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Install headlight on pit bike


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So I've spent countless hours trying to install a good headlight on a pit bike that will have a good solid light beam and after hours of trouble shooting have had success !

FIRST OFF DON'T WASTE YOUR TIME WITH REGULATORS AND RECTIFIERS. I'VE BEEN THERE AND DONE THAT, AND YOU WILL NOT LIKE THE LIGHT OUTPUT AS WELL AS THE HUGE DECREASE IN LIGHT FROM IDLE TO FULL THROTTLE. THIS TUTORIAL WILL GIVE YOU LOTS OF LIGHT AND SAVE YOU TIME IN MONEY AND PARTS !!

So here is what you need to do...

1. Go buy a good fog light from your local auto parts store. We chose a 5 1/4 round fog light so it matches the bike (brand name Pilot PL-2202C) that has a nice shallow base and is easy to mount. Plus it comes with 2 lights so you have a spare or another light to do another bike. While your there pick up a 100 watt H3 bulb for this pilot system. If your selection already has a 100 watt build then your good to go, make sure it's a 100 watt bulb !! The main idea here is to buy a light that has an H3 bulb so that you can upgrade the bulb to a 100 watt bulb. This is a must in order to be able to handle the varying AC current that comes from the stator.

WARNING !!! THIS WILL NOT WORK WITH A 55 WATT BULB !!!!

1. Ensure that your pit bike has a lighting coil. The easiest way to figure this out is to look at the wiring harness coming out of the left hand side of your motor case. If you have 5 or more wires then your good to go. If you only have 3 wires then there is no lighting coil on your stator and you will have to buy one off of eBay. Don't get discouraged though, they are only about $25 shipped and very easy to replace.

2. Buy a handlebar light switch. I bought mine from my local cycle gear store for $20. Works great and is just a simple 2 wire switch. This switch is important and has to be installed !! If you hard wire your headlight with no switch and attempt to start the bike with the headlight on every time you will still risk blowing the 100 watt bulb as well as wear out your stator because there is such a huge spike of AC current when you kick start the bike. MAKE SURE THE LIGHT IS IN THE OFF POSITION EVERY TIME YOU START THE BIKE !

3. Locate the yellow and white wires up in the wiring harness on your bike. You will need to remove the seat, fairings, and gas tank to do all of this work and give you all the space you need for a clean install running wires etc. the yellow and white wires may be tucked up in the harness inside the black sleeving so you may need to cut the black sleeving open in order to gain access to them. Once you have found the wires then your ready to install the headlight.

4. Run 2 wires directly from the headlight. Give yourself enough wire slack to work with so connect about a 3 foot lead of wire. So the next part is easy and I'm going to break this down in simple terms for everyone that isn't an electrician or understand wiring. Think of these 2 wires as the positive and negative on your battery in your car. If you connected one of the wire to the negative, and one to the positive, then your headlight will light up. If you want to try this out then pop the hood on your car and try it. It will get you excited to see how bright your headlight is going to be. So lets detail the 2 wires now.

***The positive side of the wire is always going to be the wire that connects to the H3 bulb (it is the white heat shielded wire with a flat male connector)***

***The negative wire will be the wire that connects to the H3 bulb housing***

Once you have those 2 connected. Mount the headlight to the front of the bike so that way you know you have enough slack in your wiring as you do your install. Make sure you keep moving your handlebars on the bike from side to side so you can see that the wires aren't to tight stopping you from turning the bars.

5. Install the headlight switch on the handlebars. Pick a side you want it on, it really doesn't matter. Now I suggest using this switch as a ground, thus eliminating the risk of a positive current from grounding out on the bars. So what your going to do is run the negative wire from the headlight up to this switch and connect to the darker colored wire coming from the switch. Then the other wire coming from the switch you will need to run another wire to and ground directly to the frame of the bike. So this is how your switch works just so you have an understanding:

Your negative wire from the headlight now runs through the switch and then grounded to the bike. Every time you flick the switch off it is like cutting that wire in half so the circuit is no longer there and the headlight had no ground, thus the light won't work.

