JUST IN! 07/18/2018Video: 2019 Yamaha YZ250F Features & Benefits
By Bryan Bosch
World’s First Battery with Built-in Jump-Starting
The RE-START function is essentially the world’s first built-in Jump Starter. Our one-of-a-kind RE-START Technology intelligently monitors its voltage and will put itself to sleep if it senses over-discharge, yet amazingly saves just enough reserve energy to start your vehicle. For example you left your motorcycle lights on overnight – normally a dead battery emergency, but not with the restart function. Simply press the RE-START Button located on top of the battery to start your vehicle and drive away. No need for Jumper cables, Booster Pack or assistance. Also, a Remote Re-Start Button will soon be available so you can activate RE-START without accessing the battery, or removing seat or fairing on the vehicle.
Complete Battery Management System
Not only does the RE-START battery save riders from dead battery emergencies, it is the first powersports battery to offer a full onboard Battery Management System (BMS). Our new RE-START Batteries offer a true BMS, with full time Lithium Cell Balancing, Low-Voltage Cut-off, Over-discharge/ Over-charge protections and temperature protections. These features create the longest lasting, most reliable Lithium battery on the market.
Easy Installation, Fits More Models
All the RE-START batteries feature our new 4-terminal post design allowing easy installation and fitment in any vehicle. Now there’s no need for the left or right negative terminal options that our original OEM Battery line offers. With our new RE-START batteries, one size fits many models which means less stock for dealers to carry since it fits vehicles with either right or left side terminals.
By Dean William
So, I'm new to this and dirt bikes in general. I did small engine repair in high school, so I'm not full on retarded in that respect. But I digress.
My dad recently have me a 1980 Honda XL250s Dual sport bike. It's got the 6v system, and goofy 23" wheel. When I got it, it had sat for a couple years, but nonetheless, I had it running in no time. Then a month later, it was fine tuned with the correct filter, carb rebuild, etc. So it runs fine, no problems there. So now I'm onto electrical; blinkers, horn, things to make it road legal. So after I bought a brand new 6v battery, charged it, I was going through the lights. Headlight runs off stator, so that's fine, tail light runs off both, that's fine, turn signal switches are good, but lights stay solid. Horn switch doesn't work, but I haven't tested the horn itself. Most instrument lights work, but there may be an issue because I used LEDs for that, and when I hit the turn signal, the light comes on, but shuts off neutral light.
Today I got all 4 signals to light up, after I grounded the rear lights. But now they don't come on with just the switch on. Only when the bike runs. And I'm only getting 3v at the battery when it's running.
I feel like I just made it worse when I "fixed" the rear turn signals.
And to make things worse, my 6v trickle charger doesn't work anymore.
By Eastern Sierra_thump
1997 Honda Xr650L. I was changing out my turn signals. After each one I tested the turn signal...all good up till the 3rd turn signal. After the 4th and final turn signal was changed out everything is dead except my headlight. Brake light, turn signals, horn, dash indicators lights (except for headlight indicator) and rear light are dead. I check my fuses and all are good in the fuse area by the battery. Is there another fuse I’m missing?
everything was working perfectly just before. I had a turn signal broken (bulbs are OEM....I do not have LEDs) and was trying to repair and change them all to the same style. I ordered pen replacement signals.
By Taylor R. Boehnlein
Trying to figure out if electrical is working/needs replaced.
Generator tested 263 ohms, pulse tested at 99 ohms. Ignition coil primary tested at 1.7 ohms and the secondary at ~60 ohms w/ the spark plug cap.
CDI seems to be the issue, but the results almost seem too bad to be true. The only resistance I found was the Green to Black/Red at 147.77x200k ohms, Black/Red to Black/White Kill at 152.2x200k ohms, and Blue/Yellow to Green at 150.1x200k ohms . The OEM manual does say that a specific tester is needed, but that seems like a farce.
Any idea what might be going on? CDI's are a little pricey and I would like to not replace unless needed.
HI guys, last post recieved great help so hoping the same here, basically I think I’m experiencing some timing issues on my 02 rm125. The timing marks on the magneto were slightly out by like a degree or less, in favour of an earlier spark, worried that I was gunna fry the piston, I moved the timing marks by a degree in favour of a later spark just for piece of mind that I wasn’t harming my freshly rebuilt engine, since doing this o think I can hear the bike ‘pinging’ when riding at a steady speed, and has developed a ticking noise from the top end, it runs okay maybe a little splutter before the valve opens and possibly down on power a little but I ride a sports bike so maybe it’s just not that fast compared, but once it’s cleared out it sings through the gears as it should, can anyone help? Will post a picture of current position on magneto, also I haven’t proper tool for measuring tdc but by feel on the fly wheel this is pretty much where it’s at, that can’t be right considering the crank turns anti clockwise?