Get a 1 liter, graduated, clear plastic tomato sauce (ketchup) bottle from the supermarket. Use this to measure oils and squirt into engine, no measuring jug or funnel required. I have one each for both engine and gearbox and have the correct quantity written on the bottles. They are also handy for small top-offs.
Cheap Oil Measuring Bottle
In the Shop (Shop Boards)
Of course, you can write your last oil change on a piece of paper and throw it in your toolbox but we all know that "out of sight is out of mind." What about your suspension service, valve adjustments, etc? How long have the current tires or sprockets lasted?
With Boxx Tech Boards, you can now have all the most vital service information conveniently on the wall in your shop on a 12" wide x 16" tall pre-printed dry erase board, so it will not be overlooked or forgotten. Designed for all modern 4 stroke off-road and motocross bikes. (2-strokes and minis coming soon!) Choose between 5 different background images!
Many people purchase new bikes with the intention of keeping full records, but very few actually stick with it. With Boxx Tech Boards, each time you do service, just write down the date and hours from your hour meter, and when you will do the next service on that component. There is no longer any question when its time to do service!!
-Marker, clip, mounting screws included
-For all modern 4 stroke offroad and motocross bikes
-Made in the USA of only the highest quality materials
At The Track (Track Boards)
At Boxx Tech we understand the importance of suspension changes for different tracks and the ever changing terrain. With our Track Boards you can now keep up with those changes with ease.
Our 12" wide x 8" tall board comes with multiple mounting options including magnetic strips on the back so it can always be kept close for those last second changes. The Track Board includes a column for your baseline setting, so you can always go back to your starting point whether it be stock settings, or those recommended by your suspension technician.
-Marker, clip, mounting screws, and magnetic strips included
-Made in the USA of only the highest quality materials
Boxx-Tech.com for more info!!
By Bryan Bosch
The Two Stroke Dirt Bike Engine Building Handbook is the most comprehensive guide for dirt bike engine building available, whether you are working at home or as a professional in a shop. The process of building two-strokes to race engine quality is explained in-depth in this thoroughly illustrated handbook.
Containing over 300 full color pictures, 280+ pages of step-by-step instruction, and detailed technical knowledge that can be applied to any make and model, The Two Stroke Dirt Bike Engine Building Handbook is a trusted guide for any expert or beginner.
When To Rebuild - a detailed list of the ways to diagnose whether your two-stroke is due for a full rebuild, to help you understand the warning signs and symptoms your bike may be exhibiting.
Tests To Help Determine Engine Health - a comprehensive guide that takes you through how to perform a leak down test, compression test, and crankcase leak down test complete with full color pictures and detailed instructions.
Leading Causes Of Premature Engine Failure - a complete chapter dedicated to the factors that can cause an engine to fail prematurely and how to avoid them.
What Should Be Replaced - a detailed guide on what components will be replaced when doing a full rebuild on a two-stroke dirt bike engine.
What Tools Do I Need - an in-depth overview on all the necessary tools to correctly teardown, inspect, and rebuild a two-stroke dirt bike engine.
Precision Measurement Tools And How To Use Them - teaches you how to take accurate and repeatable measurements when building an engine. Covers the top ten precision measurement tools as well as how to read, calibrate, and use them during a build.
Workshop Environment - a full guide to creating a healthy and sustainable workshop environment when engine building.
Race Engine Build Considerations - a complete outline of the most common race/performance engine modifications detailing how performance parts affect power and reliability. Complete with tips on how to select performance parts based on your personal riding needs and what will yield the biggest gains for your money.
Full Teardown - a complete overview on correct teardown procedures for any two-stroke make and model. Includes how to remove the engine from the frame, tips and tricks for keeping track of all hardware and parts, how to properly remove components from the engine as to not damage gasket surfaces, important measurement and inspection points, how to correctly remove the flywheel and piston, and how to properly split the crankcases.
Complete Inspection, Replacement, And Assembly Of Sub Assembly Components - a step-by-step thorough investigation of how to identify problematic wear patterns on old parts to help pinpoint causes of engine problems or failures. Also covered is how to correctly build up subassemblies including such components as the crankcases, transmission, crankshaft, cylinder, power valves, kickstart, and clutch. In addition, procedures on how to improve or repair your engine components are covered. Examples include how to true crankshafts, hone cylinders, and repair damaged crankcases.
Reassembly - detailed instruction on how to correctly reassemble the engine and install it back into the frame. Race engine building techniques are also covered in detail and include checking port timing, squish, and compression ratio.
Engine Break In - covers the how and why behind breaking in a newly built engine and provides step-by-step instructions.
So I'm doing an oil change before heading to the track next weekend. I'd never been in her so I pull everything to check the oil strainers. I re-install the frame oil strainer and as I'm going to run on a road track, I drill the banjo bolt and frame downtube drain bolt for safety wire. Fine so far. Install & torque the banjo bolt, all good. Go to install the downtube bolt, checking the manual 1st for proper torque value, & run into trouble. The manual shows 29 lb-ft torque for this bolt. As I'm tightening it down I'm thinking this is not right. So I grab my lb-in wrench, set down to 180 (or 15lb-ft), and give it a twist. Pop, off comes the head of the bolt ... &%$#@!
The only plus side to this is it appears that I can back the rest of the bolt out with a punch/hammer. Ruins my Saturday ...