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Clutch replacement?

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I have a 2008 XR650L. It has 5,800 miles on it. I think I might need to replace the clutch already. I have adjusted the clutch lever play a couple times in the past. Now if I try to adjust the clutch lever anymore the clutch lever just goes slack and has no more tension past the point of clutch enguagement. My last oil change there were little silver flakes in the oil. The bike shifts just fine so i am not worried about it being pieces of gears that i am seeing. The gears are tempered steel and should be a brozneish color...I am guessing. Could the small flakes be from the clutch basket? Is my clutch in need of replacement if I am no longer able to make adjustments without tension after the point of clutch enguagement? I would be very greatful for any advise you all could give me.

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You may need new springs and fiber plates to get it back to right. Use OEM springs and plates. Also make sure the steel plates aren't warped and do not use an oil for meant for cars. Also soak the new fiber plate in whatever oil you choose for the motor at least overnight before you assemble.

Edited by Ohio Rusty Spokes

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Thanks Rusty Spokes! If the small flakes that are in my oil are from the clutch basket wouldnt I need to replace that too or are they able to take some wear without replacement?

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Clutch basket should be OK but have a good look at it and see if any signs of wear. Make sure clutch plates run freely in the "grooves". I would also suggest when you rebuild that you run the engine far a short while with some clean oil, drain it off and then change filter and refill with fresh oil.

Not being a pedant but gear"chips" should not look "bronzish" - they are, as you rightly said, steel and steel is not a bronze colour....

I just find it strange that a clutch should be faulty at that low mileage - is this an "original buy" from new or a second hand bike?

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maybe the po or yo abused the clutch and what you are seing is in fact basket flakes and new engine flakes...

as long as they are not bronze you are a ok

I just got done replacing my clucth on my xr6, I used xrl clutch fibers and plates...I went ahead and refiled the clutch basket fingers

THIS is what you need to verify. Paramount for the clutch to engage well and not be jerky...if the fingers have grooves in them you must file them smooth

you can only do this once or twice before needing to source a new basket. the reason is if too loose you will eventually snap the fingers off when hanmering the bike in a tall gear.

let us know how we can help...clutch replacement is pretty easy

also...you must clean the frame strainer for the oil if not already done by the dealer...I doint trust them so do it yourself...

you will have original shavings from the engine build here, not to mention, excess gasket material and fibery hairy material...its part of the engine build process not to mention the piston and rings settling into the cylinder which will produce fine shiny oil the first couple of oil changes

cheers

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Clutch basket should be OK but have a good look at it and see if any signs of wear. Make sure clutch plates run freely in the "grooves". I would also suggest when you rebuild that you run the engine far a short while with some clean oil, drain it off and then change filter and refill with fresh oil.

Not being a pedant but gear"chips" should not look "bronzish" - they are, as you rightly said, steel and steel is not a bronze colour....

I just find it strange that a clutch should be faulty at that low mileage - is this an "original buy" from new or a second hand bike?

sounds to me like second onwer, first owner didnt even bother doing the oil changes and or frame strainer clean and thats why he is seing so much flakes, it might also be that the first owner abused the hell out of the clutch and simply sold it for a good deal so the next ownet can fix it! again an assumption

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Bronze flakes in the oil point the thrust washers on the big end of the rod. Not good.

ive read the ops first post a million times now...where does it say that he currently or has had bronze flakes? he says his last oil change had silver flakes and that he knows that the gears are tempered steel and bronze colored but nowhere does it say that he has bronze flakes now.

in any case I agree

I had the bronze flakes shower happen to me 2 years ago...I know what it feels like and it sucks...

Edited by elsalvadorXR6

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Clutch basket should be OK but have a good look at it and see if any signs of wear. Make sure clutch plates run freely in the "grooves". I would also suggest when you rebuild that you run the engine far a short while with some clean oil, drain it off and then change filter and refill with fresh oil.

Not being a pedant but gear"chips" should not look "bronzish" - they are, as you rightly said, steel and steel is not a bronze colour....

I just find it strange that a clutch should be faulty at that low mileage - is this an "original buy" from new or a second hand bike?

