Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

Adapting a street bike harness for use as a dual sport harness.

Plain Bill


I recently bought a lightly used DR Z400E instead of the street version of the same bike. Rather than do the sensible thing and buy a complete dual sport conversion kit, I chose to save a little money, and use parts I already had plus buy a few new ones to make it street legal in Nevada.

Nevada has pretty relaxed rules for licensing a motorcycle for street use. They will license a motorcycle with fenders, lights (headlight, turn signals, and brake), mirrors, horn, muffler and reflectors. Even tho it isn't required to get a license plate, I put a speedometer on the bike just to keep track of my speed and mileage and mounted DOT tires for better performance on the highway and to avoid problems with the police after the bike had a plate.

The project:

Since the DRZ400 already has stock fenders, muffler and is an E (electric start) model, to get a plate I needed to add mirrors, lights, reflectors and horn -- and a wiring harness to connect the lights,switches and horn together. All these parts are readily available separately from many sources, except for a model specific wiring harness to convert a dirt bike to a street legal dual sport. I was only able to find such wiring harnesses as part of a model specific dual sport conversion kit -- usually costing $400 and up. I believed I could save about half that amount by buying the lights and switches from the aftermarket or used on eBay, and making my own custom wiring harness out of harness removed from a street legal motorcycle model.

In fact, a DOT approved dual sport headlight, rear fender with a tail/brake light, turn signals, hydraulically activated front stop light switch, and reflectors cost under $150. Installing these items on the dirt bike is pretty straight forward but is specific to each bike model so I won't cover it here .

What follows is a description of how to adapt a street bike harness and do your own dirt bike to dual sport conversion. I also offer some cautions and recommendations along the way. Such as: don't start such a project without some knowledge of how a motorcycle lighting system works and without having necessary hand tools including wrenches and screw drivers, soldering iron, wire cutters, multi-tester, a drill and drill bits, and be able to fabricate simple mounts for your turn signals and possibly the brake light switch.

Selecting a wiring harness:

I was fortunate in having much of the electrical system from a wrecked '88 600cc Katana to use as a starting point for the project. Included were the main wiring harness and fuse block, ignition switch, and the handle bar mounted control assemblies. These are low demand items and can be found on eBay, generally for very little money ($10-$50). Search for "wiring harness with switches" or "wiring harness with controls". If you don't find what you want, search for "wiring harness" and then check the seller's other items to see if he has the controls for sale as well.

Your best bet for a donor bike is one with the least complicated electrical system you can find that will meet the legal requirements for licensing a motorcycle in your state. Popular street legal enduro models such as Suzuki DR Z400S, DR Z400SM, DR350SE or DR650SE, Honda XL's or XR-L's, Kawasaki KLR's and some KLX650's would be best. Worst choice would be a touring bike or perhaps a late model sport bike with fuel injection and other hi-tech electrical marvels. Between those extremes are plenty of acceptable donor models.

Two things to avoid: Don't buy a wiring harness that has been cut or had wires and connectors removed. You need to be the one who decides what goes and what stays on the harness. Second, don't buy a wiring harness described as a "front" or "rear" wiring harness or any other description that suggests it's not the complete harness. Most often those terms are applied to more complex motorcycles, which you want to avoid anyway. In any case, you need a complete wiring harness, not part of one.

As suggested above, it is important that you get the wiring harness and left handlebar control assembly (with high/low beam, horn and turn signal switches) from the same motorcycle or same model donor bike. Of course, the more parts you can get included with the wiring harness, the better. That way the connectors will fit together and the wire color codes will be the same thruout they system. However, things that plug into a wiring harness such as turn signals, lights, horns and most mechanical rear brake switches are generally interchangeable between bikes and brands, even if the wire color codes are different. And, you don't have to be concerned about warning sensors and lights, ignition or charging system components that plug into the wiring harness; you aren't going to be using any of those items.

Setting up:

You will need a well lit, fairly large area to work, a table top or sheet of plywood to use as a work area. The work surface should be large enough to hold the lights, horn and switches you will use (or substitutes), plus the wiring harness, left hand control, a 12 volt battery and your tools.

