Jump to content

How To Properly Maintain Your Rekluse Auto Clutch


Spider Tech

Rekluse auto clutches are high-performance clutches that offer riders many benefits ranging from improved control to increased power transmission; however, like any clutch, it is imperative that they are adequately maintained to ensure long clutch life. Rekluse auto clutches are not overly complicated devices, but they do differ from regular clutches, which means they have different maintenance requirements. In this article, we’ll outline  auto clutch maintenance inspections and procedures so next time you inspect your clutch, you’ll be confident and ready to tackle the job.

For starters, it’s important to note the key difference between a Rekluse auto clutch and a regular clutch. While Rekluse clutches have many performance enhancing benefits, the main difference between an auto clutch and a regular clutch is the incorporation of Rekluse’s EXP disk. In summary, the EXP disk is the mechanism that allows the clutch to engage and disengage automatically as a function of engine RPM. The EXP disk is the key component within a Rekluse auto clutch and is a crucial point for inspections.

Don't have an auto clutch for your bike yet? Find one here!

1591122828_RADIUSXCLUTCH(DDS)RMS-6313083(EXP).thumb.jpg.d07de3493ffffb1c3448aa76911012fd.jpg

The EXP disk is the key component to Rekluse auto clutches and will be part of auto clutch maintenance. Read on for all the key maintenance details.

Click here for our complete guide on everything you need to know about the auto clutch!

Maintenance items within this article are broken into two categories: regular maintenance, and periodic maintenance. Regular maintenance are the maintenance items that are essential to perform frequently and ensure you get the most out of your clutch. Periodic maintenance are the maintenance items that are important, but occur less frequently. Periodic maintenance tasks require partial disassembly, whereas most regular maintenance items are performed before operating the machine.

1467478184_RekluseAutoClutchMaintenance.jpg.d64046263291ab06f5a455e5e6ddf625.jpg

We'll cover regular maintenance and periodic maintenance, which may require different levels of disassembly.

Regular Maintenance

Checking Free Play Gain

The most important functional check that can be performed to ensure a Rekluse auto clutch performs reliably throughout its life is to check its free play gain. This check should be performed every time before the machine is ridden. Free play gain that is set incorrectly can result in degraded clutch performance and life. Too little free play gain can result in clutch slip and too much free play gain can result in clutch drag.

Checking free play gain is a verification method to assess the installed gap. The “installed gap” is a term used to describe the amount of free space between the clutch pack and pressure plate. The free space is critical because it is what allows the clutch to spin freely until the engagement RPM is reached and the EXP disk expands to engage the clutch fully.

Free play gain can be checked using two methods, “the rubber band method” and “the hand method.” Comprehensive instructions on how to check and adjust free play gain can be found in the videos below and in the installation manual. A complete collection of Rekluse support videos can be found HERE.

1544436574_FreePlayGain_Rubber2.PNG.80b18e3ef3282e8d425c6d7f00adcb6e.PNG   100004589_FreePlayGain_Hand.PNG.60ce3ddf5c0145060f5c33a652cc0ffa.PNG   

Checking free play gain is a standard practice with Rekluse auto clutches and is a key to ensuring long life and proper performance. It can be done with the supplied rubber band at first to build an understanding, then done by hand once the user feels comfortable.

Rubber band and hand methods

In both procedures, the bike is warmed up, running, and in neutral.

  • The next step is to take play out of the clutch actuation system by squeezing the clutch lever, whether cable or hydraulic so that the pressure plate springs are on the verge of being compressed. The “hand method,” is done by squeezing the lever and feeling for resistance from the pressure plate, and the “rubber band method” is done by wrapping the supplied rubber band around the handlebar and securing it to the clutch lever. The picture below shows the correct way to secure the rubber band.
     
  • Once the slack is taken out of the clutch system, quickly rev the engine up to 5000 - 7000 RPM (½ to ¾ throttle). The clutch lever should recede toward the handlebar. Observe the amount of clutch lever movement at the end of the clutch lever. The amount the clutch lever moves is the free play gain.
     
  • Repeat the revving procedure a couple more times to confirm that free play gain is consistent. Be sure to let the engine return all the way to idle before revving the engine again.
     
  • For most machines, the correct amount of free play gain is ⅛ inch but can be up to ¼” on select machines. Refer to your installation manual for specific free play gain specifications.
     
  • If the free play gain falls outside of spec, adjustments to the installed gap should be made before riding the machine. For instructions on how to adjust the installed gap, consult the installation manual provided with your auto clutch.
     

