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650l oil and rpm limits

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first question is what temperature to check the oil at? i have read that people say check it at operating temperature. does this meanthe oil should be a the full mark when checked after a ride?

or should the dip stick read full at room temperature?

I recently bought my XRL and was doing a oil change and wanted to make sure I filled it back up correctly.

the second questionI have is about RPMs

what do these bikes red line at?

I have a vapor computer on mine it seems that when im cruising the rpms stay around 9000-11000. is this to much ? the bike doesn't seem to be straining.

In some cases I switch gears to knock down the RPMs and the bike shutters like crazy so i go back to the lower gear.

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High RPM's are not your friend on a thumper. But you will find the low RPM tork is!!!!

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I insist your vapor is wonky there is no way in hell you can cruise at 9 to11k

he said cruising...Im assuming thats in the 65 to 85mph range...unless your geared at 13/50 you are just no where near the rpms your stating

check oil level after every ride...in other words at least 30 minutes you top off after every ride if needed that way you are good to go next ride

AVOID topiing off or checking level cold

check your oil level the SAME way always..that way you have a system that works for your particular engine...

Edited by elsalvadorXR6
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something is wrong with your vapor or engine if you can get to 11k!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

x 2!!! :crazy: or maybe x .5??? :thinking:

Here's the deal.... :prof:

You need to set your vapor up correctly. The spark system on the XR sparks every rotation but fires ever other rotation. It is known as a waste spark system.

Divide by two to get the real reading... :smirk:

:cheers:

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EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG

ZACTLY!!!!!!!!!!!

I had this issue sometimes as a pedal bike mechanic when guys would say they are going 90mph downhill...and Id be like, NO dude

you didnt setup your speedo, i.e calibrate it...there are numbers for every wheel circumference, etc....

anywhoo

like money tnt is on it...

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oilk.jpg

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You really need to get a manual. To check the oil you warm the bike up a bit..Take it for a five minute ride. When you return shut the bike down..wait 20 seconds. Remain seated and keep the bike in an upright position,,ie..level..Unscrew the dipstick,,wipe it with a rag,,insert it back in the hole but don't screw it home..Remove dipstick and check the level,,Top up as needed..A full oil change is much the same except you put one litre or whatever you guys deal in measurement wise in the dipstick hole,,then start the bike,,Allow it to idle for 20 seconds,,shut it down again and put the remainder of the oil in the dipstick hole. Take it for a run round the block and do as above,,ie check the level when you get back,,Top up as required. So I guess in answer to your question the oil is checked when the bikes hot..

Edited by Horri
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thanks you all for the fast replies,

I insist your vapor is wonky there is no way in hell you can cruise at 9 to11k

he said cruising...Im assuming thats in the 65 to 85mph range...unless your geared at 13/50 you are just no where near the rpms your stating

check oil level after every ride...in other words at least 30 minutes you top off after every ride if needed that way you are good to go next ride

AVOID topiing off or checking level cold

check your oil level the SAME way always..that way you have a system that works for your particular engine...

you are correct im cruising at around 60 when my comp is saying my rpms are 9500-11000.

I think it is something with the computer. I went through it and set up all the other stuff correctly the only thing that is funky on it is the rpms. I have read that the rpms can get jumpy if the computer it not wired directly into the coil. I think in my bikes case its just wrapped around the spark plug wire. ill have to directly route it into the coil to get better readings.

the bike is all stock so the sprockets have not been changed or anything like that.

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id love to have a tach on my bike so I have been reading about the coil inductive tach meters and those that plug into the head or something...

id love to get a cheap chinese tachmeter but dont know how to hook it up just yet

ideas welcome

ps. I figured yo werent cruising at 100mph, so fix that and youll be fine

cheers

christian

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thanks you all for the fast replies,

you are correct im cruising at around 60 when my comp is saying my rpms are 9500-11000.

I think it is something with the computer. I went through it and set up all the other stuff correctly the only thing that is funky on it is the rpms. I have read that the rpms can get jumpy if the computer it not wired directly into the coil. I think in my bikes case its just wrapped around the spark plug wire. ill have to directly route it into the coil to get better readings.

the bike is all stock so the sprockets have not been changed or anything like that.

Connecting to the coil works best IMO.

See this for the most accurate tach hook-up.

http://gallery.trail...oltage_tach.pdf

And see page 20 here. It explain how to check and set the pulse per revolution 1 PPR should be correct. Check it first, it is probably set at .5 PPR's like some 4 strokes use.

http://gallery.trail...nstructions.pdf

:cheers:

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Connecting to the coil works best IMO.

