Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

How to get a non running bike running again


thejunkman

So you have a bike that is not running. Maybe it is a bike that you have had for years and it has just been sitting or it is a bike your looking at for sale but the owner states "ran when parked" meaning, it doesn't run now. As a matter of fact the latter is how you can generally get a great deal on a bike and with this article and video you can take advantage of that non running bikes low price.

Typically the reason a bike was running and now isn't is usually fairly simple. Most problems can be traced to the fuel system, probably causes is fuel was left in the system creating a varnish like substance when the lighter elements of the fuel flashed off. This leaves the small passageways clogged or plugged resulting in inconsistent or no fuel flow. There also could be minor ignition issues but usually that is rare, more on that later. Lets get back to basics.

Click on the Getting a non running bike running video to see an in depth video of the procedure outlined below:

Step 1

Evaluate the bike, is it missing crucial parts for it to run? If not start the dis-assembly for cleaning and inspection this includes the fuel tank itself. If it is missing parts, locate or source the missing parts before going further as this will minimize delays further in the process.

Step 2

Fully disassemble the carburetor and fuel shut off. These are the most common places that the problems will originate as well as where most of the debris preventing proper fuel flow and metering will be found.

Step 3

Clean, clean, clean, and more cleaning. Carburetor dip is a good idea for the carb body and other related parts. Just remember to remove any rubber or fiber parts as carburetor dip may "eat" or dissolve them.

Step 4

While your carburetor parts are soaking check out the ignition components. Replace the spark plug, it is cheap, and will rule out a potentially faulty plug of unknown condition, refer to a service manual for specific testing if you have a "no spark" condition. Most "no spark" conditions can be traced to a kill switch wire grounding out at the handlebar or somewhere along the harness.

Step 5

Reassemble the carburetor returning all the settings like the float height, jetting specs, and air/fuel screw (depending on which it has) to the factory specs found in the manual. Re-install the tank and fuel shut off. Attach the fuel lines use clamps when necessary. Fill the tank with a little bit of fuel open the tap and check for leaks and/or a flooding carburetor.

Step 6

If the previous steps were done properly attempt to start the bike. Be sure your in neutral and have your hand on the throttle and kill switch for safety so you can shut down the bike should something happen.


Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0


User Feedback


There are no comments to display.



Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


  • Similar Content

    • By Dean William
      So, I'm new to this and dirt bikes in general. I did small engine repair in high school, so I'm not full on retarded in that respect. But I digress.
      My dad recently have me a 1980 Honda XL250s Dual sport bike. It's got the 6v system, and goofy 23" wheel. When I got it, it had sat for a couple years, but nonetheless, I had it running in no time. Then a month later, it was fine tuned with the correct filter, carb rebuild, etc. So it runs fine, no problems there. So now I'm onto electrical; blinkers, horn, things to make it road legal. So after I bought a brand new 6v battery, charged it, I was going through the lights. Headlight runs off stator, so that's fine, tail light runs off both, that's fine, turn signal switches are good, but lights stay solid. Horn switch doesn't work, but I haven't tested the horn itself. Most instrument lights work, but there may be an issue because I used LEDs for that, and when I hit the turn signal, the light comes on, but shuts off neutral light.
      Today I got all 4 signals to light up, after I grounded the rear lights. But now they don't come on with just the switch on. Only when the bike runs. And I'm only getting 3v at the battery when it's running.
      I feel like I just made it worse when I "fixed" the rear turn signals.
       
      And to make things worse, my 6v trickle charger doesn't work anymore.
       
    • By Erik Marquez
      Much has been written about the OEM Mikuni BSR36 carb, you can jet it, tune it, tweak it, but in the end, it’s still a CV carb, with limited potential. Used on on all S and SM model DRZ's. (plus late model E bikes in the US)
      If your reading this now, you have already decide the extra HP and better throttle response of a well jetted FCR39 MX carb was worth the price. That’s the hard part.. What follows, is much easier. Installing the FCR on to a DRZ originally equipped with the Mikuni BSR36 is not hard. Though some general knowledge of motorcycles and Carbs specifically is important, with the right attitude and understanding your install will be full of stop and go as you research, learn, and ask questions. Anyone with decent mechanical ability and basic tools can perform this install.
       
      The Thumper Talk Keihin FCR39 MX carb kitfits all DRZ's having a BSR36 carb, All S and SM models, and 2007 and later E model bikes.

      The kit includes:
      - 016-925 Keihin 39mm FCR MX Carb with choke (no TPS)
      - 021-216 FCR Adapter 2 3/8", carb to S airboot
      - 021-439 Adaptor O-Ring
      - 017-262 EMN Needle
      - 021-012 Airboot adapter bolts (2)
      - P/N 13111-29F00 OEM Suzuki E Intake Manifold
      - P/N 09402-58208 OEM Suzuki Clamp
      - P/N 13685-29F00 OEM Suzuki Vacuum Port Nipple

      Carb comes standard with the following:
      - 200 Main Air Jet
      - 160 Main Jet
      - 45 Pilot Jet
      - 100 Pliot Air Jet
      - EMR Needle
       
      Prepping the new Carb and bike for install
      Remove and discard the plastic throttle wheel guard, it will interfere with fitment relevant to the frame, and really is not needed.

