• Announcements

    • Bryan Bosch

      Buy/Sell/Trade/Wanted   01/18/2018

      Checkout our robust classifieds for amazing deals on bikes, parts, accessories, gear & apparel 

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

Basic Clutch Maintenance


CBDaddy

Clutches are prone to routine beatings and need to be checked and maintained on a regular basis. Clutch parts wear at different rates depending on the rider’s style and riding conditions. Here are a few basic tips that anyone with a torque wrench can easily handle.

1. Let’s look under the hood: Start by either draining the engine oil, or laying the bike on its side (if you prefer to change the oil after working on the clutch). Drop the rear brake pedal by removing the allen screw holding it in place. Remove the clutch cover bolts and pop the clutch cover off. Careful not to damage the gasket.

2. Remove the center clutch screws and springs. You can now remove the pressure plate and access all the clutch fibers and drive plates.

3. Inspect the clutch fibers and drive plates. The service manual will give you minimum thickness specifications. If the plates are black and visibly shot, play it safe and replace them. The steel drive plates can warp when overheated. Inspect them for warpage by laying them on a flat surface such as a piece of glass.

4. Inspect the clutch basket for notches on the sides of the tangs. A well maintained basket should have smooth tangs. Notched tangs inhibit smooth clutch operation and can keep the clutch from functioning properly. The die cast aluminum baskets wear easily. Investing in a good aftermarket clutch basket will improve clutch feel, extend basket life, and improve oil flow through the clutch. I am a personal fan of the Wiseco baskets since they are forged instead of machined from billet. Forgings are tougher and lighter than billet parts due to grain flow in the material that is aligned to the features of the part. (Read more about changing the clutch basket in the clutch basket article – coming soon.)

5. Inspect the inner clutch for notches on the sides of the drive splines. Like the clutch basket, the inner clutch can become notched after time. If the drive splines are notched badly, replace the inner clutch. The OEM inner clutches are relatively inexpensive, but aftermarket inner clutches like the Hinson will offer the same benefits as an aftermarket clutch basket.

6. If either the clutch basket or the inner clutch need replaced, you will need to remove the center nut from the transmission shaft that holds the inner clutch in place. An impact wrench works best for removing this nut. However, if you don’t have an impact wrench, you will need a special tool to hold the inner clutch while you remove and install the center nut. DO NOT jam something in-between the inner clutch screw bosses to try and hold it. They WILL break off.

7. Assemble the clutch by first putting the basket on the shaft. MAKE SURE it drops down onto the shaft all the way. There are 2-3 gears that have to line up with the back of the clutch basket, so make sure everything meshes and the basket drops all the way onto the shaft. A splined washer goes on next, and then the inner clutch hub. The retainer washer goes on after the inner clutch, and finally the retainer nut. While holding the inner clutch with the special holding tool, torque the center nut according to the torque spec in the service manual. (I usually snug the nut back on with the impact wrench, but this is NOT recommended, as you run the risk of over torquing and stripping the nut/shaft.)

8. Soak the new clutch plates in oil and then install them into the clutch. Always start with a fiber, and then alternate steel, fiber, steel, fiber, until you end with the last fiber. The clutch plates should stack up to about the same height as the top of the clutch basket.

9. Return the lifting post to its proper location in the end of the transmission shaft. Then install the pressure plate, followed by the clutch springs and bolts. Torque the spring bolts to the proper specification.

10. Install the clutch cover and torque the bolts to the proper spec. Lastly, install the brake pedal.

11. Ensuring the clutch cable is adjusted properly can have a large effect on the life span and operation of the clutch. The general rule is a “nickel’s” worth of play at the lever.

