How to degree cams.

This thread is for reference only. It is not a substitution for the service manual or common sense. Use these instructions at your own risk.

So I took it upon myself to learn (with the help of this forum and much thanks to Eddie) how to degree a set of camshafts. Here is as detailed as I can make the process.

You will want to remove the spark plug and remove the head cover as if you were preparing for a valve lash check. You can view the thread on how to check your valve clearances HERE. Make sure to clean all appropriate surfaces the best you can, so that dirt doesn't drop into the head as you work on the motor.

First, you need to make sure that your cams are set as close to their stock position as possible. This would mean, putting your motor at the TDC mark on the flywheel.

Next, set the exhaust cam with the "1" facing the right, "2" pointing straight up and "3" pointing to the left. Here is a pic of the stock cam placement.

From there count over, 15 pins on your cam chain, starting at the "2" on the exhaust cam. You DO include the pin that the "2" on the exhaust cam is pointing at. On the 15th pin is where the "3" on your intake cam should be set. Use the picture above for the stock cam pin placement.

Tighten down the cam journal bolts to spec and prepare for the next step.

You will need some specific tools for this job. Degreeing your camshafts is an intricate part of motor tuning. Any miscalculations and you will put your self at risk of a catastrophic engine failure. The tools can be purchased in a kit from HotCams or WebCam. It would be their Cam Degree Kit. I have the HotCams degree kit. The kit consists of a degree wheel three positive piston stops

a dial indicator

and an adjustable stand for the indicator

It has been suggested that a better stand would be this type which is a Vise Grip with an arm on it that can be contorted to fit just about any angle you will need to achieve in this project.

To begin the cam degree process, find the TDC mark on your flywheel using the inspection hole in the magneto cover. Fashion a rigid pointer from stiff wire or an old coat hanger and attach it to the engine block. I used one of the bolts that are on the intake side of the head.This pointer locates the degrees on the degree wheel.

Next remove the magneto cover and secure the magneto cover out of the way with a zip tie. Use a 17mm socket and an impact wrench to remove the nut that is on the end of the crank

Use four washers including the washer under the nut, the same size as the one that was under the nut, to shim out the nut and reinstall the nut on the shaft. Start the nut by hand and then torque down to about 25 lbs of torque.

Now, install the Degree wheel from the HotCams degree kit over the nut.

I found it helpful to use some duct tape so that I had a snug fit over the nut.

You want the TDC "0" on the degree wheel to be exactly pointing at the piece of wire you had fashioned to the head somewhere.

You do not have to have the "0" on the degree wheel pointing straight up to match the TDC mark on the flywheel. Just as long as you "0" on the degree wheel is always going to return to the wire pointer for a constant.

Now that you have the Degree wheel set at approximate TDC, turn the degree wheel back about 30-35 degrees and install the correct positive piston stop into the spark plug hole.

Make sure to seat the piston stop fully. Now rotate the crank, using a 17mm socket and a stationary breaker bar (using a breaker bar lets you have more control over the motor as it turns past the valves being fully open. The springs tend to want to push the motor over and using a ratcheting socket wrench would allow the motor to turn freely) turn the engine until the piston comes back up and just touches the piston stop. Make a note of the exact number on the degree wheel that the pointer is on.

Rotate the engine in the other direction until the piston comes back up and touches the piston stop. Again note the number where the pointer is. You want the numbers to be the same on either side of the rotation. So if you have 32 on one side and 30 on the other, you adjust the degree wheel so that you get equal values on both sides of the rotation. Do not move the crankshaft to adjust the degree wheel. Only move the degree wheel to adjust for your proper numbers.

When you have the exact umbers on either side of the rotation, go back and check it again, and then do it again. Better safe than sorry. When you are absolutely sure that you have the same numbers on either side of the rotation, you have found True Top Dead Center. You can now remove the piston stop from the spark plug hole and rotate the crank counterclockwise, setting the degree wheel to "0" using your wire pointer. It is important to note that the running rotation of the DRZ motor is to turn the crank COUNTER CLOCKWISE. Proceed to the step in the process.

Use a pencil, paper and arithmetic for this procedure, to keep track of the results.

Now, it's time to locate the lobe centerline relative to TDC. Attach a dial indicator on the top of the engine block

Set the tip to contact the top of the inlet valve bucket. Check to make sure that the indicator needle is parallel to the valve stem. NOTE - any variance in an angle will produce geometric errors in the lift readings. Also, never turn the crank in the opposite rotation than the running rotation. Turning the crank clockwise, unloads the cam chain and will give you inaccurate readings on your degree wheel. Check your numbers at least 3 or 4 times.

Zero out your dial indicator with enough movement in the needle to read .050" or 1mm of lift when the valve begins to open and as it comes to a close. Rotate the engine in the normal direction of rotation (counter clockwise) until a reading on the dial gage of 0.050" lift is reached

This number represents the lift of the valves Before Top Dead Center (BTDC). (Valve will start to open) Mark the dial gage and make a note of the reading on the degree wheel.

