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Know a little something about maintenance, fixing, tuning, or modifying MX, offroad, & dual sport motorcycles, ATV or UTV? Or, maybe you have mad skills riding or racing them? Whatever the case, if you have valuable knowledge & experiences that relates to motorcycles, ATVs, or UTVs, please help your fellow riders by sharing your best tips, tricks, and how to articles.

    DUBDUB
    It is always a pain in the butt to try and remember where the long & short bolts are installed, when I have pulled the side cases or any other items off my bike, especially after a couple of days (or weeks) between work sessions. Here are few ways you can keep track of where each bolt goes.
    Camera Phone
    First remove the bolts one by one. Then lay the bolts out around the item as they came out of the case/item. Get out the camera & take a photo of the item with all the bolts layed out around the item in the exact place where they were removed from. You then have a permanent picture that you can refer to at any time in the future.
    After that get a ziplock sandwich bag, write the name of the item removed on the front of it & store the bolts in it so I dont lose them. I then stack the bags in the order that I removed the items, for easy reassembly.
    TIP : Use a light coloured surface, to lay the bolts out, for good contrast.
    Leave your nuts at home
    Every time you take off a part hand thread the bolt or nut back in its home....you can tear a bike to the floor and put it entirely back together without spending 1 extra minute of your life than you need to looking for nuts and bolts all over the shop, and even better, remembering two weeks later which bolt went where can be tough even for a pro. if they are in their home holes they never get scattered, and you never gotta go and stick a home depot bolt in your bike.....I hope this saves you hours of frustration.
    Cardboard
    Alright here's a pretty easy solution to keeping track of your bolts. Take a sheet of cardboard, and put holes through out. Now when you take bolts off, label on the cardboard to were it goes. Then put the bolt in the hole.
    Magnetic Parts Trays
    Another trick is to arrange the bolts in order in a magnetic parts tray. If you are pulling a case cover, put them in a circle around the edge of the tray, leaving a space to remind you where you started. Keep several trays, and use one for each sub-assembly that you take apart. These trays are pretty cheap at Harbor Freight.
    FlashGordon
    Broke the clutch cable at the upper lever while on an extended ride far away from home. A friend had a great idea I'd like to pass on. We pulled out the cable from the sleeve, and inserted it backwards so the lead coupling could be used in the upper lever. The sheared end of the cable was now at the bottom by the lower lever attached to the clutch disengage shaft. We used a small bolt and nut with 3 washers and pinched the cable between the washers, with the bolt going through the part of the lower lever where the swedged cable normally attaches. 1 or the 3 washers was slid between the upper and lower tabs of the lower lever, so it would not smash the tab when tightened.
    Worked great for the 3 days I was there.
    jimbob69
    If your one of those people who like to keep up on there silencer repacking, to keep that crisp response and that throaty tone, this is for you.
    1)Take silencer off of bike.
    2)Drill all rivets out, endcap rivets and all, fully dissasemble the silencer.
    3)Measure (on the endcap end) of your silencer body, just past the rivet holes and make an even cutting mark all the way around, a scribe or marker will do. (make note of the amount cut off, measure it and write it down)
    4) Cut the silencer body along the line you made in step 3, With a die grinder and disk, dremel, or even a hacksaw, so you have an end on your silencer body with no holes.
    5)Now, Use the measurement from how much you cut off your silencer body (the one that you wrote down in step 3) And cut that much off the core of your silencer.
    6)Now take your endcap, and on the surface that touches the inside of the silencer body, measure from the outside edge to the center of a rivet hole, then take that measurement, and transfer it to the silencer body and make an even scribe all the way around the endcap end.
    7)Now slide the endcap in backwards, and mark out on the silencer body where the holes are that you want to use, ( I used three, one on top and 2 on the sides towards the bottom).
    8) Now on the intersections of the marks you made in step 6 and 7 drill 1/4" holes in the silencer body, so they will match up with the holes in the endcap.
