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Is gasket sealer 100% nessacary?

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If you've been following whats up with me, most of you have, I finally got around to taking the bike apart again today. Ring end gap was around .13. I got it up to roughly .28 or .29. I re read the head gasket installation instructions and it said to use a quality gasket sealer. Off to the autoparts store. I tell the man what I need and he reccomends me this bottle. So I get that, grab a spare plug just because, and some type f and head out the door. No more than $20. I get home and read the back of the bottle..."GASKET MAKER. Not reccomended for use for head gaskets or any parts contacting gasoline."

...great. thanks. So does the head gasket require sealant? If it does ill just return the bottle tommorrow. What would you reccomend for gasket sealer? thanks.

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Nope, no sealant required. Just make sure you torque head to spec in proper sequence. After initial run retorque to spec.

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Still no manual?

No you don't need gasket sealer on your head joint, but you should replace the gasket once it's been squished, even if you havn't run it. You might get away with re-using it, but you could have taken the cylinder off without disturbing the head gasket.

As for gasket sealer i'd recommend; Hylomar, it was developed for rolls royce for their turbine engines as is squashes flush with the mating surfaces but doesn't cause tolerance issues, i wouldn't put it anywhere near a head gasket though

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Follow the recommendations from the maker of the gasket. If they say use sealer on the head gasket then use it. This is what I use when it is needed for head gaskets.

2359961-1-m.jpg

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Spotless should be fine (That is how the OEM does it). However...

Aluminum paint works but....the Copper Coat is the right thing to use. It is an extra step the OEM's usually can get away with out doing but, if you do use it, it WILL NOT LEAK unless you have a warped head or barrel.

I spray on two light coats the night before (12 to 18 hours before build time). Gave a surgically clean barrel and head gasket surface, nary a finger print.

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good call ss109: permatex is a good brand, they make a very fine paste gasket sealer almost like water, i use it on fuel pumps, but it's nasty stuff, good for fuel gear and putting it in the workboots of an unpopular collegue.

i highly recommend dry though, with the heat your top end will be going through plus the excess squished into the coolant passages.

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good call ss109: permatex is a good brand, they make a very fine paste gasket sealer almost like water, i use it on fuel pumps, but it's nasty stuff, good for fuel gear and putting it in the workboots of an unpopular collegue.

i highly recommend dry though, with the heat your top end will be going through plus the excess squished into the coolant passages.

No sealant it is. Well at least I have a bottle of gasket maker to spare now.

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IMO, you need to do what the OEM manual recommends. we're talking 2 strokes here, but just as an example some 4 stroke car mfg specify sealant only in certain areas of the headgasket, sometimes a spray, sometimes a silicone type sealant, sometimes around many passages, some times only 1 area. just my experience, RTM.

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No sealant it is. Well at least I have a bottle of gasket maker to spare now.

that sure was difficult. :jawdrop:

Edited by argclh6670

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Follow the recommendations from the maker of the gasket. If they say use sealer on the head gasket then use it. This is what I use when it is needed for head gaskets.

2359961-1-m.jpg

This guy knows what's up!

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