Jump to content

The Technical Advantages of CV4 Thermal Solutions


Kevin from Wiseco

Heat is the enemy of dirt bike and ATV performance, but simple steps can be taken with CV4 thermal protection products to avoid running into bigger problems.

Radiator Hoses

Not all radiator hoses are created equally. This is never more apparent than when your bike’s hose tears, cracks, leaks or collapses. Odds are, your bike is equipped with old-fashioned OEM rubber hoses, which do a menial job. 

RWB_A1_2020-18.jpg.8a2a7c9da44151fb86c9474e873bf5e5.jpg

Chances are, your bike still has OEM rubber hoses, which can crack, tear, and deteriorate. Reliable hoses are a key component in protecting your engine against the dangers of overheating.

Fortunately, advancements have been made in radiator hose technology. Silicone is the new go-to material for hose construction. CV4 has taken it a step farther by utilizing the highest-grade silicone material available. Not only does it improve heat and abrasion resistance, but it also makes assembly and disassembly much easier. When you’re dealing with coolant temperatures around 300 degrees Fahrenheit and extreme pressures, it’s peace of mind knowing that the radiator hoses will hold up.

CV4_Wiseco-3.jpg.1510b5e73635a442488c1d74535ecfa2.jpg

CV4 radiator hoses are made of the highest-grade silicone, providing consistent performance and protection through countless pressure and temperature cycles.

 

CV4 is available directly from Wiseco. Want to find radiator hoses for your machine? Call Wiseco today at 1-800-321-1364 

Over 2,000 years ago, Greek mathematician Archimedes stated, “The shortest distance between two points is a straight line.” He wasn’t talking about radiator hoses, but the rule still applies. CV4 offers their hose kits in standard and Y-kit configurations. The latter has joints formed into the hoses, which reduces the number of fittings and clamps necessary. Less turns and twists for the coolant to navigate results in improved coolant flow and efficiency. Not only that, the ‘Y’ design helps protect against leaks. Note that the Y-style hose kit costs slightly more than the standard design.

1871362112_CV4HoseOrange.jpg.4e6bca289651e19f71708cc28f40c8fd.jpg

Y-kits from CV4 have joints and intersections molded into them where OEM designs would normally have metal joints and hose clamps. This helps reduce chances of clamp failure and coolant leakage while improving coolant flow.

 

Don’t wait until your radiator hoses start leaking or collapsing. Father Time always wins, and your OEM radiator hoses are not exempt. It’s important to also understand that when one hose gives up the ghost, the others aren’t far behind. Improve the performance of your bike with a CV4 silicone radiator hose kit. While you’re at it, pick up a new pack of CV4 radiator hose clamps. They are specifically designed for radiator hoses, clamping the hose efficiently without digging into and tearing the hose material like some standard clamps.

See the CV4 products overview on Wiseco's site here.

20200111_122922.jpg.eb726f88cd5b4ab8a33b96b90e74ee40.jpg Wiseco_CV4_Hose_Clamps-3.thumb.jpg.60739758debe34040c9fda302f7e70e9.jpg

Many OE style clamps will tear into hoses and compromise their integrity. CV4 hose clamps are designed specifically for radiator hoses and allow for repeated assembly and removal without causing damage.

 

High Pressure Radiator Caps

Most riders don’t understand the importance of a radiator cap. They remove it every so often to check the coolant level before riding, but otherwise don’t give it much thought. From a design standpoint, a radiator cap is a thing of beauty. Under the cap is a coil spring located between two rubber seals. You don’t have to be Bill Nye “The Science Guy” to understand that water, or coolant, expands as it heats up. That creates pressure inside the radiator. The radiator cap’s job is to keep coolant in the radiator and flowing throughout the cooling system. If there’s too much pressure, the fluid will force the coil spring into the cap. When that happens, incredibly hot coolant will find its way out the overflow hole between the rubber seals and end up on the ground.

1333900611_CV4_Radiator_Hoses_Yamaha_YZ450F(3).jpg.ea015e83e8389f52f55ed567d5bbcc13.jpg

When the pressure rating for a radiator cap is exceeded, coolant will flow out of the overflow, lowering pressure and coolant boiling point. CV4 caps aim to avoid this.

While this is designed to protect cooling system components from excess pressure, lower pressure in the system also means a lower boiling point. The key is to find the happy medium between pressure and boiling point. The CV4 radiator caps are equipped with a stiffer spring rated to withstand a higher pressure (but not high enough to cause damage), meaning the boiling point of the coolant in your cooling system will be higher. A higher boiling point is key for efficient cooling, as boiling coolant is not effective in reducing operating temperatures. With a CV4 high pressure radiator cap, the coolant stays where it’s supposed to–in the bike. This is inexpensive insurance for your cooling system.

CV4_radiatorcap.jpg.19d7918a0d1945a6b8e6b0bc36e64dd0.jpg

A radiator cap rated to withstand higher pressure helps protect your coolant from boiling and allows the cooling system to continue efficiently managing the temperature of your engine through a wide range of conditions.

