Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

Quick and clean Trailtech install, DIY picture tutorial


I am not as advanced as some of the wrenchers here on ThumperTalk, BUT the things i CAN do, i figure i will share, just in case anyone finds them useful.

Trailtech was nice enough to service my broken computer free of charge, just got it back today...and its going on a new bike. This is a rundown of the install..

First remove the protective plastic guard, and Remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the caliper. The upper bolt in the pic has been loosened to illustrate.


Also, one of the rotor hex bolts needs to be removed, and replaced with the magnetic bolt included in the kit. (sorry no pics)

Now, take the magnetic sensor and use it as a template to mark the spot on the caliper to drill a 1/8 inch hole.


Center punch your mark, and drill. Use something like a bike stand to rest the caliper on while you drill, because it will not reach the ground with the brake line attached.


Use the provided "self-tapping" screw to attach the magnetic sensor to the caliper.


Re-install your caliper, and tighten the bolts to spec torque.

Run the computer cable along with your brake line, and tighten in into the pinch holders. Add a zip tie to keep the cable away from the rotor.


Re-install your plastic protector and route your cable along with your brake line. Add a few zip ties to keep them from slapping around.


Now here i have used my stock ODO mount, turned upside down...I drilled holes to mount the Trailtech base, and bolted it back in stock location. Must remove your headlight shroud for this part.


Mount the computer in the base, and again, ties added to keep the cables from slapping around.


The headlight shroud is re-mounted. The stock ODO mount can be flexed up and down slightly, to optimize the viewing position of the computer. here i am bending it toward me, for a nice, glare free view.


Now we mark the front tire, and mark the ground. Sit on the bike (for a more accurate reading) and roll one revolution of the front tire, marking the ground again. We then measure the distance between the two points in inches.


This number is multiplied by 25.4 to attain the distance in mm, and this value is entered into the computer following the directions in the quick start guide.

And that's that!!!!

Thanks for watching!

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

User Feedback

There are no comments to display.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

  • Similar Content

    • By WheelieWIll
      Does anybody know how much power the WR's brake light draws? Talking about the actual brake light, not just the running light.  
    • By WheelieWIll
      So as I'm adding more and more auxiliary accessories to my Wr450f, I'm running out of room on the battery terminals to connect things.  I've seen some "power distribution blocks" but theyre all made for huge 0 gauge wire.  Anybody have any ideas of what I could do? Or something like this, but for much smaller wire. Like 20 gauge.

    • By Bryan Bosch
      Easy Fit LED under fender for the KTM 690's, features a no drill mounting using the factory mounting points and your original hardware. Includes KTM OEM Euro LED Tail light with brake light/tail light function and add-on LED license plate light pre-installed.
    • By rabbittt
      So try and stick with me here its a bit of a tricky one (for me) ill try to be brief. my bike is an 07 wr250f. I've been going through the forum to help fault find but i've come to a crossroad.
      Went for a decent ride the other day, pulled up and my battery was dead flat when i went to take off again. got home and charged it back up and started the bike again to check volts and it was sitting at 12V but when i revved it the volts dropped to around 10.5V.
      So after a bit of fault finding I've replaced the reg/rec and battery trying to eliminate the problem and i'm still having the same issue. i checked the charging coil resistance and it was in spec, i checked the AC voltage coming from the white and the yellow wires from the stator and they seem ok (was around 15-20VAC at idle and rose to 50-60VAC when i revved it).
      I have noticed the guy i bought the bike off has re-wired all the lighting to a new harness coming straight off the battery which after doing some research figured the charging supply was being overrun hence the voltage drop when i revved it but even when i disconnected the harness (so no load on the battery) to check supply at idle the volts would slowly creep up to around 13.2V but again when i revved it the volts dropped not as bad but still went down. I even connected an LED to the old AC headlight plug because i heard it doesn't like to be open circuit and on that plug i would get around 12V AC at idle and would drop to 5V when i revved. As far as i know there hasn't been any other mods done eg stator or anything.
      so pretty much i'm thinking to just bite the bullet and purchase the trail tech 100W DC kit (as everything is now running off the battery) but what i'm after before i spend even more money on this thing is if anyone had a similar problem or if there is anything that i could be missing as i'm in oz so i wont be able to get the DC kit here any time soon.
      Thanks for battling through that and any help is appreciated.
    • By Josh Krynski
      I had an digital copy of the 2008 CRF230F manual, but alas the .pdf is gone after a nice computer crash.
      Can someone help me out with a screen shot of the wiring diagram. My son decided to do some work on the bike and now it won't start. Battery is good, but I'm thinking when he put new handle bars on it he broke something somewhere. If anybody knows where you can get a .pdf of the manual it would be great (just pm me).