Best deal cost and function

[allterra]

Well it has come time for new brake pads and rotors. I have a 07 wr 450. My riding is 30/70 road and trail. The trail consists of alot of deep sand and deep mud. I am looking for a operationally "good" yet relatively inexpensive setup for the front and rear. Not much of what I have looked at has any real meaning to me as for advantage or disadvantage. In short I don't know what I'm looking at or for. Please help.

[MANIAC998]

I've had the best luck with the stock pads. I've tried some of the aftermarket stuff, and while I can't remember exactly which ones I've tried, I do remember that they just didn't have the same amount of friction and would take much more effort to produce the same level of stopping power.

[YamaLink]

I've done the brake pad merry go round and always prefer oem.

[allterra]

Wow.... I am surprised to hear that OEM is actually the way to go. Thanks.

[NB061]

OEM for pads, like YamaLink said.

[Bandit9]

I've used several different brands (Braking, EBC, SBS, galfer), but always sintered pads. Can't say I have noticed much difference in performance in any of them either.

My brake pads seem to last forever on the WR.

[allterra]

I've always used OEM pads on my YZ and had to changed them once a year 3 years in a row. I replaced the pads (OEM) on the WR when I bought it last year. Now the rotors are out of spec,( front 2.15mm .084in, rear 2.94mm .115in) and I need pads. To me this seems to be way out of spec, (front 2.5mm .10in, rear 3.5mm .14in) or am I just getting taken by the book specs? I don't want to have them break and take out the calipers. Unfortunately i did not take a reading as to what they were when I bought it. There was a ridge on the top of the rotors but not as pronounced as it seems to be now. Is there a general rule for dirtbikes IE.change the pads 4-5 times then change the rotors? The only bike I have ever had to replace rotors on is my 94 HD and since they went over 100,000 mi I replaced them with the OEM rotors.

[MANIAC998]

I've never had to replace a rotor, and I've never had one break either. I don't even know if they would break! They are extremely flexable that's for sure, as I've bent a couple out here hitting rocks.

[katze300rr]

Tried, from worse to best SBC, EBC and OEM.

OEM are far, far better pads

[FORMA MOTO]

OEM pads front and rear.

Solid discs for regular mud rides

OEM for regular rides

Braking brand Over Size front for Dual Sport, with sintered EBC pads

[Navaho6]

As Krannie suggested, go with a solid disc with sintered pads if you see a lot of mud. I don't like the squeal that sintered pads sometimes make, and I prefer the feel of carbon pads much more than sintered. If you get caught in a rain on the trail you can eat half way through a set of carbon pads very quickly so I alway's put on sintered when needed.

[n16ht5]

I've never had to replace a rotor, and I've never had one break either. I don't even know if they would break! They are extremely flexable that's for sure, as I've bent a couple out here hitting rocks.

I've broke/bent 3 rotors. I go with OEM pads and the cheapest rockymountain rotor or ebay rotor I can find.

[LucasLeader]

I bent the front rotor and replaced it with a Tusk. It was WAY cheaper than OEM. It's a little thicker than OEM which might help prevent bending it again and seems to work just as well. I still have some pulsing though. Not sure if the rotor was a little out of spec or the pads are causing it. For pads I use EBC reds and they work great and last but I have heard from a lot of people on different bikes prefer OEM pads. I would stay away from the Neutron brand pads. I put some on the rear of my DR650 and they have noticeably less bite than the EBCs or OEM.

Edited February 21, 2013 by LucasLeader

[beezer]

I wouldn't replace the rotors unless they were really bad.

I never liked aftermarket pads either.

You can prolly find OEM rotors on eBay for less money.