ULTIMATE RIDING DESTINATIONS: Places to ride before you die!

Specifications
ENGINE
BORE (MM)72
COMPRESSION RATIO13.2:1
COOLINGLIQUID
DISPLACEMENT IN CC293.2
DISPLACEMENT IN CI17.9
ENGINE TYPESINGLE-CYLINDER
STARTERELECTRIC / KICK
STROKE72
VALVE CONFIGURATIONREED VALVE
TRANSMISSION
NUMER OF SPEEDS6
TRANSMISSION TYPEMANUAL
TIRES
FRONT TIREDUNLOP® GEOMAX AT81 90/90 R21 54M
REAR TIREDUNLOP® GEOMAX AT81 110/100 R18 64M
BRAKES
FRONT BRAKE DIAMETER260
FRONT BRAKE TYPEHYDRAULIC DISC
REAR BRAKE DIAMETER8.7
REAR BRAKE TYPEHYDRAULIC DISC
SUSPENSION & STEERING
AIR ADJUSTABLENO
FRONT SUSPENSION BRAND NAMEWP
FRONT SUSPENSION TYPEINVERTED FORK
REAR ADJUSTABLE REBOUND DAMPINGYES
REAR ADJUSTABLE SHOCK / SPRING PRE-LOADYES
REAR SUSPENSION BRAND NAMEWP
REAR SUSPENSION TYPETWIN SIDED SWING ARM
SEAT HEIGHT (IN)37.8
OTHER
FUEL CAPACITY (GAL)2.6
MANUFACTURER COUNTRYAUSTRIA
MANUFACTURER TYPEENDURO
DRY WEIGHT (LBS)221.6
WHEELBASE (IN)58.4

Hello everyone!
Looking for help with AMA rules and off road racing rules. 2018 was my first year racing.  I'm not familiar with rules of moving up.
I  competed in Sprint Enduro series in womens C class. I raced 7 of 8 rounds. 2 days of racing in each round. I didn't had much of competition,  I computed  against only 4 riders and they were almost twice my age. I won 4 of 7 rounds and with that I won championship. By rules of sprint enduro riders who win championship and 2nd and 3rd place finishers who won at least 2 events overall have to move up in next class.  If I choose to race in this series again I have to move up to A/B class there are no B class for women. And I would be racing against women who have been racing for years and much faster than me.
 For women who got 2nd place and won 2 overalls organizer made an exception because of her age, kept her in women C for 2019.  And making me move up, And I feel that I'm not B rider yet.   For 2019 I want to try GNCC Or even local series.  In womens C in GNCC series I think I will place in a mind pack. 
 I was looking at AMA rules of advancement. My name is not listed in B class advancement list.  Because I raced in only 14 races and my RVP is 14 not 15.  By  AMA rules I should be advanced if I have 15 or higher.  I called AMA to check  They telling me that I earned advancement by the series so I should move up. But in the rules of AMA  It doesn't say  if you winning the series you should move up. 
 So if I race in GNCC should I move up to A/B or compete in C class?

Ballards was the premiere Yamaha team to ride for, and they won numerous Championship’s through the years. Here he gives his input on the new Yamaha WR450.
(Sorry Mog)

This preventative Maintenance "fix" is applicable and recommended for ALL YEAR and model year DRZ 2000 -2013
Why does my counter shaft (C/S) sprocket get loose? Is it the nut? Or something else? The “Loose” sprocket” situation in most cases really is not what it seems; the C/S nut is not coming loose. Though that can be a contributing factor. http://www.thumperta...=1&d=1277642132

24 CIRCLIP
18 WASHER
15 GEAR, 3RD DRIVEN (NT:22)
16 GEAR, 4TH DRIVEN (NT:24)
21 WASHER, 1ST DRIVEN LH
13 GEAR, 2ND DRIVEN (NT:26)
14 BUSH, 2ND DRIVEN
22 BEARING, DRIVE SHAFT, LH
34 SPACER, ENGINE SPROCKET
33 SPROCKET, ENGINE (NT:15)
38 WASHER
37 NUT, ENGINE SPROCKET