I am pretty shocked that I need to replace the clutch so soon also. I am the second owner. I bought the bike from a guy that only had 3,000 miles on it and it was completely bone stock. I was under the impession that the gears would be tempered steel and tempered steel is golden or bronzish color. Just my impression, I havent looked at the gears and dont know for sure. Just thinking out loud and fishing for help.

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sounds to me like second onwer, first owner didnt even bother doing the oil changes and or frame strainer clean and thats why he is seing so much flakes, it might also be that the first owner abused the hell out of the clutch and simply sold it for a good deal so the next ownet can fix it! again an assumption

You are correct. I am the second owner and my guess is the guy wasnt very mechaicaly inclinded. He told me he took it to the dealer for everything everytime. I have done regular oil changes. January 1st 2013 was the 2 year anniversary of me owning this bike. I change the oil at least twice a year, including oil filters and body strainer cleaning. I have to say that I am not especially kind to the clutch my self. I do a LOT of trail riding and some of the hills I do a moutain goat wouldnt climb on a dare. I did get it for a steal too...you must moon light as a fortune teller. :) I traded my 2006 Yamaha 660 Raptor sport quad straight accross for it, and i got the better deal. I am pretty sure he didnt have his street endorsement and had to get it out of impound one too many times for his wife to like. She was there during the trade and said its about damn time that bike was gone. lol Thanks for the input...much appreciated

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I don't know how large your metal flakes are but most times I change the oil I have a slight metallic tint to the oil if the light is hitting it just right. This seems less now that I've installed a magnetic drain bolt. I have 10,500 miles on the original clutch. I ride trails quite a bit and am not particularly easy on my bike at time. So I find it very odd you are having to change it so soon. But about the clutch adjustment. I recently adjusted mine and I'll try to explain my experience the best I can. If I adjust the clutch lever and it effectively engaged or disengaged the clutch plates there is an annoying amount of slack in my lever which led me to believe my clutch wasn't adjusted correctly. If I adjusted the slack out of the lever then the clutch would slip terribly while riding. I adjusted it 10 different times before concluding that the slack is inevitable. I've never experienced this in any other bike I've owned. Maybe it's a result of stretched clutch cable, too long of cable or a result of clutch plate wear. After my experience I actually read some other people have experienced this too. I hope this makes since and the slack isn't throwing you off to believe something that its not.

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if you read the manual you will see the amount of recommended slack at both the lever and clutch arm actuator on the case...stick to these tolerances and you will be good

having said this I just changed my clutch out, with oem and noticed that I can no longer get that old amount of lever slack, WHICH I GOT USED TO...this is because the thicker discs, all add up to a new total height and the pressure plate is further out, this means that at the lever you will have less slack...

so you have almost INSTANT clutch engagement when correctly adjusted...in order to "fix" this I want to get an adjustable lever like and asf etc that can put the lever arm closer to the bars so its easier for me...

again this has been my most recent experience not 2 weeks ago...

cheers

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So my worry is that I have a XR250R and when I let the cultch lever out to engage I have tension on the clutch handle past the point of engagement. To me that feels like the clutch is grabbing well and with room for wear on the plates. I can make adjustments on my clutch to play into my comfort area of clutch grab. My XR650L there is no tension past the point of engagement. I can still adjust the cable to make "slop" in the clutch lever...but once the clutch grabs the handle looses all tension. It "feels" like its at the end of adjustment. I like to have my clutch lever between 1/2 and 3/4 out before it engages and the bike starts to move. Is it normal for there to be no more tension after enguagement on the 650L?

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So my worry is that I have a XR250R and when I let the cultch lever out to engage I have tension on the clutch handle past the point of engagement. To me that feels like the clutch is grabbing well and with room for wear on the plates. I can make adjustments on my clutch to play into my comfort area of clutch grab. My XR650L there is no tension past the point of engagement. I can still adjust the cable to make "slop" in the clutch lever...but once the clutch grabs the handle looses all tension. It "feels" like its at the end of adjustment. I like to have my clutch lever between 1/2 and 3/4 out before it engages and the bike starts to move. Is it normal for there to be no more tension after enguagement on the 650L?

Thats how my XRL is too. It grabs at the very end of the lever travel. I think it has more to do with the clutch design and springs than the plates. If its not slipping, I wouldn't worry about it. I've had over 30 bikes, the clutches all grab at different places.

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