Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

GPR Stabilizer Install - 07 KTM 450EXC

Canadian K

GPR V2 stabilizer - under bar

Installation on a 2007 KTM 450 EXC


Set up a comfortable work area. Position bike on a stable platform.

Secure the bottom triple clamp and fork assembly with a tie down or adjustable strap (to stop lower end from falling out when you take off the upper clamp, later on). You could also wedge a few pieces of wood under the front tire to help keep it at that height.

Remove the front head light assembly and the handlebar top clamps.


Remove the two bolts holding the computer, signal light brace, etc. attached to the upper clamp. Carefully lower it down onto the front fender (rag wrap to contain). I put two nuts on the end of the bolts to temporarily hold all the parts together so it was easy to reassemble later.


I made use of two bungee cords (hanging down from easy up frame) to hold the handle-bars out of the way and relieve any stress on the cables. Remove handle bar mounts (brace the front tire to keep it straight).


Remove 5 upper clamp bolts & the top steering stem bolt.

Carefully insert a medium size flat head screw driver into each gap in the clamps and spread them just a little bit (<1 mm) to allow clearance for the upper clamp to rise up off the forks. Use a rubber hammer and tap the clamp upward on each side and it should start to move up. Keep tapping up and side to side, until it is off.


Remove the stock (metal) dust cover.

· Carefully remove the dust cover seal - O ring (you will reuse it).

· Now is a good time to grease the steering head bearings using high quality water proof grease.

· Slide the (GPR) steel post mount over the steering stem neck.

· Re-install the stock dust cover seal around the lip of steering stem neck and install the new plastic (white) dust cover.

· Install the upper triple clamp, bolts & stem bolt (refer to owners manual for illustration & torque values).


Position the post mount post (pin) vertically in line with the steering stem. Slide post mount up toward the new dust cover so it is almost touching then securely tighten the 6mm allen head pinch bolt.


Mount the damper / lower bar mount assembly in the most forward holes of the upper triple clamp using the two allen head bolts. Make sure the pin is securely seated in the slot of the stabilizer arm.


Note - Before tightening the allen bolts all the way down, ensure the top of the post pin is flush with the top of the slot in the stabilizer arm. If it is too low, partially disassemble and remove the pin. Tap the under side to move the pin further up into the collar to get the ideal pin height. Reinstall pin correctly and tighten the allen bolts firmly.


When the bar mount bolts are tight, the top of the pin must be level with the top of the stabilizer arm. As stated earlier, the pin is press fit into the collar so it can be lightly tapped down to get it flush with the top edge of the stabilizer arm. Install handle bars and set bar position the way you like it.



Position the throttle cables so that they will not hang up on the stabilizer. I added a zip tie to hold the cables close to the bars (but not too tight). Keep it loose to let cables slide up and down. Or you can install a crossbar pad that will also help keep the throttle cables away from any pinch points.



WARNING – for EXC head light wiring, you will need to bend the wiring harness bracket up and out a bit, so that the wires in back will stay clear of the new post mount when the bars are turned. I also used a zip tie around the wires to hold them snug and keep them away from the “pinch point.”



The wires in this area should be checked often to avoid pinch damage.



The last step is to make sure the front head light / number plate will fit properly now that the wire harness has been moved out a bit. You will probably need to move a few wires/connectors around the bulb socket to get it all to fit right. Check front brake cable routing, wiring, and make sure signals and head light are all working.



That’s it.

Now it’s time to go for a ride and test out the new stabilizer.


P.S. I really like the higher bar position (especially when standing).

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

User Feedback

There are no comments to display.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

  • Similar Content

    • By talkingrain
      created from 2014 KTM XCF seat shell, should fit various SX and XC models from 2013 to 2015, do your own research.  seat and cover are in perfect condition, just needs a to be wiped clean, no rips, tears.  duct tape in photo is overlap from bump install. bump was made from renthal crossbar pad and has good feel and durability.
      $50.00 OBO, buyer pays shipping to lower 48, west coast preferred.
      text or pm with questions.
    • By ktm300.007
      Noticed that my 2007 ktm 300 was bottoming out with no real power and looked at the reeds(Vforce3) and the petals had a chip in one of them. I bought some new petals off of a ktm dealer and used them for about two hours bbefore the exact same thing happened. What could the cause be?

    • By deanmellor
      My top end went on m 98 cr 125, the needle bearing clip came out and broke apart and shrapnel got everywhere and blew it up. I cleaned out the top end and washed out the crank with the bike upside down. the bike starts up great and seems to run fine but im getting a weird di-di-di-di-di-di-di noise coming from the motor. i tried adjust the power valve and tightening everything but the noise is still there. Here is a link to a video where you can hear the sound. It gets louder as rpm's get higher and at really low rpm barely idling it goes away. I am pretty new to bikes and 2 strokes so any help would be appreciated.
    • By RidingWithStyle
      In need of Cycra Handguards (probends) for my bike. Need 1 1/8 clamp size for renthal twinwalls. Message me if you have any for sale at a good price! 
    • By Reeve Harper
      Hi, I have a 2016 Husqvarna tc85. It has 95.4 hours on it and it was running beautifully. But on my last ride it started playing up, it lost all its top end power and sounded like someone had their hand over the exhaust, but the bottom end power is completely fine. The bike is well looked after and well loved. I race it in enduro and trail ride it, it is stock engine wise. I was thinking the power valve might be stuck?  Can anyone please help? Thanks