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Weight Reduction or Shaving the Pork...

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Hi all, been lurking for a while and thought i'd chime in on this topic! After riding home from the dealers for the first time I realized that this is no light weight, so decided to remove all road going gear as I mainly use as a play bike to ride in the bush with my son. I managed to easily remove about 9kg, including removing headlight/ bracket wiring etc and ignition, as well as the usual stuff like blinkers etc! Ive since fitted a lightweight Polisport Headlight and quick release blinkers. Ignition on is relocated to the engine to keep the weight off the front end, which makes a huge difference with forks and handling! The three main areas this bike lacks for serious enduro stuff in my opinion is 1. weight 2. suspension and 3. airfilter. But I guess it was never intended to be that sort of bike! Ive kept the standard system on for now as I love the stealth in the bush, and it doesn't offend bushwalkers etc.

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Ignition Relocation Position

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New indicator switch.

Nice... :thumbsup:

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name='Hongie67' timestamp='1360240866' post='10543101']

I've also removed the hi low beam switch and wired low beam continuous, it would be easy to wire an on off switch but I didn't feel the need for what im doing, which is sneaking a few back roads home from the bush after dark?

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Polisport Halo

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Relocated Dash

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Modified UFO tailight[/b]

:cheers:

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Hi !

And congrats for your 9kg "easy" removing :jawdrop:

As i took note of every removed/added part weight, i can say quite exacly where I'm w/ weight : :prof:

- Stock header-muffler vs FMF Q4, MB header w/ stock header prot------------- -3743 gr

- Steel 40t rear sprocket vs Alu 42t-------------------------------------------------------- - 383 gr

- Rear fender-light vs DRC edge2 tail-light----------------------------------------------- - 961 gr

- Yuasa battery vs LiFePo4 4cells-------------------------------------------------------- - 2170 gr

- Headlight assy w/bracket vs UFO stealth & alu support plate for speedo------ - 897 gr

- Plastic skid plate vs dito alu 3mm--------------------------------------------------------- + 130 gr

- Removing 4 blinkers-------------------------------------------------------------------------- - 660 gr

- Removing right mirror------------------------------------------------------------------------ - 260 gr

- Removing passenger footpegs------------------------------------------------------------ - 224 gr

- Removing chain guard----------------------------------------------------------------------- - 146 gr

- Removing divers (helmet lock, seat strap ...)------------------------------------------ - 490 gr

- Removing manual & maintenance booklet---------------------------------------------- - 180 gr

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

TOTAL______________________________________________________ - 9'984 gr

At this you may add (but i didn't)

- Toolbox, tools and white plastic exhaust guard--------------------------------------- - 1282 gr

Thats was not so easy for me to not even remove 10 kg from the bike :D

L

:cheers:

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Sorry, just realized were over here? :rolleyes:

In the past I've had experience with efi systems from other makes (Triumph, Buell, Motoguzzi etc) and have used programs like VDST, EcmSpy, Tunecu etc.. It would be great if there were interface software similar available for our little Honda?? I'd love to have a copy of what the Factory uses, then i'd go in and disable O2, air inject etc and remove all associated parts, and ditch a lot more weight, I know this seems extreme but ive even had thoughts of ditching the airbox complexly and running a pod type filter?? Your probably asking why I just didn't buy a KTM or Huskie?? mmm?? still asking myself that question? But to be honest I enjoy tinkering and the challenge! :ride:

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Great stuff. I hope to use these ideas on my own just purchased CRF250L. It looks like one bit not documented above is changing out the handlebars. I understand they are steel. Am this wrong as someone who has gone through some quite extreme mods has not changed this bit out?

Hongie, could I ask how you removed the helmet lock? Did you have to grind those connectors or is there a special tool? Also how much weight does the de-smog reduce?

Edited by gliderboy

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Sorry, just realized were over here? :rolleyes:

In the past I've had experience with efi systems from other makes (Triumph, Buell, Motoguzzi etc) and have used programs like VDST, EcmSpy, Tunecu etc.. It would be great if there were interface software similar available for our little Honda?? I'd love to have a copy of what the Factory uses, then i'd go in and disable O2, air inject etc and remove all associated parts, and ditch a lot more weight, I know this seems extreme but ive even had thoughts of ditching the airbox complexly and running a pod type filter?? Your probably asking why I just didn't buy a KTM or Huskie?? mmm?? still asking myself that question? But to be honest I enjoy tinkering and the challenge! :ride:

Check out this thread and ask away.. :smirk:http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1003021-crf250l-engine-control-details-and-tech-thread/

:cheers:

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Great way to lose weight : lithium batteries

After seeing Ramz's blog, I inquired about the Shorai batteries.

http://www.shoraipower.com/

I've also seen other brands like Antigravity, who advise the 4 cells for a 250cc.

http://antigravityba...om/?page_id=994

All things considered (cheap way), I decided to make myself a 4 cell A123 battery, like in this video but 4 cells.

You can buy some like these, or find even cheaper on the bay (search for A123)

http://www.hobbyking....dproduct=16575

Ended with a 12 ounces unit (instead 88 for stock)

dsc00158e.jpg

dsc00165st.jpg

Working fine for 1 month, and start engine w/o prob at -10 degrees Celsius

L

>>DISCLAIMER<<

-------------------------

- Don't do that unless you know exactly how and what you're doing ...

- ... and take all responsabilities for risks or damages related on assembly and use of a DIY Lithium battery.

