• Announcements

    • Bryan Bosch

      Buy/Sell/Trade/Wanted   01/18/2018

      Checkout our robust classifieds for amazing deals on bikes, parts, accessories, gear & apparel 

Quick Fix for Bleeding Fork Seals


revolucien

After practice at a muddy track one day, I found one of my fork seals bleeding. One of the old pro's showed me this trick.

Step 1

Grab yourself some generic tear-offs (film negatives will also work) and cut the end off one of them with some scissors.

step1.jpg

Step 2

Remove the fork guard and place a flat screw driver between the edge of fork and the dust wiper and gently pry them apart sliding the dust wiper cover down.

step2.jpg step2a.jpg

Step 3

Take the tear-off and slide it against the fork tube, in between the fork tube and seal.

step3.jpg

Step 4

After working it around the fork pull it out and you should see some small particles. Believe it or not those will cause your seals to leak badly. Repeat this several times and you should see less and less.

step4.jpg

Step 5

After, don't forget to also clean the dust wiper before replacing it. Put the dust wiper back on and try bouncing on the forks a little and take a look, it should be cleared up.

step5.jpg

This won't help if your seals are worn out but, it may save you a trip to bike shop and the cost of replacing seals.

There is also a tool called Seal Mate designed specifically for this purpose if you don't want to use tear-offs or film negatives.

In addition you may want to use a neoprene fork seal protector. These ‘seal covers’ filter out and help prevent particles from reaching the seals and therefore reduce the need for cleaning and also extend the life of the seal.




User Feedback




Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


  • Similar Content

    • By mjf6866
      Hello all, I have a basically bone stock XR400 that i've owned since 1999 that i'm doing some maintenance on over the winter.  Basic stuff really, rebuilding calipers and brake system, changing fork oil, re-greasing stuff.  I bought a pumper carb on a black friday special that I'll be putting on as well.  As of now, its just got the basic gordon mods done (snorkel removed, rejetted stock carb and the exaust baffle drilled)  yes, i still am running the stock baffle and muffler because i need it to be quiet where i ride.
      So anyways, i ride in the North East (Pittsburgh PA to be exact) and my trials are mostly tight, rocky and rooted.  not a whole lot of high speed stuff at all, just technical stuff with some good hills thrown in there.  Now I've always toyed with the idea of changing up the front fork springs to something a little more aggressive, but not sure how that would effect my riding style with my trails.  I installed the Summers Racing fork brace (that mounts right above the front wheel) way back in 2000, but i've never actually felt the bike with stiffer springs.  I've heard many people rave about it, but always wondered if it would work in my application.  I weigh about 175ish so if i were to get different springs, which ones would you guys recommend?  I figure i'd change them out while i have the bike apart over the winter if it would improve an already awesome trail bike.
       
      Thanks!
    • By caseym
      I am thinking of lowering my 16’ TE 125 but i have no clue on options or cost. Honestly, i am not to worried about throwing a little cash into it. At 5’5, im tired of high siding 5 times a day. Side note, I ride a mix of single trac and open woods, hare scrambles/enduros, and a tad bit of mx. Thanks for the help!
    • By gphilip

      Greetings!
      I just bought an electric 2017 Alta Redshift MX. Love it to pieces!
      I have been trail riding it on powerline roads for the last week. It has a ton of traction, a lot of instant HP, and it is always in the right gear. It weighs 260 lbs, but without a heavy flywheel if feels very light, I swear, not any heavier than my 2015 Husky 250TC 2-stroke. Very flickable and maneuverable.
      The suspension is exactly the same as on my Husky. Same 4CS fork, same shock, and same linkage and motion ratios. Alta spec'ed an excellent valving, this 4CS works! The bike is very nicely balanced too.
      But it feels way too soft for motocross. And it is not the damping but the springs that feel soft. I can easily tell, the bike is very well controlled but feels wallowy, slow to respond to large road bumps, whoops, etc. Compresses the suspension almost fully on even small jump. Lots of slow but very significant acceleration squat and brake dive. It definitely needs stiffer springs. I noticed this when riding two other Altas as well. And some magazines and YouTube videos are also saying that the Alta Redshift MX is sprung too soft.
      I initially thought the springs were much softer than on my Husky. But they are NOT, according to the manufacturer. The stock springs are 0.52 kg/mm front and is 6.3 kg/mm rear. The bike weighs 260 lbs. It is heavy. The Alta has much stiffer springs than all my other MX bikes, including the YZ450F!
      So I bought the Motool Slacker digital sag scale and measured the sags accurately.
      Here is the kicker: The race sags are the same or less than on my 2-stroke Husky! The Alta suspension engineers must have copied the 2014 KTM and increased the spring rates proportionately to the weight of the bike + the weight of the rider. The static sags were a little larger, showing that the stock Alta is sprung 1% stiffer than my well-tuned Husky, when adjusted for its weight + the weight of the rider.
      However, when the springs rates are compared to just the weight of the naked bike, they are 6% SOFTER. OMG!
      This is why it wallows, squats, pitches and bottoms out so much! The bike itself has a lot of inertia, including the pitch inertia. There is no other way to fix this but to stiffen the springs.
      So... I think I have reached a conclusion:
      I have to stiffen the springs proportionately to the original specs, approximately the same percentage front and rear.
      The static and race sag numbers will not match the traditional specs. I can make a reasonable static sag, or race sag, but NOT BOTH.
      I wonder if there are some suspension gurus here who have experience with re-springing bikes that are much heavier, much lighter, or have a much stiffer suspension, like the pro bikes. They can't match the same 35/100mm rule of thumb rear sag numbers either.
      So, please check my spreadsheet and let me know what you think. I am leaning towards Variant 2. Thank you for reading my post.

      - - - - - - - -
      Last thought: I cannot understand why people do not care about the decimal point in spring rate specs? For pete's sake, MXA and MX-Tech, 4.9 N/mm is NOT the same as 5.0 kg/mm! Race Tech has figured it out though, it appears.
       
    • By idratherberiding
      I need to do the forks on:
      2012 WR450F
      2007 YZ250
      Is there a trick to getting the compression damper piece out without that special fork cap tool?  Heres what im talking about: 
      2012 WR450F

      2007 YZ250

      I rebuilt a pair of AOS forks with no special tools but I think the compression body came out with a 17mm socket.  It was off a 2008 KLX450, I'm PRETTY sure top looked like this:

       
      Maybe someone can verify that 2008 KLX450R forks have that style of top cap.  I cant remember and the bike is not in my possession atm.
      I dont like buying model specific tools so if there is a trick to getting those compression caps off let me know!
    • By Markl5557
      Hey everyone I have a 2017 drz400 I have never adjusted race sag or static sag on the rear yet , I am a 250 lb rider 6ft tall was curious if anyone knows he recommended sag measurements ? Much appreciated .