Continue to turn the engine in the normal direction past maximum lift. The valve will now return to its close position. Make a note of the degree wheel reading when the indicator reads 0.050" on the return side.

This will be the number for the lift After Bottom Dead Center (ABDC).

Now add the two numbers that you have found on the degree wheel to each other, add 180 to that number, divide the new number by two and subtract the smaller of the two numbers that you had noted from the degree wheel. This number is you lobe center. So in the pictured scenario, your values would be 45.5 (opening) degrees and 4.5 (closing) degrees. You equation would be 45.5 + 4.5 + 180 = 230..... 230 divided by 2 = 115..... 115 - 4.5 = 110.5. Your cam lobe center would be 110.5 degrees. Now you will want to check your math and readings at least 3 or more times. And it wouldn't be a bad idea to recheck TDC in the middle of the process.

You want your lobe centers for the DRZ to be 108 on the intake cam and 104 on the exhaust cam. If your lobe centers are off, you will have to loosen the adjustable sprocket bolts on your cams and slightly adjust the cams. I used an impact ratchet to loosen the bolts and a set of 10mm wrenches to do any adjustments from there.

This process is a lot of trial and error. But with patience, it will pay off.

Once you have achieved the proper lobe center on the intake cam. You should recheck TDC using the method explained above and proceed to the exhaust cam. The process of degreeing the exhaust cam is the exact same as for the intake cam. Only make sure you check your math and values several times. When you have achieved the proper lobe center on your exhaust cam, go back and check both your intake and exhaust cams to see if the lobe centers are correct. When you are certain that your math, values and degrees are correct, install red locktite on the sprocket bolts and torque the bolts to spec. You have successfully degreed your camshafts.

You can now remove the nut from the crank, remove the three extra washers, reinstall the nut, magneto cover, head cover and any other pieces you may have removed for access. And consider yourself degreed.

Another great resource for learning to do this process is the Myzzy article,written by Doug Meyer. You can reference that article here.

Thanks to Eddie and some others for encouraging me to write this article. Mind you that this is for information prposes only. Should you attempt to degree your cams by your self, you would be totally responsable for any damage that could occur from an improper process. Make sure to do your homework, read through the article several time, read the Muzzy's article several times and even go over the process in your head. My point is, be prepared and don't try to do this job an hour before you go riding. If you rush things you may forget something and it would probably cost you a new motor at the least.

Enjoy,

Kevin VanOver

KVO, this is a very clear and detailed write-up. Thank you!

Can you explain when and why this needs to be done. Is this the only way to set up adjustable cams?

Good Job, Kevin. I will not repond to Harry's question as this thread is all and should be all you.

FYI, there were a few small typos... Had to get a dig in, didn't I!

The term "Degreeing In Your Camshaft" means you are making sure the camshaft's position in the engine coincides with that of the crankshaft, so that their rotation is synchronized. This is the only way you will know if the rise and fall of the pistons properly matches the opening and closing of the valves, so the engine will run properly. A few degrees of misalignment can affect the engine's operation dramatically.

If the circumstances were perfect, one would only need to line up the marks on the timing chain sprockets and the cam would be degreed. In reality, you are dealing with a group of components (the camshaft, crankshaft, timing chain, and sprockets), all with their own standards and tolerances. If these tolerances stack up against you, it could throw you out of alignment. Without degreeing the cam you can never be sure that the parts are in correct position. If you have the tools and expertise, we always recommend that the camshaft's position in the engine be degreed in.

this was a quote from cranecams.com

Submit it here now https://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=438810

Then it can be added nicely to the list!

The term "Degreeing In Your Camshaft" means you are making sure the camshaft's position in the engine coincides with that of the crankshaft, so that their rotation is synchronized. This is the only way you will know if the rise and fall of the pistons properly matches the opening and closing of the valves, so the engine will run properly. A few degrees of misalignment can affect the engine's operation dramatically.

If the circumstances were perfect, one would only need to line up the marks on the timing chain sprockets and the cam would be degreed. In reality, you are dealing with a group of components (the camshaft, crankshaft, timing chain, and sprockets), all with their own standards and tolerances. If these tolerances stack up against you, it could throw you out of alignment. Without degreeing the cam you can never be sure that the parts are in correct position. If you have the tools and expertise, we always recommend that the camshaft's position in the engine be degreed in.

this was a quote from cranecams.com

Good definition.

Degreeing cams is basically that of above.

You need proper valve to piston clearance. If you degree your cams in you assure that the clearance is optimal.

You can also play with advanement and retardation. Advancing or retarding a cam, consists of moving the lobe center forward or backward in it's timing in relation to the piston position. Doing this is a way to taylor the motors performance to a persons specific riding style or for specific riding conditions.

