Economical 2005-6 WR450 AIS removal


DeepPurplishBlue

Recently acquired a low-hour 2005 WR450 and was faced with having to un-do the half assed attempt at AIS removal the previous owner had done.

A real horror show that leaked badly and it had to go in favor of a proper permanent solution.

The GYTR AIS removal kit for the 2005-6 WR450s is a dodgy solution also, relying on clamping a cap on the 90 degree elbow coming out of the cylinder head.

There used to be pre-made options for AIS removal on these bikes, but now those are all gone except for the GYTR kit.

The solutions that are no longer available consisted of a plug that was driven into the hole in the head left after removing the pipe elbow. A much better solution than the GYTR kit.

Some will say the GYTR kit is nice because it includes a needle and throttle stop, but the value there is dubious considering that you can just cut the throttle stop and many folks (myself included) opt for the JD jetting kit so that makes the GYTR needle and jets unnecessary.

So, faced with not wanting to lay out $50 for the GYTR kit and its weak answer to the problem I set out to find an acceptable substitute for the plugs that are no longer available.

Behold the solution:

IMG_0959.JPG

Dorman part number 555-106 freeze plugs, a whopping 39 cents each at O'Reilly Auto Parts. These are 12.1mm oil gallery plugs. The hole in the head is 12mm, and these fit perfectly. Actually a bit tighter than the pipe elbow I removed.

One plug installed:

IMG_0958.JPG

There is a lip at the bottom of the hole that prevents them from being driven in too far. The hole is deep enough to accept as many as three plugs, but that is definitely overkill. As tightly as they fit, one should be plenty but erring on the side of caution and just wanting to fill the hole up so it doesn't collect a lot of mud and dirt I installed a second one:

IMG_0961.JPG

These are not coming out without a drill and a slide hammer.

This is the proper, permanent solution to this problem!

For the small vacuum fitting on the head near the carb, a standard rubber vacuum cap is sufficient. Also for the airbox, a 1/2 inch rubber vacuum cap took care of that.

Total investment:

Dorman 555-106 plugs: .39 each, .78 total

Pack of assorted vacuum caps: 3.49

Total: $4.27

Less than 1/10 the price of the GTYR kit, and a MUCH better solution in my opinion!




User Feedback


My '13 looks a bit different.

 

1) Did you have to remove a fitting before plugging the hole?

2) Did you just tap them in there or use some type of sealant?

Share this comment


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Found this old feed...very helpful - thanks. 

Question:  Do you have to remove the engine from the frame to access the hole...mine is located almost directly behind the front center frame tube??  Also seems not much access to Twist and pull the Elbow out of the engine or install the freeze plugs? 

Share this comment


Link to comment
Share on other sites


Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


  • Similar Content

    • By MegaVideo's
      Sorry for lots of pictures, but is this piston still usable? 







    • By dank08
      I am selling my 2001 yz426f(As is), I bought it used from private seller back in 2011.  I rarely used it at first, playing around in dirt areas and local OHV trails.  I began using it for bigger trail rides like Gorman in Hungry valley.  I hated the manual decompression. In 2015 I bought Hotcams stage 1 intake and exhaust cams for the auto decompression.  I had Motorcycle Tech in Upland, CA do the install.  They also installed a new Piston Ring and Intake valve.  Have work order paperwork and old parts from the job.  Last big ride was 2017 September, Kennedy Meadows.  Put on new tires before this ride along with fresh oil/filter and new air filter.  Bike ran like a champ and we made it up some some pretty nasty climbs first try 
      Bike has been sitting since then.  I've road it around the block a few different times.  It seems carb float bowl gasket is going bad or just dried up? When I started it today gas was leaking.  After I rode it around the block it no longer leaked.  Will check again tomorrow. 7/13/18
      *Update*
      Kicked over Friday and Sat. bowl was no longer leaking fuel.
      The Hand Grips are new. The front and rear fenders along with radiator shrouds are a year old.  Side # plate cracked as seen in picture.
      Still an awesome ol' powerful bike.
      Negatives are a heavy clutch pull and a grabby clutch.
      Selling because I've replaced it and have no intention of using it anymore.
      Pink in hand.
      I'm asking $2,000 OBO for the bike as is.
      No trades.
      Cash only please.
      Serious inquiries only.
      Thank you.
       
    • By JakeBurcham
      Hello everybody,
      My name is Jake and Im new to TT. I just picked up a 2003 yz125 that needs a LOT of work. I was hoping that you all could help me find parts for this bike. Here are some things that I am searching for:
      complete donor bike. could be 99-04 yz125 that was wrecked, salvaged, etc. Also I am not an expert on yz125 part interchangability so if you all have any info on that topic that would be really helpful. For example, do a lot of yz250 parts interchange with the 125? What years are certain yz125 parts interchangable with the ones on an 03?  A donor motor. The motor on my bike is seized up and pretty rusty. I will be attempting to save as much of it as possible, but I need a clutch pack and top end (piston, ring, etc). The perfect donor motor would be a good motor with busted transmission (since my transmission seems to be fine). Rear Wheel. I dont have one at the moment. Hoping to find a good rim and hub assembly with maybe bad bearings or bad tire. Basically looking for something fixable here. Ive had some luck on ebay for the rear wheel but Im waiting to see if I cant find a donor bike that has a decent rear wheel. This will be an on-going project for me and I will be posting updates as I go. I would appreciate your help!

    • By ReaptheHeat
      2013 WR250R with 2.1k miles. 2nd Owner. Used for some light commuting and mostly FS roads. OTD new these are 7k+. Has the essential protection and luggage mods that will save you $500+ from the start.

