Off Road Suspension/Control Setup


Dwight_Rudder

General Ergonomics:

-I generally like a medium soft seat that is wide enough to sit on. Enduro Engineering has a nice wider replacement seat for the 04-05 KTMs.

-I also tend to like a slightly taller handlebar setup. I like to use minibike bars on my race bikes. If using a 7/8's handlebar , I like the Renthal YZ80 bend. Slightly straight bend and about 7 mm taller than CR-HI. You also don't have to trim this bar for the woods. It is just under 29" wide. If using the Fat bar setup that is popular now I find the Moose Flex Series Mini bend bar is very nice. Similar to the YZ80 bend but is 29 1/2" wide. Again no cutting down to size.

-I prefer the Moose aluminum hand guards. Sometimes I add the plastic deflectors to them. I set them up straight forward when you are sitting on the bike.

I adjust the levers a couple degrees down from straight forward. Adjust the levers to move if you hit them hard with the palm of your hand. I usually trim the balls off and make the levers a 3 finger on the clutch and a 2-3 finger on the brake.

-I adjust my shifter slightly above level with the foot peg. That way you never have to point your toe down to shift. Ride with your toes pointed down and you chance breaking your toes or foot. You may have to shift by raising your leg when sitting way forward.

-Adjust your rear break lever to have about 3/4 to 1" of play.

-Adjust to level with foot peg. I usually add a stiffer return spring to the lever to help prevent me from dragging the break in tight woods. The first time you use it it feels funny but you quickly adapt.

-Use a High temp brake fluid like Maxima or Motul Racing. I also prefer using Moose Brake pads. These are made by DP Brakes for Moose. The difference is that the Moose pads have double the ceramics on the back to prevent heat transfer and helps keep the brake fluid from boiling. They work well and last long also.

Suspension

-I also set my suspension up very light but controlled. I don't want the suspension to "Baby Buggy".

-I like Pirelli tires with Bridgestone HD tubes. I use the MT83/Scorpion Pro front tire in the wet and the MT16 when dry. I always run the MT16 rears and adjust air pressure for the situation.

-If wet I will run 11 PSI ft and 10 PSI rear. If dry I run 12 Psi ft and rear. I like the MT16 rear tire for the control it gives me in the woods. It allows me to slide my rear tire with total control. I can brake slide a tight turn and roost out . I find I couldn't do this using a tire like the Michelin S12. The S12 just got too much traction ( if there is such a thing ). The Pirelli MT16s are Pirelli's cheapest tires too.

-I usually gear my bikes down a bit. Like on my KTM 525EXC, I went from a 48T rear to a 52-53T. On my Honda XR400 I went from a 45T to a 48T. On my Honda XR250s ( with big bore kits), I had to go to a 46T from a 48T. Which is gearing taller as it was geared too low from the factory. Like the TTR125 Yamaha is geared way too low. I had to go up 2 teeth on the Countershaft sprocket on my wife's bike.

Cher'o

Dwight




User Feedback


There are no comments to display.



Guest
This is now closed for further comments

  • Similar Content

    • By mjf6866
      Hello all, I have a basically bone stock XR400 that i've owned since 1999 that i'm doing some maintenance on over the winter.  Basic stuff really, rebuilding calipers and brake system, changing fork oil, re-greasing stuff.  I bought a pumper carb on a black friday special that I'll be putting on as well.  As of now, its just got the basic gordon mods done (snorkel removed, rejetted stock carb and the exaust baffle drilled)  yes, i still am running the stock baffle and muffler because i need it to be quiet where i ride.
      So anyways, i ride in the North East (Pittsburgh PA to be exact) and my trials are mostly tight, rocky and rooted.  not a whole lot of high speed stuff at all, just technical stuff with some good hills thrown in there.  Now I've always toyed with the idea of changing up the front fork springs to something a little more aggressive, but not sure how that would effect my riding style with my trails.  I installed the Summers Racing fork brace (that mounts right above the front wheel) way back in 2000, but i've never actually felt the bike with stiffer springs.  I've heard many people rave about it, but always wondered if it would work in my application.  I weigh about 175ish so if i were to get different springs, which ones would you guys recommend?  I figure i'd change them out while i have the bike apart over the winter if it would improve an already awesome trail bike.
       