If you're an old school rider (over 50?) you need to know is that modern motorcycles do not use the frame as part of the electrical system as they did from the dawn of time, into the early 1980's. Separate positive (hot) and negative (ground) wires lead to each light and other component being powered by the harness. This is far more reliable than the old way and avoids problems such as corrosion and electrolysis that occur when dissimilar metals and electricity come together. Also, you will find lighter gauge wires feeding into heavier gauge wires on the same circuits, which cuts down on the number of separate wires in the harness. When it's time to cut wires out, take care not to eliminate any heavy gauge wires needed by your dual sport circuits.

Tracing the circuits:

Your first look at a wiring harness taken off the bike can be intimidating. It looks like jumble of thick and thin wire clusters with an amazing variety of connector ends. Your task is to identify and trace the wires (circuits) which deliver current from the battery, to the switches and then to the headlight, turn signals, tail light, stop light and horn. Everything else you can ignore and will eventually cut out of the harness and throw it away, leaving just the custom dual sport harness needed for your bike.

One of the advantages to selecting one of the popular models as wiring harness donor, is that repair manuals with very complete wring diagrams are readily available. If there was anything I'd have done differently for this project, it would be to have found a manual with a wiring diagram before starting to trace the circuits for the donor bike. The diagram would have made the process a lot easier and faster. But I didn't and I imagine some of you won't either.

Circuit tracing with or without a wiring diagram is more tedious than difficult. First step is to lay the wiring harness out on a table with the wires and connectors positioned as if it was on a bike (headlight connector to the front, tail light and rear turn signals to the back. This will make it easier to find wires connecting to the component parts. Place the headlight, turn signal lights, horn and tail light on the table approximately where they will fit on the bike respective to the wiring harness. You should be able to easily identify the entire circuit by following the color coded wires thru the harness. Label both ends of the circuit and as much of the wires making it up with masking tape marked to show the circuit name (for example: left turn signal, headlight high beam, etc).

If you have the wiring diagram, trace the circuits using the wire color codes and schematic. You may have to remove some of the electrical tape to get to wires clean and un-faded enough to clearly identify the color of the wire and (often) the stripe on the wire. Not a problem since you will remove all the electrical tape and coverings to trace the circuits using the color codes that will make your new harness. Once you have the dual sport circuits identified and labeled, you can begin to remove the un-needed wires from the donor harness. That process is described in the section following.

If you don't have the wiring diagram, but do have an ignition switch, turn it to ON position. If your harness doesn't have an ignition switch, you will need to find the connector it should fit into and connect the heavy gauge 12VDC "hot" input wire to the corresponding output wire in order to test and identify the system connectors. Other functions of the ignition switch (power to the ignition and parking light) are not part of the dual sport conversion and can be ignored. Connect the handlebar control switch to the wiring harness and any other components you have and can easily match the connectors for (such as the right handlebar control switch, brake switches, etc.) You will need a flasher unit to trace that circuit and operate the turn signals so be sure to install that component.

Now connect a 12VDC battery to the harness just as it would have been connected on the motorcycle and begin plugging your dual sport components (lights, horn and switches) into connectors and test the system to see if your controls operate the components. It may be necessary to change connectors on either the wiring harness or the component to get a proper fit. Be sure to solder and wrap the splices with good quality electrical tape when you do.

It's useful to have a multi-tester able to read DC volts to see which wires are hot and which are ground. Your multi-tester should also have a continuity testing function to permit testing switches and tracing wires. Sometimes you have to search for the proper connectors. When you find the connectors, make a label by writing the name of the circuit on masking tape and attach the tape to the wire near the connector. Those labels are the end point of your dual sport circuits.

Once you have the end points for the various circuits, you also have the color codes for each circuit you need to trace and are basically at the same place as if you had the wiring diagram. Remove most of the tape and shielding material around the wires of the harness. Trace each of the circuits you want to keep (lights,horn, etc) and use masking tape to keep hot and ground wires for that circuit together as long as possible. When hot circuit wires feed into heavy gauge wire, continue tracing the hot wire to its origin at the fuse block to avoid removing any important segments of the circuit later. Keep labeling the circuits as you go until you have the start, middle and end points clearly identified.

Thinning out the un-needed wires from the harness:

When all the connectors you are going to use have been labeled, you can remove unnecessary wires from the harness. It could be considered an optional step but you will make a much nicer looking harness that is easier to snake thru the frame with the extraneous wires and parts like the charging circuit, panel light wires and ignition system wires removed.