    9) Slide the endcap in the silencer body again, now putting the bolts you are going to use through the holes you just drilled, and putting the nuts on the backside. Snug all the nuts down.
    10) Weld the nuts to the inside of the endcap, then remove the bolts and the endcap.
    11)Rivet the silencer body back onto the midpipe and core section, use high temp silicone for a good seal and no vibration.
    12) reinstall silencer, pack it full of your favorite packing, put some silicone on the endcap and slide it in, put your bolts in, tighten it all down, wipe off the excess silicone. And your done!
    The benefit of this is that now all you have to do to repack your silencer is take out your 3 or so bolts, that you welded nuts on the inside of the endcap for, out, pull your endcap off, pull out your old packing, put new stuff in, reinstall your endcap with the bolts.
    No more drilling rivets and stuff.
    I did this to my 400 and it definitely cuts down on maintenance time, since i repack about 3 times per season.
    Im sorry if my instructions are hard to follow, especially without pics, hopefully you got the idea.
    JDinLakeside
    Since there is soo much talk about jetting DRZ400's with air box mods and exhaust mods I thought I would post my recent results. The mods to my new 2006 400SM went for the most part well.. Learned alot of lessons with my DRZ-400S .The mod part list is: Yoshimura 2165500-SA, DynoJet 3110.001, K&N SU-4000, assorted 4mm Allen head machine screws, and a MotoBits footpeg eliminator stolen from S model. Ebay has MotoBits kits avalible.
    1. First I removed all the plastics, seat and tank; I also temporarily removed a couple of the factor zip ties to make room to work.
    2. Remove TPS from carburetor, gas line; removed vacuum line from gas petcock, removed vacuum line from gas shut-off valve.
    3. Removed throttle cables from carb.
    4. Removed gas tank.
    5. Loosened right heel guard and dismounted rear break reservoir from frame.
    6. Removed bolts at lower frame holding rear fender assembly.
    7. Loosened the clamp of the manifold side of the carburetor and the clamp at the rear which connects to the air-box.
    8. Raise rear fender – I used an old cardboard box to hold it up in place.
    9. Rotated carb and wrestled that booger and out!
    10. Installed DynoJet stage two jet kit – 155 main, DynoJet needle (2nd clip from top) and slide spring – when I removed the bowl – I used a needle nose vice grips to break the screw loose – then threw the screws away and replaced them with 4mm Allen socket machine screws of the same length.
    11. Drilled out idle mixture screw plug – set idle to 3 ½ turn out from bottom.
    12. Re-installed carb - (Note: I also replaced the screws for the TPS with 4mm Allen head machine screws, washers and lock washers.)
    13. Removed factory header, exhaust can and passenger foot pegs.
    14. Installed new Yosh header pipe – left loose.
    15. Separated and installed Yosh mid pipe.
    16. Installed exhaust can; tossed the steel spacer and installed the new exhaust mount to the hole rear of the factory mount – I think the Yosh directions may be wrong.
    17. Reattached the rear break reservoir and installed and tightened up all remaining frame and mount points, then tightened the header pipe at the engine exhaust, and reinstalled the factory heat shield to the mid pipe.
    18. Cut a 3 inch square template from cardboard and drew lines on top of the air box with a grease pencil.
    19. I then used a sheetrock knife heated up with a propane torch to cut the 3x3 hole in the top of the air box.
    20. Removed stock air cleaner element and installed K&N filter.
    21. Reinstalled tank, plactics and seat, cleaned exhaust system with Windex.
    1st Test Run
    22. Bike was difficult to start –needed full choke (man I should have learned from experience with the DRX 400S!) I finally got it start- but it ran like crap.
    23. Run the bike up the street and promptly run out of gas.
    24. Roll bike back to garage and do a visual inspection.
    25. Put the vacuum line on the gas petcock
    2nd Test run
    26. Bike starts easily, idles wells and runs great…
    27. Removed rubber inserts in footpeg, passenger strap in seat, front reflectors, trimmed rear fender and applied appropriate decals. Performed 1st Oil and Filter change (it had a 100 miles onthe bike.)
    If I left out some steps I apologize – but I think you can get the gist of things…
    av
    Remove the seat and gas tank in order to have easy access to the valve cover. Remove the spark plug and the valve cover vent hose, then use a 5mm Allen wrench to remove the valve cover.