 

 

Appropriate Oil

Using a suitable oil is key to ensuring peak auto clutch performance. Rekluse has recently developed its own line of oils for street and dirt motorcycle applications and has recommendations on alternatives. Learn more about Rekluse Factory Formulated Oils HERE.

  •  Dirt Bikes - Rekluse clutch systems are designed to work with OEM recommended oils, specifically those that meet JASO MA or MA2 standards. In-house oil testing has repeatedly shown that clutch performance is maximized with oils explicitly designed for wet-clutch applications.

1577503895_OffroadOilGlamorShot-2.jpg.8accec645a306cc2294e513b4022a055.jpg

  • There are some oils Rekluse does NOT recommend which are JASO-MB oils and automotive oils. JASO-MB oils are not designed for wet-clutches, and automotive oils may contain friction modifiers that negatively affect clutch performance.
     
  •  Street Bikes - Rekluse recommends its Factory Formulated Oils, to use the OEM’s recommended oils, or any high-quality primary oil.

Break-in Procedure

Any time a new Rekluse auto clutch is installed or rebuilt it is imperative to follow the break-in procedure outlined in the installation manual. The break-in procedure is essential for a couple reasons. First, to ensure proper and smooth EXP disk operation, and second, to ensure the clutch components gradually mate to one another. Proper break-in ultimately allows the clutch to create the most friction during engagement and efficiently transfer power to the ground. A series of roll-on starts are used to break-in Rekluse auto clutches.

631925533_BreakIn1.PNG.456fd5fc45af266fdb7e45a96f27465f.PNG

Be sure to follow the break-in procedure outlined in the installation manual that came with your clutch. This is key to performance and durability!

Re-check Free Play Gain

Once a Rekluse auto clutch has been broken in it is important that the free play gain is re-checked. As parts mate to one another during break-in, it is possible the installed gap will change and require adjustment.

Regular Oil Changes

Clutch performance and longevity depend on oil quality. Dirty or degraded oil can easily and quickly increase clutch wear rates. To ensure your clutch operates optimally, Rekluse recommends following your machines OEM specified oil change schedule.

Periodic Maintenance and Wear Signs

In-depth instructions for checking and servicing Rekluse auto clutches can be found within the supplied installation manual as well as online. Generally speaking, aside from the additional checks and inspections of the EXP disk, clutch inspections and servicing tasks are very similar to regular clutches.

894127158_RekluseSupport.PNG.5739b4cd39c3f2ffbb0b50cc4fb4e397.PNG

The Rekluse website has a complete archive of support documents. Click the image above to find support material for your product and application.

Periodic maintenance should be performed per the schedule shown below. The “light” usage range is based on an average rider’s moderate use. The “Heavy” inspection range is based on riding in extreme environments or riding conditions.

285379398_MeaintenanceTable.PNG.032ae7bb75055969940354d13d66a4ca.PNG

Use this table as a general guideline to maintenance intervals based on riding style and conditions for the maintenance practices below . As always, each person's situation will vary, so be sure to be sure to perform maintenance as necessary.

The following information is provided to highlight essential maintenance inspections and to provide an overview of periodic maintenance activities.

EXP Disk Inspection

 

Measure the EXP Disk thickness

  •  The thickness of the EXP disk should be measured across the friction pads and compared to the specifications provided in the installation manual.

1442780843_EXPmeasurecorrect.JPG.4dbec90725f9fe6178ab82642992b893.JPG

Measure the thickness of your EXP disk on the friction pad and compare to the spec in your Rekluse product manual.

  • If measurements are outside of spec, the EXP bases and Teflon pads should be replaced.

Test the EXP Wedges

  • From the inside of the EXP disk, push a pair of wedges opposite one another outward. Once fully extended, release the wedges and observe how they retract. The wedges should return smoothly to their original position. 

1430244849_RetractedEXPwedge.JPG.51c2ace68fe20816d7682df05528e8e1.JPG  608678497_EXPwedgepushedoutcloseup.JPG.b28578c65321372288f1bea5a40f63ee.JPG 

With the EXP disk removed from your machine, push the wedges outward, then release. They should return quickly and smoothly. Consider replacing if there is any stiction or notchiness.

  • If any of the wedges stick, the EXP bases and Teflon pads may need to be replaced.

EXP Disk Visual Inspections

  • Inspect the EXP tabs that engage with the clutch basket tangs for signs of hammering and deformation.
  • Check that all friction pads bonded to the EXP plates are in place.
  • Ensure the friction pads are not glazed over. They should appear almost black and have a somewhat rough surface. Pads that are glazed over will have a smooth and shiny appearance. If any glazed pads are encountered the EXP base should be replaced.