Make sense ? I just like to make sure you understand what it is your actually doing when you do it, it helps during the install of the whole process.

6. Connect the positive wire to the yellow wire on the wiring harness. Now I have 5 pit bikes and have done this on all of the bikes. The yellow and white wire are connected to the lighting coil on the stator, which means that you can connect to either one of the wires, but I chose to connect to the yellow every time, and then cap the white wire to make sure it's protected and doesn't touch any other wires or the frame on the bike. Now you don't have to, but I chose to install a fuse in this wiring and put a 20 amp fuse in it to protect the light. This will ensure the fuse blows before the light bulb protecting your investment.

NOW THIS WORKED ON ALL SSR AND MOST PIT BIKES... BUT NOT ON MY ROKETA !

On the ROKETA pit bike the stator lighting coil is not grounded so you have to do this instead. Connect the white wire to the positive wire coming from the headlight and then take the yellow wire and ground to the frame of the bike. This will complete the lighting coil circuit and will work. (Other bikes may have this same issue but I don't know what all bikes may have this wiring issue as well so if the first way doesn't work then try this method).

Now zip tie up all your wires for a clean install, and use shrink wrap or electrical tape to protect all your connection points from moisture. Reinstall your gas tank, fairings and seat.

Start the bike and enjoy a headlight that is as bright as a car headlight.

YOU NOW GET YO ENJOY SOME BAD A** NIGHT RIDING !!

Edited by Mojo73
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

no pics at all? how bout how you mounted it to the bars? I have some diff lamps I been saving aside just for this project, but havent spent anytime until reading this writup on figureing it out yet. or looking at my motor to see if it even has the right wires needed.

pics, pics , more pics.

went back and reread it and now see your links to what lights you used.

and yeah, thanks. great writeup.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well since writing this write up, I have done some even more mods, and have wires in regulator rectifiers in order to charge a small 12 volt battery so we have light when the bikes are not running.

I have also started messing with LED headlights venturing from the $40 lights of eBay to a tip of the line $135 led headlight I bought from a tractor supply store.

My opinion is the led headlight is awesome !!! It is a different type of lighting to get used to compared to what we are all use to in a halogen "beam" style headlight, and the led flood headlights just light up everything in 180 degrees. It's remarkable. And the lights require little to know amps.

But anyways if your interested then I can continue this write up with a whole instruction on how to wire up the battery and regulator/rectifier. As far as battery goes, we chose to use the battery that comes stock on a Yamaha ttr90 due to its small size and if you look on amazon or eBay, TMS makes a copy battery of the original for $23 shipped.

Anyways here are some pics of headlights as well as some battery mountings I did on some of the SSR pit bikes, as well as a 1977 Honda xr75 I installed a battery and led headlight on. ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1364350451.492095.jpgImageUploadedByThumper Talk1364350483.488109.jpgImageUploadedByThumper Talk1364350509.234514.jpgImageUploadedByThumper Talk1364350548.854198.jpgImageUploadedByThumper Talk1364350582.561786.jpgImageUploadedByThumper Talk1364350616.347280.jpgImageUploadedByThumper Talk1364350680.759440.jpgImageUploadedByThumper Talk1364350712.846742.jpgImageUploadedByThumper Talk1364350735.245263.jpgImageUploadedByThumper Talk1364350753.967773.jpgImageUploadedByThumper Talk1364350798.903796.jpgImageUploadedByThumper Talk1364350829.106041.jpgImageUploadedByThumper Talk1364350850.709015.jpgImageUploadedByThumper Talk1364350873.769086.jpg

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By the way, the metal cages that I used to house the small ttr90 batteries are actually from Walmart. They are metal baskets used to dry sponges on your sink, and are the perfect size for the ttr90 battery and only cost $6 at Walmart.

And for those of you wondering, yes these batteries are wired and be charged by the bike. They are not stand alone batteries.

So if you have any questions, ask away :-)

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hey, couple questions on the led lights. Any that you would suggest that are in the 50 dollar range and do they need a rectifier or can they be ran straight from the stator like the halogens. And do I need to look for a certain watt range to keep them from blowing? Thanks in advance

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I wouldn't recommend wiring the led directly. I attempted it and the varying current blew a couple of the LEDs.