    Use a quarter, a big flat head screw driver or a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the 2 caps to check for the top dead center (TDC) mark.

    Use a 17mm socket and a breaker bar to turn the crank counter clockwise until you line up the '|' mark inside the TDC peep hole. The TDC mark is hard to see unless you have very good lighting.

    At TDC, the cam chain side should look like the first picture below, notice that the 'E' and the 'I' dots on the intake cam are horizontal. There should be 12 pins on the cam chain between the two 12 o'clock dots of both cams. The second picture below shows how the back of the cams should look like - notice how the lobes are pointing at 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock. I used an Allen wrench to touch the piston in order to verify TDC.

    Below, looking from the kick start side, I'm checking the left intake valve, then the middle intake valve then the right intake valve - the valid range for the intake valve clearance is 0.10-0.15mm (0.0039-0.0059 in).

    Below, looking from the kick start side, I'm checking the right exhaust valve, then the left exhaust valve - the valid range for the exhaust valve clearance is 0.17-0.22mm (0.0067-0.0087 in).

    If your valve clearances are out of specification, i.e. if the smallest feeler gauge that you can fit in there is smaller than the lower end of the specification or if the biggest feeler gauge you can fit in there is bigger than the upper end of the specification, then you'll need to get the proper pads (a.k.a. shims) and adjust the clearances back into the required specification.
    If your valve clearances are all within specification, then reinstall the valve cover, the spark plug, the valve cover vent hose, the 2 caps on the shifter side of the case for checking TDC, the gas tank (don't forget to reattach the fuel line to the carburetor), the seat and you're good to go. http://www.thumpertalk.com/public/style_emoticons/#EMO_DIR#/ride.gif
    Adjusting Valve Clearances
    In this article, we are removing both the intake and exhaust camshafts to adjust the valve clearances.
    Remove the seat and gas tank in order to have easy access to the valve cover. Remove the spark plug and the valve cover vent hose, then use a 5mm Allen wrench to remove the valve cover.

    Use a quarter, a big flat head screw driver or a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the 2 caps to check for the top dead center (TDC) mark.

    Use a 17mm socket and a breaker bar to turn the crank counter clockwise until you line up the '|' mark inside the TDC peep hole. The TDC mark is hard to see unless you have very good lighting.

    At TDC, the cam chain side should look like the first picture below, notice that the 'E' and the 'I' dots on the intake cam are horizontal. There should be 12 pins on the cam chain between the two 12 o'clock dots of both cams. The second and third pictures below show how the back of the cams should look like - notice how the lobes are pointing at 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock. I used an Allen wrench to touch the piston in order to verify TDC.

    NOTE: Since you will be removing camshafts, make sure you have the breaker bar setting the engine to TDC (see above), then zip-tie the breaker bar to the foot peg to keep the engine at TDC while you're adjusting the valve clearances. It is very important to have the engine at TDC when the camshafts go back on later, so check the TDC mark before installing the camshafts!
    Shove a clean rag or some paper towels into the cylinder head cavity to prevent things from falling in there. Tie the cam chain to the frame to prevent it from falling into the cylinder head cavity too. Remove the cam chain tensioner located on the shifter side of the cylinder next to the carburetor.

    Make sure to have a small, skinny flat head screwdriver to turn the screw inside the back of the cam chain tensioner to compress the tensioner rod during the installation process later. Notice the screw inside hole in the picture below.

    Remove the bolts on the exhaust cam cover using a criss-cross pattern. Use a flat head screw driver to gently nudge the cam cover free from the head if necessary. Be sure you don't drop the 'C' clip that sits on the cam's bearing into the cylinder head cavity (see first picture below). The cam may also need some gentle persuasion to get the bearing out of its pocket. Picture 2 below shows the exhaust valve lifters.
    [
    Having a magnetic tool such as the one shown below is a must in order to remove the valve lifters and the shims (a.k.a. pads). The magnetic tool shown below is readily available at most auto parts store.

