XR650R Carb on a XR650L

I am getting ready to install this mod, and plan on modifing my L throttle cables to start with. Those that have cut the conduit back 1", which end of the cable did you do, and what tool did you use? Thanks.

I am getting ready to install this mod, and plan on modifing my L throttle cables to start with. Those that have cut the conduit back 1", which end of the cable did you do, and what tool did you use? Thanks.

i used the R cables but the easiest way wud be to take the deminsions/lenghts from an R cable and just trim the L's to that length...if it's all plastic use a knife...not sure if there's a metal core or not but if so maybe sum small snips.

i'm definately bumping the pilot to a 68s along with the HRC needle...with the cooler denser dry air we have here now my throttle chop burble is now more of a popping that the fuel screw can't adjust out (2 3/4 turns)...i did sum roll-on testing on the way to a ride and it wus inconclusive but may bump the main to a 165...i'll report back when i make the changes. :)

:lol:

P.S. i will refrane from using too many of the "smirks" on this thread since one board member who will remain nameless :lol: gave me my first (edit) "flatulence" (edit)for using them here :lol:

All of the carb threads are very tempting. I really need to decide which carb to go to. Stock "R" carb, edelbrock Q, Mikuni, etc etc etc.

I remember running Mikuni smoothbores on my Kawi tripple years ago and I recall it making a huge difference in performance. Maybe I should just get a Mikuni 41 and be done with it?

What are the markings "ex. b53e" on the stock needle? The b53e is the HRC needle.

thanks

I stepped into a used Edelbrock 38mm QSII on Ebay. I bought this to either put it on my son's XR650L or my XR650R. It's on the "L" now. It had a left side cable mounting bracket which was broken. I had to make one from scratch out of steel and that was not exciting using the original CV carb cable bracket. I ran the stock "L" cables behind the bars and down the left side of the frame. I don't suggest trying this................buy their cables and throttle assy.

The seller claimed it was the only damage on the carb.......It also had the accelerator pump bypass screw bent, the accelerator pump cup was cut in two places, it was missing the check ball in the pump well, the check valve in the fuel bowl and also the slide would stick in the wide open position. Terrific.......

I got the phone number for Edelbrock in Torrance, Ca. and explained what

parts I needed and Art was incredibly helpful getting me exactly what I needed to get the carb to work again. Since I live in Huntington Beach I just rode my motorcycle over and picked up the parts. He also set me up with a new 15E needle that replaced the 5K. I measured the two and I see very little difference but the taper is different according to their charts. I checked the A/P operation in the sink first and (be careful) it will shoot you in the eye

as it goes all the way through the carb.

I adjusted the needle setting and the accelerator pump bypass and it fired instantly with a couple of throttle pumps. It pulls strong from idle up to about 80 mph which was about as fast as I cared to go that day with black clouds threatening to rain any second. When I got home I felt for sure that it needed the 16E needle but the exhaust is so choked off it seemed about normal

I have a sneaky suspicion that the "R" Keihin 40mm "jetted correctly" is going to be a better top end performer than this 38mm Edelbrock I have. For the low end performance (anti-flooding) the Edelbrock is going to be a better choice. Midrange to 3/4 throttle is a toss up.......

Keep in mind that Edelbrock recommends:

36x40mm Carb #3115 for the XR650R 19E needle 18 Clicks

34x40mm Carb #3117 for the Xr650L 15E needle 18 clicks

I have the older 38mm Ebrock 15E @ 18 clicks 1.5 turns on the A/P bypass.

Stock "L" engine, air box snorkle off, smog equip off, stock headers with the baffle cut off inside.

When I catch my breath I might get the Keihin 40mm back on the

"L" again with Kenzo's jetting and compare.

HBLARRY

i used the R cables but the easiest way wud be to take the deminsions/lenghts from an R cable and just trim the L's to that length...if it's all plastic use a knife...not sure if there's a metal core or not but if so maybe sum small snips.

Yeah, there is a metal sleeve. A dremel with a cut off wheel is better.

What I did was to use a single stock R cable with the stock L throttle assembly. I did that by making a new cable bracket on the carb side. I used a flat piece of aluminum and bent it to fit similar to the original bracket, just changing the distances involved. :lol:

Kawidad,

Got a picture of that bracket you made? I'd really like to see how you made your's.........you mentioned using

just the pull cable.

I made a nice one out of aluminum for the Edelbrock and scrapped it because I thought it would eventually crack and break. Especially if I bent it to to fit.......the cables really needed to come in at a 45 degree angle to work properly and it became a compound angle and offset to the throttle wheel and to the carb body. It made me nuts.