Before you start cutting and even if you have a wiring diagram, power the system with a battery and have your lights and horn connected to their respective connector plugs. As you begin cutting away unneeded wires, test and re-test each of your circuits to be sure you haven't cut a necessary wire. A little care in this step, can save you a lot of grief and time later.

You will quickly see that some color wires have nothing to do with the circuits you intend to use. These will be for thing like oil and temperature sensors, charging, ignition and starting circuits, and are the first wires to cut and eliminate. The next group to eliminate are wires which are part of your dual sport circuits but are not necessary to it's operation. These will be wires leading to the old instrument panel such as turn signal arrows, high beam indicator, dash panel lights, etc. Some of these wires will be color coded the same as the circuit wires you need. You will have to use clues as the type of connector at the end of these wires to judge whether to cut or keep it. For example, if the wire terminates in a bulb holder such as used in an instrument panel, you can cut it. Remember to test your DS system after each cut and splice back any wires that interrupt one of your components.

Rough fitting the harness to the bike:

When you have thinned out the wiring harness and have only wires needed to operate your dual sport components left, it is time to move the wires to your dirt bike and begin fitting and adjusting the harness to it's new setting. Obviously, the fuel tank, seat and original headlight and tail light will have to be removed and you must have installed the brake light switches, turn signals, head and tail light on the bike before this can be done.

In most cases you will likely find the donor bike connector wires are longer than needed on the dirt bike. so you will shorten them to fit. When you need to lengthen wires to a component by splicing in a new segment, try to use the same color wires as were used on the donor bike. Consistent use of color coded wires makes future diagnosis and repairs a lot easier.

You may also find it necessary to change a few connector plugs to match those on the component they power. The rule here is to use female plug ends on the hot side of the system and male plugs on the component side to avoid accidental grounding of hot wires. Be sure to solder any wires you splice and wrap the splices separately with electrical tape before final wrapping of the harness.

Powering the new harness:

With the modified harness on the bike; it's time to attach it to the battery terminals and power the system up. Of course you won't attach it directly to the battery, you will use a switch, preferably your ignition key switch, to turn power on and off. I used the DRZ tail light wire, which is turned on with the ignition switch, to operate a relay feeding power from the battery to the donor fuse block using 14 gauge wires. I considered using the DRZ headlight wire (16 gauge) to power the new harness and components but with more components you need heavier gauge wire to supply enough current and avoid possible over heating or fire from small gauge wires.

A relay is a device that transfers the needed amount of current thru properly sized wires but needs only a small amount of current to activate the electromagnet that relays power from the battery to the fuse block. You can purchase a 30 amp relay used for fog or driving lights at NAPA and most other auto parts stores for $4. Using a relay activated by your key switch assures that light system and accessories have enough current to operate safely and that they only work when the key is turned on. The fuse block feeds the lights and horn just as it did on the donor bike. You should even have a couple of extra fused hot wires left over to use for accessories such as a GPS or heated grips.

Final testing and wrapping the harness:

When the wiring harness is in place with all components attached you should test each light and switch for proper operation, and double check every connection and splice to see that it is secure and safe from being separated by normal operation of the motorcycle. Turn the handle bars lock to lock as the turn signals are operating. Test the horn and brake light at the same time. Bounce on the seat, lock the front wheel and tire and compress the forks repeatedly to be sure that wires aren't stretched so tight that they can pulled apart by these actions or are rubbing on the frame or other parts of the bike so they could wear through to the bare wires and short in time.

When satisfied that the new harness and components work properly and are safe, wrap the loose wires with electrical tape. In areas where the harness is likely to rub on the frame or forks, enclose it in a protective sheath such as you may have removed from the original harness. You can also use a wiring loom cover (available at auto parts or trailer supply stores) for that purpose. Wrap the cover with electrical tape as you did the loose wires. Replace the fuel tank and seat you're good to go.