    Remove the valve lifter that needs the clearance adjustment. The shim may be stuck to the inside of the valve lifter as shown in picture 2 below. Picture 1 shows the exhaust valves with the shims removed.

    Next, remove the intake cam...
    Remove the bolts on the intake cam cover using a criss-cross pattern. I removed the inner 2 bolts first then the outer bolts using a criss-cross pattern as shown in picture 1 below. Remove the cam cover and the intake cam. Be careful not to drop the 'C' clip into the cylinder head cavity (see picture 2 below).

    With both cams removed, use the magnetic tool to remove the valve lifters for the valves that need adjusting (see picture 2 below). Picture 3 below shows the right intake valve with the valve lifter and shim removed.

    When removing the valve lifter, the shim tends to stick to the inside of the valve lifter as shown in picture one. Remove the shim from the valve lifter by using the magnetic tool, picture 2 shows the valve lifter with the shim removed. The shim size should be printed on the upper side of the shim, but if the numbers have worn off of your shim then you'll need a micrometer such as the one shown in picture 3 below to measure the shim's thickness (i.e. its size).

    NOTE: The thickness of each shim is indicated in hundreths of millimeters. Round off the last digit of the installed shim number to the nearest increment.
    If the last digit of the shim is 0, 1 or 2 then the rounded value is 0
    If the last digit of the shim is 4, 5 or 6 then the rounded value is 5
    If the last digit of the shim is 8 or 9 then the rounded value is 10
    For example, if the installed shim is 148 then the rounded value is 150.
    Locate the rounded-off value and the measured valve clearance in the "pad selection table" (see below). The field where these two coordinates intersect shows the new pad number to use. Once you have obtained the appropriate shim size for your adjustment, oil it well and put it back as shown in the picture below (i.e. with the number facing up), then put the valve lifter back on.
    [
    Reinstall the cams and the cam covers. Make sure the 'C' clips are situated correctly on the bearings as well as in the cam covers' grooves. I installed the intake cam first, then the exhaust cam. Be sure the punch marks are lined up correctly with 12 pins between the two 12 o'clock marks (see picture 1 below). The rear of the cams should look similar to picture 2 below. Using a 8mm socket, tighten the cam covers using a criss-cross pattern, each bolt should be torqued down to no more than 84 inch-lbs (I used 80 inch-lbs to be safe).

