At 620 miles, KTM wants you to change out the 20 micron in-line fuel filter. The procedures are not listed in the owner's manual, but I was able to figure it out with another rider's youtube video and working my way through it. Husqvarna 701 Enduro and Super Moto owners, to access the fuel line & filter, all you need to remove is the left side radiator shroud and side panel. It's a little tight working inside the frame tubing, but totally doable and much easier that the KTM.
You can complete this job with everything in your factory tool kit, save a small pick for removing the factory installed fuel filter.
KTM part number 78141013190
The 2017 KTM 690 Enduro R airbox must be removed to access the fuel line. It is held in place with 4 rubber spacers with threaded inserts, 2 front and 2 rear. The two rear bolts and front left are easy-peezy to pull, but the front right took a little patience. You must first remove the two voltage regulator bolts to to reveal an access hole in the plastic trim. However, at least on my bike, the main wiring harness was in the way, so I had to push it aside carefully with a small screwdriver while threading the bolt out, being careful to not let it fall into some PITA to remove crevice or falling onto the floor and rolling into the hardware Bermuda Triangle. Later in the process, I removed the airbox lid to make getting the complete airbox off the bike easier, so in hindsight, doing so allows you to move the wiring harness out of the way with your fingers from the inside of the frame cradle.
Access hole behind voltage regulator for the front/right airbox mounting bolt.
Two front mounting locations for the aibox from inside the frame.
Once the 4 airbox mounting bolts are out, all that's left is to disconnect the breather hose on the left side behind the radiator shroud, the sensor plug at the tail-end of the airbox, and loosen the hose clamps that connect the rubber airboot to the throttle body intake bell. KTM was kind enough to orient the upper hose clamp in a way that I couldn't get a flat blade screw drive on squarely. But, I was able to loosen it via nose picker method with a 6mm open end wrench. Note: before you separate the airbox boot from the throttle body, not a bad idea to use a little compressed air to remove any loose dirt or sand that might fall into your intake. My airbox came out fairly easy with a little wiggling and pulling with moderate at best force. You shouldn't have to be pull hard for it to come out. I started by tipping up the front of the airbox, pulling it rearward, then working it side-to-side.
With the airbox removed, stuff a clean, wadded up paper towel into the throttle body intake bell so that nothing makes its way in. Below is what you're looking for... Can't miss it really. Squeeze the metal tab and pull the two sections of hose apart. I put a few folded paper towels below the filter because I wasn't sure how much fuel might leak out, but it was minimal.
Press metal tab and pull to separate the ends of the fuel line.
There isn't much if anything to grab to pull the old filter out of the fuel hose, so I made a small pick out of a finish nail that worked like a charm. Be sure the new filter is fully seated in the line and you'll know that your line connection is solid when you hear & feel a "click".
Buttoning things back up is simply the reverse of that you just completed, but a few tips... Put a LIGHT film of WD-40 in the inside lip of the airbox rubber intake boot and on the outer edge of the throttle body intake bell. I sprayed the lube on a clean cotton swap to apply it. You don't need much, but it will help the rubber airboot slide back into place more easily. I pre-positioned both hose clamps so I could easily get a screwdriver on them through the frame openings. You only need to tighten them JUST enough to hold their position. Once you begin to push the rubber boot onto the intake bell, you'll likely have to loosen the hose clamps slightly as the rubber spreads. To seat the rubber boot fully, push forward and slightly down. You'll feel when it has slid into place, but you should also visually verify it.
Off the bike.
On the bike. For the upper hose clamp, try to orient it for airbox clearance, but also so you can get a screwdriver on it reasonably square.
The first time is always the slowest, but having done this once, I bet I could do it in half the time on the next go around. Hopefully I've given anyone interested a few tips/tricks that will help make your first time as easy as possible. Hit me up in the comment section below if you have any questions or if you have anything to add. I'm a decent wrench, but hardly a pro. If I've missed something or done it the hard way, I'm appreciative of constructive criticism.
All the best!
Bryan Bosch (690 ER) & Steve Claus (701 E) - #dualsportduo