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Know a little something about maintenance, fixing, tuning, or modifying MX, offroad, & dual sport motorcycles, ATV or UTV? Or, maybe you have mad skills riding or racing them? Whatever the case, if you have valuable knowledge & experiences that relates to motorcycles, ATVs, or UTVs, please help your fellow riders by sharing your best tips, tricks, and how to articles.

    georgestr
    Originally Posted By: PA_Kevin in the TTR forum.
    Jetting 101:
    Question:
    I thought my Yamaha TTR 125 would idle without the choke. But with when the choke was off it would not idle. But the opposite happened with the choke.
    Is there any particular reason for this?
    Answer:
    Your carb meters the fuel to your engine. The carb has three different sub systems:
    Pilot Jetting - for up to 1/4 throttle position
    Needle Jetting - 1/4 > 3/4 throttle position
    Main Jetting - 3/4 > full throttle
    These jets allow a fixed amount of fuel, the needle allowing an "operating band" of fuel metering.
    To alter the amount of fuel, you can either increase or decrease the orifice (the hole in the jet). This applies to your pilot and main jet.
    The needle jet is actually a needle. The fuel first passes through the main jet, then the needle limits the fuel flow (kinda like putting your pinky finger into a garden hose. Water still comes out, just not as much).
    The reason your bike won't idle:
    Fuel Screw
    The Fuel Screw is mis-labeled in the Yamaha manual. It is labeled as an "Air Screw". This is 100% backwards. Air screws are on two stroke carbs. The last I checked, this carb has been on this 4 stroke engine.
    The fuel screw allows more fuel through the pilot circuit. This very definitely affects low speed operation. To allow more fuel flow or richen up the bottom end, the fuel screw is turned counter-clockwise (or turned OUT). This IS richening up the bottom end.
    To lean it out, the fuel screw must be turned clockwise (or turned in). The problem with this low speed/idle jetting is it is too lean. The only time I think you would turn it in is if you decide to ride your TTR into the Rockie Mountains, where bikes are starving for air, which ain't there!
    Pilot Jet
    First, your pilot jet is absolutely too small. You need to go up in size to a 17.5. The fuel screw on your carb allows a VARIABLE amount of fuel to pass through the pilot jet. This fuel screw WILL ABSOLUTELY affect your idle. The fuel screw has a spring behind it that allows you to turn it without it falling out of your carb. Turning it in REDUCES the amount of fuel (leaning the fuel/air mixture) and conversely turning it out INCREASES the amount of fuel (richening the fuel/air mixture). The bike IS starving for fuel at idle because the pilot jet is too small. Regardless of the fuel screw position, your bike NEEDS MORE FUEL. If you end up turning your fuel screw out 3 turns or more, your pilot jet IS TOO SMALL.
    Needle Jet
    The needle jet can be changed as well, or raised or lowered. So far, I have not seen any recommendations to swap out needles. Needles vary in diameter, AND taper in size, i.e. the tip of the needle is skinnier than the diameter half way up the needle. So as the needle is being pulled up, the needle gets skinnier. This allows MORE fuel as the needle is raised up via the throttle cable.
    There is a clip on the needle that allows you to raise or lower the needle, effectively changing the amount of fuel flowing in this 1/4 > 3/4 throttle position. So, if you move the clip down, this effectively raises the needle. Since the needle is now higher in the carb, and we know the needle is skinnier at the bottom, MORE fuel will pass through in the midrange than before you moved the clip.
    As for swapping out the needle, the skinnier the needle, the more fuel allowed into your engine.
    Main Jet
    At 3/4 throttle and higher, the ONLY thing metering fuel is the main jet. If your bike has problems at wide open throttle, the main jet is your culprit (unless it's your ignition...???). A larger main allows more fuel.
    When you modify your bike, i.e. cut your airbox lid, install a high air flow airfilter, you are changing the amount of air into the engine.
    When you install an aftermarket exhaust pipe, more air (exhaust) is coming out of your engine.
    In BOTH of these conditions, you MUST increase the fuel going to your engine to offset the air going into (or out of) your engine.
    Moving more air means you have to move more fuel.
    Elevation & Weather Changes
    When there is a change in the weather or riding elevation, the amount of Oxygen or moisture will be the culprit. At higher elevations, there is less O2 available. You will need to jet lean to decrease the amount of fuel to compensate for the lower O2.
    If it is humid, there is MORE water in the air, you MAY have to jet lean.
    In the winter, bikes run lean. Because of the lower temps and humidity, there is more O2 due to density changes. Your bike will run lean, and you will benefit w/ RICHER jetting.
    I hope this helps you understand carbs better.
    If you have ANY recomendations/comments/questions to IMPROVE or DISPUTE this post in any way, please PM me. I am wide open to critique!!
    Kevin
    Scovndrel
    This article covers checking your carb needle to find out which one you have, and doing some basic mods to your KLX300 for quick and cheap performance gains.
    Before I say anything else, I have to tell you that according to the Owner's manual for the 2006 KLX300, it is a federal offense to remove or modify any part of the intake system, carburetion system, or exhaust system. It is also a federal offense to operate any vehicle that has been modified in this manner.
    Not only that, but making these modifications will void your warranty. Your dealer may charge you for repairs related to these systems if you modify them.
    Having said all of that, everyone does it, and the dealers even tell people to do it. I've never heard of anyone getting busted anywhere but California for moding their bike.
    Here's the deal:
    In models previous to 2006, Kawasaki shipped the bike to 49 of the states with one type of needle in it. The California models got bikes with a different needle in them (and a bunch of other smog equipment). I don't know what the CA guys do to make their bikes run better.
    The rest of the world, however, made some very easy mods to greatly improve the bike's performance:
    a. Remove the airbox lid.
    b. Replace the air filter
    c. Remove the restrictor plate from the muffler.
    d. Replace the crankcase breather hose.
    Those changes, by themselves, made a huge difference.
    However, starting with 2006, Kawasaki is shipping all U.S. bikes with the needle that they used to send only in the California bikes. Now, the Canada bikes get the good needle and everyone else gets the "bad" needle. With the bad needle in there, removing the airbox lid causes the bike to run like crap. So, now you need to replace that needle AND do all of the things mentioned above.
    Here it is in more detail:
    1. Identify your needle.
    The first thing you need to do is find out what needle you have in there. To get to it, first remove the seat and gas tank (make sure you shut the gas off first). From there, you'll be able to get into the top of the carb, where the needle is. Here's an exploded diagram of the carburetor:

    Make sure that when you take it apart, you carefully keep track of each component and put it back the way you found it.
    The first thing to do is remove the diaphragm cover. That's #14041 in the picture. When it comes off, the spring under it will try to escape. Don't let it.
    Get yourself a tupperware container and put the cover, screws, and spring in it.
    Once you have the cover and spring out, stick your finger down the hole and gently remove the slide. Make sure the rubber diaphragm doesn't get stuck on anything and tear.
    Once you have the slide out, put your hand over the hole and turn it upside down. The "seat-spring valve" (white plastic thing with legs, #16007) will come out, along with the needle possibly some other tiny bits like a collar (#92143) and spring clip (#92037) - but the clip, if it exists, should be firmly attached to the needle.
    Compare your needle to these two pictures:

    If it looks like Needle2.jpg, it's the "bad" needle.
    If it looks like Needle3.jpg, it's the "good" needle.
    The needles also have little letters and numbers stamped into them near the fat end. If it says "N5AF", it's the "bad" needle. If it says "N1TC" it's the "good" needle.
    If it is the good needle, put your bike back together and skip to step #2. Make sure you get that white plastic thing with leg in right. Don't cover the hole in the bottom; make sure it seats all of the way. Your bike will tell you if you get it wrong.
    If it is the bad needle, call your dealer and order these parts:
    16009-1912 - Needle-Jet,N1TC
    92037-1401 - Clamp, Jet Needle
    92143-1667 - Collar
    The new needle will cost you about $20. Not sure about the clamp and collar, but they'll be cheap.
    2. Remove the airbox lid.
    This step is frighteningly easy. Just pull off the seat, unscrew the four bolts holding the lid on, pull it off (and store it safely somewhere), and put the screws back in. I recommend this so that you don't lose the screws, and so that your screw holes don't get muddy, corroded, or whatever.
    The airbox lid looks like this:

    See how small the intake holes are in that lid? See how much more air it can get if you remove it?
    Oh, and by the way, see how much more dust, grit, sand, and water can get into the airbox without the lid? Clean and lube your air filter VERY often after you've taken that lid off. Get some air filter oil and remover that is easy to clean off and re-apply. I recommend "No-Toil" filter oil and cleaner. No-Toil also sells filters, but the popular opinion says to buy a "UNI" filter instead. It has a rough outer filter and fine inner filter. It lets more air in while still filtering out the bad stuff. They cost about $20. The No-Toil costs about $7.95 each for the oil and cleaner.
    3. Remove the restrictor plate.
    This is also very easy. The plate at the back of the muffler has two screws holding it on. Remove them, remove the plate, store the plate with the airbox lid, and put the screws back in.
    The restrictor plate looks like this:

    The Kawasaki manual calls this piece the spark arrester. I think they do that to try and scare you. The parts diagram on the Kawasaki website calls it the "Baffle-pipe, muffler". I asked the dealer if the spark arrester still stopped sparks with the cover off and he said it did (shrug).
    This mod will make the bike a lot louder, so your neighbors might not like it if you run the bike at home a lot after making this mod. It also leaves a gaping hole in the back of the can, so be careful when hosing down your bike. Don't get any water in there if you can avoid it.
    4. Replace the crankcase filter.
    This mod isn't as popular, but is supposed to help significantly as well. The deal is that the stock crankcase breather hose has a brass couple in it that has a really small hole in it that restricts airflow. A bigger hose without a coupler is supposed to help. You run the hose up into the airbox and stick the little filter on the end.
    You can get all of the crankcase breather stuff from your local auto parts store.
    ARin
    I wanted to be able to remove my fender packs when i don't need them...but i also like the security of the bolt-on design, rather than the strap on type of packs.
    Here is my solution.

    Chuck the pins in the worlds smallest vise and use a cutting wheel, or hacksaw to cut them just above the first hitch pin hole. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE WEAR SAFETY GLASSES!!! Cutting wheels have a tendency to fly apart whenever they want to...and riding is tough with one eye.

    Then chamfer and smooth the rough ends with the worlds smallest bench grinder. *I have a pretty small garage, so you will notice many of my tools are also of Lilliputian dimensions

    Now, you have used the bolt holes in your fender pack as a template to drill the appropriate holes in your fender. Here we see the trimmed Clevis pins with washers inserted into the underside of the fender holes, and epoxied in place.

    Here we see the finished product from the top of the fender. This is the way it will look when you don't want to lug around your packs.

    Now, you can use the hitch pins to secure your fender bag in a snap...and still take it off easily!!


    Here is my headlight shroud getting the same treatment.

    And the finished product, the way it looks when you don't want to take your packs.

    And here it is with my moose tool pack attached


    All done!!!!

    ARin
    This is a beginners guide to general take down of the Kiehin FLAT FCR carburetor.
    The bike shown is a 2004 wr450f, but the general design of the carburetor in this article is common for many different makes, models and displacements of bikes.
    This article is NOT an exhaustive tutorial, but should walk you through the steps necessary to open up the carb, and find the most commonly replaced jets.
    To begin, we turn the tank petcock off, disconnect the fuel line, and remove the tank from the bike.

    Use a suitable cover for the gas inlet, and make sure there is no loose dirt/dust around/on the carb that could fall in. I use a spray bottle of water, and compressed air to dry it. Even better is to hose off and dry the bike

    Generously loosen the rear air boot with a phillips screwdriver, and the front boot clamp that attaches to the motor with the appropriate allen wrench(no need to loosen both front clamps)..