So make sure and use a rectifier at a minimum. But without the battery, the led headlight won't be as bright as it could be. I would say only about 65% brightness.

Keep in mind that the battery doesn't need to be huge, just a storage for the light, and can be very small since the led headlight draws next to no current.

Here is a link for the led headlight on the red Honda xr75.

Look at this on eBay:

27W HIGH POWER LED LIGHT LAMP ATV UTV RAPTOR TRAILER RHINO 12V 24V 6K FLOOD

http://bit.ly/11uN8oI

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well if you want to give us directions on how to wire all this up and what rectifiers to get I certainly won't object. No rush though. Might be a little while before I get time to do it. But definitely want a headlight on the o'l pit bike. I do a lot of mountain riding and would like the option to not have to get home before dark. Appreciate you taking the time to share all this

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  • 10 months later...
  • 11 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Would these lights work in place of the ones you used? http://www.amazon.com/RioRand-Light-Lumen-Degree-Waterproof/dp/B00AZPI0NE/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_text_y 

and would i be able to run the head lights into this relay with 20amp fuse and then hook the yellow wire up to it? 

http://www.atvpartsmax.com/index.php/main_page/product_info/cPath/71_88/products_id/1169
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  • 4 months later...

Hello, i know this is a old thread, but i set a light up EXACLY as said above even with a fuse, yet i blew my only 2 bulbs :( i set it up on a old 125cc pit bike with a ducar engine.

 

So what is the problem? this is so anyoing, i will have to wait another month for more bulbs. 😢

 

Any help much apreciated.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 years later...

Wow, I have been looking everywhere for this info. I have a Lifan 125cc. I purchased two 18w led lights that work on 12 -24v. I purchased a battery, I have a rectifier, and I can't find anything online for wiring the battery to the engine for recharging, as well as to the lights. PLEASE... PLEASE upload instructions on wiring that up. I don't want to do It wrong and I've been killing myself to find such info. Please and thanks.. BTW here's the lights I'm using.

10 - 30V operating voltage

18w Power

LED Lights.jpg

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  • 1 month later...
On 3/9/2018 at 7:13 PM, JLieberg said:

Wow, I have been looking everywhere for this info. I have a Lifan 125cc. I purchased two 18w led lights that work on 12 -24v. I purchased a battery, I have a rectifier, and I can't find anything online for wiring the battery to the engine for recharging, as well as to the lights. PLEASE... PLEASE upload instructions on wiring that up. I don't want to do It wrong and I've been killing myself to find such info. Please and thanks.. BTW here's the lights I'm using.

10 - 30V operating voltage

18w Power

LED Lights.jpg

I'm doing kind of the same thing you're doing on an old Suzuki that had the AC headlight bulb.  First, make sure you have some kind of lighting coil on the stator.  I think you're bike is new enough that it will be for 12 volt INCANDESCENT lights so that will help.  See if you can find the advertised WATTAGE of the lighting coil. I say this because I'm not sure it will handle BOTH of those LED headlights you bought but I think you'll be impressed with the lighting of only one.  Google "lifan wiring diagram" , "GY6 wiring diagram" and "GY6 regulator/rectifier" and you'll see how they are typically wired.  Search "GY6" or "Universal rectifier/regulator" on ebay and you'll see some 4 pin units.  That's what you'd need.  BTW- to do this with LED lights which ALWAYS need DC (and all stators put out AC), if you don't use the system to charge a small battery, you may need a capacitor to smooth out any riple in the voltage which LED lights don't like and will flicker or be dim.   BTW- This is exactly what some KTM models do with a 12 volt reg/rect. with no battery.  They use a capacitor.  I can find the value if you need it.  Spend some time Googling cycle wiring diagrams (images) and look at the simplest ones that have a 2 wire output of the stator and a 4 wire rect/reg. and the ones you would "copy" would be the ones with no battery in the system. On those lights you bought, you can see how bright they should be by hooking it up to your car battery.  OBSERVE POLARITY!  The only reason a 12 volt LED light would be dim when hooked to a 12 volt rect/reg. is the AC  voltage from the stator is insuffecient and can't maintain 12 volt output.   BTW- I was an electronics tech for WAY too long.