      Move both upper motor mounts to the left side; this allows needed clearance for the throttle wheel

      The TPS connector will not be reused with the new FCR carb, you can follow the carb end up wiring to the connector and unplug it there. Use some dielectric silicone and tape to blank off the connector, you can cut the wires there, heat shrink or tape the ends, or simple stuff the carb end of the TPS and wiring harness up under the seat, zip tie it in place and leave it. Bottom line, it is not used for this install.

      If using a vacuum operated fuel petcock like the OEM one found on the DRZ S or SM, you will need to install a vacuum nipple in the manifold. Luckily there is a spot just for this and an OEM part to install. It is P/N 13685-29F00 OEM Suzuki Vacuum Port Nipple and included in the TT Kit


      Install the jetting required for your motor modification level and riding area. Provided are four common jetting setups. For many, that’s all they will need to do, for some, additional tuning will be required. Use what is here for a base, make a post as to what your bike is doing related to jetting you do not like, and let the experts help you through the tuning.
      be descriptive, and specific.
      Include your current motor and intake mods, jetting set up, altitude and temp where you ride. mods, jetting set up, altitude and temp where you ride.

      Basic Jetting


      sea level stock exhaust or "quite,96db,corked up etc aftermarket pipe", 3x3 -

      155 main jet
      200 main air jet
      EMN needle
      clip 3
      45 pilot jet
      2 turns fuel screw
      o-ring mod

      sea level,aftermarket pipe with open muffler-

      160 main jet
      200 main air jet
      EMN needle
      clip 3
      45 pilot jet
      2 turns fuel screw
      o-ring mod

      4000-600ft,stock exhaust or "quite,q,96db,corked up etc aftermarket pipe", 3x3 -

      145 main jet
      200 main air jet
      EMP needle
      clip 3
      45 pilot jet
      2 turns fuel screw
      o-ring mod

      4000-6000ft,aftermarket pipe with open muffler-

      150 main jet
      200 main air jet
      EMP needle
      clip 3
      45 pilot jet
      2 turns fuel screw
      o-ring mod

      In addition to the above or custom jetting, an extended adjustable fuel screw is highly recommended.
      Merge Racing makes a very nice one. What I like most about it is the Injection molded knob.. stays cool when the engine is hot, for easy adjustments. And because of its T shape is easier to grab with gloved hands and make adjustments.
      If not the Fuel screw from Merge, then any of the aftermarket screws not made from aluminum. Be very careful on the removal and install of the new fuel screw.. you have a small spring, washer and rubber O-ring that sits on the screw inside the body. One or more of these part sometimes remains in the body, and comes out haphazardly on the end of the old fuel screw. Very easy to lose one or more parts.

      The Fuel needle clip position is counted from the top, flat end of the needle. The needle pictured is in clip 3 position.


      Install tips

      No need to buy new throttle cables, the stock S cables work fine.
      Attach the throttle cables with the curved one on the bottom


      Hoses are routed like this



       
       
       
      It’s really not too short. People say this all the time due to the physical measurement between old carb set up and FCRMX being different, the FCR setup is slightly shorter. The air boot is plenty long enough. The preferred technique is to put the carb in the boot first. Then pull it forward to the manifold.
       
       
    • By Eastern Sierra_thump
      1997 Honda Xr650L. I was changing out my turn signals. After each one I tested the turn signal...all good up till the 3rd turn signal. After the 4th and final turn signal was changed out everything is dead except my headlight. Brake light, turn signals, horn, dash indicators lights (except for headlight indicator) and rear light are dead. I check my fuses and all are good in the fuse area by the battery. Is there another fuse I’m missing?
      everything was working perfectly just before. I had a turn signal broken (bulbs are OEM....I do not have LEDs) and was trying to repair and change them all to the same style. I ordered pen replacement signals. 
    • By Taylor R. Boehnlein
      Trying to figure out if electrical is working/needs replaced.
      Generator tested 263 ohms, pulse tested at 99 ohms.  Ignition coil primary tested at 1.7 ohms and the secondary at ~60 ohms w/ the spark plug cap.
      CDI seems to be the issue, but the results almost seem too bad to be true.  The only resistance I found was the Green to Black/Red at 147.77x200k ohms, Black/Red to Black/White Kill at 152.2x200k ohms, and Blue/Yellow to Green at 150.1x200k ohms .  The OEM manual does say that a specific tester is needed, but that seems like a farce.
      Any idea what might be going on?  CDI's are a little pricey and I would like to not replace unless needed.