• Announcements

    • Bryan Bosch

      JUST IN!   07/18/2018

      Video: 2019 Yamaha YZ250F Features & Benefits 

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

How to Set Spring Preload


Preload on the rear spring is usually set indirectly, that is, by adjusting preload for a race sag of about 1/3 of the bike's total rear wheel travel, which is about 4 inches on most bikes. Some experts, however, recommend setting the preload directly on the spring, and advise a preload of 6mm, which, according to them, will give you about 4 inches of race sag. I'm not sure why this would be an advantage over the standard way, but I worked out a procedure for setting preload this way, and it did indeed result in a race sag of 4 inches on my TE-250...

- Put your bike on a stand

- Loosen both nut-rings on your rear spring

- Backoff the lock ring an inch or so

- Backoff the main ring until the spring relaxes to its full length

- The lower edge of the main ring should just barely touch the spring

- Get a small hose or piece of tubing 6 inches long

- Spray paint thru the tubing on the threads of the shock body

- Mark a pop-sickle stick with 1 or 2mm marks (your choice)

- Rotate the main ring clockwise (CW) to compress the spring (add preload)

- Stop every full rotation and check the preload with the popsickle stick

- Continue adding preload until you have moved the spring about 6mm

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

User Feedback

There are no comments to display.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

  • Similar Content

    • By Kirk K
      I deliver food with my drz400sm(GrubHub, etc...), anyone have some advice for how to set the suspension to jostle the food the least, mainly I assume the rear.  The food sits out pretty far over the rear fender.  I don't really care about performance when I'm delivering.  Would rising while braking helpful or harmful?  I really can't tell... the food rarely looks messed up, despite questionable driving choices.  Oh yeah, it still needs to be able to go through a construction site now and then...  Any help appreciated. Will include pic.

    • By LuizSNeto
      DirtSkins Fork Seal Skins protect your seals from harsh riding conditions and save fragile gaskets from the elements. Proven on the Trail, Track, Dunes, and Baja.
      Installed in seconds using velcro
      Made of 2mm Neoprene
      Protect your Seals from harsh riding conditions
      Form Fitting
      Rider Tested
      Zip-Ties Included
      Sold in pairs.
      For 125cc or Larger.
    • By Torrac
      I have a race coming this sunday that is fairly rocky. Rocky as in 3-6" rocks, scattered tree roots, and hard pack. I'm on a yz 250x stock suspension and Tubliss front and rear. I have been running about 6lbs in both tires and have clickers in about the middle. Any suggestions on how to set clickers and PSI would be much appreciated. Thanks ahead
    • By markozero
      Hi guys! I have a DRZ 400 (I guess is an S model or a E version but not Valenti)
      I have to preparare the forks and rear shock for off road but I need to know the original setting (valves, etc ) to have a starting point.
      I use thsi bike mostly off road so I hope someone out there can suggest me a revalving/setting progression to set up better the front fork and rear shock 
      Regardng the sprins weight, someone knows the stock weights front and rear?
      (I'm 75kg so I think the stock springs could be fine...but I have also a Showa Spring 5.2 to try)
      Many thanks!

    • By STANNERZ123
      Hi All
      Newbie here.
      I have a DRZ400s that I have just Smoto'ed.
      Can anyone recommend a better set of springs for the front forks and better oil?
      I am 6:3 and 230 lbs and desperate for a better set up without the revalve or is it just as well to valve while I am in there?
      Bike is 14 years old can would I just get away with renewing the fork oil?
      Thanks in advance, aces