- Otherwise, buy a finished/garanteed product intended for such a use like Shorai, Antigravity, Earth-X, Ballistic ... you will be happy with it.

Edited by Krono
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Great stuff. I hope to use these ideas on my own just purchased CRF250L. It looks like one bit not documented above is changing out the handlebars. I understand they are steel. Am this wrong as someone who has gone through some quite extreme mods has not changed this bit out?

Hongie, could I ask how you removed the helmet lock? Did you have to grind those connectors or is there a special tool? Also how much weight does the de-smog reduce?

From memory the helmet lock is held with "shallow" allen heads, and they weren't overly tight, just make sure you push hard to keep the key in the head squarely :thumbsup: As for the bars, ive been going to swap them out for renthals but haven't got around to it yet? in saying that I actually don't mind the stock bend, they seem a good width and nice and straight across! Just no bling!! :goofy: :goofy:

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Also how much weight does the de-smog reduce?

Sorry missed this! Basically mine is stock in the engine and emissions department, as I only ride off road Ive reduced the road going gear to the very basics, including removing the unnecessary parts of the loom. I think our AU model has less emissions than the US version but I could be wrong? There's probably a bit of weight in the air inject and associated parts? but I run a standard pipe and removal may "kill" the cat inside due to the lower temps, and also throw a Mil? not sure if people are using a resistor or not??

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Thanks for the reply Hongie. I just saw your photos without the EVAP can and assumed you had removed it. I ended up grinding off the ?bolts? holding on the helmet lock. I looked at them closely and could not make out any Allen head in it. Maybe I was fooled but it looked like some sort of rivet. Next I need to cut off the welded tab for a cleaner look. The bend on the stock bars feels nice to me as well and is 15 degrees. But I do think the bars are steel and very heavy. I am going to replace them with some Fasst Flex handlebars. Hopefully they may be a bit lighter. I would also like to lose the steel headlight mount and put on some flush mount turn signal lights. My goal is to take 25 lbs off. I am really hoping someone puts out a plastic tank with just a touch more capacity.

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Hongie, I may to your ignition switch fork lock mod. Is that a 3 way switch you installed to replace it? And any idea how heavy the stock headlight is? I have found a nice headlight with integrated turn signals I may install.

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Hongie, I may to your ignition switch fork lock mod. Is that a 3 way switch you installed to replace it? And any idea how heavy the stock headlight is? I have found a nice headlight with integrated turn signals I may install.

The Polisport Headlight I fitted is lighter than stock but not a great deal, I guess it all adds up! But it does mount with stretchy rubbers and is smaller in size, this allows for a close factory looking fit without the steel bracket that holds the dash on, so again saving more weight! I've mounted the dash to an aluminium bracket I fab'd up using the stock shock rubbers and run the loom up through the key hole, keeping all the wires from fouling on the throttle and clutch cables!

Looking from the rear, both use the same plug for the Halogen.

light_back (816 x 612).jpg

Standard looks big!

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Headlight removed.

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Creative Wiring to new Dash location!

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This is the switch I used for the ignition, its a SPST type designed for marine use.

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And here's a simplified diagram of the ignition relocation mod. Note: Starting is still by pushing the right hand starter button :rolleyes:

Ignition Dia. (783 x 699).jpg

Thought i'd better edit this in!! Please Don't do this mod if your not competent with wiring! Disconnect the battery before starting as accidental shorting of ignition

wires can lead to sparks and possible fire! Also damage to the ECU is possible! :cry:

Edited by Hongie67
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Hongie,

Wow! Thanks for the great detail. I think your mod is really well thought out and looks clean! I did not appreciate how nice the wire routing through the ignition mount works until seeing your new photos. And the killer instructions for the ignition relocation.

I want to go this route except I will probably keep the turn signal switch. Finding the water proof toggle switch is going to be tough here in Thailand so will need to order it or grab one when I return to California. Could I ask where you bought your unit? Mouser or such? Also, I meant to ask about the weight savings versus stock after losing the metal mount bracket!

Thanks,

Brian

Edited by gliderboy

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Here is a picture of a locals CRF250L with the headlight assembly with integrated turn signals. Less than $30 here, goes by the crazy name Stealth Virus, but the silly graphics is easily removable. I think there is an option for mounting with included rubber straps.

crf250L right side.jpg

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Here is a picture of a locals CRF250L with the headlight assembly with integrated turn signals. Less than $30 here, goes by the crazy name Stealth Virus, but the silly graphics is easily removable. I think there is an option for mounting with included rubber straps.

I installed the same one, but with straps. Bought it here in Switzerland, for more than 100$ ... :cry:

Mine is branded UFO stealth, not a copy :smirk:

Due to front fender thickness under headlight, the upper straps legs comes too high and have to be trimmed

But thats allow the removal of the assembly steel bracket. I made an alu plate for speedometer.

Despite this installation issue, im happy with the look and the hi & front palced weight reduction so provided

All in one, the shaving is about 2 lbs.

57556454.jpg

42324444.jpg

L

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Very nice indeed. Since I have a white CRF250L I would love to find a white or black "Stealth UFO" copy :), but only have seen red and blue so far. The copy looks fine and only trades one stupid name for another (Virus for UFO, LOL). Ramsey has pointed out that a CRF250X fender fits, removes a couple ounces, looks better IMO, and should relieve the trimming needed with the stock fender.

You guys have the ticket with substituting an aluminum plate mount for the weighty stock steel mount. I am jealous but will get there eventually!

Edited by gliderboy

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