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34 minutes ago, motoxvet said:

I'm doing kind of the same thing you're doing on an old Suzuki that had the AC headlight bulb.  First, make sure you have some kind of lighting coil on the stator.  I think you're bike is new enough that it will be for 12 volt INCANDESCENT lights so that will help.  See if you can find the advertised WATTAGE of the lighting coil. I say this because I'm not sure it will handle BOTH of those LED headlights you bought but I think you'll be impressed with the lighting of only one.  Google "lifan wiring diagram" , "GY6 wiring diagram" and "GY6 regulator/rectifier" and you'll see how they are typically wired.  Search "GY6" or "Universal rectifier/regulator" on ebay and you'll see some 4 pin units.  That's what you'd need.  BTW- to do this with LED lights which ALWAYS need DC (and all stators put out AC), if you don't use the system to charge a small battery, you may need a capacitor to smooth out any riple in the voltage which LED lights don't like and will flicker or be dim.   BTW- This is exactly what some KTM models do with a 12 volt reg/rect. with no battery.  They use a capacitor.  I can find the value if you need it.  Spend some time Googling cycle wiring diagrams (images) and look at the simplest ones that have a 2 wire output of the stator and a 4 wire rect/reg. and the ones you would "copy" would be the ones with no battery in the system. On those lights you bought, you can see how bright they should be by hooking it up to your car battery.  OBSERVE POLARITY!  The only reason a 12 volt LED light would be dim when hooked to a 12 volt rect/reg. is the AC  voltage from the stator is insuffecient and can't maintain 12 volt output.   BTW- I was an electronics tech for WAY too long.

So I appreciate the reply. I fortunately was able to get a t figured out.. In the end I wired the two lights in parralel and bought a 12v step up to 24v transformer.. wired in a fuse and have a rectifier.. everything turned out well... No flickering at all. I have also since installed a USB car charger the the fairings of my bike so now I can charge my phone ICO emergency.. :)

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I'm glad you figured smething that worked out!  I think anyone doing this really should go with LED's. That's what I'm doing.  Frist I have to rip out about 98% of the OE wiring like turn signals, etc.  I also re-habbed the OE bar switches so I can use them too.

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  • 1 year later...

What about wanting to run head light and brake light Install?

