Most of you probably already do this, but about twice a year, I give my radiators a good cleaning and a little repair to ensure good air flow. I think this is important for performance and endurance. No big trick, just use plenty of warm water and a soft brush. My little trick is to staighten the fins with one of those plastic tooth picks, the one's with the floss works great. They are soft and won't harm the radiator as long as your not too aggressive. Good luck! I hope this helps.
By Kieran Black
I have freshly rebuild my top end on my 2009 yzf250, new intake valves piston and rings, cam chain. I put it all back together ran mint, but after starting it up for about the 3Rd time a loud knocking noise from the engine appears, the bike is still running fine although a very obvious loud knocking noise. valves are all inspect aswel. note, the knocking id only at one certain compression stroke its past TDC its a short stroke but quite a difficult one, never had even put it in gear so i dont think it is the trans. i also ripped out the cams a couple times thinking that was the problem and once i put it together it ran mint for about 4 seconds then knocking came back. I originally thought it was the exhaust cam decompression sticking but after inspection was not making the nosie. I took the flywheel off and checked if I had put it wrong, but no. have just tore apart the clutch side cover and all teeth are fine. I am at a point where I don't know what to do next. please any advice is much appreciated.
These are pictures of a 2006 honda crf 250 right side case half. In the kick starter mechanism housing, there is a small piece of aluminum that bridges across a hole in the case. It broke off, and im wondering if anybody else has seen this before, and will it be an issue? I dont think it serves a purpose, but i would like a second opinion. Thanks!
Now that I am rebuilding my 2001 DRZ400S due to a crash.. I want to be sure that when it happens again the bike will not be completely totaled. I cannot find any axle sliders for it because it does not have hollow axles. The only thing I have been able to find are engine guards that mount to the frame so I will for sure be getting those. So I just have questions on how to get axle sliders mounted on my bike, and I also will probably be getting a handbrake sometime in the near future. Would I be better off just swapping to an SM swingarm?
I wish there was a document listing all the spec differences between the SM and S models.
Any help would be great.
Hoping someone with a lot more experience than myself might be able to help me out.
Make: YZ450F 2012 model EFI
idles for a minute or two and then stalls when hot and I back off the throttle it stalls after stalling when hot, takes lots of kicks to start again, when i remove the plug and dry and clean it the bike will start more easily What I had done to it before it started this:
bike seized due to chain tensioner wore out and travelled up into the cam chain and head. replaced piston and cylinder (aftermarket Athena installed) assembled head with new valves and springs new cam chain set valve clearance replaced clutch (basket as well) After less than 10 hours, the stalling was happening too frequently to ride without losing my calm so I took it to the shop again. They spent seven hours trying to diagnose the fault with no results.
reset cam timing and checked flywheel key found small amount of water in oil cleaned injector and air mixture screw checked crankshaft position sensor checked coil and cap replaced spark plugi inspected TPS, APS, atmospheric pressure sensor and kill switch It was getting too expensive to leave at the shop any longer so I am trying to have a crack at it myself. Does anyone have any ideas? I'm going to try to do a compression test or leak down test this week. Also, has anyone made up the test harnesses for this engine?... I'm not keen to buy a gytr tuner to test the sensors again if I can avoid it.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
So after chasing down an issue of fuel being in my Oil, it turns out the float needle isn't leaking and the carby is functioning as it should. It was an issue with the Accellerator Pump causing fuel to leak over as the throttle was constantly being turned to try and start the bike whilst it had a valve issue.
So, I have since replaced the filter and dropped the oil twice. However it is still a bit too diluted and smells of fuel. I had left the dipstick off to try and vent the frame. I know there isn't more fuel getting Into the oil as the level isn't changing and it isn't getting worse.
What is the best way to flush it all out? Buy 5L of cheap car oil, warm the bike, drop the oil. Rinse and repeat? Or use an engine oil flush additive? Or both?
I know I need to get another oil filter again, should I put that in after I have flushed it out, or before? The current filter has had 1 oil gone through it and dropped and is currently on its second lot of oil. It has done maybe 20km since then.