Core Moto has stormed on the scene with their new stainless braided brake line kits. We have worked with them since the beginning and have used their lines on several of our builds as well as selling 100's of them to our customers. When we get asked for brake line recommendation, we always mention Core Moto First. Core Moto SS performance brake lines are made in the USA using the highest quality materials and machinery available. We strive to make the best quality product on the market and are constantly looking for ways to make our brake lines better. The level of quality materials and processes used to make each Core Moto brake or clutch line is felt directly by the person operating the motorcycle they were installed on. Core Moto brake lines are the most customizable brake lines on the market, ensuring you have a truly unique product that will stand out from the rest.
Core Moto brake lines are made in the USA and have a LIFETIME WARRANTY against leaks, breaks, ruptures and any type of failure of function. Core Moto lines are made custom to each order and usually ready to ship same day. Why Choose Stainless over Rubber hoses? OEM rubber hoses expand and swell, especially under extreme braking conditions. This expansion results in what is often described as a spongy feel or brake fade. Most motorcycle manufacturers recommend that your OEM rubber brake lines be replaced every 4 years when used under normal conditions. Core Moto Performance lines are good for the life of the motorcycle. Core Moto lines do not expand under pressure or fatigue. All braking input is transmitted from the master cylinder directly to the calipers, giving you complete control, feel and feedback from the final point in the braking system. Total brake response and performance is improved with this often overlooked yet simple modification. INCLUDE IN EACH KIT
Core Moto brake line retail packaging. Core Moto brake lines with proper lengths, banjo bend angles, mounting grommets and colors according to your model and order details. New low profile stainless steel banjo bolts with lightened heads. New copper crush washers. Installation and brake bleeding guide. Core Moto stickers.
its a 2007 xcf 250. I rebuilt the front caliper after seeing how horrible the rear was. Prior to this the front brake worked perfectly fine. But this bike was used and very neglected.
I rebuilt the caliper, reassembled everything as it was, filled the reservoir with fluid, and began the bleeding process. I began just pumping the brake, holding it, opening the bleed screw on the caliper then closing it, and repeating this. I probably refilled the reservoir a dozen times or so forcing fluid through the system. Never built pressure though.
So then i tried back bleeding it. I forced fluid in from the caliper and pushed it back through the system. initially i got a &%$#@! ton of bubbles and air. But it still wouldnt build pressure. Again, i repeated this so many times i probably had to drain the reservoir 5 or 6 times.
I still can't get pressure in the brake. there are no leaks anywhere. The pistons aren't even moving. I have no idea what else to do now. It worked fine before any of this and i don't get why i suddenly can't get the air out. Spent 3 hours bleeding the system and got no where.
I just installed the OE front brake micro-switch on my 2014 XC-W. It's stock switch on the EXC and all of the front brake perch part numbers are common between the XC-W and EXC.
As you can see in the picture, the brake lever comes nowhere near engaging the switch. Even with the lever adjusted fully away from the bar (which would be too far for me to reach comfortably), there is still air between the lever and the switch. Obviously, applying the front brake pulls the lever further from the switch.
I know I can use a hydraulic banjo switch but I already bought this OE switch and I wonder if there's an adjustment I'm over looking?
The picture below is the brake lever at rest.
Built from billet aluminum and machined for a precision fit with a stainless steel pin. This clevis will eliminate the OEM play in the brake pedal from the manufactures, resulting in better pedal feel and more precise braking. Anodized in OEM colors for that factory look and feel.
My sons been complaining the last couple races that his brakes are little on the long side and wants me to upgrade them. I've ridden his bike before and the brakes are under par in comparison to my KX450 or my other sons KTM 65SX. I don't want to spend a bunch of money unless it's really a need so these are the options I've come up with. I'm looking for some feedback from anyone thats been down this road.
1. replace the brakes pads with a more aggressive pad & braided line $100
2. swap to the dual piston setup from a crf450R and Applied racing bracket total cost about $188 with new pads
3. oversized 240mm rotor, new pads and adapter $190
4. oversized 240mm rotor, applied racing adapter, dual piston caliper from crf450r, pads and braided lines $450 or so. (not really an option lol but would be nice)
The cheapest is option 1 but will it really solve the issue or only be a bandaid and then later I'll end up spending more money.
Any input would be great.