    There should be just enough room for you to move the intake and exhaust camshafts with your fingers to make sure that they can be rotated easily. If both camshafts can be rotated easily then cut the zip-tie or string that was holding the cam chain in place and reinstall the cam chain tensioner. You will need to use a small flat head screwdriver to turn the screw on the back of the cam chain tensioner clockwise in order to compress the tensioner rod.
    Recheck your valve clearances.
    Use the 17mm socket along with the breaker bar and turn the engine counter clockwise at least a couple of revolutions to make sure everything is moving freely in the head. Reinstall the valve cover, the spark plug, the vent hose, the 2 TDC caps (on the shifter side of the case), the gas tank and seat.
    Dwight_Rudder
    -Small roll of about 3 ft of duct tape
    -About 3-5 ft of safety wire
    -At least 6 rubber bands cut from a rear tube.
    -About 1 ft. of fuel line.
    -6 longish zip ties.
    -1 masterlink
    -Shop rag
    -6" adjustable crescent wrench
    -Assorted 6mm & 8mm nuts and bolts
    -CO2 cartridge tire inflater with 3 CO2 cartridges
    -One standard 300X21 tube ( this is carried on rear fender or looped over your fanny pack belt. Can be used in emergency for front or rear tires.)
    -Two 8" tire irons.
    -Wrench to fit front and rear axle nuts.
    -Allen wrenches to fit any allen head bolts on bike
    -Multi bit screwdriver
    -8mm wrench
    -10mm wrench
    -12 or 13mm wrench depending on bike
    -14mm wrench if needed
    -17mm wrench
    -Any other wrenches or special tools that your bike may need.
    -Small vise grips with wire cutters
    -Pliers
    -Dykes ( side cutters )
    -Pocket knife
    -2 spark plugs if 2 stroke , 1 spark plug if 4 stroke
    -Spark plug wrench
    -Multi socket compact T handle
    -Spoke wrench
    What will not fit into your fanny pack will need to be rubber band strapped to the bike.
    Moose race pack or Moose enduro pack are very good to carry tools in.
    Dwight Rudder
    7 time ISDT / ISDE medalist
    8 time AMA Nat'l Enduro Class Champion
    MOmilkman
    Tires cost a lot of money so why would you want to give your dealer even more to put one on?
    Now a lot of people have different methods and ideas on how to do it properly and I am sure they all work fine, but if you follow my instructions you should be changing tires in no time. Item's you will need to have on hand before you start this project:
    A waist high place to work, 2 or 3 tire irons (I prefer Motion Pro's), a new tire, a new tube (optional), baby powder (optional), an air source (compressor), and a rockin' stereo, and patience! (the last is probably the most important!)
    Note: Tires are much harder to change if they are cold. If you can lay your new tire in the sun or somewhere hot while taking off your old tire, do it! It will make your life much simpler when it comes time to put the new tire on.
    Step 1 - Getting your old tire off
    Once you have the wheel off the bike the easiest way to approach this task is to find a surface to work on so you wont have to stoop over and work off the floor, as that can get tiresome. I found an old barrel that was once used for electrical cable and it fits the diameter (18") of the rim of my bike perfectly. It can be smaller but I wouldn't go larger than that because the rim will fall into the barrel once you get the tire off.
    Now that the tire is off the bike and you have a good working surface, the first thing you want to do is take off the rim lock nut(s) and the valve stem nut. Remove the core of the valve stem or just release the pressure in the tube (all the way) by pressing on the valve stem core. Now lay the tire on your flat surface and push with your hands trying to break the bead of the tire from the surface of the rim.
    BE ABSOLUTELY SURE BEADS ON BOTH SIDES ARE BROKEN DOWN BEFORE PROCEEDING If the tire rubber is a hard compound then it might be hard to break free, but just keep pushing on it with the palms of your hands and it will eventually break free. (Motion Pro makes a tire bead separator specifically for this job. It is not necessary but it does make the job easier) Break the bead loose on both sides of the tire. You can use C-clamps to hold the sidewalls together and MAKE SURE to get the bead(s) down in the drop center portion of the rim opposite the tire irons.
    Lay your tire down on your working surface with the sprocket side down, grab your tire irons (I like the Motion Pro tire irons myself) and put the lip of 1 tire iron on the tire.

    Now, pull the iron back. I like to rest the handle of the iron under the brake rotor to hold it there (it will not hurt your rotor) while I work on the second bite.

    NOTE: VERY IMPORTANT! - After you take the first bite on the tire take your palm and push down on the bead all the way around the tire. Then flip it over and do the same thing on the sprocket side. The purpose of this is to keep the bead of the tire to the center most part of the rim and will allow you to stretch the tire over the rim MUCH EASIER! (Additionally, it will make it much easier if you do this after the 2nd and 3rd bites also)
    The second bite is the toughest step in getting the tire off. It is kind of tough to get the tire iron in between the rubber of the tire and the rim because of the pressure the 1st tire iron already putting on the tire. The secret is not taking to big of a bite on the second and 3rd bites. Wiggle the tire iron back and forth until you can slip it under for a second bite on the tire. Pull it back and rest the handle under the brake rotor.