See this for the most accurate tach hook-up.

http://gallery.trail...oltage_tach.pdf

And see page 20 here. It explain how to check and set the pulse per revolution 1 PPR should be correct. Check it first, it is probably set at .5 PPR's like some 4 strokes use.

http://gallery.trail...nstructions.pdf

:cheers:

:worthy:

I just got done rewiring it directly in to coil and come to find out it wasnt that

x 2!!! :crazy: or maybe x .5??? :thinking:

Here's the deal.... :prof:

You need to set your vapor up correctly. The spark system on the XR sparks every rotation but fires ever other rotation. It is known as a waste spark system.

Divide by two to get the real reading... :smirk:

:cheers:

:worthy:

this is what was going on the pulse per rotation were set to 1. so i switched it to two and its reading correctly now!

thanks again!

I was thinking to my self those high rpms were a little crazy. but now im good :banana:

thanks everyone

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oilk.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

You really need to get a manual. To check the oil you warm the bike up a bit..Take it for a five minute ride. When you return shut the bike down..wait 20 seconds. Remain seated and keep the bike in an upright position,,ie..level..Unscrew the dipstick,,wipe it with a rag,,insert it back in the hole but don't screw it home..Remove dipstick and check the level,,Top up as needed..A full oil change is much the same except you put one litre or whatever you guys deal in measurement wise in the dipstick hole,,then start the bike,,Allow it to idle for 20 seconds,,shut it down again and put the remainder of the oil in the dipstick hole. Take it for a run round the block and do as above,,ie check the level when you get back,,Top up as required. So I guess in answer to your question the oil is checked when the bikes hot..

im going to order a manual here soon, do you have any preference? can you get a OEM manual? if not what is the best one out there other than that original?

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id love to have a tach on my bike so I have been reading about the coil inductive tach meters and those that plug into the head or something...

id love to get a cheap chinese tachmeter but dont know how to hook it up just yet

ideas welcome

ps. I figured yo werent cruising at 100mph, so fix that and youll be fine

cheers

christian

I would go with a trial tech, they are the best bang for your buck. they have all sorts of shit on them and i think they run around $115.

I was lucky and my bike came with it..... just set incorrectly.

and after reading through the instruction online, it really is easy. I mean they give you pictures and all.

Edited by ls1221
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i was looking into take off the smog deal, what kit do you all think is the best.

I have looked at the "IMS baja kit"

i want that popping to stop

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With Thumpers you need to "Check the oil every ride" (They're different animals and use oil), sometimes mine uses oil and sometimes not (the more high speed hwy use the more oil she uses). I found the way that works best for me with the dry sump, oil in the frame is, check it when I 1st get home from the ride(and its hot) and top off if needed, then I wrap a twist tie somewhere so I know I checked it and its full for my next ride, (unless its got a puddle of oil under it).

Changing the oil, then using the dip stick to get it to the full line can be tricky, you add oil, run the bike, add more oil, run the bike and its not even on the dipstick, so you add more oil and end up with 3 qts in her, way to much. Heres the way I do it since I buy oil by the gallon. Find a gallon container you can see the oil in, plastic milk jug or something. Using a measuring cup and water, fill your jug to 2 quarts 5 oz, (or whatever it takes your bike to get to the full line), mark the container. Now just fill the milk jug to the line with new oil, then at your next oil change, you know you've added the correct amount, even if its not showing up on the dip stick at first.

Edited by zx12r
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so you guys dont think Im just blabbing I just got home from a niiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiice ride after doing some engine work, carb work and clutch work...

I had done a full oil change my first ride after the clutch...but didnt check the oil...

this time I did...

after about a 3 hour ride...I slow down the last 5 miles of city traffuc etc...this settles the oil ion the frame a bit...

there is a wall right outside my house...I ride up to it and stand straight up, I proceed to take my helmet and gloves off, turn oiff the petcock so i dont have excess fuel in the bowl, and then I let her idle for maybe 30 seconds, just about when the rpms start creeping from no gas...

I then saddle off and lean the bike BARELY against the wall...maybe a 3 degree angle...by the time I grab a napkin or paper towel to check the oil level the oil is all settled down and can be read properly

aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaand

bam

right on the little full mark HOLE...

loveley

check like this everytime and you are golden

lastly when doing an oil change, what no manual tells you and is best is this

1 QUART IN ONE OF THE LEFT valve access caps...

1 QUART in frame.

then prime the pump by cranking a but and loosening lower banjo bolt...if you have flow tighten up...go ride a bit and check level AFTER a long ride...

the reason I say this is because uts very easy to OVERFILL

with 2 quarts in the engine at least you will be above the halfway mark...so nothing is ghoing to explode, so dont worry!!!!!!!!!!

come back home, check level like stated above and add maybe a cup or 2 of oil....

its really simple

avoid the noob mistake of overfilling...

cheers

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