These are the parts that are located or clamped togeather between Circlip #24 and the Countershaft sprocket nut #37 The theory, which in follow on years has been substantially proven though wide spread use of the “Loctite Fix” and follow on inspections. Is that wear of the C/S second gear bushing is what causes the “loose” C/S sprocket nut. Users find the C/S nut loose and then tighten the nut, against what is now a worn, mushroomed bushing, this causes bind in the counter shaft. A little may go unnoticed for many miles, a little more bind, and the bushing will seize to the gear, counter shaft or both. Causing hundreds of dollars in repair and possible a crash when the transmission sizes. It's believed the primary cause of second gear bushing wear, is the slight rotation of the sprocket on the counter shaft. There is not an interference fit between the sprocket splines and the counter shaft splines, which is what allows this movement.

TT User Noble and Sargentrab, the original investigators of this issue initially thought the second gear bushing wear /deformation was caused by over tightening the nut...
So we have identified the problem as, loose fit between the C/S sprocket splines and those of the countershaft. Again Noble noted
 
 
This theory was originally derived from inspection of three DRZ transmissions, but has since proven true with many others, to include my own and many I have worked on over the years.

The Fix, or.. How to:

The fix: As the root cause issue is clearance between the C/S splines, and the sprocket the fix is focused on that. Using an Anaerobic threadlocker (AKA Loctite) that cures to thermoset plastic when it comes into contact with metal in the absence of air, used on the splines and C/S threads has been proven on hundreds, if not thousands of DRZ’s to stop the rocking motion of the sprocket and thus the wear of the second gear bushing solving the mystery of the “loosening C/S sprocket nut”

The procedure: What brand or type Anaerobic threadlocker you use is dependent on what is available in your area. The established standard shown to work when done as advised is Loctite brand (Henkel corp) High Strength Thread locker PN 271 263 (NOTE: Henkel corp Updated their product line.. 263 is now the correct product number, replacing 271) .
In the years since this procedure was established we have had two employees from Loctite visit the forums and speak on the use of Anaerobic threadlocker for this application. One company representative stated emphatically the use of a thread locker would not work, he implied we were idiots for trying and wasting our time. When it was pointed out that we had been using Loctite 271 for many months and it in fact did do what we needed. The company rep implied we were idiots and never came back.LOL
The second company representative , had a much better attitude, was very helpful and stated, while he acknowledged our success in using the 271 product, a better option was available. Loctite retaining compound 680 or 638 was recommended.

The problem is, that product was marketed for heavy equipment or  industrial use and not widely available. Some members have not been able to locate these products at any location industrial or not. Others have found 680 or 638 at Farm equipment suppliers (John Deer) or Fastener and bearing suppliers are great places to find Anaerobic threadlocker or retaining products used on heavy equipment or industrial machinery.

Which brings us back to the tried and proven to work commonly available Loctite brand High strength threadlocker 263. This is the product recommended, many other like products will work I’m sure,, If 263 is not available to you,, Choose a like product from another manufacture.

Start with removing the counter shaft nut and sprocket, clean and degrease the threads and splines using brake or contact cleaner. Remove all scale and rust. (Note, on rare occasions the sprocket may be difficult to remove due to rust or corrosion. Or if this is a used bike, a previous owner may have already done the Loctite fix. And the sprocket will likely need a small two jaw puller to remove),

Remove and clean the spacer, and check the O ring behind it and replace. If the spacer is deeply grooved or pitted / rusted. it will need to be replaced, and the seal as well.

Apply 4 drops (More is not better, if you douse the splines and the loctite gets under the spacer and into the seal area, once it sets, the seal can be damaged) of 263 to the splines of the counter shaft, just outboard of where the sprocket will rest once installed. Distribute the drops around the shaft evenly.

The threadlocker tends to wick into the spline gaps, so you really do not need to slather a lot on to get the job done. Install the spacer and o rings onto the C/S, and then the sprocket.

Use a drop of 263 on the counter shaft threads and install the lock washer & C/S nut. Using the chain as a holding tool, tighten the C/S nut to 105 ftlb.