So I've spent countless hours trying to install a good headlight on a pit bike that will have a good solid light beam and after hours of trouble shooting have had success !
FIRST OFF DON'T WASTE YOUR TIME WITH REGULATORS AND RECTIFIERS. I'VE BEEN THERE AND DONE THAT, AND YOU WILL NOT LIKE THE LIGHT OUTPUT AS WELL AS THE HUGE DECREASE IN LIGHT FROM IDLE TO FULL THROTTLE. THIS TUTORIAL WILL GIVE YOU LOTS OF LIGHT AND SAVE YOU TIME IN MONEY AND PARTS !!
So here is what you need to do...
1. Go buy a good fog light from your local auto parts store. We chose a 5 1/4 round fog light so it matches the bike (brand name Pilot PL-2202C) that has a nice shallow base and is easy to mount. Plus it comes with 2 lights so you have a spare or another light to do another bike. While your there pick up a 100 watt H3 bulb for this pilot system. If your selection already has a 100 watt build then your good to go, make sure it's a 100 watt bulb !! The main idea here is to buy a light that has an H3 bulb so that you can upgrade the bulb to a 100 watt bulb. This is a must in order to be able to handle the varying AC current that comes from the stator.
WARNING !!! THIS WILL NOT WORK WITH A 55 WATT BULB !!!!
1. Ensure that your pit bike has a lighting coil. The easiest way to figure this out is to look at the wiring harness coming out of the left hand side of your motor case. If you have 5 or more wires then your good to go. If you only have 3 wires then there is no lighting coil on your stator and you will have to buy one off of eBay. Don't get discouraged though, they are only about $25 shipped and very easy to replace.
2. Buy a handlebar light switch. I bought mine from my local cycle gear store for $20. Works great and is just a simple 2 wire switch. This switch is important and has to be installed !! If you hard wire your headlight with no switch and attempt to start the bike with the headlight on every time you will still risk blowing the 100 watt bulb as well as wear out your stator because there is such a huge spike of AC current when you kick start the bike. MAKE SURE THE LIGHT IS IN THE OFF POSITION EVERY TIME YOU START THE BIKE !
3. Locate the yellow and white wires up in the wiring harness on your bike. You will need to remove the seat, fairings, and gas tank to do all of this work and give you all the space you need for a clean install running wires etc. the yellow and white wires may be tucked up in the harness inside the black sleeving so you may need to cut the black sleeving open in order to gain access to them. Once you have found the wires then your ready to install the headlight.
4. Run 2 wires directly from the headlight. Give yourself enough wire slack to work with so connect about a 3 foot lead of wire. So the next part is easy and I'm going to break this down in simple terms for everyone that isn't an electrician or understand wiring. Think of these 2 wires as the positive and negative on your battery in your car. If you connected one of the wire to the negative, and one to the positive, then your headlight will light up. If you want to try this out then pop the hood on your car and try it. It will get you excited to see how bright your headlight is going to be. So lets detail the 2 wires now.
***The positive side of the wire is always going to be the wire that connects to the H3 bulb (it is the white heat shielded wire with a flat male connector)***
***The negative wire will be the wire that connects to the H3 bulb housing***
Once you have those 2 connected. Mount the headlight to the front of the bike so that way you know you have enough slack in your wiring as you do your install. Make sure you keep moving your handlebars on the bike from side to side so you can see that the wires aren't to tight stopping you from turning the bars.
5. Install the headlight switch on the handlebars. Pick a side you want it on, it really doesn't matter. Now I suggest using this switch as a ground, thus eliminating the risk of a positive current from grounding out on the bars. So what your going to do is run the negative wire from the headlight up to this switch and connect to the darker colored wire coming from the switch. Then the other wire coming from the switch you will need to run another wire to and ground directly to the frame of the bike. So this is how your switch works just so you have an understanding:
Your negative wire from the headlight now runs through the switch and then grounded to the bike. Every time you flick the switch off it is like cutting that wire in half so the circuit is no longer there and the headlight had no ground, thus the light won't work.
Make sense ? I just like to make sure you understand what it is your actually doing when you do it, it helps during the install of the whole process.
6. Connect the positive wire to the yellow wire on the wiring harness. Now I have 5 pit bikes and have done this on all of the bikes. The yellow and white wire are connected to the lighting coil on the stator, which means that you can connect to either one of the wires, but I chose to connect to the yellow every time, and then cap the white wire to make sure it's protected and doesn't touch any other wires or the frame on the bike. Now you don't have to, but I chose to install a fuse in this wiring and put a 20 amp fuse in it to protect the light. This will ensure the fuse blows before the light bulb protecting your investment.
NOW THIS WORKED ON ALL SSR AND MOST PIT BIKES... BUT NOT ON MY ROKETA !
On the ROKETA pit bike the stator lighting coil is not grounded so you have to do this instead. Connect the white wire to the positive wire coming from the headlight and then take the yellow wire and ground to the frame of the bike. This will complete the lighting coil circuit and will work. (Other bikes may have this same issue but I don't know what all bikes may have this wiring issue as well so if the first way doesn't work then try this method).
Now zip tie up all your wires for a clean install, and use shrink wrap or electrical tape to protect all your connection points from moisture. Reinstall your gas tank, fairings and seat.
Start the bike and enjoy a headlight that is as bright as a car headlight.
YOU NOW GET YO ENJOY SOME BAD A** NIGHT RIDING !!
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2 hours ago, Gromtard said:

What about wanting to run head light and brake light Install?

We live in the LED age now.  You will need to install a reg/rec for LED's to function properly.

You will also notice that the OP completely reversed himself about three posts later.  I wonder what the bike looks like now 6 years later?

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