated. This is because the plating can occasionally build up in the slots or bores where the power valve parts reside. Prior to final assembly, be sure to check the function of the power valve blade and/or drums to ensure they move freely in their respective locations within the cylinder. If plating has built up in a power valve slot or bore, it will need to be carefully removed. To do this, appropriately sized burs for die grinders or Dremel tools can be used. If one is not careful, irreversible damage to the slot or bore can result. When performing this work proceed cautiously or leave it to a seasoned professional. Burs for the job can be difficult to track down in stores, but are readily available online from places like McMaster-Carr. When purchasing burs, be sure to pick up a few variants, such as rounded and square edged, designed for removing hard materials. The Two-Stroke Book From February to March we photographed the entire book. From April onward we have been formatting and proofreading. Needless to say, we are in the final stretch! If you want to stay updated on the moment the Two-Stroke Dirt Bike Engine Building Handbook is ready for pre-order, sign up at the link below. We can't wait to get this book out the door and into your garage. Sign Up for Updates on the Two-Stroke Book Thanks for reading and have a great rest of your week! -PaulPosted by Paul Olesen on Aug 03, 2017
Fresh Meat Needs to Ride!
Newly single, and am finding that everyone to hang out with is either married with kids - no free time, - or not interested in the same stuff. I really would like to get out for some throttle therapy with people who are single track types and can have a beer or two. Maybe even single! Ha. I work in Susanville CA, but live in Cedar City, UT. I'm gone a lot of the time, but if someone's already riding and I can tag along that's ideal. Arizona, NM, Utah, Nevada, and NorCal are all places I'm willing to travel. I'm self sufficient so I don't need a babysitter, just some bros/broettes to ride with. My skill level would probably rate as intermediate, though its been over a year since I got some good roost time in. I've never ridden tracks really, but I'd be interested in trying.
how to delet a post !?
I just put a post in wrong forum , and wondering how i can delet a post completely or move it to the right category !?
Dang, I was trying to not get hurt this year. I went out back to my playground, having a good time by myself. Hot but not to bad since the sun had gone down. I was up on top of my 3 foot high skidder tire, balancing, planning to drop the clutch and launch off, from balance. I had done it many times, although before, I just used throttle, But I dropped the clutch. Bike went straight up, landed straight up and I basically did the exact move as you would if you stood on a kitchen cabinet and did a cannon ball as you would in a pool to splash everybody. Flat on my butt, no forward movement. Impacted my spine is all I know to explain it. Anybody done this? What will it be like tomorrow? Will it go away overnight or wake up, oh no? Pain is not bad yet froze up from just above the belt line up 8 inches.
SXS's in Arrowhead/Pinnacles
I try and get away from the house at weekends as a result of the 'hood going downhill, it's ranchero music from morning till night. We got to pinnacles, it was great, just us, I thought we'd get some good riding in, not to many people out on the trails, we were there for 10 minutes, and this crowd shows up, blasting the music out, I thought I was back at home again. Out on the trail we had a couple of near head ons with SXS's. F'ing ridiculous. We didn't find a single trail that didn't have SXS tracks on them. Last time I go to that area at the weekend. F'em. This sport used to be fun, not sure I can say that anymore.
Michaux Dual Sport GPS??
I'm working on converting the roll route sheet to a proper GPS/GPX route for this Sunday's Michaux Dual Sport. Has anyone done this before? Some parts are kinda confusing. Also, if you are a C- or so rider and want to group/time with me, let me know.
Elkins FLat new trails; scraped, bent and busted ride report 8-19-17
we started out fine, looking to get some miles in, but the last half of the ride, it was like Slyko was out there putting the curse on us, Every thing came up scraped, bent and busted I bent my bars on a silly crash into some hard rock, crashed just right to put all the crash energy into the left hand guard and bar. BENT. Then Later Oldedude seized up his YZ250. Too many hours on the old top end he said. So I had to tow his POS Yamaha back to the trucks. We drank two beers and feeling better, I try loading my bike up by myself., miss the mark fall over and scrape the shit out of my shin. Blood and skin in my sock. Good news is the USFS has re-route some trails, added new single track. Never before new EF trails ridden by us , got good photos. But there also was too much rock on the old trails.... Had enough of EF for the summer. scraped, bent and busted
Is this normal? 700 raptor...