      Thanks!
    • By Baja Designs
      Hello CRF450R Owners,
      Bailey here with Baja Designs.  We recognize ThumperTalk as one of the go-to sources for information on the CRF450R and we receive emails daily regarding the best inexpensive light setup or purchasing the B1K setup ran by Ox Motorsports.  We would like this thread to be a General Discussion area for members and guests to discuss Dual Sport Kits (DSK), Lights, and Lighting Acessories based upon stock and modified charging systems.  Please Post up if you have any questions or comments CRF450R related! 
      www.bajadesigns.com

    • By caseym
      I am thinking of lowering my 16’ TE 125 but i have no clue on options or cost. Honestly, i am not to worried about throwing a little cash into it. At 5’5, im tired of high siding 5 times a day. Side note, I ride a mix of single trac and open woods, hare scrambles/enduros, and a tad bit of mx. Thanks for the help!
    • By gphilip

      Greetings!
      I just bought an electric 2017 Alta Redshift MX. Love it to pieces!
      I have been trail riding it on powerline roads for the last week. It has a ton of traction, a lot of instant HP, and it is always in the right gear. It weighs 260 lbs, but without a heavy flywheel if feels very light, I swear, not any heavier than my 2015 Husky 250TC 2-stroke. Very flickable and maneuverable.
      The suspension is exactly the same as on my Husky. Same 4CS fork, same shock, and same linkage and motion ratios. Alta spec'ed an excellent valving, this 4CS works! The bike is very nicely balanced too.
      But it feels way too soft for motocross. And it is not the damping but the springs that feel soft. I can easily tell, the bike is very well controlled but feels wallowy, slow to respond to large road bumps, whoops, etc. Compresses the suspension almost fully on even small jump. Lots of slow but very significant acceleration squat and brake dive. It definitely needs stiffer springs. I noticed this when riding two other Altas as well. And some magazines and YouTube videos are also saying that the Alta Redshift MX is sprung too soft.
      I initially thought the springs were much softer than on my Husky. But they are NOT, according to the manufacturer. The stock springs are 0.52 kg/mm front and is 6.3 kg/mm rear. The bike weighs 260 lbs. It is heavy. The Alta has much stiffer springs than all my other MX bikes, including the YZ450F!
      So I bought the Motool Slacker digital sag scale and measured the sags accurately.
      Here is the kicker: The race sags are the same or less than on my 2-stroke Husky! The Alta suspension engineers must have copied the 2014 KTM and increased the spring rates proportionately to the weight of the bike + the weight of the rider. The static sags were a little larger, showing that the stock Alta is sprung 1% stiffer than my well-tuned Husky, when adjusted for its weight + the weight of the rider.
      However, when the springs rates are compared to just the weight of the naked bike, they are 6% SOFTER. OMG!
      This is why it wallows, squats, pitches and bottoms out so much! The bike itself has a lot of inertia, including the pitch inertia. There is no other way to fix this but to stiffen the springs.
      So... I think I have reached a conclusion:
      I have to stiffen the springs proportionately to the original specs, approximately the same percentage front and rear.
      The static and race sag numbers will not match the traditional specs. I can make a reasonable static sag, or race sag, but NOT BOTH.
      I wonder if there are some suspension gurus here who have experience with re-springing bikes that are much heavier, much lighter, or have a much stiffer suspension, like the pro bikes. They can't match the same 35/100mm rule of thumb rear sag numbers either.
      So, please check my spreadsheet and let me know what you think. I am leaning towards Variant 2. Thank you for reading my post.

      - - - - - - - -
      Last thought: I cannot understand why people do not care about the decimal point in spring rate specs? For pete's sake, MXA and MX-Tech, 4.9 N/mm is NOT the same as 5.0 kg/mm! Race Tech has figured it out though, it appears.
       
    • By idratherberiding
      I need to do the forks on:
      2012 WR450F
      2007 YZ250
      Is there a trick to getting the compression damper piece out without that special fork cap tool?  Heres what im talking about: 
      2012 WR450F

      2007 YZ250

      I rebuilt a pair of AOS forks with no special tools but I think the compression body came out with a 17mm socket.  It was off a 2008 KLX450, I'm PRETTY sure top looked like this:

       
      Maybe someone can verify that 2008 KLX450R forks have that style of top cap.  I cant remember and the bike is not in my possession atm.
      I dont like buying model specific tools so if there is a trick to getting those compression caps off let me know!