    Now if you have a 3rd tire iron then you’re in great shape. Just use it like you did #2 tire iron and then rest the handle of #3 tire iron under the rotor. Then go back to the first tire iron and remove it. (this may take some wiggling and patience) and place it in front of #3 and keep rotating them until you have one side of the tire off. (If you only have 2 tire irons then it might make it a little tougher but can easily be done. Just keep rotating the 2 tire irons until one side of the tire is off) Now that one side of the bead of the tire is off, reach inside the tire and grab the rim lock(s) and pull it out. Also grab the tube and pull it out. All you have to do now is get the rest of the tire off the rim. This is the last step in getting the old tire off.

    This part is very easy, keep the rim with the rotor side up and put your tire iron past the bead that you just pried off and down to the lower bead. With the lip side of the iron facing the tire pry the lever downward toward the rotor and rest the handle once again under the rotor. The tire will be in a severely misshapen manner at this point but that's fine.

    Grab your 2nd tire iron and do the same thing and then your 3rd if you have one. Once you get about 5 or 6 bites on the tire just grab the sucker and pull it off. It shouldn't be any problem at this point. NOW IT’S OFF! Congratulations!

    Probably the most important step when putting a tire back on is not pinching the new tube. If your old tube does not look extremely chaffed you can probably use it again but using a new tube each time you change a tire is the best preventative method to keep from getting a flat on the trail.
    I use Bridgestone Heavy Duty tubes because they are much thicker than a standard tube and therefore wear quite a bit longer. Thicker tube = less wear = less flats. But if you are learning how to change a tire chances are you are going to pinch 1 or 2 tubes with the tire irons before you figure out the best method. But you can greatly reduce your chances of pinching the tube by not pulling the lever all the way forward. Instead, just push the lever enough the tire slips on, and then back off.

    It is much easier to get cheapo tubes in than it is the heavy duty tubes. Heavy duty tubes run about $18 and cheap Kenda standard tubes run about $7-8. So staring with a cheapo tube might not be a bad idea either. Your call.
    Step 2 - Putting that new tire on
    First thing you should do before putting your new tire on is check the rim for any sharp edges that might catch the tube as you are installing it. If there are any present then take a file to it and smooth it out. Secondly, look at the sidewall of the new tire. Does it have a arrow on it pointing in a certain direction? If it does then be sure and mount the tire with the arrow pointing in the direction that the tire will be rotating. I run Dunlop tires myself and I have never seen an a arrow on one but I know some tires do so watch out for that. Paddle tires are one specific kind of tire that has to be mounted in the correct direction. You want the sand to be "scooped" by the tire not hit by the backside of the paddle.
    The first thing you want to do is lay the tire over the top of the rim. (still working from the rotor side) Now, you can push it on about halfway before you will have to start levering it on.

    Grab your tire irons and this time use the lip of the tire iron on the edge of the rim and not the tire.

    Pry outwardly (away from the the wheel).

    Hold the lever in place and grab your other tire iron and get another bite. (not too big of a bite - about 2-3 inches apart) Keep rotating tire irons until the first side is on. Next thing you want to do is put in the rim lock(s). Thread the nut on to the rim lock after you run it through the rim. Do not thread it down all the way just 2 or 3 turns after it starts to thread.

    Fill the tube with just enough air that the tube is not collapsed on itself. You want the tube to have enough density that when you slide a tire iron in it wont pinch it when you are putting on the final bead. Now take your baby powder (or talcum powder) and coat the outside of the tube. This will help the tube slide around inside the tire and the tube will not chaff so much. Now comes probably the toughest part of changing a tire. (not what you wanted to hear is it?) Take the tube and place it inside the tire with the valve stem parallel with the hole in the rim. The tube should be in the tire but also over the rim as much as possible. Now you want to get the valve stem though the hole from the inside right? Seems impossible but with some determination and a little luck you can squeeze your hands in there and guide it though. I learned a little trick years ago on how to make this much simpler than just guessing where the valve stem pokes through. Just take a very small screwdriver and from the inside of the rim (spoke side) run it though the valve stem hole

    Then put the valve stem on the end of the screwdriver and guide it through. Voila! No problem eh?