Just bought a 2013 raptor 700 quad. It makes a lot of noise from the left side like a chain rattling around and so much heat comes off the right side it's hard to ride long distances. You could never ride in short pants it gets so hot. It runs great (other than noise). Very fast. I put about 100 miles on last weekend and didn't have any other problems but it's hard to believe it should sound like that and get so hot.
Lost Title & Registration Honda 150R, how to register
I have a 2009 Honda 150R that is titled and registered in California. I lost both the title and registration (don't ask, still crying). All I have is a collections bill from California stating I did not pay my registration. How can I get this vehicle titled or registered in CO? I'm having a hard time understanding the restrictions. I will be sending in payment for the missed registration.
Stolen race quad
Hey all - A work buddy had his quad stolen in Pueblo West, Colorado. Has some motor mods. Not sure of year buy Yamaha YZ450F. Keep your eyes out please.
Big bore kit 50cc-80cc on moped
I have a new taotao racer 50 that I just put an 80cc big bore kit on. I out it all back together and I am having the weirdest problem. I was able to get it to start twice and ran great when it did but all the other times it will just barely start and will stay under 1,000 rpms and won't get going. I'm thinking maybe it's the jetting in the carb, unless exhuast valve gaping could be the problem. I set mine to .004 but maybe that's too big .
Powder coat my rims or spray can myself?
I want to paint my CBR250R rims black (probably gloss). I want to save money, I was wondering the probs and cons of doing it myself with spray cans, or should I spend the bit extra and get someone to powder coat for me? They have a few small spaces and cravaces, would it be easy enough to get into all those areas myself? Thanks
XR650L Tail Light Issue. All help is appreciated.
Hello, after many years I am back to riding again, kinda. I just bought an xr650l with most of the supermoto conversion done. All it needed was a horn, mirror, turn signals, and a tail light. Seemed simple enough and I got it at a "your a good friend" price. The horn went on with little problems, along with the mirrors. I learned what a relay switch looked like after buying L.E.D. turn signals, but other than that, we were kosher. I installed the rear tail light, as some other tutorials show, and there was no power. I looked up the wiring diagram, and after double checking I connected the right wires, still no power. Is there a relay I need for the tail light? Even if there were a relay needed, I assumed it would still light up as a driving light without it? Electrical components are not my cup of tea.
Hi octane mixture
Should i change my ratio if i use hi octane fuel i have a rm250 2004 and usually run 40-1 on normal fuel
How to get ahold of 2 moto
I have tried calling the number from the website no response is there another number or something im looking for a fot kit for my 2006 yz250 i currently have a 2003 yz450f kit what else would i need ? Thanks Sent from my SM-G920P using ThumperTalk mobile app
jetting info needed
Hey I'm running a kx500 with my home built snowkit and need to get some jetting specs. Its a 1998 kx500 will be riding around 7k and up guess the temps will be around 10 above on average. thanks for any help. Les
Hey guys i'm planning on buying a sn hull this weekend it has a pump and gas tank and all cables i really wanna build this ski to be fast but no be super expensive since i'm 15 i don't have a huge budget. I would like to throw a 701 in it with a pipe and possibly mill the head while i'm at work. if anyone has any ideas and advise for my budget build it would be much appreciated thanks!
I have a 1996 xr600r I need some help with long story short I was riding it we road all day bike ran superb got back home and back would not start no matter what I tried everything... I'm puzzled it has good spark and I just recently rebuilt carb... any help is greatly appreciated thanks.... Sent from my SM-G950U using ThumperTalk mobile app
Problem At The Beach
I'm having issues with my PWC at the beach. I have a 2015 Yamaha VXR. I decided to post my question here, instead of in the Yamaha thread, as it is probably an issue across the board. My question is how do you guys keep women off your PWCs? Do they make some sort of repellent?