Maintaining a clutch is not very complicated, but can have huge benefits to ensuring your ride or race is fun and trouble free. Torquing all the bolts according to the specs in the service manual is the most important step. Buy a good torque wrench and go for it! :)


Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0


User Feedback




Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


  • Similar Content

    • By Kieran Black
      I have freshly rebuild my top end on my 2009 yzf250, new intake valves piston and rings, cam chain. I put it all back together ran mint, but after starting it up for about the 3Rd time a loud knocking noise from the engine appears, the bike is still running fine although a very obvious loud knocking noise. valves are all inspect aswel. note, the knocking id only at one certain compression stroke its past TDC its a short stroke but quite a difficult one, never had even put it in gear so i dont think it is the trans. i also ripped out the cams a couple times thinking that was the problem and once i put it together it ran mint for about 4 seconds then knocking came back. I originally thought it was the exhaust cam decompression sticking but after inspection was not making the nosie. I took the flywheel off and checked if I had put it wrong, but no. have just tore apart the clutch side cover and all teeth are fine. I am at a point where I don't know what to do next. please any advice is much appreciated.
    • By raymondthebodeau
      These are pictures of a 2006 honda crf 250 right side case half. In the kick starter mechanism housing, there is a small piece of aluminum that bridges across a hole in the case. It broke off, and im wondering if anybody else has seen this before, and will it be an issue? I dont think it serves a purpose, but i would like a second opinion. Thanks!

    • By Supermotofool
      Now that I am rebuilding my 2001 DRZ400S due to a crash.. I want to be sure that when it happens again the bike will not be completely totaled.  I cannot find any axle sliders for it because it does not have hollow axles. The only thing I have been able to find are engine guards that mount to the frame so I will for sure be getting those. So I just have questions on how to get axle sliders mounted on my bike, and I also will probably be getting a handbrake sometime in the near future. Would I be better off just swapping to an SM swingarm? 
      I wish there was a document listing all the spec differences between the SM and S models. 
      Any help would be great.
      Best regards.
    • By Hewie
      Hoping someone with a lot more experience than myself might be able to help me out. 
      Make: YZ450F 2012 model EFI
      Symptoms: 
      idles for a minute or two and then stalls when hot and I back off the throttle it stalls after stalling when hot, takes lots of kicks to start again, when i remove the plug and dry and clean it the bike will start more easily What I had done to it before it started this:
      bike seized due to  chain tensioner wore out and travelled up into the cam chain and head. replaced piston and cylinder (aftermarket Athena installed) assembled head with new valves and springs new cam chain set valve clearance replaced clutch (basket as well) After less than 10 hours, the stalling was happening too frequently to ride without losing my calm so I took it to the shop again. They spent seven hours trying to diagnose the fault with no results.
      reset cam timing and checked flywheel key found small amount of water in oil cleaned injector and air mixture screw checked crankshaft position sensor checked coil and cap replaced spark plugi inspected TPS, APS, atmospheric pressure sensor and kill switch It was getting too expensive to leave at the shop any longer so I am trying to have a crack at it myself. Does anyone have any ideas? I'm going to try to do a compression test or leak down test this week. Also, has anyone made up the test harnesses for this engine?... I'm not keen to buy a gytr tuner to test the sensors again if I can avoid it.
      Any help would be greatly appreciated.
    • By Kor3y101
      Hey guys!
      So after chasing down an issue of fuel being in my Oil, it turns out the float needle isn't leaking and the carby is functioning as it should. It was an issue with the Accellerator Pump causing fuel to leak over as the throttle was constantly being turned to try and start the bike whilst it had a valve issue. 
       
      So, I have since replaced the filter and dropped the oil twice. However it is still a bit too diluted and smells of fuel. I had left the dipstick off to try and vent the frame. I know there isn't more fuel getting Into the oil as the level isn't changing and it isn't getting worse. 
       
      What is the best way to flush it all out? Buy 5L of cheap car oil, warm the bike, drop the oil. Rinse and repeat? Or use an engine oil flush additive? Or both? 
      I know I need to get another oil filter again, should I put that in after I have flushed it out, or before? The current filter has had 1 oil gone through it and dropped and is currently on its second lot of oil. It has done maybe 20km since then. 
       
      Cheers!