2072881179_GoodEXP.thumb.jpg.2f07e3e38a9f5cb67e0f4426b28fdebe.jpg  508603828_GlazedEXPfrictionpad.JPG.27a4d5eb49c1262d4892ffc13379b93e.JPG 

The first photo shows a new friction pad and the second photo shows a worn friction pad. A worn friction pad indicates the EXP bases should be replaced.

  • Check the EXP assembly for discoloration. Discoloration may be a sign that the clutch overheated. If overheating occurred, the bases and wedges may need to be replaced.

With the EXP Disk Disassembled

  • Check the ramps in each EXP base. The ramps are the part of the EXP base that engages with the Teflon pads and allows the wedges to slide in and out of the disk assembly.
  • Ramps that have machining marks or are slightly polished are normal. Ramps with indentations or raised burrs are abnormal, and the EXP base should be replaced.

1058165243_GoodEXPbaseramps-machinemarks.jpg.9641528c0c7f76faa010c4fcdc7502dd.jpg  Good-EXP-base-ramps---polished.jpg.de99d8d88119109bd76712c19e0f487a.jpg 

Notice the worn out ramps on the EXP base in the first photo versus the ramps on the new EXP base in the second photo. This is a sign it's time to replace the EXP bases.

  • Check the Teflon pads that reside in the wedges. The Teflon pads should be defect free and sit slightly above the wedge pocket. The Teflon pads can sometimes fall out when the EXP disk is disassembled, so be sure that they are all accounted for before reassembly.
  • Any time the EXP bases are replaced, it is highly recommended that the Teflon pads are replaced as well for best performance.

1576414259_Teflonpads.jpg.1741031c9760ac7905da311ce0521cae.jpg

 

The Teflon pads that sit in the wedges are the contact points for the ramps on the EXP bases. These should also be inspected for wear and replaced as necessary, especially when the EXP bases are being replaced!

Drive Plate Inspections

  • Check all drive plates for signs of excess heat buildup by looking for discoloration. Drive plates appearing purple, blue, or black can be an indication that excess heat was built up.

1596315411_Driveplatecomparisons.jpg.604ec57c2b19ff7d03085c05b0310c3a.jpg

This example shows what coloring to look for on the drive plates to know if they've been subject to overheating, and if so, how much.

Friction Disk Inspection

  • Check all friction disks for signs of glazing. The friction disks will appear black and rough under normal circumstances. Glazed friction disks will appear smooth and shiny once oil is removed from them.

Fricton-Disk-Tab.jpg.953fe7736d756623ff235f4ffac30bad.jpg   1925414915_GlazedFriction.jpg.8e44dafc275fbd9ee2e1b644df5d67f0.jpg

Friction pads on new friction plates have a textured surface and are tan in color. If your fiction plates appear dark or black in color and have a smooth, glossy finish, it's time to replace your friction plates.

Operation

While there are limited operating restrictions associated with Rekluse auto clutches, there are a couple of noteworthy restrictions that should be adhered to.

  • Do not perform 3rd gear starts - starting in 3rd gear will increase the chances of burning up the clutch and significantly decrease its life.
  • For some street applications, it is crucial to maintain a cruise RPM at or above the recommended cruising RPM outlined in the installation manual. For example, cruise RPM for auto clutches installed on Harley-Davidson motorcycles should be above 2200RPM to ensure the EXP disk is fully engaged. This will ensure clutch slippage and excess heat build-up is avoided.

45806574_RekluseautoclutchHD.png.01dfcfc9ff8db47eeaf4fecc293d4f8d.png

Wrap Up

This overview of regular and periodic auto clutch maintenance highlights how easy maintaining an auto clutch can be as well as how important doing so is to ensure the clutch performs optimally throughout its life. Regular maintenance boils down to ensuring break-in is performed according to Rekluse’s recommendations, the free-play gain is checked consistently, the proper oil is utilized, and the oil is changed routinely. Periodic maintenance items consist of a couple of measurements, a functionality check, and several visual inspections to ensure all components are in tip-top shape. If you’re ready to increase the performance of your machine, you can find Rekluse clutches via the Rekluse Make/Model finder or dealer locator. Alternatively, Rekluse customer service can be contacted at 208-426-0659 or by email at customerservice@rekluse.com.