    Now all you have to do is put the last side of the tire on and your done. Starting where the rim lock is push the tire down over the edge of the rim using your hands. Just push as hard as you can and you will see the tire sliding over the edge of the rim. Do this as far as you can moving from the rim lock outwards. Once you have pushed it on as far as you can, FLIP THE WHOLE WHEEL OVER AND MAKE SURE TO PUSH THE BEAD DOWN IN THE DROP CENTER PORTION OF THE RIM. This is very important to do. Not only will it make your tire change so much easier, if you stretch the tire bead too much you can ruin the tire. I know, because I did just that when I first started changing tires.
    Now flip it back over (rotor side up) and spray the bead of the tire down with a slippery substance. Soap and water works great. You want to have this on for 2 reasons. One, It helps the tire slide over the rim easier and two it helps you keep from pinching your tube. Now grab a tire iron and place the lip of the lever on the rim carefully noting that you DO NOT have the tube pinched in between the rim and the tire iron. Push the tire iron back and hold it in place. Grab the other tire iron (hopefully it is close to you) and place it on the opposite side and lever down another section of the tire. Keep holding the first lever in place and pull out the second lever and keep working it all the way around. After about 3 bites, flip the tire over (to sprocket side) and push the bead down all the way around. Do this on the rotor side again too. Once again, remember, this is the most important thing to keep doing when changing tires. Keep levering the final side on until you get the last of the bead back on the rim. Now you have changed a tire!!!!

    All you have to do now is put the nut on the valve stem and put some air in the tire. Wet down both sides of the tire bead with soap and water and put about 60 lbs of air in the tube. This will seat your tire. If it doesn't then let the air back out, bounce the tire on the ground in the area it is not seating and fill with air again.
    Then tighten your rim lock, valve stem nut and set to the correct air pressure and put that sucker back on and go riding!
    yamaha 125l
    Here's how to always quickly know the torque specs on your ride's fasteners, saving you a lot of time looking specs up in the manual. Take a Sharpie pen and on the head of the fastener, write the torque spec on the it. If the bolt is black, use a silver or other contrasting color Sharpie.
    Then, for quick visual pre-ride inspection, put a dot or other mark on the fastener, then an aligning mark on the material that its fasten to. Then, if the two marks are no longer aligned, you'll know that the fastener has moved. This is a good technique for critical fasteners such as on drive sprockets, triple clamps & axle nuts.
    And, don't worry, Sharpie pen marks wipe off easily with a little brake cleaner or other solvent.
    thumperwrestler
    I'ts a known fact that the head gives off the most body heat. So why let your helmet restrict how your head gives off heat? Here's a simple 10 minute tip to help keep your head cool in the dog-days of summer.
    Tools: yourself, scissors, fishing string(any lb. test), duct tape, helmet w/ removable lining
    1st- Set your helmet on a table. Now take out the lining. It's now a good time to run these through the washer if they're dirty.
    2nd- Cut some small pieces of duct tape and hang them off the edge of your table. Cut some pieces of string about 12in in length. Tie a loop on one end of your string, resembling a noose.
    3rd- With the cheek pads (clean) in hand, insert one end of the string into the hole in the cheek pad(the hole is for the helmet strap). The other end of the string wraps around the pad and ties goes through the noose end of the string. Pull the free end until the pad compresses together. The string should be taut. This pic illustrates where the fishing line should be placed on the cheek pad.

    The top string is creates the most cooling difference, whereas the front and bottom strings make less of a cooling difference but are still effective.
    4th- Here is a pic of the opposite side of the cheek pad. The duct tape holds the string in place.

    Make sure you use enough and press down firmly so the tape doesn't slip on the string.
    5th- Now with the "cooling crevices" constructed in the helmet, slide your cheek pads back into the helmet. Here is a pic of the cheek pads.

    The pad on the right is not yet completed, notice the crevices on the left. These make a noticeable difference on the track/trail.
    Good luck and stay cool!
    PM me if you have any questions.
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