Before you go to the DMV for your plate, I recommend running the bike over the usual kind of off-road terrain you plan to use it on for a few miles as a final stress test. Better to find and fix problems early than after you have a plate and hit the trails 40 miles from home and there's no pickup truck to haul you back. Next stop should be the inspection station (in Nevada) and then on to the DMV for a VIN check and your license plate. After that, remember to keep the rubber side down.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

User Feedback

There are no comments to display.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

  • Similar Content

    • By Fred Covely
      Looking for folks to do a read here and see if I messed anything up.  Ideally someone who does professional installs of the BD/Skene.
      I'm continuing on with mods for a RTW starting in May.  I really wanted the Baja Designs Squadron Pro, as I think I'll have at least some unplanned night travel, and that could happen in remote areas.  That head mount stadium lighting looked pretty good.  The BD-SP lights have to have a dimmer if you are planning on road travel internationally is my understanding.  So I also got the Skene controller sold through Baja Designs.  I am not covering the physical install of the light here using the rubber straps, instead this is just the electrical. 
      My requirements were:
      1) It must work with the factory high/low switch
      2) it must come on when the bike powers one, just like the factory light does.
      3) Ideally all wiring changes should be in the headlight areas
      4) the wiring should be 'downstream' of the rest of the bike so that electricaly if I botched it or there was a short, only the lightening should be affected.
      5) it should be clean.  I chopped off all of the connectors on the skene controller and went to bare wire, so it all looks like OEM stuff.
      Obviously, do this at your own risk, and don't get pissed at me if it does not work.
      Start by removing the factory headlight.  It unscrews on the side and unplugs via the H4 plug which is black and has 4 wires into it (B/W, White, Dk Yello, Light Yellow)
      Stop and take a good look at the factory wiring.  Here is what you will see coming from the battery:
      A thick bundle coming from the rear of the bike goes into a 9 pin yellow connector with 7 wires going into it(Y/white, Blk/white, dk blue, Y, Black, Lt Blue, Lt Green).  I'm going to call that connector the 'hub'.  That connector goes to the left side signal, and high/low beam switch on the handle bars.  Some wires from the left side handle bar controls come back into the hub, another set of wires coming from the handlebar switch is in a bundle going to the H4 connector and then to the lamp.  You can see the split of the one of two thick bundles in the attached first photo below
      if you UNPLUG the yellow connector you completely disconnect the left side controls from the bike and the headlight.  You can then take a multimeter and test the hot side of the now unplugged yellow hub (with the key on/off to verify its switched power).  What you will find is this at the power side of the hub:
      Yellow/White: switched power, the power comes to this only when the key is on.  This is where we will get the power to the Skene controller.
      Blk/White:  On the DRZ all Blk/White is ground.  We will use this as the ground to the Skene Controller
      Yellow : this is activated when you switch the light to high beam on the handle bar.  You can see this on wiring diagrams here on thumpertalk reproduced here.  Its a simple switch, when you push high beam it sends current down that yellow wire.  This is the actual brains of the hi/low beam and what the Skene controller needs to switch the BD lamp to high beam.  So this yellow is an output from hand switch and runs down the H4 connector wire to the H4 plug as the light yellow wire.  We will plug this into the Skene controllers white high beam control wire.
      Other wires: necessary but not used by the Skene controller or the BD lamp.
      Overall what we are going to do.
       1) The skene dimmer has a very nice illustration of the wiring attached below.
       2) We have a single lamp, so the Skene doc says to combine(splice) the striped violet/wht and striped orange/wht together in the case where you only have a single light (skene controllers are used for cars and such so it can be tailored to a bike).  Also we have to use a ground from one of those wires.  That ground and the spliced violet/wht, orange/wht wires will go to the two prong Skene plug that goes into the actual connector on the BD light.  Locate the two prong plugs (2 of them to start) on the Skene controller wires that are compatible with the plug on the back of the BD light.  We will splice the connectors together on the Skene side then plug a single plug into the BD, discarding one of the two Skene plugs that came with the controler. 
      3) We want to hook up the power and ground to the wires coming from the battery to the corresponding wires on the input side of the yellow hub.
      4) The output of the switch at the drivers left handbar is the lighter yellow  wire going into the H4 connecter so that has to be attached to the white control wire of the Skene
      Splicing/connecting wires:
      Everyone has their own way of doing this, there are tons of youtube videos on the topic.  I like the Nasa method.  You have several wires you want to "tap into' where you strip a wire in the middle and tie a new wire into it, and you have a couple of wires where you just want to connect the ends together.  I soldered all of my connections, let them cool, then used liquid tape to cover all of the open wire, then wrapped that in high quality electrical tape.  For splicing into an existing wire, which you do not want to cut, I used the Irwin Vise Grip wire self adjusting splicing tool.  You just lay the wire still connected on both ends into the tool and it will strip and area off the middle of the wire leaving the ends completely intact.
      Detailed instructions:
      1) When you do the work, leave the wires open until you test the light fully to make sure all is well.  Obviously with all that exposed wire, make sure don't short any of them together.
      2) turn the key off.
      3) unplug the yellow hub connector.  If you have a meter, you may want to switch the key on and off and verify the above info at the yellow hub connector, and also at the H4 connector, obviously leave the key off before you start cutting wire.
      4) On the Skene, you will end up cutting all the wires to length, so you can start by cutting the bundles coming out of the Skene to an apropos length for your bike, obviously leave a little extra.
      5) Splice the Skene Black wire into the Blk/White wire behind the hot side of yellow connector hub (the side coming from the battery).  That's ground.  Use the wire stripper to expose the blk/white wire coming from the battery and splice in the Skene ground wire.
      6) The Skene comes with good instructions indicating that you can combine the solid Violet, Orange, and Red from the Skene controller all together so do so.  Just cut and strip the ends of the violet,orange and red wire together.  Splice those 3 to the wire with the fuse on it that comes with the Skene controller.  Then connect that singe fused wire to the yellow/white 'hot wire' coming into the yellow connector hub.  Use the wire stripper to expose the wire in the Yellow/white wire, again behind the hot side of the hub and splice it in.  You should see red/violet/orange wires from controller merging into the red wire that goes through the fuse, and then the wire on the other side of the fuse spliced into the yellow/wht wire at the back of the yellow 'hub' connector.
      7) Now you hook up the 'brains'.  Clip off the H4 connector that used to go to the old headlight.  Strip the end of the light yellow wire, and attach it to the Skene's white wire.
      8) Working just with the Skene side now.  Cut off both of the two prong connectors on the skene striped orange/white and violet/white lines.  You will reuse one of the connectors so make sure you leave enough wire on the back of it to reuse.  The connectors have a striped line and a ground line running into them.  Ultimately these are what power and ground the BD light.  Trim the wires to size.  Strip the orange/white and violate/white and combine them.  You should only use one of the black ground wires and it should go into the Skene ground wire (they have it looped together in the package I got, not shown in the Skene diagram).  Now re-attache one of the adapters to the combined striped wire and to ground.
      9) you can cap off the other 3 wires going to the H4 connector (Dk yellow, Black/wht, white).
      10) plug the two prong Skene adaptor with the striped violet and striped orange wires, and the ground wire into the back of the bD light.  See skene plug to BD light adapter attachment below.
      10) at this point you should be able to test the light.  turn on the key and make sure that with the key on and the hand switch on low bean that the light comes on, just like the factory original.  Then switch to high beam and make sure it work.
      Attachment below of completed wiring at the controller should help.
      Zip everything up, making sure its water tight and yur done.

