Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

GPR Stabilizer Install - 07 KTM 450EXC


Canadian K

GPR V2 stabilizer - under bar

Installation on a 2007 KTM 450 EXC

gprktmstabilizercs9.jpg

Set up a comfortable work area. Position bike on a stable platform.

Secure the bottom triple clamp and fork assembly with a tie down or adjustable strap (to stop lower end from falling out when you take off the upper clamp, later on). You could also wedge a few pieces of wood under the front tire to help keep it at that height.

Remove the front head light assembly and the handlebar top clamps.

headlightoffdd9.jpg

Remove the two bolts holding the computer, signal light brace, etc. attached to the upper clamp. Carefully lower it down onto the front fender (rag wrap to contain). I put two nuts on the end of the bolts to temporarily hold all the parts together so it was easy to reassemble later.

barswiresloosepc6.jpg

I made use of two bungee cords (hanging down from easy up frame) to hold the handle-bars out of the way and relieve any stress on the cables. Remove handle bar mounts (brace the front tire to keep it straight).

toptriplelooserg6.jpg

Remove 5 upper clamp bolts & the top steering stem bolt.

Carefully insert a medium size flat head screw driver into each gap in the clamps and spread them just a little bit (<1 mm) to allow clearance for the upper clamp to rise up off the forks. Use a rubber hammer and tap the clamp upward on each side and it should start to move up. Keep tapping up and side to side, until it is off.

toptripleoffou8.jpg

Remove the stock (metal) dust cover.

· Carefully remove the dust cover seal - O ring (you will reuse it).

· Now is a good time to grease the steering head bearings using high quality water proof grease.

· Slide the (GPR) steel post mount over the steering stem neck.

· Re-install the stock dust cover seal around the lip of steering stem neck and install the new plastic (white) dust cover.

· Install the upper triple clamp, bolts & stem bolt (refer to owners manual for illustration & torque values).

ownersmanualspecbd8.jpg

Position the post mount post (pin) vertically in line with the steering stem. Slide post mount up toward the new dust cover so it is almost touching then securely tighten the 6mm allen head pinch bolt.

posttightenedia5.jpg

Mount the damper / lower bar mount assembly in the most forward holes of the upper triple clamp using the two allen head bolts. Make sure the pin is securely seated in the slot of the stabilizer arm.

gpronloosekz4.jpg

Note - Before tightening the allen bolts all the way down, ensure the top of the post pin is flush with the top of the slot in the stabilizer arm. If it is too low, partially disassemble and remove the pin. Tap the under side to move the pin further up into the collar to get the ideal pin height. Reinstall pin correctly and tighten the allen bolts firmly.

pinupclosemh7.jpg

When the bar mount bolts are tight, the top of the pin must be level with the top of the stabilizer arm. As stated earlier, the pin is press fit into the collar so it can be lightly tapped down to get it flush with the top edge of the stabilizer arm. Install handle bars and set bar position the way you like it.

gprinstallpm1.jpg

gprbarinstallxd9.jpg

Position the throttle cables so that they will not hang up on the stabilizer. I added a zip tie to hold the cables close to the bars (but not too tight). Keep it loose to let cables slide up and down. Or you can install a crossbar pad that will also help keep the throttle cables away from any pinch points.

gprbarsturnedqn6.jpg

cablescrossbarpadaj2.jpg

WARNING – for EXC head light wiring, you will need to bend the wiring harness bracket up and out a bit, so that the wires in back will stay clear of the new post mount when the bars are turned. I also used a zip tie around the wires to hold them snug and keep them away from the “pinch point.”

gprwireclearancerj3.jpg

wireharnesscloseupmu4.jpg

The wires in this area should be checked often to avoid pinch damage.

wiresfrontziptiefo0.jpg

gprwireslowst4.jpg

The last step is to make sure the front head light / number plate will fit properly now that the wire harness has been moved out a bit. You will probably need to move a few wires/connectors around the bulb socket to get it all to fit right. Check front brake cable routing, wiring, and make sure signals and head light are all working.

gprallontightlm2.jpg

headlightoncb0.jpg

That’s it.

Now it’s time to go for a ride and test out the new stabilizer.

readytoridewithgprkj9.jpg

P.S. I really like the higher bar position (especially when standing).


Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0


User Feedback


There are no comments to display.



Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


  • Similar Content

    • By dirt bikelover
      Hello everyone just looking for a new bike between a ktm 450 xcf or sx and a ktm 300 xc which one would go harder??
    • By fatpastyhead
      Hello all. 
      Just got a new(to me) 2014 KTM 450 exc and when I purchased it it was covered in chain lube but I now know the guy was trying to hide an oil leak. To say I'm pi**ed of is an understatement, but it's my own fault.
      It appears to be coming from the side sump bolt near the front sprocket. 
      I'm just wondering; are these bikes supposed to have a copper washer behind that plug? Because there isn't one. 
      If the above is not the case then could anyone tell me what it may be? Doesn't appear to be from the mid engine gasket but I don't know. 
      It takes literally a day or 2 to build to one drop. I plan on taking it out and looking but if a washer is required then I'd rather have it handy. No oil on the sump/frame guard either but it's bugging me and I worry about oil leaving the bike.
      Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
      Thanks 👌🏻
       
    • By Nicola Lonardo
      I recently picked up a 4 stroke KTM 450 and I have been having issues getting the bike to kick start. Upon further inspection I pulled the stator cover off and a ton of fuel came pouring out. After that the bike started no problem but I originally though the issue was with the petcock or float needle so I replaced both of those parts and reset the float height. I also did a pressure test on the float needle and seat to make sure fuel wasn't leaking past into the engine. A few days ago I left the petcock on and the bike flooded again even though the float needle should prevent fuel from passing through the carb. At this point I have no idea what the issue could be, any help would be greatly appreciated. 
    • By ZX10Rsilver
      Hi all 
      So my RFS developed the death rattle I've taken it apart and yes the nut was loose but my question is does the Woodruff key look ok please see pics.
       
      Thanks


    • By tg821
      I have a 2018 KTM 250 SX and I have found my way to this forum because my ktm dealer is the only one in a two hour radius and does not know a lick about their own bikes. Also all of my family and friends have never had KTM's or Husky's. 
      I race motocross and am in the Intermediate/B Class, I weight 185 pounds. 
      So I was hoping I had some KTM gear heads on here to help me answer some questions. Warning: I am about to ask a lot of information so if some threads are already created just please point me to the link.
      My main goal is kind of crazy in my mind... I need more longer wrap out time in 2nd gear but need 3rd gear to be snappy out of turns so I do not burn up my clutch.  I ask this because a lot of the tracks I ride at in Missouri have pretty good size jumps right out of a sweeper or sharp turn. I dont like to hit them in 2nd right now because I get the Ronnie mac air boner affect in the air (because 2nd gear is very snappy and short). 
      1. Does anyone have any recommended adjustments for the RED power valve spring? (turns out/turns in?) Also what is the tool/socket I need to adjust, Robertson? What size?
      2. Any recommended suspension settings other than the manual? 
      3. My manual says the bike has a Performance ignition map that can be plugged in? Is that correct or is that only for the EXC models? 
      4. What rear tire has everyone seemed to run on this bike, 120 or 110? 
      5. Hate the long silencer exhaust, Should I run the FMF Shorty or the ProCircuit Shorty? 
      6. What size rear sprocket seems to work best for motocross with this bike? 49? 
      thanks for the much needed help!