      Ideally I would like to trade for a 350 or 500ish EXC, Beta 350-500. Fuel Injection preferred. Negotiable when dealing with trades.

      Mods:

      -Flatlands Skid Plate
      -Flatlands Radiator Guard
      -Pro Moto Billet Rear Rack
      -Pro Circuit Muffler and Header
      -EJK Fuel Tuner
      -Sandman Case Saver and Shift Guard
      -Zeta Pro Bend Hand Guards


      Current Tires:
      Front: MotoZ Enduro - Changing out for a MT21 in the next couple weeks (if sold before will include)
      Rear: MotoZ Enduro - Probably ~500 miles left

      I have the stock muffler and header, passenger foot pegs, helmet lock, and tool kit. Comes with purchase/trade

      Clean Colorado Title in Hand
      Test Rides Cash in Hand
    • By Erik Marquez
      Much has been written about the OEM Mikuni BSR36 carb, you can jet it, tune it, tweak it, but in the end, it’s still a CV carb, with limited potential. Used on on all S and SM model DRZ's. (plus late model E bikes in the US)
      If your reading this now, you have already decide the extra HP and better throttle response of a well jetted FCR39 MX carb was worth the price. That’s the hard part.. What follows, is much easier. Installing the FCR on to a DRZ originally equipped with the Mikuni BSR36 is not hard. Though some general knowledge of motorcycles and Carbs specifically is important, with the right attitude and understanding your install will be full of stop and go as you research, learn, and ask questions. Anyone with decent mechanical ability and basic tools can perform this install.
       
      The Thumper Talk Keihin FCR39 MX carb kitfits all DRZ's having a BSR36 carb, All S and SM models, and 2007 and later E model bikes.

      The kit includes:
      - 016-925 Keihin 39mm FCR MX Carb with choke (no TPS)
      - 021-216 FCR Adapter 2 3/8", carb to S airboot
      - 021-439 Adaptor O-Ring
      - 017-262 EMN Needle
      - 021-012 Airboot adapter bolts (2)
      - P/N 13111-29F00 OEM Suzuki E Intake Manifold
      - P/N 09402-58208 OEM Suzuki Clamp
      - P/N 13685-29F00 OEM Suzuki Vacuum Port Nipple

      Carb comes standard with the following:
      - 200 Main Air Jet
      - 160 Main Jet
      - 45 Pilot Jet
      - 100 Pliot Air Jet
      - EMR Needle
       
      Prepping the new Carb and bike for install
      Remove and discard the plastic throttle wheel guard, it will interfere with fitment relevant to the frame, and really is not needed.

      Move both upper motor mounts to the left side; this allows needed clearance for the throttle wheel

      The TPS connector will not be reused with the new FCR carb, you can follow the carb end up wiring to the connector and unplug it there. Use some dielectric silicone and tape to blank off the connector, you can cut the wires there, heat shrink or tape the ends, or simple stuff the carb end of the TPS and wiring harness up under the seat, zip tie it in place and leave it. Bottom line, it is not used for this install.

      If using a vacuum operated fuel petcock like the OEM one found on the DRZ S or SM, you will need to install a vacuum nipple in the manifold. Luckily there is a spot just for this and an OEM part to install. It is P/N 13685-29F00 OEM Suzuki Vacuum Port Nipple and included in the TT Kit


      Install the jetting required for your motor modification level and riding area. Provided are four common jetting setups. For many, that’s all they will need to do, for some, additional tuning will be required. Use what is here for a base, make a post as to what your bike is doing related to jetting you do not like, and let the experts help you through the tuning.
      be descriptive, and specific.
      Include your current motor and intake mods, jetting set up, altitude and temp where you ride. mods, jetting set up, altitude and temp where you ride.

      Basic Jetting


      sea level stock exhaust or "quite,96db,corked up etc aftermarket pipe", 3x3 -

      155 main jet
      200 main air jet
      EMN needle
      clip 3
      45 pilot jet
      2 turns fuel screw
      o-ring mod

      sea level,aftermarket pipe with open muffler-

      160 main jet
      200 main air jet
      EMN needle
      clip 3
      45 pilot jet
      2 turns fuel screw
      o-ring mod

      4000-600ft,stock exhaust or "quite,q,96db,corked up etc aftermarket pipe", 3x3 -

      145 main jet
      200 main air jet
      EMP needle
      clip 3
      45 pilot jet
      2 turns fuel screw
      o-ring mod

      4000-6000ft,aftermarket pipe with open muffler-

      150 main jet
      200 main air jet
      EMP needle
      clip 3
      45 pilot jet
      2 turns fuel screw
      o-ring mod

      In addition to the above or custom jetting, an extended adjustable fuel screw is highly recommended.
      Merge Racing makes a very nice one. What I like most about it is the Injection molded knob.. stays cool when the engine is hot, for easy adjustments. And because of its T shape is easier to grab with gloved hands and make adjustments.
      If not the Fuel screw from Merge, then any of the aftermarket screws not made from aluminum. Be very careful on the removal and install of the new fuel screw.. you have a small spring, washer and rubber O-ring that sits on the screw inside the body. One or more of these part sometimes remains in the body, and comes out haphazardly on the end of the old fuel screw. Very easy to lose one or more parts.

      The Fuel needle clip position is counted from the top, flat end of the needle. The needle pictured is in clip 3 position.


      Install tips

      No need to buy new throttle cables, the stock S cables work fine.
      Attach the throttle cables with the curved one on the bottom


      Hoses are routed like this



       
       
       
      It’s really not too short. People say this all the time due to the physical measurement between old carb set up and FCRMX being different, the FCR setup is slightly shorter. The air boot is plenty long enough. The preferred technique is to put the carb in the boot first. Then pull it forward to the manifold.