    • By Bryan Bosch

      Rockstar Energy Husqvarna Factory Racing Rally Star Earns Third Overalll at the 2018 Edition of the Event in Morocco
      April 20, 2018 – (Motor Sports Newswire) – Determined to wrap up his week-long adventure in Morocco on a high, Rockstar Energy Husqvarna Factory Racing’s Pablo Quintanilla has topped the fifth and final stage of the Merzouga Rally to secure a solid third overall in the event’s final overall standings. Continuing to make progress Andrew Short has claimed a spot inside the top 10 in the overall.
      Featuring a mass, motocross-styled start in the dunes of the Merzouga Desert, the fifth and final stage of the event saw Pablo Quintanilla put in a dominant performance. Posting the fastest time for the day, the Chilean rally star solidified his strong third position in the overall standings.
      Putting in his best individual stage performance Rockstar Energy Husqvarna Factory Racing’s Andrew Short crossed the line in eighth position. Wrapping up the Merzouga Rally 10th in the overall, the American is content with the progress he made during the week in Morocco.
      The Rockstar Energy Husqvarna Factory Racing Team will return to action at the third round of the 2018 FIM Cross-Country Rallies World Championship, the Atacama Rally in Chile on August 11/19.
      Pablo Quintanilla: “Today was a really fun stage. We had the motocross start and it was good to battle with the guys from start to finish. I got off to a good start but five or six kilometres into the stage I had a small crash that dropped me back a few positions. Then I had to push until the end and 10km before the finish I got the lead back and was the first to cross the finish line. It felt really nice to win a stage that way. Overall, I’m satisfied with my third position in the overall. This was a tough race with tricky navigation and to be on the podium is always good. We continue to gather experience and look ahead in the races to come.”

