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sticky throttle - does not snap closed

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Hi all

I've never been too happy with how the throttle closed on my wr250f so I have bought a new set of cables. Having changed them I've found it to be the same if not worse. it seems the throttle tube is very tight in the metal holder that channels the candles out ( sorry don't know what that is called). I know you don't grease the tube it's self but does anyone grease that area that hold the cables and tube in place?

many thanks

Myles

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Take the throttle tube off and clean the bar and the inside of the tube. A lot of times dirt and grime get in there and cause it to stick. I lube mine with a silicone spray or a dry lube.

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Take the throttle tube off and clean the bar and the inside of the tube. A lot of times dirt and grime get in there and cause it to stick. I lube mine with a silicone spray or a dry lube.

This, and check the handlebars where the throttle tube slides on for any burrs and file down if necessary. I always use lithium soap based gease between the bar and throttle tube. Also, if you're running BB's it may be catching on them as well. Also, lube your throttle cables for S's/G's.

Edited by mikewrf18

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Also, make sure you have some play/slack in the cables. The grip should be able to turn slightly BEFORE the cables start to pull on the carb wheel.

i know your supposed to do that, buy why? I set mine to where it has almost no slack, instant throttle

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i know your supposed to do that, buy why? I set mine to where it has almost no slack, instant throttle

If the cables are 'tight' any movement of the bars, temp changes can cause the cables to bind up, both pulling at the same time, resulting in a sticking or very stiff throttle.

It is a misconception that removing the play gives you better reponse and control. Test it for yourself. Remove all the play and try it (make sure your kill switch works first). Then readjust and give the cables a little play.

Once you move the grip enough to remove the slack, you have instant throttle response. All you are doing is giving some 'wiggle room' when the grip is not being held.

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If the cables are 'tight' any movement of the bars, temp changes can cause the cables to bind up, both pulling at the same time, resulting in a sticking or very stiff throttle.

It is a misconception that removing the play gives you better reponse and control. Test it for yourself. Remove all the play and try it (make sure your kill switch works first). Then readjust and give the cables a little play.

Once you move the grip enough to remove the slack, you have instant throttle response. All you are doing is giving some 'wiggle room' when the grip is not being held.

so in other words it can result in a whiskey throttle? :D!

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Disconnect cables, make sure throttle spins freely, check cable routing, while its disconnected turn throttle wheel on carb for smooth operation. This will get you zeroed in!

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thanks all.. got a few things to check through there.

the tube turns nicely on the bar but it's when I tighten up the clamp it all goes wrong.Will look for any obstruction in there. also checked the throttle wheel and its nice and springy.. might bite the bullet and get a new throttle assembly if nothing above works. thanks again guys.. great site

myles

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Check to make sure that the throttle housing were you tighten the bolts isn't bent. Seen it a couple a couple of times where people have crashed then the throttle is sticking. Usually can carefully tweak it straight again.

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also try tightening the screws a little at a time making sure the gap closes evenly. Also make sure the screws are the factory correct hardware(black in color I believe)

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hi all. just to update, I've got to the bottom of it. I loosened off the lower cable on the carb and bingo!. it was quite far out so wound it back in quite a bit. The mistake I made was setting the new cable the same amount showing as the old one.. should have started from zero and worked up! Thanks for all the advise.

Myles

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Moral - No slack, big problem

Never assume the way it was adjusted before is how it should ber adjusted now. The correct way to do it is adjust it all over again when ever the cables are off. I first screw the adjust up near the throttle all the way 'together', giving 'max slack'. Then install the cables on the carb.

First the pull cable, a little free play (1/16th turn) at the grip. Then the pull cable, with a little slack. Then I use the mid cable adjust to remove most (but not all slack) leaving just enoug that if I hold the grip in my hand and slightly move it, the throttle wheel does not turn, I can see the cable inners move slightly. Then I know it is right. Turn the bars to the right, tet, turn the bars to the left, test. If a small amount of slack is always there, then I know it is right.

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