Anyone have Specs for Yamalube?

Hey guys, my neighbor and I have been into this oil study/debate for a couple of weeks now and neither of us have ran across the data sheets for Yamalube. I know a lot of people in this forum have trashed Yamalube, he runs it in his Raptor, I don't run it in my 426, but we're both wondering what the constituents are for real.

Personally, after doing the research I've done, I'm running Mobil Delvac 1300 Super. Yeah, I'm a little bit nervous from not going with the flow (motorcycle specific oil) but until someone convinces me that paying between $4-$8 a quart for "motorcycle" oil (that is dumped every other ride or so) is actually better I can't justify in my mind the outrageous costs for other oils.

Thanks in advance

Rich - Vegas

I'm not sure about Yamalube.

I do know that running non-motorcycle spec. oil caused my clutch to slip after a while. (This was on my previous bike; 98 YZ400)

Interesting story: I thought I needed to replace my clutch. I went to Cycle Gear in Hayward and the regional manager was there. I told him I wanted a clutch and he told me he doubted my clutch needed replacing. (I was surprised he didn't want to sell it to me.) The next thing he said is are you running non-motorcycle oil. Sure enough, I scuffed up my plates and started using motorcycle oil again and everything was fine after that.

Motorcycle oil apparently has special additives for the clutch.

Interesting about your clutch. I haven't had any signs of clutch problems.

According to the research I've done on this board there are no such things as (motor cycle or clutch additives, [per retired oil industry chemist article]). Sounds like you may have been using a car oil with friction fighters (energy conserving label) which caused your clutch to slip. From what I've read even a full synthetic motorcycle oil can cause clutch problems.

The oil I'm using is not energy conserving and hasn't affected the clutch at all. It's a 15-40 weight premium dino oil. It's also rated by Caterpillar for transmissions.

I'm just a little curious on how the Yamalube compares.


I'm not a scientist or lab geek but I can tell you that Yamalube is OK. I have been racing YZ-F's since they came out at the end of 97. I have used only Yamalube 4 (20w-40) and have never had an oil related failure...or a failure of any other kind!! I raced my 98 400 for three years and never even had to replace the clutch. As often as we change the oil in these bikes, I cannot justify the extra expense of the Yamalube 4R, semi sinthetic oil.

The problem with automotive oils is that they do not contain anti-shearing agents. These agents keep the oil from getting beat to death by the clutch and gearbox. In all honesty, if you change your oil after every ride or two, the automotive oils will probably be ok. I do have concerns about the clutch slipping. Some people complain about a slipping clutch and some don't.


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