Say that you wantd to have more bottom end for heavy woods riding. You wold be needing to stick a gear and open up the throttle at a verry low RPM, so obviously you would want more power down low and it would be a waste to have your cams degreed for top end performance. You would retard the intake a few degrees and advance the exhaust slightly. This would widen the powerband but give you less performance up top. Here is what the Muzzy article says about it,

"Very generally speaking, the effect of moving lobe centers is as follows:

Advancing the intake and retarding the exhaust (“closing up the centers”) increases overlap and should move the power up in the RPM range, usually at the sacrifice of bottom end power. The result would be lower numerical values on both intake and exhaust lobe centers.

Retarding the intake and advancing the exhaust (“spreading the centers”) decreases overlap and should result in a wider power band at the sacrifice of some top end power. This condition would be indicated by higher numerical values on both intake and exhaust lobe centers. By moving only one cam the results are less predictable, but usually it is the intake that is moved to change power characteristics since small changes here seem to have a greater effect. With twin cam engines we have the luxury of moving the cams independently."

Quite a neat process if you ask me.

Say that you wantd to have more bottom end for heavy woods riding. You wold be needing to stick a gear and open up the throttle at a verry low RPM, so obviously you would want more power down low and it would be a waste to have your cams degreed for top end performance. You would retard the intake a few degrees and advance the exhaust slightly. This would widen the powerband but give you less performance up top.

So you or I order HotCams, and they say they are pre-degreed from factory. So really that would mean to there spec engine? And yours and mine will be different,and should be degreed to our powerplant.

Every engine is different. "pre-degreed" means it is set close (maybe exactly) for what your engine needs. As is previously mentioned, various parts when assembled, can have slight differences. Tolerances means a part is in between a certain range. Your bike could have everything perfect, could have a few tolerances to one way a few to another ending perfect or.... You could have all your tolerances to one extreme. In this case, your cams would NOT be set ideally. Only way to know and be sure is to have them degreed.

What William said is true.

So you or I order HotCams, and they say they are pre-degreed from factory. So really that would mean to there spec engine? And yours and mine will be different,and should be degreed to our powerplant.

If the company says they are "PRE DEGREED" I would doubt that you cams are set to function at optimal performance. As stated in a previous thread (here), the companies are sometimes off. The best possible performance can be had from your cams by having them degreed.

Eddie can degree cams on a mock-up motor that he has. That specific way of degreeing cams is 99% accurate. And if you wanted Ed to degree in more bottom end or more top end, he would be able to do so.

But this is Eddie we are talking about. Not just anyone should mess with the lobe center line of the camshafts. It is an engine tuning process and should be approached with extreme caution and care. It wouldn't be a bad idea after a few hours of running the bike after the cams have been degreed, to open up the head and make sure the bolts are still at torque specs.

I can't over emphasize how intricate of a detail this is in the function of your motor. You cams are the coronary arteries of the bike. If they are out of sync or open/close at the wrong time, you get a cardiac arrest. Your bike will die and I don't mean stall.

Approach any details such as these with EXTREME CAUTION!!!!!!!!!

Do you remember the exhaust opening and closing figures?

Thanks

dan

KVO this was a very well documented instruction. You managed to explain this in a manner that can be understood and should be fairly easily followed. I would feel confident following your directions. But like you stated several times it is best to check and double check your work and not to be in a hurry to finish.

Nice write up! However I dont think I'll be doing it anytime soon:crazy: Looks like if you attempt this it would be good to lock yourself in the garage, turn off the phone and keep all beer safely out of reach.

NIce write up all the same, thx.

Here's a question some might want to know. If you are installing E cams with gears directly from an E motor into your S/SM, do you need to degree them?

Stock cams are a pressed fit on the gears and are non adjustable. Lookat the first pic in the thread. No bolts, no slotted gears, no way to alter..

quick question?

Do I need to pull the motor to degree my cams on my DRZ400??

Great write up!! Easy to read and understand. After reading the article I am now convinced that should my drz ever need cams degreed for any reason I am sending the motor to Eddie. Not that I couldnt do the process but I know that this is something id rather leave to the master who has done it countless ti,es and has it all figured out. If I ever had a gun to my head and HAD to degree cams I would want this write up beside my tools but until then...Eddie for me

quick question?

Do I need to pull the motor to degree my cams on my DRZ400??

No, can be done in frame

quick question?

Do I need to pull the motor to degree my cams on my DRZ400??

Nope, You may have to pull the alternator cover to attach the degree wheel. I made a tool that go's thru the plug on the side of the alt. cover to save me the trouble.

Nope, You may have to pull the alternator cover to attach the degree wheel. I made a tool that go's thru the plug on the side of the alt. cover to save me the trouble.

What procedure do you use to stop the Flywheel from turning when removing/re-torquing the retaining nut, given you cant hold the flywheel with the stator cover on ?