      Andrew Short: “I really enjoyed this week in Morocco. Especially this last day was really fun, bringing back memories from my days racing motocross. Before the flag dropped the nerves were there and I was maybe a bit late off the start. It was a good experience racing alongside the fastest guys in the dunes and being able to see their pace. The adrenaline kicked in and I had some really good fun. Overall, the week has been great for me. I enjoy the atmosphere in rally racing and I feel I am improving, getting closer to the top guys. I might still have a long way to go but I understand it needs to be done step-by-step. This week was a positive step in the right direction.”
      2018 Merzouga Rally – Stage 5 Provisional Classification
      1. Pablo Quintanilla (Husqvarna) 38:12 
      2. Kevin Benavides (Honda) 38:15
      3. Toby Price (KTM) 38:18
      4. Lorenzo Santolino (Sherco) 38:36
      5. Joan Barreda (Honda) 38:38
      6. Ignacio Cornejo (Honda) 38:54

      8. Andrew Short (Husqvarna) 38:56
      2018 Merzouga Rally – Final Overall Classification [Provisional]
      1. Joan Barreda (Honda) 13:28:19
      2. Kevin Benavides (Honda) 13:34:29
      3. Pablo Quintanilla (Husqvarna) 13:39:44 
      4. Franco Caimi (Yamaha) 13:47:08
      5. Ricky Brabec (Honda) 13:48:23
      6. Toby Price (KTM) 13:49:23

      10. Andrew Short (Husqvarna) 14:29:44
      Husqvarna Motorcycles. Tradition on two wheels since 1903.
      Husqvarna Motorcycles are widely known and respected in the off-road world for a heritage of competition and numerous motocross and enduro world championships. Originally founded in Sweden in 1903, Husqvarna Motorcycles have been designed and manufactured in Mattighofen, Austria since 2013.
      Rockstar Energy Drink
      Rockstar Energy Drink is designed for those who lead active lifestyles – from Athletes to Rockstars. Available in over 20 flavors at convenience and grocery outlets in over 30 countries, Rockstar supports the Rockstar lifestyle across the globe through Action Sports, Motor Sports, and Live Music. For more information visit:
      Source: Husqvarna Motorcycles GmbH

    • By Inuviktoo
      Hi All,
      I was just given a red Suzuki "quadmaster" 50.  This is the 2 stroke oil injected quad with red plastics.  I have a couple of questions that I am hoping for some help with:
      1. Any advice on where to find the VIN #?  I would like to figure out what year it is so that I can properly order parts. The only numbers I have located are on the engine at the base of the cylinder on the pull-start side.
      2. What is everyone's actual experience with Chinese-made carbs and top end kits?  The reviews on Amazon and Ebay are either "total garbage" or "best thing ever". I don't know what to think.
      3. This quad has a ton of hours on it, but it does run ok.  The carb seems pretty tired, and leaks fuel like crazy.  I have not torn into it yet to see what the float condition is.  I'd love to hear folks experience with carb rebuilds again vs. aftermarket replacement.  I am also not seeing a lot of piston's available.  RMATV does not seem to even list an OEM option from what I can tell.  Is there a best option for top end freshening?
      Thanks for any advice or help.  I'm trying to keep this "free" quad as cheap as possible while trying to get it to run well for my kids. 
    • By Acriswell
      Hey All!
      I recently traded a bike for my new 1973 Suzuki ts400. The bike has been sitting awhile, after doing the normal, carb gaskets cleaning, checking spark, then realizing the ignition system (pei) needs a timing light to check timing, i tried to start it up with a little bit of premixed gas just to see where its at... the only thing i get get the ol girl to do its backfire out of the carb (no elbow or airbox) it seems like its got hell of a compression to it but i removed the exhaust to take a peek at the rings. It seemed to be scored up, so i took some pics. Anyone know what the compression is supposed to be? Any help is greatly appreciated! 
      Thanks, Austin.