Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Tips & Tricks for Levers


Kent Rathgeber

I've been around motorcycles and mechanics most of my life, and I've learned a lot of little things that can keep you in a race and save you some money. I thought I'd share a few tips & tricks that have saved me money and races over the years.

When you crash your bike, two of the most likely parts to get damaged are your clutch and front brake levers. Without these two levers, your race or ride could be over. Here are some simple and cheap tricks that can help you.

1) Teflon tape:

What you do with this is wrap a few layers of Teflon tape (available at any home improvement or auto parts store) around your bars underneath the clutch/brake perches. Tighten your perches down snugly, but not so tight that a crash won't move them. The idea here is that Teflon tape is slick, so it allows the perches to move on the bars, saving your levers and perches from damage when you hit the ground.

You CAN use "rotator perches" in place of the Teflon tape, and acheive the same results. My thought on that is "why spend the money if you don't have to?" If you want to spend the money on the rotator perches, that's cool to.

2) Drilling your levers:

Eventually, you're going to crash hard enough to break a lever, whether it's forged or cast. By drilling a small hole in your lever about 1 inch in from the ball end, you create a weak point where the lever will snap. However, the crash only snaps off the outer inch of the lever, leaving you enough of the lever left to be usable. You'll be able to finish your race or ride on what's left of your lever. Some bikes (like KTM's) and some aftermarket levers come with notches in the lever for just this purpose.

3) Using handguards:

We've all seen the wraparound style handguards that a lot of the woods riders use. These make it almost impossible for your levers to get wrecked, but I don't recommend them. Why? There is a chance that, in a crash, your wrist or arm could get caught between the handlebar and the guard, which is highly likely to result in a broken wrist or arm.

The handguards that I use are the "deflector" or "roost guard" type, specifically Acerbis Uniko handguards. These guards won't protect your levers and hands from a tree, but they CAN protect your levers in a typical crash on a track or trail. What happens is that there is a layer of plastic between the lever and the ground, so the lever usually can't catch on any ruts, roots, tree branches, rocks, etc., that could cause the lever to break.

We all know that there are the ARC/ASV levers available, as well as some from other companies. However, these levers are expensive, so why spend the bucks if you don't have to? By using the tricks described above, I've never had a broken lever spell an end to my race or ride, AND I've saved money on levers (that I normally use to buy gas for the bike:busted:)

Sign in to follow this  


User Feedback

Recommended Comments

There are no comments to display.



Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


  • Similar Content

    • By Bryan Bosch
      Ride Engineering is the first company to offer a way to mount the Showa steering stabilizer onto another brand. This MX style stabilizer was originally developed by Ricky Carmichael in his days as a factory Honda rider. Today you will find one behind the front number plate of many top level national pros (this includes Ryan Dungey). Many GNCC/Enduro/Desert riders are also switching from the typical "Desert style" steering dampener to this less restrictive, easily installed device. This simple bolt-on bracket kit is available for all KTMs complete with mounting instructions (Upper and lower brackets included). Showa damper sold separately.
    • By LuizSNeto
      SUB Mount / Complete Stabilizer Kit / when using stock triple clamps   
      (P/N: DS-SUB-7330-01)
       
      Photo may not be your exact model but depicts the same mounting configuration. This kit is designed to be used with the stock Triple clamps and over-sized handlebars. If your model comes with std diameter bars, you'll need to change to oversize bars or use our "Bar reducers", both available here online. We've machined this SUB mount to give you 2 possible handlebar mounting positions. Position 1 is stock, position 2 is 10mm forward of the stock bar position. Step by step pictured instructions are included along with all the necessary hardware.

      "SUB" mount stands for Stabilizer Under Bars, originally designed for raising the bars. These kits are designed for use with Oversize bars. "Bar reducers" are available as an option, to convert the kit to standard diameter bars, should that be desired. This concept allows more room for other equipment such as, Global Positioning Systems(GPS) or Enduro/Rally computers and yet still retain the quick access for adjusting the stabilizer. This is also good for the taller rider who wants his bars a little higher, as it raises the bar location approximately 11-25mm, depending on the model of bike. In some cases, you might consider a lower bend handlebar bend at the same time, unless you are trying to achieve a higher bar height along with your stabilizer installation. We can also help you with other handlebar choices to match your desired setup, as we have a full selection of handlebars to choose from on this website. The SUB mounts are only available on certain models based on the physical limitations of mounting in this area. Each SUB mount comes complete with all necessary parts, hardware and "Step by Step" pictured instructions. If you have any questions, feel free to call or email us. The Photo attached here may be a generic photo to show you the basic components in the kit, but may not be showing the exact kit for your specific bike.
    • By LuizSNeto
      Product Code: LV-120
       
      Gen2 Direct-fit IntelliLever Clutch Blade
      Replaces OE Clutch Lever 50302031300
      Not compatible with KTM OE Handguards
    • By LuizSNeto
      Part Number : LV-112
       
      Gen2 IntelliLever
      Front Brake Lever for
      KX125/250/250F/450F 2000-12
      RM/RM-Z125/250/450 1996-16
      YZ/YZF125/250/426/450 2001-07 (Except YZF250 2007)
      WR250F 2001-2013
      WR450F 2003-2010
×