EXP measure correct.JPG

EXP wedge pushed out close up.JPG

  • Like 1


User Feedback

Recommended Comments

Wow, what a great and extensive article, thanks. I have a question about a earlier model Rekluse clutch that they don't sell and/ or support anymore. It's the Rekluse z-start clutch one of their first model clutches for a Drz400. Bought it second hand and has been working flawlesly for about 2 years. On my last trip, the clutch started to slip big time, running really hot like I was running without oil. Checked oil amount and found it to be within spec. Took the clutch apart and found the last friction plate ( going from the outside in) to be broken. The rest of the steel and friction plates show no signs of wear at all. What could have caused this, and might this be the reason for the slipping clutch? Any help is apreciated. Thanks Paul

Share this comment


Link to comment
Share on other sites

That would happen if you didn't check the clearance gap at the pressure plate and it was extensive. The z-start comes with thicker steel plates to account for play and wear. If your friction plates are worn then a thicker plate is used to tighten the gap and keep the play in spec. You check the gap with the little metal wires that have 90 degree bends at the ends. You insert them into the gap and check for clearance. Refer to the manual. Also I find it huge to add the anti-squeal o-rings on the inner hub in the little circles that are machined into it. 

 

(8) RMS Measured Drive Plates - Around .55 as I recall... 

(1) RMS .065” OR .060” Drive Plate (Adjustment Plate)

http://www.rekluse-deutschland.de/anleitung/anleitung_rekluse_zstartpro_all.pdf

 

 

  • Like 1
  • Helpful 1

Share this comment


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes Chris is on it. Generally over time friction plates will wear, which can take your clutch out of spec. ~ If you do not have the no-go gauges like Chris mentioned you can also use feeler gauges: the perfect gap on Z-SP is roughly .040 in (check using 2 feeler gauges on top of the top friction plate - diagonally across from each other)

Paul - When the clutch begins to slip it causes heat. Heat is generally the enemy of the clutch plates. The heat can cause friction plates to fatigue and break. The older the friction plates get generally the more brittle they can become.

In your case where there is little to no clutch wear noticeable, It may also be a good idea to check your clutch basket for side to side movement which could signify worn basket dampers. This can also cause fibers to break.

Lastly to get you rolling again you should only need to replace the clutch pack. You should be able to reuse your steel plates (from Rekluse) as long as they are flat and not warped. Then get yourself some new OEM friction plates (either from Rekluse or your Suzuki Part Dealer of choice). Double check your gap setting and you'll be rolling.  - AP

 

 

Edited by Spider Tech
  • Like 1

Share this comment


Link to comment
Share on other sites


Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


  • Similar Content

    • By Dylan Swicegood
      Recently got this bike and it was pretty neglected by previous owners. I decided to do some maintenance due to the fact that I broke my wrist.
       I noticed trying to replace the fork seals and bushings that the left side damper compresses and stays compressed fully while the right side pushes in and back out. Any reason as to why?  
      Also the bushings on the dampers are different on both sides. Is that normal? 





    • By Ian Oakes
      Hi,
      Earlier this year I put a Lifan 125 with an automatic clutch into an XR70 for my 9 year old son. Now he's learnt to ride the automatic clutch had become a problem as he's unable to pop the clutch to do wheelies and donuts etc (although he taught himself to slightly depress the gear lever slightly to disengage the clutch and pop the front wheel). I know I can swap the motor out for about $280 AUD off ebay, but I was wondering if it was possible to do a conversion. I've found the following parts on ebay
      Clutch case
      Manual Clutch
      I know I'll also need a lever and cable, but what other parts do you think I'll require?
      I've also seen a conversion kit for $165 USD, but it's for 88 to 108cc engines and once I convert it to local currency and pay for postage I might as well buy another engine, which won't go down well with the wife.
      Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
    • By Gatorade88
      I have never paid for a brand new dirt bike but might consider it sometime in the future. What's your guys' opinion on maintenance on a newer bike. Is it hard or easy? I have no problem working on dirt bikes at all but have never worked on things like fuel injection, air forks, etc.
    • By BlackEagle077
      I found an old ASV clutch lever in my dad's old motocross gear. I assume it is for a 05-10 KX250F. It was still in the box and looked brand new. I have a 15 YZ250FX and was wondering if the lever could fit on my bike. The ASV clutch lever has a hot start lever on it, my bike does not. If I can't fit the lever on my bike it will give it to one of my friends. One has an 07 YZ250f and the other has a 12 KX250f. If I can fit the lever on my bike could i do anything with the hot start lever or will it just have to hang there?

    • By Jp-2405
      Hi I have a 2017 ktm 85sx 17/14. I was wondering is there anyway to adjust my clutch because when I first start to ride it seems to be dragging a little bit like when I’m in first going down a hill it will engine break a little(not enough to hurt it but I still blip the throttle to be safe)Is there any way to adjust it like a cable. I read the factory manual and all it says is to adjust the lever but I don’t know if that would help but I will try. Any suggestions?
×