Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

WR Suspension rebuild 250 450


TOSHIE

How to disassemble and re assemble your WR suspension in the kitchen!

A friend came to me asking if I could change the oil in his forks and give

them some new seals, I took on the job. :bonk:

Having never touched my own I had to do a wee bit of research on how to

go about it with out all the especial tools referred to in the owners manual.

After a lengthy search of the internet I found there was nothing of any help

for the WR owner, so I was on my own.

With the forks on the bench I proceeded by removing the top cap and

removing the spring and draining the oil.

Then the owners manual said insert special tool 1million-XYZ and screw the

bottom valve out with special tool 2million-XYZ. the pictures in the

workshop manual showed a long rod(1million-XYZ) reaching to the bottom of

the fork tube and locking/holding on to some thing so you can turn the

bottom valve out with that 2million-XYZ tool.

I was stuffed and could not figure out how to do any of this wiv out

scratching/scoring/damaging the vital internals of my forks wiv some thing

I was going to dodge/fabricate up.

After a few beers and some time thinking... :thinking:

I realized I could put the spring back in and top cap back on then

compress/squash the fork down. This then held what ever it was inside so

I could turn the bottom valve out with the 2million-XYZ tool.

I then found some scrap hex bar laying in my shed and ground it down to

the size of the huge hex socket that was on the bottom of the fork leg, this

was my version of the special tool 2million-XYZ. I then inserted this hex bar

into my rattle gun and was able to spin the bottom valve but I could not

get enough pressure on the spring by squashing the fork to hold what

was inside and screw this bottom valve out.

Another beer... :thinking:

BINGO!

Tie-down, was the answer...

I lashed a retched tie-down around the fork and hung the hook ends of the

axle bolt to free up the bottom of the fork leg to get at the bottom valve with

my custom hex/allen-key & rattle gun.

I then cranked up the pressure on the tie-down to apply enough pressure on

the spring inside holding the internals still so I could screw the bottom valve out.

bingo I had the freaking thing disassembled, well down to a point that every

thing els in the work shop manual could show me what to do :smirk:

From hear I precoded to replace the fork seals and dust caps before reassembling,

again compressing the forks the same way to install the bottom valve again.

I later found I could have bought the hex/allen-key tool of eBay that screws the

bottom valve in/out for $15 witch I would have been happy to pay for.this tool

and my ground down hex bar can be used with a normal ratchet so you don't

need a rattle gun if you don't have one.

There a plenty of posts on the internet for custom made seal drivers such

as PVC pipe cut in half to replace the $60-80 special tool you will find on eBay

so I will not go into seal drivers and seal removal/replacement.

I have added a few photos bellow to show how I used the tie-down to compress

the fork and the special tool you can buy of eBay to remove the bottom valve

as reference.

I hope this post inspires some one to go ahead and give it a go, if you have the

littlest bit of patients and some basic tolls you will be FINE! :thumbsup:

I hope this helps some one as it would have made me feel better knowing a

novice had done it before me wiv little or so problems.

Oh yeah, my mates bike rides fine after my bush mechanic skills had taken me

through his forks :banana:

Good luck and enjoy!

Sign in to follow this  


User Feedback

Recommended Comments

There are no comments to display.



Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


  • Similar Content

    • By fudgypup
      Garrett Poucher and Skyler Howes of Garrett Offroad Racing are headed to Dakar!  These US privateers are headed there for their first times but Skyler is fresh off a victory at last week's Baja Rally, won the Sonora Rally in March and this team placed third in the Baja 1000.

      They have a fundraising link set up and could use your help.
      I raced with Garrett at Baja Rally last year and then both of them at Sonora and was honored to pit with them as well.  They're both super guys and work their assess off.  I think they both have good chances of not only finishing the 11 days of Dakar but placing well.
      They're doing some rally training events this Sat, Oct 20 in Santa Clarita, CA and then another Oct 28th in St. George Utah so if you've ever considered learning rally raid navigation, this is your chance!  It's a lot of fun too.  More info on that at the link.
    • By wpp1000
      Whenever I start my ttr230 I have to have no choke, or very little. If It has some choke even when cold it will rev up a small bit then die off. What could the cause be? I have the 38 and 130 jets in it. does this mean it is running lean or rich, or something completely different. The bike still runs perfectly it just takes a little bit to get it started.
    • By smokey9lives
      Hi,
      I have a 2003 DRZ (actually a KLX400) and the head tube bearings are shot.  I ordered a new set to install but I'm wondering if anyone has any recommendations on other parts I should replace while I have the front disassembled.  I was thinking about new rubber fork protectors, but are there other things that wear out on the DRZ front ends that you can only get to when disassambled?
      I also broke off a replacement key that I got for the steering lock.  I must have been made of cheap pot-metal.  Should I just remove the whole lock mechanism?
      Any tips or tricks for getting the old bearings out and the new ones in would be welcome!
      Thanks!
    • By hondahondo
      A few picks of my winter project.













    • By Big64N
      Good condition with a long list of high end upgrade parts.
      Rekluse EXP 3.0 with cover and slave
      EVO- Ellensburg suspension tuning for 6' 200# expert rider
      Fork bleeders
      Trail-tech map switch
      Moose 1-1/8 flex bar
      CYCRA probend bar guards
      SXS skid plate with linkage plate
      Clutch and water pump guards
      Frame guards
      Fastway Evolution III pegs
      SRT Pro Armor radiator and rear rotor guards
      Acerbic Front rotor guard
      TM designs chain guides
      DID race chain
      Renthal sprockets
      Gripper seat
      FMF F-bomb header
      Dirt Tricks timing chain tensioner
      Pro Wheel, wheels
      Tubliss front and rear
      New top end and valve adjustment 60 hours old
      Many more aftermarket parts as well as spare parts and service manuals included in the sale.  Willing to include 4 sets of tires with 80% tread left for full price.
      Great bike with plenty of life left and set up for anything from single track woods to wide open dessert.
      Can hang with any of the 450's but is much easier to handle in the tight woods.
      Priced to sell at $6000.00 
      Willing to consider reasonable offers but no trades or carry.
×