I need to make another one for the Keihin 40mm and I want to use the stock "L" push and pull cables.

HBLARRY

I'll try to get one up.

kawidad- did you use the push or pull cable from the R or do you know? For some reason I didn't think the R cables would work at all with the L throttle.

thanks

kawidad- did you use the push or pull cable from the R or do you know? For some reason I didn't think the R cables would work at all with the L throttle.

thanks

one of the R's cables has a larger end-piece that will not fit the stock L throttle tube...at least not without modifications.

if u used only one of the cables it wud be the "pull" to open, since the other "pull" to close wud not operate the carb...

:lol:

P.S. my 68s pilot, HRC needle and sum misc. main jets shud arrive this week and i will report back with the results.

I don't know which one, but only one will work. The other one is too big at the throttle tube assembly side. The one I used only had a single nut at the carb side, so in order to center it and get the proper adjustment I cut another nut of the same size. I used a dremel with a cut-off wheel and cut a slot so that it would go over the cable and then screwed it in place. The nut will not be as strong, but it really doesn't have to be, since its really only there for tension adjustment and the potential movement is minimal.

PICT0044.jpg

Sorry it took so long, but I wanted to take it on a long ride to test it out. I did and it worked perfectly. :lol:

PICT0044.jpg

Sorry it took so long, but I wanted to take it on a long ride to test it out. I did and it worked perfectly. :lol:

i'm pretty sure the R cable w/ one nut is the top "pull to close"...

looks gud...i wud slightly adjust the bracket u fabricated so the cable wus not coming out at an angle...so it's not rubbing on the theaded end :worthy:

:banghead:

P.S. got the jets and HRC needle set in just need the time to install and test :busted:

i'm pretty sure the R cable w/ one nut is the top "pull to close"...

looks gud...i wud slightly adjust the bracket u fabricated so the cable wus not coming out at an angle...so it's not rubbing on the theaded end :lol:

:banghead:

P.S. got the jets and HRC needle set in just need the time to install and test :busted:

Yeah, it's not ideal, but it looks worse in the photo than what it really is. It's not bad enough to remake it right now.

So, you got your jets and needles, and.......................????:worthy:

Kawidad,

Looks like a fairly simple fabrication and it gets you up and runnin'.

I would agree with Kenzo that it needs just a few more degrees

of inclination to the throttle wheel. I almost reached for my channel

locks to tweak it for you.

With that strong return spring..........it's probably all you really need.

Thanks for the photo.........

HBLARRY

HBLARRY

Do these jets make me look fat?

Ok I got this thing installed and running 68s pilot, 165 main, b53e(hop up needle) 4th position, stock internals on the engine, uni filter and a supper-trap isd2 8 discs.

I am getting poping at 3/4+ throttle, rough idle +/-150 rpm, smooths out around 2000 rpm. Fired right up and warmed up fast, no choke needed, when I open the choke RPM picks right up and it smooths out, fuel screw didn't seem to doing anything. What do you think?

Thanks

Do these jets make me look fat?

Ok I got this thing installed and running 68s pilot, 165 main, b53e(hop up needle) 4th position, stock internals on the engine, uni filter and a supper-trap isd2 8 discs.

I am getting poping at 3/4+ throttle, rough idle +/-150 rpm, smooths out around 2000 rpm. Fired right up and warmed up fast, no choke needed, when I open the choke RPM picks right up and it smooths out, fuel screw didn't seem to doing anything. What do you think?

Thanks

i've been slack'n on installing the 68s, HRC needle and mains greater than a 160 :moon: anyway...

if the idle does not change when u close the fuel screw VS opening it, the 68s is too big...my 65s tests gud but sometimes i feel it needs to be a bit richer...

try running it with the airbox cover off and see if anything improves...

try the second clip position down on the needle...

try a roll-on roll-off test for the main and see what happens...my 160 tests gud :p

ur beginning to make me wonder if i wasted money buying the jets and needle i haven't installed yet...mine runs pretty damn gud w/ the 65s, stock needle raised the max and a 160 main...just look'n to improve it a bit

report back and lets us know ur results :moon:

:ride:

P.S. for the hunting idle make sure ur boots are tight and there's no air inleakage besides too big of pilot...

Come on Kenzo, I'm counting on ya before I install my 68 pilot. :p

I've got the 65 now with a 165 main and I forget which needle in the middle groove with shim. It pops on decel, but otherwise runs really well. I've been debating about trying the #68 to cure that pop.:ride:

kawidad- Can't recomend the 68s 165 combo at this point. Are you using a 65s or 65 pilot? Have you done any engine mods (cams, porting, etc)?

And what is the fuel screw set at?

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