E Headpipe used with S/SM muffler

The E head pipe bit larger (about 1/4") thus providing a little more flow, thus the reason for this exercise.

A while back I acquired a complete E and a complete S/SM exhaust system. I wanted to retain my original exhaust too,, just in case.

My goal was to use the larger E head pipe and a S/SM muffler. I did not want to deal with a modification to the stock lower muffler mount and I wanted to retain (as lame as it is) the little heat guard on top of the S/SM muffler.

A E head pipe will not fit an S/SM muffler gasket. A lot of guys have done away with the OEM gasket between the muffler and header, filling the gap with sheet metal or (I shudder to think) spooge. To me, an unacceptable solution. I decided to have the joint expanded.

A quick visit to a good muffler place and in about five minutes, my S/SM muffler join was the same as the E one. I can use an E gasket, E head pipe on the S/SM muffler, all factory.

Some of the threads I read inferred the pipe lengths were different. I thought so too. I was going to have the shop cut the E header pipe, about 1/2" off. The guy suggested I try it first as it looked good the way it was. I got home and test fitted. I am so glad I did not cut it! Perfect fit! We did remove the stop ring and on retrospect, that did not have to be done. Unfortunately, the removal process caused the ring to expand and when reinstalled was too loose so I'll be disposing of it.

My next concern was the heat shield. Again, threads I have read led me to think the heat shields and bolt spacing was different. During my test fitting, I found they lined up perfectly. Nothing to deal with there!

So, my learning today proved a E head pipe can fit "OEM' style with a $5.00 visit to the muffler store.

Simply get a E exhaust mid gasket. Make sure you get a E header to muffler clamp. The S/SM is too small.

Bring the S/SM muffler to the shop with your new clamp and E gasket.

Have them put the clamp loosely on the muffler. Put the muffler on the expanding machine. Expand a little, try the gasket. Loosen the clamp a tiny amount. Keep repeating till the gasket 'just' fits.

You want the clamp on the muffler as this is being done, Not tight, but just enough to hold it in place. This causes the expansion to be even. Without it, because of the slots in the pipe, it will want to flare out.

I have a few more things to do before this new/used header and muffler go on my bike. I have ordered a stainless steel O2 bung and plug and am waiting on them. Once I get them it is off to the machine shop to get it TIG'd on. Then I am sending it off to Jet Hot for ceramic coating, inside and out - OEM flat black.

Just curious...what you putting in the O2 bung?

Sensor for A/F meter?

You know what...that's not a bad idea, probably would not need a wide-band and sure would help with jetting/tuning...hmmm

The O2 bung will just be for fine tuning using a wide band. Onced tuned, I'll put the bung plug in. Will only put the sensor back in to check or adjust to suit any changes.

Do you think you need the wideband?

I have a cheap one here that I bought for my car and never used, or would it be just a waste of time w/o wideband?

Pretty damn good idea ?

Well, from what I have read, it makes a worthwhile investment. I am also not interested in in actually looking at the gauge,I want to log a ride/dyno run then analyze the results to tune optimally. So, sadly, I have to bite the bullet on this. I just hope it does not become outdated!

Just a thought but you could potentially "rent" it to buddies or trustworthy members here who want to do the same without the large investment and possibly get some/most of your money back? I know some of the ones I have seen for race car calibration are upwards of $500-$600.

Would be nice to be able to rent it out or loan to my pals, but... I'd be afraid of it being damaged by 'renters' and as everyone on TT knows, I have no friends! Actually I do, but they all live hundreds of miles away.

The value it will provide is enable to get the tuning spot on or really close without a dyno, thus saving me dyno/shop fees. I'll be able to tune it at my leisure, then do a dyno run to ensure I am right. After a successful dyno run, I'll run it again on the street, comparing numbers/charts back to the dyno run. Any variation, I'll keep in mind if I make a change. Should enable me to re-jet without a dyno pretty accuartely.

William, you will like the Jet Hot coating. I did the header on my stock pipe, silver, not flat black, and it holds up well, and is easier to clean, and keeps the temps down! In my opinion it is well worth it! ?

I think so too. I have had stuff 'Jet Hotted' before and was pleased. At the very least, no more 'magical rust' appearing at any weld.

LOL, I have used pipes I am working with. A few scratches here and there. Sure Flat Black Stove paint would cover them, but that stuff only lasts so long. I used to have to redo pipes once or twice a year. Hopefully, this will be a one time deal.

You know that we will require photos at some point, right?

Oh, I know. If I do not post them, Neil will fry me.

I'll do a picture right after the bung is welded and some after coating then a few after install.

I think we're going to have to take up a collection and bring Neil across the pond for an extended holiday! I feel the need to hoist a pint or two with him. ?

He'll scold me in person. Not sure I can survive that!

?

Just wait until he finds this thread!

Hey nice timing Will i just tried fitting an E exhaust on my S for the bigger E header. as you mentioned the e muffler needs some modification to fit nicely like the S muffler does.

I will try your method of expanding the S muffler at the clamp to the header pipe

Make sure you have the E muffler to pipe gasket and the E clamp. The S/SM ones are too small.

That's great news, thanks for the excellent tips!

The jet hot and the wide band will be way cool.

I think I should wait out the 'E' pipe until I'm ready to build up an engine.

Doing a E pipe mod will help a stocker too, no point in waiting.

I suggest keeping an eye out for E pipes for sale or putting a WTB add in the TT classifieds. You will only need the header, clamp between the header and the muffler and slip joint gasket. But.. if you buy someones complete system, you will also get the endcap, a nice this to have a spare of if you decide to mod it, you have a backup.

My head pipe is at the welders today getting the bung on, the wide band has been ordered (wife getting it for me as a B'day gift-She must really want something!) and hopefully, the exhaust will be in the mail to Jet Hot before weeks' end. I doubt the Seat O' the Pants meter will notice any difference. I did not notice a difference when the E cams went in either. Doing this stuff one at a time is such small incremental performance enhancements. The FCR (with a K&N) was a big, noticable change though. In a month or so, I will finally get to a place that has a dyno and get a baseline for my mildly mod'd bike. I'll be able to compare that to the guesstimate totally stock engine. I figure a stocker S/SM makes about 33Hp and I should be close to 40 now.

"I doubt the Seat O' the Pants meter will notice any difference" William1.

Once you get it back and running let us know for sure.