Tubliss Q

[J_YZ2fittyX]

I know there are a lot of threads out there about these, I have been reading all the ones I can find, lol.

From a more specific standpoint... I have a new set of michelin s12 xc's. In fact, not even in my hands yet. I do have a set of HD tubes i was thinking of putting in there. But, the thought of neutechs keeps creeping up on me. Our trails have a LOT of sand. I would like to run pretty low PSI. However, there are some areas with some rocks, AND I may take the bike elsewhere this year where there may be a lot more rocks. I may try to put my MX51s back on at that point though. I wouldn't be worried about low pressure pinch flats if it was purely sand. However, the rocks, roots, logs, etc. etc.

Anyhow, my big questions are.

1) Does corner handling with say 7-8psi improve or get worse? I know I see a lot about straight line traction etc. But if its a sandy corner, or even a slightly harder one...is there a "roll" effect that affects cornering negatively? Wasn't sure if certain tires handled this kind of thing better due to side wall strength.

2 ) I was considering just doing the rear, and putting the HD tube in the front with an extra rim lock in the event it goes flat i could make it back (or is this stupid? Lol).

3) Would I have excessive chunking/wear on the soft tire using again for example sake, 7-8psi.

4) Is it really THAT much of a traction difference from 10psi to say 6psi min...or should I just stick to around 10psi and HD tubes.

I ran 10 on my wr last season. I was fatter, the bike was heavier, lol...same tire BUT 18" wheel. See now I have a 19" on my YZ, which could also factor into the pinch flat/rim damage at low PSI.

Anyhow, I have been going back and forth in my mind for days, any help would be nice. Would like to order/install it asap when I get/do tires. thanks

Edited February 20, 2013 by J_WR2fitty

[CBus660R]

Typically, cornering get's worse the softer you go with tire pressure since it allows the tire to squirm. If the conditions are really soft, that is less of an issue. The one thing Tublis does that allows you to run softer tire pressure (above and beyond the pinch flat issue) is that it keeps the side wall firmer since a hard hit can not push the bead off the edge of the rim down into the center section. This is what allows you to run lower pressure and maintain the turning ability of a firmer tire and get the tire wrap around roots, rocks, etc... for better straight line traction. As far as chunking and tearing knobs, whether you're tubed or Tublis, it's about the same, mostly from spinning a soft terrain tire on rocks. Not much you can do about that if the conditions are mostly soft where you want an S12 for most of the trail. A couple of issues specific to Tublis that you should be aware of. The first is for them to hold air consistently, you need to have a clean and dent free rim and start with a new tire. If you like to flip tires to get the most mileage out of them, you will have leakdown issues. Now, it's not so much you'll lose a lot during a 3-4 hour ride, but it can go flat in a couple days. Not that it's a real big issue since you should be checking your tire pressure before each ride anyways.

[J_YZ2fittyX]

Ah thanks. Yea I have read a good deal about them. Including the new tire, clean rim, etc. I know the bead edge of my wheels have a little rubber stuck in em...probably have to use w/e to get that out if i decide to do tubliss. Kinda have to decide soon, lol. Thought about just in the rear, and possibly dual bead locks in the front in case of a flat i could limp it back. Plus i dont need the front AS low as id want the rear psi wise.

Siigh, i dunno maybe ive spent enough on this thing this winter, and I'll just run the HD tubes til proven otherwise. My main reason for the tubliss was to run the low psi for traction, not gonna get a pinch flat too often with the amount of sand we primarily have (knock on wood).

[Chuck.]

I've run Tubliss front and rear on several bikes, great for traction via the option of low pressure and protection of the rim if you have a puncture, if you have a puncture you can ride out because the Tubliss keeps the tire bead tight against the rim. That doesn't however protect you from damaging the casing of a tube type tire from running low or no pressure, a coating of Slime can help repair casing leaks.

I won't go back to tubes.

.

[metal_miracle]

When mine had air in them i loved the traction and flex it gave..

But next time... i am gone mount or dismount the tubliss.. i am gone cover the rim edge whit silver tape

[Mikel.Laundry]

clean the rim where the bead seats with a wire brush on a grinder. thats what we use in the shop on cars .

[FORMA MOTO]

1) Does corner handling with say 7-8psi improve or get worse? I know I see a lot about straight line traction etc. But if its a sandy corner, or even a slightly harder one...is there a "roll" effect that affects cornering negatively? Wasn't sure if certain tires handled this kind of thing better due to side wall strength. THAT HAS TO DO WITH TIRE SIDEWALL JUST AS MUCH AS TIRE PRESSURE. I USE A 'STIFFER' SIDEWALL WITH MY TUBLESS, LIKE THE MX71. IF YOU USE A PIRELLI SCORPION Mx, THEN YOU WILL HAVE TO USE MORE PRESSURE. 10 IN THE FRONT IS AS LOW AS I CAN GO. I CAN GO 7 IN THE BACK, BUT IT FEELS WEIRD.

2 ) I was considering just doing the rear, and putting the HD tube in the front with an extra rim lock in the event it goes flat i could make it back (or is this stupid? Lol).

YES, IT IS DUMB. THE GOAL OF TUBLISS IT TO SUBSTANTIALLY DECREASE UNSPRUNG WEIGHT, AND INCREASE TIRE TRACTION AND FEEL.

3) Would I have excessive chunking/wear on the soft tire using again for example sake, 7-8psi.

4) Is it really THAT much of a traction difference from 10psi to say 6psi min...or should I just stick to around 10psi and HD tubes.

I ran 10 on my wr last season. I was fatter, the bike was heavier, lol...same tire BUT 18" wheel. See now I have a 19" on my YZ, which could also factor into the pinch flat/rim damage at low PS

DOESN'T MATTER

Anyhow, I have been going back and forth in my mind for days, any help would be nice. Would like to order/install it asap when I get/do tires. thanks

TUBLISS IS EXPENSIVE.

TUBLISS IS A PAIN IN THE ASS TO INSTALL,

TUBLISS DOES WEAR OUT, ESPECIALLY IF YOU RUN WITH A FLAT FOR ANY LENGTH OF TIME (15 MILES).

HAVING SAID ALL THAT, THE INCREASED TIRE FEEL, LESS WEIGHT, AND THE ABILITY TO PLUG A TIRE AND PATCH IT WITHOUT HAVING THE REMOVE THE WHEEL IS FANTASTIC

[drdanbozeman]

TUBLISS IS A PAIN IN THE ASS TO INSTALL,

I second this one. Yesterday I tried to mount a Dunlop 952 on the front rim. I read the directions several times and watched the Tubliss installation video as well. I simply could not get the second tire bead onto the rim. Found it hard/impossible to push the tire bead down into the drop center of the rim while spooning the bead on toward the rim lock, as a result there was absolutely no slack in the bead circumference. Had the bead lubed with RuGlyde from NAPA.

I gave up - will take it to my bike shop, as they mounted the last set of wheels that I used the Tubliss with.

[El Liebre]

It is a pain in the ass but i figured all tire changes are. The tubliss was the first tire instalation I'v ever done,(never installed any convential tube and tire combo). The front holds air great and never had to add a pound since I've installed it. The rear on the other hand sort of has this mystery leak. No holes cause I checked it by submurging it in the bath tub. Some times it will hold its air for weeks and other times just a few days. Can't figure it out , but anyways its not a big deal.

As mentioned above a tire with a thick side is essential, I use MX71's front and rear. 9psi up front and 5.5 in the rear. Cornering is awesome at the track, I have more confidence than I ever did. Wet or dry it doesn't matter it hooks up nice.