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Cam chain tensioner '06

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Hello, yesterday I noticed some rattling of the cam chain and want to buy a stock replacement cam chain tensioner. My question is, what is the replacemet procedure? Do I need to find TDC then just unbolt the old one and bolt in the new one? Or is there more to it than that?

Please don't reply with suggesting a manual chain tensioner. I have faith in Honda's R/D and have decided to stick with what their engineers have determined to be the most practical. It is an '06 and has lasted 6 years on the oem. So, I am happy to get another 6 years out of the replacement.

I'd like to hear from folks thet have done the replacement. Please walk me through it. Does the new part come with the gasket? Do I need a new screw? O-ring? What is the torque specs on the bolts?

Thank you.

David

Edited by davethegoat

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I'm guessing it is the same as an '04 model. That being said, it's very simple. From what I remember, the stock Honda OEM chain tensioner did not come with the gasket. The tensioner itself is very simple and you do not need to find TDC - just don't rotate the engine with the tensioner removed. Simply remove the bolts holding the old tensioner on, then remove the tensioner and gasket (or reuse gasket if possible/needed).

The new tensioner comes with a little "tool" which is actually just a little key made from sheet metal. You insert the key part way into the new tensioner and turn it clockwise to retract the tensioner arm. Once it is retracted all the way, insert the key fully to keep the tensioner retracted. Install the tensioner on the engine. Once installed, pull out the key and the tensioner will extend automatically and keep constant tension on the cam chain guide. You're good to go.

Edited by jonr3

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^^ Thanks for the quick reply!

I'll probably be doing this in a couple weeks now that I believe it is something not requiring a mechanic. Thanks again.

David

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its literally a 10 minute swap. Being an auto tensioner, when you release it, it finds its best setting by itself. FWIW, I dont trust them as far as I could throw them (which is quite a way really) Ive personally seen these auto tensioners let go half a dozen times now.

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Ok thanks. I was hoping it was just a remove and replace process. I just need some corroboration. So no need to find Top Dead Center? Just unbolt the two bolts holding the old one on....retract the new one and bolt it in? I think I will replace the gasket as well as it's just 4 dollars. Does anyone know the torque specs? My owners manual does not include them. I'm thinking 12-16lbs??? Thanks again!

Dave

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Ok thanks. I was hoping it was just a remove and replace process. I just need some corroboration. So no need to find Top Dead Center? Just unbolt the two bolts holding the old one on....retract the new one and bolt it in? I think I will replace the gasket as well as it's just 4 dollars. Does anyone know the torque specs? My owners manual does not include them. I'm thinking 12-16lbs??? Thanks again!

Dave

The 2 mounting bolts shouldn't need to be torqued more then 7-8 foot lbs (84 inch lbs) .

Many folks here do not run the auto tensioner. Like Shawn said they have been known to fail. When they do fail it tends to be a sudden complete failure, not wearing out over time with failure symptoms/feedback. The consequences of an auto tensioner failure can be catastrophic. Your 4th gear pinned and it fails, the chain jumps teeth sending your valves into the piston causing your motor to melt down/seize and possibly sending you to the hospital. Ok I know that is an extreme example but still food for thought.

The OEM tensioner runs about $50. For that price you can get a manual tensioner right here https://www.thumpertalk.com/shop/ThumperTalk-Manual-Cam-Chain-Tensioner-ENG_TT_MCCT1-p2006766344.html

Not trying to tell you what you should or should not do but rather give more insight into this. Hope this helps! :thumbsup:

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The 2 mounting bolts shouldn't need to be torqued more then 7-8 foot lbs (84 inch lbs) .

Many folks here do not run the auto tensioner. Like Shawn said they have been known to fail. When they do fail it tends to be a sudden complete failure, not wearing out over time with failure symptoms/feedback. The consequences of an auto tensioner failure can be catastrophic. Your 4th gear pinned and it fails, the chain jumps teeth sending your valves into the piston causing your motor to melt down/seize and possibly sending you to the hospital. Ok I know that is an extreme example but still food for thought.

The OEM tensioner runs about $50. For that price you can get a manual tensioner right here https://www.thumpert...2006766344.html

Not trying to tell you what you should or should not do but rather give more insight into this. Hope this helps! :thumbsup:

The worst part of it is, that the OEM tensioner will give up momentarily and then reset itself. And they dont even have to be very old to do it. I did an engine for a guy recent that opted for the OEM auto tensioner in opposition to me suggesting the Manual TT unit. About 20-30 hours into the new engine build the thing coughs and skids to a stop on him. This guy has the damn luck of the Irish I tell ya because he'd just pulled off the track. He went to kick it and it was stuck. I got it back, did a leak down on it after figuring out what the deal was I reset the timing (it was 2 teeth retarded) and it fired right up. The NEW auto tensioner would let go with the slightest bump. A slow clamping pressure on it would hold fine like clamping in the vice, no problem. But just tap it a little (the exact way a cam chain would mind you) and it just lets go. I'll never do another one with an OEM tensioner, put it that way.

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There are several ways to do it. I loosen mine until it starts to get noisier then tighten it until the noise stops. I also posted the instructions that come with the TT MCCT in another thread. The Tokyo Mods method is in that same thread as well. Here's the link

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/999065-quick-on-mcct/page__hl__+dasquriel#entry10483212

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