 

Thermal Barrier Film

Not all performance can be seen. Case in point, many of the world’s top race teams rely on thermal barrier film to keep their fuel cool. Typically applied to the underside of the fuel tank, as well as around the fuel lines, the film resists heat that is given off from the engine.

2145037077_cv4_thermal_film_rollover(1).thumb.jpg.1b84db5141865ffb0edc9db3316c39d4.jpg

Sometimes problems out of sight can do the most damage. CV4 thermal barrier film is commonly applied to fuel tanks and fuel line to prevent fuel boil.

 

Maintaining cool fuel temperature is especially important during the hot summer months and/or when riding at higher elevations when the boiling point decreases. Either factor will cause your bike’s fuel to lose its combustibility, which has detrimental effects on engine performance.

Fortunately, CV4 literally has your bike covered. Choose between two heat resistance ratings. The silver film protects against highly elevated temperatures that reach up to 1200 degrees Fahrenheit. The gold film protects against temperatures up to 800 degrees Fahrenheit, with the added benefit of reducing temperatures by up to 36 percent. Simply cut out the film in whatever desired pattern you choose and stick it wherever heat is a problem.

Wiseco_CV4_Thermal_Barrier_Film.png.cb2daece5abc95e23e58ffff1f00ce74.png

CV4 thermal barrier film is offered at two levels. Silver protects against up to 1200°F and gold protects against up to 800°F, achieving up to a 36% temperature reduction.

 

Temperature Strips

It would be nice if your bike could verbally communicate with you when it’s having a mechanical issue. Fortunately, there are ways to diagnose the problem. Performance changes, weird sounds, odd smells, steam and blue smoke are indicators that something is amiss. Before ever getting to that point, it’s smart to monitor heat emitted by the engine, radiators, shock body, and other vital areas. CV4 adhesive-back temperature strips are the solution.

RWB_A1_2020-1.jpg.f0425d872028338f673c90cf856737c0.jpg

CV4 thermostrips can monitor temperature just about anywhere you can stick them. Here, Geico Honda uses one on the left-side radiator of each of their race bikes.

Available in a three pack, they are designed with incremental temperature monitoring sections that change color once that temperature is reached. Each strip shows a temperature reading from 149 degrees to 248 degrees Fahrenheit. Installation is easy. Thoroughly clean the desired mounting surface, peel the adhesive backing off, and stick wherever desired. You’ll get an accurate reading every time.

Wiseco_CV4_Temperature_Strips.thumb.png.29aa330bcf1b0195e9658bdc140a937c.png

Stick 'em on and the color will change when that temperature is reached. Simple and cheap protection for your expensive machine!

 

Universal Vent Line Kits

Chemicals, fuel, time and environmental factors are the chief culprits for vent line destruction. For these reasons you may notice that the vent lines on your carburetor, gas cap, radiator overflow, and/or water bypass lines crack or break. Vent lines are important for proper operation, which is why these oft overlooked items shouldn’t be ignored.

CV4 saves the day with their universal vent line kit, which fits a wide range of different model bikes. Made from pure silicone and available in a plethora of popular colors, the line kits are highly flexible for easy installation and removal. What’s most impressive is how the vent line kits are rated to withstand temperatures up to 420 degrees Fahrenheit. That’s a lot of heat! Please note that the vent kits are not designed to replace fuel supply lines.

Wiseco_CV4_Universal_Vent_Line_Kits.png.03e618101afb7db68c328413349dd22c.png

Simple things like vent line can be overlooked after extended periods of time and end up hardening and cracking, causing annoying issues. CV4 vent line helps keep the simple stuff handled, plus, makes it look good.

  • Like 2
  • Helpful 1


User Feedback

Recommended Comments



Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Add a comment...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Similar Content

    • By pisby
      Hey there,  there are a few problems I’m having with my beta,  I’m hoping they pertain to carb issues, but they may not.   The problems are:
      The bike when revved up comes down to idle very slowly & bounces its way down
      It gets hot (I’m 225 LBS, mainly trail riding and it has overheated a few times)
      Excessive smoking ( this may just be a beta thing with the oil injection)
       
      Here is a video smoking and weird running condition & below that is a history of what it’s done and some steps I’ve taken to correct it.
       
      Float position:
      https://photos.app.goo.gl/pigvQYgRwfx7Cdud6
      Excessive smoke
      https://photos.app.goo.gl/DSVMnvPgVWerhbig8
      Surging and not returning to idle:
      https://photos.app.goo.gl/z7X4tsiSeZdjurK99
      https://photos.app.goo.gl/B8pNyKVhzz74f5Cc8
       
