Cornering Derelict

Duuude - you crack me up!!

Same problem here. Perhaps we can form a ClubMoto can't corner club.

I've been trying every technique in the book. Getting much better, but still have a very long way to go. Would be great to get some off bike video I'm sure I would look sorry.



I'm in! I'm ready to hook up for a ride when ever you are! I must tell you though. I'm very good a starts, because evertime I enter a corner, exiting is like starting from a dead stop again. I'm the only guy on the track that has 15 starts per lap! Let me know if you want to hook up.


I have found that cornering on these bikes is easier for me than I thought it would be. You DO need to have your correct body position on any bike.

The farther I get up on the seat, the easier it is to corner. This also helps to weight the front wheel and eliminate some of the pushing. Keeping my elbows up also places more weight on the front wheel.

The more I roll the gas on (instead of just cracking the throttle open) the more I am able to use the tractability of the engine. I also weight the outside peg. This results in less of the rear end wash out and keeps you driving forward.

Momentum into the corner equals momentum out of the corner. If I slow down too much entering the corner, I feel the need to get back up to speed as quickly as possible. I then end up cracking the open and the rear end wants to wash out. The smoother you go in, the smoother you go out.

I like to stand as much as possible. I stand braking and entering into the corner, sit long enough to get around the corner and stand as soon as possible to get out of the corner and down the straight.

When I was at Glen Helen for the Vet Nationals I watched the top guys and their cornering. They get on the gas soooo early. That means they get their braking done while approaching the corner and get on the gas just after entering the corner. Those guys are soooo fast.

There are so many little things that need to come together to make just one good corner. Physical conditioning, mental preperation, quality equipment, good tires, proper jetting, condition of the track/dirt, etc., etc., etc. The only way we can get better is to get some good advise and practice...practice...practice.

I'm exhausted just thinking about it!!! I think I'll go hit the fridge and get a beverage of choice.


Amador - I'm sure we have run into each other out at Club Moto and just didn't know it. I hit the track about 2 or 3 times a month. Wish I could do more, but I'm usually only there on the weekends.

Met EbayThumper out there a few weeks ago. Cool dude.

Once I heal up thy leg, I'll write ya. I'm making some changes to the bike and can't wait to test it all out.




Excellent post! I think you gave some very sound advice.

Gary Semics has some good videos outlining these techniques as well. They are advertised in most of the mx rags.

I just wanted to take a moment and tell you all how bad I suck at cornering. :) I clear every jump on the track no problem. I hold it wide in the straights, sweeping turns are a blast, but when I get into tight turns I flounder around like a crackhead! Everytime I try to push it, I either loop around or push my front end around. I am a fairly skilled rider in a lot of areas, but when it comes down to the most important part, cornering speed, I loose out to just about everyone on the track. Perhaps this is why people turn into freestylers? Not that I could do that either. Now Excuse me while I go suck on my exhaust pipe- :D

I think it must be the bike, since I hear this problem often, and I have it too. I'm finally getting resonably fast in the turns unless there are big 125 ruts in it, and this I think I'll never master. I hate ruts!!! I've tried everything I can to master ruts but they eat my lunch every time I ride a track with them. Let me know if you find a solution, otherwise let's just go ride...

No it is not the bike the Yamaha corners good.

The major mistake people make in cornering is

they get forward alright but then they pull the

foot back and even dab in the dirt at times. This

stands the bike up and leaves you behind. The

secret is to practice going slow and keeping that

foot forward and off the ground staying smooth.

My corners sucked until I received this tip from

a world four stroke champion. The best riders have this problem also and they must work on it

just like we do, but how many will slow down for

awhile to go faster later? Not Many! Check your

radiator shrouds they should be showing a lot

of wear at the front.

Sounds good Dave, your probably right. You know when you're at the track and you see a guy pull up, and you think to yourself- Wow, that guy must be good. He has a sick bike, all of the best gear, revin' to the moon as to get everyones attention- then you see him get on the track and along with everyone else, you smoke him? That guy is me! Seriously though, you can't miss me. I've got a 426 with the Yamaha of Troy graphics, rear fender and side panels are silver, and the front number plate is a big Vans sticker- very easy to spot. What did you do to your leg?

Thanks for all of the great info guys. I'll try to remember all of it while that pack of 80's is ripping by me- I hate those little Bas*$@ds!

Thanks for all of the great info guys. I'll try to remember all of it while that pack of 80's is ripping by me- I hate those little Bas*$@ds!


Just make sure those 80's dont get sucked into you air filter! LOL


I snapped the tib and fib last January on the Troll trail at Holister. Hit a tree stump.

Last Friday a week ago, I had all the metal taken out they put in to get the bones back in place.

Feels good, so I may actually hit the track sooner than I thought. Can't sit still for too long.

I'll let ya know if I'll be there this weekend.


Interesting thread, especially after a discovery I made over the

weekend. A little history:

I'd waited almost a year to set my sag correctly. My bad, but hey,

the bike is so much fun to ride that I didn't wanna work on it.

I had the bike set up (with 3.5 inches race sag) and it turned *very*

well. I set the sag to 4" and the bike didn't turn as well. I raised

the forks approx 2mm on Saturday and it transformed the cornering

ability of the bike, and me. The top of the clamps are now flush with

the little groove in the top of the forks, about 4mm (?) down. The

difference in how the bike turned was pretty dramatic.

Bottom line? Maybe it's not just your technique (which should be exactly what Ernie posted) but a little bit of bike setup.

Also, rode a 450F on the same day. With proper cornering technique,

I didn't notice drastic push I've been reading about. I'd probably raise

the forks 1-2mm on that bike and it'll carve just fine. The owner of

the 450 rode my bike and noticed a similar push with my bike but not

as dramatic. IMHO, *that* was his technique and not bike setup.

I had to get very far forward on the CR but it turned just fine.

Anyway, maybe this'll help...


Actually, I have been wondering about my bike set up. As a matter of fact I'm dropping it off tonight to get hooked up. Thanks for the input. I'll let ya know how it works.



Good job!! I totally forgot to give info on the bike set-up. Thanks for following up on this topic.


Make sure that whoever works on your suspension knows what they are doing. Nothing worse than getting it back and it was worse than before. Someone who works on suspension should ask your skill level or at least know your riding style and preference (moto vs desert vs trail).



That is a tough call. Remember the parts listed on Race Techs web site are retail. If he is in business he gets the parts for dealer cost....alot less than you or I would pay!! That actually doesn't sound like a bad price. $150.00 per end with springs sounds like the springs and service only, no valving changes. Springs usually run anywhere from $70-$90 per end (retail).

Has he been around for a while?? Is he willing to give you references to contact??


Thanks yzernie,

I actually decided not to take it to this guy. I need to do more research. As funny as it sounds, his price was so cheap it made me nervous. He was going to do Front springs, oil, seals, Rear spring, shock service, grease linkage and set race sag. All for $300.00. And he said he uses RaceTech parts. I looked up on the website and just the parts alone cost that much. What do you think??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now