Remove the chain and rotate the countershaft by hand, It should rotate without any binding. Some drag will be present and is expected. If it rotates freely, then you are good to go. Bend the locking washer over, let the thread locker cure for a minimum of 8 hours and go ride. There is a lot more to anaerobic thread sealant and thread lockers, Different types, primers that can be used to prep the surface and or speed cure time. Cure time based on temp, air in contact with the product, type of metal in contact… And that would make a great 20 page thread in the general forum… But the bottom line, no matter what the product data sheet says for Loctite brand High Strength thread locker 263. No matter what a company rep may say. It works in this application.

Removing the sprocket after installing it using Loctite 263: Lastly, we come too, “How do I get this sprocket off, once I have installed it using Loctite 263 to help fix it in place?”

Anaerobic thread sealant does become soft when heated. The problem with heating the counter shaft and sprocket is, there are o ring and a seal that reside right behind that sprocket which might be damaged by the heat. So go easy.
Use heat on the nut to soften the thread lock, then remove the nut.
Then;
The simplest method I and others have found to remove the sprocket is to use a small two or three jaw gear puller. Commonly available from most any automotive tool supply house, or Sears for that matter. . Rent or buy the puller, it’s a good tool investment.

Using the chain and rear brake as a holding tool, flatten the lock washer, and remove the C/S nut. If you use an impact gun to remove the nut, make sure the transmission is not in gear.

Remove the chain, and place the puller jaws over the sprocket. Make sure the puller screw is centered in the counter shaft. Apply some pressure to the puller. If you use an air impact gun, the sprocket will come right off. If your using a ratchet or wrench, tighten the puller, then give the center screw a light rap with a dead blow hammer.. The sprocket will break free and can now be removed.

New or updated information and products would always be welcome. So if you have something new, quote this thread and start a new one. Let’s discuss it and see what comes up. Thanks. Thanks for looking, Fix that loose sprocket and go ride. I’d like to thank Noble and Sargentrab for their original work in discovering what was causing this problem, and devising a solution that has been proven with the test of time.

Parts required for the repair of a leaking counter shaft seal are:

SEAL, DRIVE SHAFT OIL 09283-30053
SPACER, ENGINE SPROCKET 27531-29F00
O RING (D:2.5,ID:21) 09280-21008

Often the screws holding the seal retainer are damaged if you attempt removal without first heating them to 250c to loosen any thread locking compound, and do not use an impact screwdriver. If danged and need be replaced,they are BOLT, RETAINER (6X14) 09126-06007
However they can be replaced with common hardware, countersunk screw, grade 8.8 and above 6mm x 14mm
Replacement nut and washer are:
ENG SPROCKET WASHER 09167-22012
ENGINE SPROCKET NUT 09140-18006
If you just a complete parts kit, here's one from All Balls (also sold under the brands of MSR and Moose):
https://www.thumpertalk.com/shop/All-Balls-Counter-Shaft-Seal-Kit-p4797952.html

Long time Local Fast guy Fred Andrews will be Managing the new Kawasaki Offroad team out of a Big Rig this season. 
KTM and Husqvarna are the dominant players in the off-road racing game, but there was a time when brands like Kawasaki, Suzuki, and Yamaha ruled the roost through the rocks and roots. But when several Japanese brands shuttered their programs during the global recession of the late 2000s, the European marques doubled down on off-road. For 2019, Kawasaki has revived its old Team Green off-road squad, shifting the Monster Energy Babbitt's Online Kawasaki team from the now-defunct Amsoil Arenacross series into Grand National Cross Country. Fred Andrews spent nearly a decade racing GNCC for Team Green, and then ran the factory program until it closed. Now that Kawasaki is back, so is Fast Freddie, who will run the outfit along with the Babbitt's team. In this podcast, Jason Weigandt calls up Andrews for tales of building the new team, and also some old war stories from his racing days.
The Racer X Exhaust Podcast is presented by Yoshimura.

 
Here is the RacerX Podcast with Fred if you want more info about it.