    Pull the carb rearward, disengaging the front boot, then to the left side of the bike and forward, disengaging the rear boot. Your carb should now sit comfortably to the left side of the bike (this may vary from bike to bike) We are attempting to get the carb in a spot in which both the float bowl and the top plate are accessible.

    and from the bottom, we can see the entire float bowl

    Remove the fuel screw (if you don't have an adjustable fuel screw such as MSR/ZipTy etc, stop now, and go to your shop and get one). Before removing the fuel screw, i like to turn it IN all the way, bottoming it out, so i know how many turns it had been at. Remember to keep the spring/washer/o-ring in the right order, and don't lose them. if they don't come out with the fuel screw, go fishing for them with a dental pick, or a piece of bailing wire..

    Now drain the float bowl into a suitable container, by loosening the drain stopper.

    Now remove the screws at the four corners of the float bowl

    A magnetic pair of gloves or a magnetic dish helps keep track of screws, i highly recommend them.

    With the float bowl removed, we can see inside. Here pointed out is the leak jet...if we are changing the leak jet, remove it with an appropriate size flat blade screw driver, and replace. remember, smaller # leak jet, means larger volume and duration of AP squirt!

    Here, looking straight UP into the carb, we can see the main jet (middle) and the pilot jet (left of picture). The main comes out with an appropriate sized socket, and the pilot slides right out after being loosened with a flat bladed driver.

    After we are done with the pilot, main and leak...we can replace the float bowl.

    Now we rotate the carb so the top plate is visible. And remove the two allen head screws that hold the top plate.

    With the top plate off, we can see the top of the slide, the red tip of the needle, and the needle retaining nut. We remove the nut.

    You can now reach the needle with needle nose pliers (you may need to raise slide by twisting the throttle).

    Now you can change your needle clip position. down for richer, up for leaner. If you are riding a 2005+ Yamaha, your needle is non adjustable. it is worth it to get an OEM adjustable needle, or better yet, a JD needle kit.
    After you are done with the needle clip, drop it back into the slide, and replace the retaining nut. Replace the top cap, refit the carb boots, replace the tank and gas line, and you are done. 👍
    Way Fast Whitey
    *this is for the TT'ers without a bearing press*
    if your rear/front wheel have play in them chances are your bearings in the hub are worn. i've used this method with great results.
    1. remove the wheel from swingarm(for rear wheel)
    2. get the old bearings out, a punch should work, just work around the bearing til it comes free.
    3. go to your local hardware store, and buy a bolt long enough to go through the hub, 2 washers for the size of the bolt/nut, and 2 washers about the size of the new bearings(must be smaller then bearing, but the colser the size the better)
    4.with the new bearings ready for installation, and the inside of the hub cleaned, you can start your new bearings inside the hub.
    5.with the new bearings started in the right direction,put 1 small washer on the bolt, then follow with 1 large washer, fit this through the hub.
    6. once the bolt is through the hub, put the other big washer on the bolt, then the small washer, then the nut, finger tighten.
    7. get your apporiately sized deep socket on the nut and tighten, checking regularly to be sure the bearings are going in right.
    8. once the bearings are seated, you can release the bolt and remove, reinstall on swingarm and do the same to the front.
    good luck
    Trailryder42
    Hey all,
    I recently had a 440 kit installed in my "00XR400 and with the heavy duty clutch springs that were part of the kit, the clutch work was a little tougher than I like. So I bought a Hebo hydraulic universal clutch kit from my buddy Jim Cook at Smackover Motorsports. The reviews of it I'd read said the pull was slightly easier and longer than the Magura and quality was as good or better.
    Thing is, after looking around all over the web, I could find no help or suggestions on where to mount the slave cylinder on an XR. These are 3 links I used to help me, tho none of them work specifically with the XR.
    http://www.john-stichnoth.com/Hebo.html
    http://dirtrider.net/drn_tested/erider/hydrualic_clutch.html
    /forum/showthread.php?t=2151
    So after spending a few days experimenting with different potential mounting points, keeping in mind I need to take into consideration the amount of heat the unit will see and keep it accessable yet somewhat protected, I put it on the left side of the forward main frame downtube. I fashioned a bracket that would use the left mounting point for the fuel tank. Having an IMS 4 gal tank made options scarce. Maybe if anyone else wants to do this project on an XR, between the links provided and what I'll add, it will be a little easier.
    I used the long cable and sheath provided in the kit, without cutting/altering it's length. And the stock style cable keeper/adjuster that uses the stock bracket mounted to the right case cover. The end of the cable is bare so you use the cable clamp provided in the kit that fits the XRs throw lever.

