Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

HOW TO: Keep Your Cables In Fine Working Order


FiftySeven

Required Tools: Cable lube, cable lubing tool, 8mm T-handle or socket, 10mm box-end wrench.

CLUTCH CABLES

STEP 1: Start by spinning the quick adjuster on the clutch perch inward to increase the amount of cable free-play. By doing this you will reduce the overall tension of the cable, making the process of pulling the cable out of the clutch perch a snap.

STEP 2: Now that the cable has plenty of free-play (slack), align the slot in the adjuster with the slot in the perch so that the cable will be able to slide through the clutch perch. With one hand, grab the cable and pull it in the direction away from the perch. With your other hand, pull the clutch lever back to the bar and release it quickly, snapping it out. A couple snaps of the clutch lever may be necessary to pop the cable free. After sliding the cable through the lined up slots and out of the perch, the ball at the end of the cable should easily pull out of the clutch lever.

STEP 3: Install your cable-lubing tool onto the end of the cable between the cable housing and the cable ball. Your cable-lubing tool will have a larger diameter hole on one end, which is designed to butt up against the cable housing. Now that the lubing tool is in place, stick the cable lube spray nozzle into the hole on the lubing tool and spray lube until you see it run out of the cable housing at the opposite end of the cable near the clutch cover.

STEP 4: Now that your clutch cable is nicely lubed, the final step is to put the assembly back together. Start by pushing the ball back into the lever. Next, be sure that the slots on the quick adjuster and the perch are still lined up, and slide the cable back through the perch. To easily get the cable housing back into its home on the clutch perch, follow the same procedure that you used to pop it out. Again, this is done by pulling the cable in the direction away from the perch and snapping the clutch lever until it pops into place. Finally, turn out your quick adjuster to take out the free-play until it feels right for you.

THROTTLE CABLES

A push-pull style four-stroke throttle is used in this example. The same principles will apply when lubing the throttle cable of a two-stroke, but only one cable will be present, making the process even easier.

STEP 1: Start by using a 10mm box-end wrench to loosen the adjuster screw located on the outer side of the throttle housing.

STEP 2: On a four-stroke, be sure to pay close attention during this step to how the two cables are routed through the housings and attached to the throttle tube.

Remove the two 8mm bolts that hold the two halves of the throttle housing together. Pull the housing halves apart to expose the cables, again paying close attention to their routing. Next, pull the cable balls out of the throttle tube. It’s usually best to leave the throttle tube and housing on the bar during this step as you may not have enough free-play in your cables to slide it off the end of the bar. Forcing it off could cause binding and/or damage to the cables.

STEP 3: Now that the cables are disconnected from the throttle tube, pull out the throttle guide (present only on a four-stroke), and remove each cable from their housing. Now that your cables are completely removed from the throttle housing, follow the same steps as found in “STEP 3” of the clutch cable procedure for the lubing of each cable. Note: Before spraying the lube it is best to remove the cables from the carburettor to prevent the excess lube from settling on the diaphram.

STEP 4: The final step is to reassemble the throttle mechanism. Lay the first cable over the throttle guide and slide the guide into the housing. The guide should slide with little effort and will butt up against the throttle housing. Repeat this process with the second cable by laying the cable over the cable guide first, and then slide the guide into the second half of the housing. Now that the two sides of the housing are pressed back together, the cables must be rerouted and fastened to the throttle tube. The cable on the right side of the throttle housing (closest to the brake reservoir) will wrap around the side of the throttle tube. The cable on the left side will wrap around the opposite side of the housing. Secure the housing halves back together with your 8mm, but leave them somewhat loose. Push the throttle tube until it bottoms out into the bar end and then back it out just a fraction of an inch so that the tube does not bind up against the end of the bar. Once you find the proper placement of the tube, securely tighten the 8mm bolts. Finally, adjust the free-play, if necessary, out of the throttle cable with your 10mm box end on the throttle cable adjusting bolts to your liking.

Sign in to follow this  


User Feedback

Recommended Comments

There are no comments to display.



Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


  • Similar Content

    • By Timo2824
      Aluminum wrap around handguards with plastic shields. They are different from the regular D-Flex guards due to a longer stock for more hand/lever clearance, more sophisticated bends, larger plastic shields, and bar mounts that have a lowered section for cable routing. 
      Official Description:
      The Tusk D-flex Pro handguards are the strongest and best protecting handguards that Tusk offers. The tough, tempered aluminum guard is designed with a large bend for lever clearance and plenty of room for your hands. The large plastic shields are very durable and can easily be replaced. The hand guard kit comes with aluminum bars, plastic hand shields and bar mounts for 1 1/8" or 7/8" handlebars. When in need of quality tools or parts for your motorcycle, ATV, and UTV think Tusk.
      The Tusk D-Flex Pro Handguards feature replaceable aluminum bars and plastic shields.
      Designed with a large bend that provides exceptional room for hands and levers.
      Standard mounting is for 1 1/8" or 7/8" bars.
      Package includes: 1-pair of Tusk Aluminum Handguards with 1 1/8" or 7/8" bar hardware and 1-pair of Tusk Plastic Handguard Shields.
      For Dirt Bikes only.
    • By Bryan Bosch
      Clutch Levers
      The primary advantage of this lever is a 50% reduction in actuation force. This means less fatigue, less arm pump and more endurance especially during high intensity race conditions. A shorter than stock lever length allows a one or two finger operation enabling you to squeeze the lever to the bar without releasing your grip with the rest of your fingers. Depending on the mounting position you employ, you can even go for a three finger grab when necessary. The ball on the lever end meets AMA safety rule requirements and provides a comfortable grip reference for your fingers; it also helps prevent accidental release while traversing rough terrain at high speed. The width of the lever distributes the contact pressure over a greater surface area on your fingers reducing load concentrations that induce blistering.
       
      Brake Levers
      Complete your handle bar controls with a matching Brembo brake lever. This lever utilizes the stock pivot geometry so the action is the same as a stock brake lever. The difference is that the brake lever is the same "shorty" length as the CLever clutch levers and has the same ergonomic feel of the wide blade. These features allow you to use a one or two fingered grip on the lever with either a short or long reach. You can maintain a tight grip on your bars using your remaining fingers with no danger of trapping them in between the blade and the bar in a panic grab situation.

    • By Bryan Bosch
      Ride Engineering is the first company to offer a way to mount the Showa steering stabilizer onto another brand. This MX style stabilizer was originally developed by Ricky Carmichael in his days as a factory Honda rider. Today you will find one behind the front number plate of many top level national pros (this includes Ryan Dungey). Many GNCC/Enduro/Desert riders are also switching from the typical "Desert style" steering dampener to this less restrictive, easily installed device. This simple bolt-on bracket kit is available for all KTMs complete with mounting instructions (Upper and lower brackets included). Showa damper sold separately.
    • By Lancedima
      Just got a new perch , clutch cable is good but the hotstart cable is short just a little , and i think I have the motion cable adjusted all the way out , ideas on how i can get just a little slack so I can get the ball in the lever ?how much force should I have to use to pull it in place ? 





    • By LuizSNeto
      SUB Mount / Complete Stabilizer Kit / when using stock triple clamps   
      (P/N: DS-SUB-7330-01)
       
      Photo may not be your exact model but depicts the same mounting configuration. This kit is designed to be used with the stock Triple clamps and over-sized handlebars. If your model comes with std diameter bars, you'll need to change to oversize bars or use our "Bar reducers", both available here online. We've machined this SUB mount to give you 2 possible handlebar mounting positions. Position 1 is stock, position 2 is 10mm forward of the stock bar position. Step by step pictured instructions are included along with all the necessary hardware.

      "SUB" mount stands for Stabilizer Under Bars, originally designed for raising the bars. These kits are designed for use with Oversize bars. "Bar reducers" are available as an option, to convert the kit to standard diameter bars, should that be desired. This concept allows more room for other equipment such as, Global Positioning Systems(GPS) or Enduro/Rally computers and yet still retain the quick access for adjusting the stabilizer. This is also good for the taller rider who wants his bars a little higher, as it raises the bar location approximately 11-25mm, depending on the model of bike. In some cases, you might consider a lower bend handlebar bend at the same time, unless you are trying to achieve a higher bar height along with your stabilizer installation. We can also help you with other handlebar choices to match your desired setup, as we have a full selection of handlebars to choose from on this website. The SUB mounts are only available on certain models based on the physical limitations of mounting in this area. Each SUB mount comes complete with all necessary parts, hardware and "Step by Step" pictured instructions. If you have any questions, feel free to call or email us. The Photo attached here may be a generic photo to show you the basic components in the kit, but may not be showing the exact kit for your specific bike.
×