      I purchased the bike new but it was a dealers show model and had been ridden quite a bit.   I think the bike has about 57 hrs on it with the original piston.   With the stock jetting it ran fine for a while, and then about 5 rides in, it started to kill when I wasn’t on the gas.   Around that same time I noticed it starting to overheat.  I bought a JD kit to help solve the problem.  I put the appropriate jet in and started with the blue needle in the lowest setting as per the instructions.  I ended up on the mid clip setting on the blue needle and that seemed to work the best with the fuel screw most of the way out, 3.5 turns.  It still does the slow deceleration and surges on the way down.   I have also:  changed the head O-rings, using fresh, ethanol free gas, adjusted the carb float level, changed the plug a while ago,  I can try that again though it’s been a while.    
      I suspect it needs a richer pilot jet,  because it sounds hot and acts hot, and most of my riding is below 1/3 throttle.   The jet it currently has is the stock pilot jet.  Any help would be surely appreciated. 
    • By jpacman
      While riding my '16 XR650L around town the other day, it started to cough and sputter.  I glanced down and saw the oil temp was creeping over 275F (XRsOnly dipstick).  Yikes!!!  This is very unlike Big Betty who's usually very reliable and never runs over 240F.  I pulled over to let it cool, looped home and hosed out the oil cooler unit, and went back out to do a low RPM ride around the neighborhood.  Should be fine, right?  Nope.  The temp dropped temporarily when I restarted the bike, probably as a result of the hose-cooled oil circulating back to the steering head.  Good sign.  But after just 5-6 miles of easy riding, it was back up to nearly 275F.  Well, crap...
      I check the pickup filter in the bottom of the front down tube every other oil change and it's always clean.  I checked the square screen below the clutch pack last fall when I replaced the clutch. Clean.  I typically use 10w40 all year, full dino juice, not synthetic, new oil filter every time.  Magnetic oil plugs plus magnet on the oil filter.  Happy oil is critical to the function of an XR650L, right?
      Last year while riding the TAT, we cranked WFO across Oklahoma at 110F with absolutely no problems.  I climbed the mountains in Colorado (13k foot elevation passes) with no issues.  We crossed the desert southwest with no issues.  5000 trouble-free miles in the loaded and trusty XRL.  Go for a little early morning fun in the woods and the trouble starts.
      Mods: Sutton oil cooler, Acerbis 5.8 tank, '03 carb w/ Dave's mods and slightly larger-than-stock jetting (don't ask, I can't remember), UNI air filter, no air box mods and stock header and exhaust pipe.
      Ideas???  Thoughts???
       
       
       
       
    • By No Good
      Hey guys brand new here. Just picked up a orion rxb250l dualsport on wednesday. I did one test ride for about 15 minutes before letting the bike sit and then another one about an hour or so later. Just yesterday I took the bike out for a long ride with more variations in throttle and load. Keep in mind I was probably riding for about 40 minutes or so before this happened. Coming down a hill the bike started to bog down and it felt like it was running out of gas. So, I immediately reached down and flipped the reserve switch and still it was bogging down. Luckily, I was riding down a hill so next thought was to choke it up just to see what would happen. immediately after going to full choke the bike gets power back. Now once i reach the bottom of this hill (massive hill) it idles for about 5-10 seconds then dies and i can not get it to idle for the life of me. At this point i have discovered that the bike has plenty of fuel (in the tank and in the fuel line) and it turns over just fine. It sounds like it wants to run as well. About 3 minutes go by and i was able to get it started and running on full choke. turn around to drive it up the hill and i make it about a mile and then it dies on a main road so i have to pull off.  again i wait about 2 minutes and then it fires back up and i make it home. Earlier in the ride before this happened the engine was putting off a lot of heat, A LOT. so much heat that i had to kind of angle my leg away while riding just to cool it down. and yes i'm aware of how much heat air cooled engines produce I have an 85 xl350r that spits oil on to my leg and even that didn't feel as hot. I'm not sure what happens to air cooled bikes if they over heat so I don't really know what this could be. Any thoughts/opinions would be much appreciated. Also found this tube running from what looks to be something I've never seen before that ran back to my air filter. is this to keep the airfilter oiled or something? never seen this before and from factory it was routed right next to the engine and melted the tube! pics attached below. There is also air pulsating from it, i ran the bike and put my hand over it to test. No idea what it is.



    • By Morrison74
      Sunday I decided to go explore my parents “newly” acquired land. They bought 3 more acres behind their house years ago, and recently a dam made it easily accessed. So I started up the bike for the first time in a few months, and went exploring. A few minutes in I noticed it was pretty hot, but I figured it’s just because I’m not used to it, as I know the bike gets very hot very quick. After maybe 15 minutes of wiggling around the trees, I got stuck in the creek. I got off to lift my back tire out of the hole I made, and noticed smoke/steam coming from under the bike, I guess coming out of the overflow tubes. I shut it off leading me to hear what sounded like boiling, my first thought was overflow tank, and I was correct. The overflow for my coolant being under the rear fender was literally boiling. I made it a point to get home ASAP, hosed it off (both to clean and cool down), then put it away. First thought was coolant, but what was in the radiator looked good (no metal shards or anything). So I’m lost.
      Now that you’ve read my novel, what should I go about doing? I would think the radiator is bad because it was in a jousting battle so it had a baseball sized dent in it, but that’s been years and never seemed to make a different.
      Thanks in advance.
    • By Brynden54
      recently installed a full Yoshimura exhaust on my 2019 crf 450L and after a few rides I've noticed my air box has begun to melt and I have since had issues with the bike overheating. If there is an upgraded radiator and potentially a stronger air box anyone knows about or tips to avoid these problems it would be greatly appreciated 
×
×
  • Create New...