    Here's a picture of the slave cylinder mount. I used a temporary spacer setup the same thickness as the fueltank mount for initial fitting of the cylinder. I wrapped the cylinder in the same heat wrap I used on the header to help shield it from any heat. I used plastic spiral wrap on the braided line to add some abrasion and heat resistance to it.

    Here's final installation pictures.
    [
    My decomp lever would no longer fit on the handlebars, so for now, until I figure out something better, I mounted it to the bark buster.

    Here's a tip I discovered. The bleeder nipple/fitting bolt threads are a sloppy fit. When trying to bleed the system with my vacuum bleed tool, air/vacuum escapes around the threads of the nipple and prevents the tool from working properly. I had to remove the nipple and wrap its threads with teflon tape. The system bled fine after that. Getting the amount of lever pull I needed was tricky and took me awhile to figure out. Took the bike for a spin up and down the street to check it and Man is this thing sweet! I bet it cut lever pull difficulty by 50% or more.
    The braided line is longer than I needed for this install and figuring out a way to route the excess and get the end clocked in the orientation I needed it was a pain. Later I might have it shortend.
    Hope this might help someone else that is contemplating this mod.
    Trailryder42
    mark112
    A lot of people loosen the brackets that attach your clutch or brake assembly to the handle bar, so in case of an accident the assembly will spin rather than break. But its difficult to get the right tension and the friction factor changes with water, mud, etc. which can cause the assembly to work its way loose and move while riding.
    I find the best idea is to wrap Teflon tape (plumbers tape) around the handle bar where the the clutch and brake assembly will be mounted. The Teflon is frictionless, so you can still tighten your clamps firm but it allows the assembly to spin with force in the event of a crash, but not rattle loose while riding.
    250Thumpher
    Whenever I would change my oil, I'd clean the oil filter as well (why not, it's a SS oil filter!)
    But every time I would loosen all the bolts, oil would just pour out of it, onto my water pump, onto my frame, then on my skidplate, then on the stand, then on the floor, then down the driveway, then down the dr... Ok I went tooo far with that, but you get the point...
    So after trying to find a way to make it as clean as possible, aluminum foil did the trick. Just tear off a big piece and fold it in half (hot dog) then in 3's (hamburger). Then just mold it into place and make a U so the majority of the oil goes onto your funnel and into the pan.
    Even if you do not have a perfect seal, a lot of the oil will flow onto the "funnel" and if some oil doesn't go down it, at least you won't have a huge mess.
    A little tape on the corners helps out too. It keeps the foil in place while you are removing the oil filter cover. You may have to play with how big of a piece you need, but just use whatever it takes to get the job done. Trick it to get it thick that you can mold it and it will stay, but not too thick that the oil will not run on it.
    BannerUp

    By BannerUp, in Articles,

    Race sag is the distance the suspension sags under the combined weight of the bike and rider from its fully extended (topped out, no load) position. If your race sag is correct, your suspension is in the middle of its range, where it can handle the widest range of riding conditions without topping or bottoming out. For most riders, a race sag of 90-100 mm translates to the correct preload for dynamic conditions.
    Static sag is the distance the suspension sags under the bikes weight alone, without a rider, from its fully extended position. Once you get your race sag correct, the static sag will tell you whether or not you have the correct spring for your riding weight. So always check static sag after setting your race sag, because the preload adjustment affects both.
    STEP 1 => Put your bike on a stand, and measure the vertical distance from the rear axle to a spot on the rear fender. Record this value as M0…

    STEP 2 => Take your bike off the stand, put on your riding gear, take a standing position, and measure again. Record this value as M1…

    STEP 3 => Subtract M1 from M0… this is your race sag. If it’s between 90 and 100mm, skip to Step 5. If not, put your bike on a stand, lubricate the threads on the body of the shock, and proceed to Step 4.
    STEP 4 => If your race sag in Step 3 was significantly less than 90 mm, decrease the preload by moving the rings up the shock body (ccw). If it’s significantly more than 100 mm, increase preload by moving rings down shock body (cw)… Repeat Steps 2 through 4 until race sag is between 90 and 100mm, then continue with Step 5.

