1,266 posts in this topic
By Baja Designs
Hello CRF450R Owners,
Bailey here with Baja Designs. We recognize ThumperTalk as one of the go-to sources for information on the CRF450R and we receive emails daily regarding the best inexpensive light setup or purchasing the B1K setup ran by Ox Motorsports. We would like this thread to be a General Discussion area for members and guests to discuss Dual Sport Kits (DSK), Lights, and Lighting Acessories based upon stock and modified charging systems. Please Post up if you have any questions or comments CRF450R related!
I had been considering for quite a while this preload adjuster, but the price put me off. I saw it listed on Amazon, so threw it on my wish list at $154, free shipping + tax. I received a notice a couple weeks later that price dropped to $146 + tax, so I pulled the trigger and ordered it. I did a little research on best way to pull the shock. I removed muffler, unbolted top of shock, disconnect bottom linkage from frame/shock/swingarm but really only needed to remove at frame and shock, and pulled shock out at area right side of bike near airbox boot. It was tricky but got it in & out through there. Had to use ratchet strap to compress spring to get locking ring back on bottom of shock with Xtrig installed. It really works slick and I’m happy with it! I measured the spring compressed with shock removed & used this as starting point when going back together once Xtrig was installed. For 16 500 RS, I ordered XTRIG 500010800101 Shock Pre-Load Adjuster. Amazon wish list is pretty handy!
So I’m doing some fixing on my 2001 CR 250 R. I’m going through all the issues on the off-season trying to freshen up the bike for this spring. I have watched multiple videos of people repairing radiators that were pretty bent up. Mine is slightly worse than any I’ve seen repaired, it does not leak and does not overheat (haven’t rode it in the blazing summer heat but 60-70 degrees it was fine)
I guess I’m wondering has anyone repaired a crinkled up radiator successfully and did it work with no leaks or is repairing something this dented up going to have to be took to a shop?
I’m basically just wanting to get it as good as possible without having to put more money in it or take it to a shop and or replace them which is inevitably going to need to be done at some point.
By Marco Bacci
Hello guys, I’m Marco from Italy, it’s a long time that I’m reading various posts here in the forum, they are very helpful, so I’ve decide to ask you for some suggestions. . I'm writing brcause ask for advice for the Showa 47 ex CRF450R that I took to mount them on a Beta Xtrainer (which as you it comes with poor suspensions). The Beta as long as you go slowly behaves very well, then as soon as you get up the pace becomes not very stable, so I found these Showa close to home very well placed at an honest price and I decided to buy them. What has been done up to now, as well as a complete overhaul, has been to shorten the stroke from 315 mm to 280 mm to respect the original geometry and replace the springs with 0.42 kg / mm. Now, I imagine that the hydraulics, is quite sustained so before installing them I wanted to put my hands on the shim stack but without spending a lot of money since I use the bike only on the weekend and I do not have to race, the initial idea was to copy the pyramid crf250x but I thought that maybe intervening on the shims present you can do something without upsetting the configuration too much (like removing or moving shims). This is my basic configuration, http://i63.tinypic.com/9qgw48.jpg, if you have any advice on how to move it would be welcome, even combining preload spring and oil to be inserted into the forks. What I was looking for is to get a slightly softer fork in the first part of the stroke and reading around I seem to have understood that already intervening on the bypass something is obtained. To finish weight about 72 kg without enduro garments, so around 80 kg dressed in overalls protectors and boots.
Thanks a lot in advance and happy holidays to everyone.