Looking for folks to do a read here and see if I messed anything up. Ideally someone who does professional installs of the BD/Skene.
I'm continuing on with mods for a RTW starting in May. I really wanted the Baja Designs Squadron Pro, as I think I'll have at least some unplanned night travel, and that could happen in remote areas. That head mount stadium lighting looked pretty good. The BD-SP lights have to have a dimmer if you are planning on road travel internationally is my understanding. So I also got the Skene controller sold through Baja Designs. I am not covering the physical install of the light here using the rubber straps, instead this is just the electrical.
My requirements were:
1) It must work with the factory high/low switch
2) it must come on when the bike powers one, just like the factory light does.
3) Ideally all wiring changes should be in the headlight areas
4) the wiring should be 'downstream' of the rest of the bike so that electricaly if I botched it or there was a short, only the lightening should be affected.
5) it should be clean. I chopped off all of the connectors on the skene controller and went to bare wire, so it all looks like OEM stuff.
Obviously, do this at your own risk, and don't get pissed at me if it does not work.
Start by removing the factory headlight. It unscrews on the side and unplugs via the H4 plug which is black and has 4 wires into it (B/W, White, Dk Yello, Light Yellow)
Stop and take a good look at the factory wiring. Here is what you will see coming from the battery:
A thick bundle coming from the rear of the bike goes into a 9 pin yellow connector with 7 wires going into it(Y/white, Blk/white, dk blue, Y, Black, Lt Blue, Lt Green). I'm going to call that connector the 'hub'. That connector goes to the left side signal, and high/low beam switch on the handle bars. Some wires from the left side handle bar controls come back into the hub, another set of wires coming from the handlebar switch is in a bundle going to the H4 connector and then to the lamp. You can see the split of the one of two thick bundles in the attached first photo below
if you UNPLUG the yellow connector you completely disconnect the left side controls from the bike and the headlight. You can then take a multimeter and test the hot side of the now unplugged yellow hub (with the key on/off to verify its switched power). What you will find is this at the power side of the hub:
Yellow/White: switched power, the power comes to this only when the key is on. This is where we will get the power to the Skene controller.
Blk/White: On the DRZ all Blk/White is ground. We will use this as the ground to the Skene Controller
Yellow : this is activated when you switch the light to high beam on the handle bar. You can see this on wiring diagrams here on thumpertalk reproduced here. Its a simple switch, when you push high beam it sends current down that yellow wire. This is the actual brains of the hi/low beam and what the Skene controller needs to switch the BD lamp to high beam. So this yellow is an output from hand switch and runs down the H4 connector wire to the H4 plug as the light yellow wire. We will plug this into the Skene controllers white high beam control wire.
Other wires: necessary but not used by the Skene controller or the BD lamp.
Overall what we are going to do.
1) The skene dimmer has a very nice illustration of the wiring attached below.
2) We have a single lamp, so the Skene doc says to combine(splice) the striped violet/wht and striped orange/wht together in the case where you only have a single light (skene controllers are used for cars and such so it can be tailored to a bike). Also we have to use a ground from one of those wires. That ground and the spliced violet/wht, orange/wht wires will go to the two prong Skene plug that goes into the actual connector on the BD light. Locate the two prong plugs (2 of them to start) on the Skene controller wires that are compatible with the plug on the back of the BD light. We will splice the connectors together on the Skene side then plug a single plug into the BD, discarding one of the two Skene plugs that came with the controler.
3) We want to hook up the power and ground to the wires coming from the battery to the corresponding wires on the input side of the yellow hub.
4) The output of the switch at the drivers left handbar is the lighter yellow wire going into the H4 connecter so that has to be attached to the white control wire of the Skene
Everyone has their own way of doing this, there are tons of youtube videos on the topic. I like the Nasa method. You have several wires you want to "tap into' where you strip a wire in the middle and tie a new wire into it, and you have a couple of wires where you just want to connect the ends together. I soldered all of my connections, let them cool, then used liquid tape to cover all of the open wire, then wrapped that in high quality electrical tape. For splicing into an existing wire, which you do not want to cut, I used the Irwin Vise Grip wire self adjusting splicing tool. You just lay the wire still connected on both ends into the tool and it will strip and area off the middle of the wire leaving the ends completely intact.
1) When you do the work, leave the wires open until you test the light fully to make sure all is well. Obviously with all that exposed wire, make sure don't short any of them together.
2) turn the key off.
3) unplug the yellow hub connector. If you have a meter, you may want to switch the key on and off and verify the above info at the yellow hub connector, and also at the H4 connector, obviously leave the key off before you start cutting wire.
4) On the Skene, you will end up cutting all the wires to length, so you can start by cutting the bundles coming out of the Skene to an apropos length for your bike, obviously leave a little extra.
5) Splice the Skene Black wire into the Blk/White wire behind the hot side of yellow connector hub (the side coming from the battery). That's ground. Use the wire stripper to expose the blk/white wire coming from the battery and splice in the Skene ground wire.
6) The Skene comes with good instructions indicating that you can combine the solid Violet, Orange, and Red from the Skene controller all together so do so. Just cut and strip the ends of the violet,orange and red wire together. Splice those 3 to the wire with the fuse on it that comes with the Skene controller. Then connect that singe fused wire to the yellow/white 'hot wire' coming into the yellow connector hub. Use the wire stripper to expose the wire in the Yellow/white wire, again behind the hot side of the hub and splice it in. You should see red/violet/orange wires from controller merging into the red wire that goes through the fuse, and then the wire on the other side of the fuse spliced into the yellow/wht wire at the back of the yellow 'hub' connector.
7) Now you hook up the 'brains'. Clip off the H4 connector that used to go to the old headlight. Strip the end of the light yellow wire, and attach it to the Skene's white wire.
8) Working just with the Skene side now. Cut off both of the two prong connectors on the skene striped orange/white and violet/white lines. You will reuse one of the connectors so make sure you leave enough wire on the back of it to reuse. The connectors have a striped line and a ground line running into them. Ultimately these are what power and ground the BD light. Trim the wires to size. Strip the orange/white and violate/white and combine them. You should only use one of the black ground wires and it should go into the Skene ground wire (they have it looped together in the package I got, not shown in the Skene diagram). Now re-attache one of the adapters to the combined striped wire and to ground.
9) you can cap off the other 3 wires going to the H4 connector (Dk yellow, Black/wht, white).
10) plug the two prong Skene adaptor with the striped violet and striped orange wires, and the ground wire into the back of the bD light. See skene plug to BD light adapter attachment below.
10) at this point you should be able to test the light. turn on the key and make sure that with the key on and the hand switch on low bean that the light comes on, just like the factory original. Then switch to high beam and make sure it work.
Attachment below of completed wiring at the controller should help.
Zip everything up, making sure its water tight and yur done.