    STEP 5 => With your race sag now correct, and your bike off the stand, measure again, but this time with the bike under its own weight. Record this value as M2…

    STEP 6 => Subtract M2 from M0… this is your static sag. If it’s between 25 and 35mm, your preload and spring rate are correct. Take your bike out for a test ride, then come back to this forum, and do “Adjust Your Dampening.” If your static sag is not between 25 and 35mm, proceed to Step 7…
    STEP 7 => If your static sag is less than 25 mm with the correct race sag, your spring is probably too soft for your riding weight. What happened is this: to get your race sag correct, you set the preload higher than it would have been with the correct (stiffer) spring. So the bike sags less than the recommended value under its own weight. If your static sag is more than 35mm with the correct race sag, your spring is probably too stiff for your riding weight. What happened is this: to get your race sag correct, you set the preload lower than it would have been with the correct (softer) spring. So the bike sags more than the recommended value under its own weight. In either case, go to www.racetech.com, and checkout the recommended spring rates for your bike and riding weight. Buy the spring and install it, then recheck your race and static sag, and adjust as necessary. When you’re done, get in touch -- we’ll go for a ride…
    BannerUp
    You’ll be better able to adjust your suspension correctly if you first understand how it was designed to operate and can identify symptoms of incorrect operation. So let’s take a look at some of the…
    BASIC PRINCIPLES
    Preload and spring rate primarily affect how your suspension handles the big stuff, whereas dampening primarily affects how it handles the small stuff. But there is considerable overlap in who does what, so it’s a team effort. When they work together properly, you get both comfort and control over a wide range of riding conditions.
    Compression dampening works with the spring to resist the wheel’s upward movement during a bump. In both the front and the rear suspension, for example, it helps the spring resist bottoming on big bumps, sharp rocks or deep whoops.
    Rebound dampening works against the spring to resist the wheel’s downward movement after a bump. In the shock, for example, it keeps the rear spring from jamming the seat into your butt, and in the forks, keeps the front springs from pushing the bars into your face.
    If they have not been adjusted to work together, the wheels bounce and slide rather than roll. And you get a lousy ride. Or crash and burn in the boonies. Too much compression dampening, for example, helps the spring too much, which produces a jarring, haphazard and uncomfortable ride over even the smallest rocks and bumps.
    Too little compression dampening can also give you a “hard” ride if you have a “soft” spring -- especially if there is too much rebound dampening. The soft spring, and less-than-ideal compression dampening, allow the wheel to come up too much when it hits a bump, and the excessive rebound dampening keeps the wheel from returning to its “normal” position in time for the next bump. After a series of bumps, the suspension gets "stuck in a squat” with maybe an inch or two of travel.
    This is packing, and shows its ugly face as harshness in the handlebars or side-to-side swapping of the rear wheel. Even with the correct spring.
    Rebound dampening in the forks plays a major role in how well your bike corners. The compression of the springs during a turn “push” the wheel into the ground. The correct rebound dampening “holds” the spring’s rate of return so this “push” is maintained until the turn is completed. You front wheel develops good “cone effect” and your bike tracks through the turn smoothly and accurately.
    Too little rebound dampening allows this “push” to get weak, then go away before the turn is complete. The wheel turns late or loses traction, and your bike turns wide or washes out. Too much dampening allows this “push” to be stronger and longer than necessary to complete the turn. The front wheel bites too deeply, and your bike turns early and inside.
    Compared to your present settings, more dampening slows the wheel’s movement for a firmer ride, whereas less dampening speeds the wheel’s movement for a softer ride.
    For both rebound and compression dampening, turn the clickers out (CCW) to decrease dampening and in (CW) to increase dampening.

