2012 300XC Advice...

[mxkid1p]

I bought this bike new 15 months ago. This is my first KTM, always ridden Kawi's for 24 years, and in 06 started revalving my own bikes after my tuner pasted away. I have been terrified to bust into the WP forks and shock as I hear about piston hieghts, needles, and bladders in the forks... These are completly foreign having spent 24 years on KYB's. So some questions...

Forks

How much air in the bladder for a 230lb Expert Enduro Rider? What about stacks...? I would like a little smoother ride but would like to fork to hold better in the really aggressive turns... there aren't near as many shims to play with compared to my Kawi's.

What are some thoughts about the following? Am I even close? lol

Base

3x24.1

<---+ 2x24.1

16.1

3x24.1 <--- Removed 1x24.1

23.1

22.1

21.1

<---+ 1x17.1

20.1

19.1

18.1

17.1

16.1

15.1

14.1

<---+ 1x13.1

<---+ 1x12.1

9.5x0.3 <--- Remove 1 9.5x0.3

16.25

Mid

12.1 <--- Remove

3x20.1 <--- Remove 1x20.1

<---+ 12.1

18.1

16.1

14.1

10.2

Reb

15.1

3xd20.1

12.1

16.1

14.1

13.1

12.1

10.3

Shock

I don't have a stack to post just yet cause I don't know all the factors inside.

How hard are these shocks to work on? I'm pretty scared to work on this thing... Do I really need a Vacuum to bleed them? Can I bleed them just like a KYB? Is there really a 2nd piston in there or a bladder for Nitro?

Sorry for the ignorance... I really want to bust these things open while there is snow on the ground and I would appriciate any thoughts on any of these questions... Thanks!

[erickfmf]

Bump! I want to know also!?

[moto9]

I have the same bike, fork and shock is very easy to work on, really not much different than the showa TC fork and shock.

The fork uses a bladder rather than a spring....that's pretty much it.

The shock uses a piston instead of a bladder, the problem there is recharging, you have 4 options there

1) Drill and tap the rez body and add a schrader valve....this is what I did.

2) Get the Race Tech recharge tool "spendy"

3) Add a bladder kit

4) Have a shop recharge it

The fork Cart can be hand bled, but you will need a needle to properly service it and set the correct pressure.

Also you'll need a low pressure hand pump and a top cap tool.

Check slavens website for service videos, and KTM talk for more info

For the shock, the easiest option is get the bladder kit....inspite what some say it's a worth while conversion, just service it regularly.

Valving is very subjective....I had a couple of top gurus spec out valving that just didn't work for me so I did my own.

I'm very close for what I ride and what I like, I'll post what I did because I think it's a good base to work off... but make your own choices.

First, remove the bleed shims and make sure your sprung correctly

A RIDER, WEIGHT-195, TIGHT NASTY SINGLE TRACK

.46 SPRING 20psi "E-AXLE" OC @ 350cc

BV

24-2

12

24-7

22

20

18

10x20

18

16

15

13

9x30

MV FLOAT IS .50 TO .63

20

12

20...plan to add one more 20x10 to decrese the float and get a little more damp on the harder hits

18-2

16-2

11

10x20

REB

D-3

16

14

13

12

11

10X30

SHOCK SPRING 5.7

44X20-6

32X15

26X10

42X20

38X20

36X20

34X20

32X20

30X20

28X20

REB

40X20-4

28X12

40X25

40X20

38X25

34X20

32X20

20X20

28X20

20X20

I like the shock except it's a little mushy on comp, I will add a RT rebound seperator next time I'm in there.

Edited March 30, 2013 by moto9

[mog]

Are you sure your clamping on a 28

[moto9]

Are you sure your clamping on a 28

Open to suggestions, advice or any info!....what are you thinking?

That's what I have on my spec sheet, but remember I'm riding 1st thru 3rd tight technical wet greasy rooty single track.

Allthough it's not 100% where'd i'd like it it's a vast improvement over stock....still some work to do when I can find the time.

[mog]

I'm just surprised as that would normally be stiff

[moto9]

I'm just surprised as that would normally be stiff

Doesn't feel stiff, it's good in most situations, just feels a little mushy in g-outs, drop offs and log crossings

[Phil_S]

.....

I like the shock except it's a little mushy on comp, I will add a RT rebound seperator next time I'm in there.

What is the effect of the seperator? Can if provide more flow in the compression direction than you have in the rebound direction? For some reason, I though max limit on compression was the rebound setting. In other words, it could be used to give a lower compression flow than the rebound setting but not higher?

For my setting, after I stiffen up the compression stack, the LS compression was unrideable stiff. It needed more compression bleed than the rebound bleed allowed.

[moto9]

What is the effect of the seperator? Can if provide more flow in the compression direction than you have in the rebound direction? For some reason, I though max limit on compression was the rebound setting. In other words, it could be used to give a lower compression flow than the rebound setting but not higher?

For my setting, after I stiffen up the compression stack, the LS compression was unrideable stiff. It needed more compression bleed than the rebound bleed allowed.

It's a check valve "nut" It restricts oil to flow thru the rebound circuit (center shaft hole) during compression.

It does have a bleed (center) hole that is drilled to the desired size, I started with 2mm

I tried one on my MX bike CRF 250 and liked how it firmed up the compression, specially in the whoops, so I though I'd try one on the trail bike.