    ***********


    Even the most commonly accepted principles and rules of thumb should be tested in the real world of trial and error, revision and adjustment, so let’s take a…
    TEST RIDE
    Shock Rebound
    Ride through rocks, roots or bumps leading into and out of a corner. If the rear wheel hops when braking for the corner or accelerating out of it, soften RD a few clicks and try again.
    Ride over a log, ledge or rock. If the rear kicks up badly, stiffen RD a few clicks.
    Ride through some deep whoops on hard ground. If your bike doesn’t track straight and the rear wheel doesn’t extend to the bottom of each whoop before the next one, or swaps badly, soften RD and try again. If that doesn’t help, stiffen CD a few clicks, and try again.
    Shock Compression
    Ride a trail with small rocks, roots and bumps. If the rear end feels harsh and bouncy, soften the CD. If it wallows, you’re riding the spring -- add CD.
    Ride off your biggest jump. If your shock bottoms badly, add two clicks of CD. If it still bottoms badly, and your bike is not equipped with a Hi-Speed adjuster, try a stiffer spring.
    Fork Rebound
    Ride a short, sweeping turn. If your bike resists the turn, understeers, drifts to the outside, or the tire loses steering traction and washes out, add RD. If it oversteers, turns too quickly to the inside, or the tire bites too hard and knifes into the ground, decrease RD.
    Fork Compression
    Ride a trail with small rocks, roots and bumps. If the handlebars feel harsh, soften the CD. If not, add CD until they do feel harsh, then back off a click or two.
    Adjustment Tips
    Adjust the rider sag and check bike sag to ensure you’ve got the correct spring.
    Check the pressure in both tires, and bleed the air pressure in both forks.
    Use as little dampening as possible to get a “plush” ride, not a “soft” ride.
    Small or smooth bumps want more compression dampening than big or sharp ones.
    Hard trails want less dampening, and soft trails want more dampening
    But sand requires very stiff settings – don’t be surprised if you max CW your clickers.
    Use the Hi-Speed Adjuster for jumps, and the standard CD adjuster for bumps.
    Improper riding technique can fool you into misadjusting your suspension.
    You can make the wheel hop if you lock the brake or pull the clutch in a turn.
    You can make your bike over or under steer with incorrect body position.

    ************


    In the life of every problem, there is a time when it’s big enough to see but small enough to solve. So let’s take a look at a few solutions to some of the most common…
    HANDLING PROBLEMS
    Jarring => harsh ride in the handlebars on relatively small but sharp bumps
    Decrease CD & RD so wheel comes up and goes down faster
    Try a fork spring with a lower spring rate for a softer ride
    Packing => harsh ride in handlebars on larger bumps
    Increase CD in the forks to limit the compression
    Decrease RD to help the wheel return more quickly
    Try stiffer fork springs
    Headshake => front wheel ocsillates side to side, especially in soft stuff
    Move forks lower in triple clamps to increase rake and straight-line stability
    Decrease RD in forks so wheel rolls over rather than ploughs into ground
    Try stiffer front springs and softer rear spring to move center of gravity rearward
    Oversteers => bike turns too quickly, goes inside the turn, front wheel knifes
    Move forks lower in the triple clamps to increase rake, slow down turning
    Decrease RD on both forks to slow down the turning
    Install stiffer fork spring so wheel won’t sink in and bite too much
    Understeers => bike turns too slowly, drifts wide -- front wheel pushes, washes out
    Move forks higher in triple clamps to decrease rake and speed up turning
    Increase RD on both forks to increase “cone effect” and speed up turning
    Bleed air pressure in both forks to stop the front wheel from pushing
    Try softer fork springs so wheel bites rather than pushes the ground
    Kickup => rear wheel hops straight up, seat pops you in the butt
    Increase RD to slow down wheel’s return after hitting a bump
    Swapping => rear wheel hops side to side in hard to loamy whoops
    Increase CD, and/or decrease RD to eliminate packing
    Braking Hop => rear wheel hops excessively when braking for bumps or a corner
    Decrease shock’s RD to help wheel follow the bumps more quickly
    Acceleration Hop => rear wheel hops badly on rough ground during acceleration
    Decrease RD to help wheel follow the bumps more quickly
    If that doesn’t lessen the kickup, decrease the shock’s CD
    Acceleration Spin => the rear wheel loses traction under heavy acceleration
    Increase RD to improve rear wheel “squat”
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