Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Starter pt2/bikes clapped out

Recommended Posts

Found a mechanic that my buddys(not friends,after this I don't even consider them aquaintences,but that's another story)use.

He's a great mechanic and isn't too expensive,he definetly knows his shit.

So my starter was the bearing and 1 other piece + he did my fork seals and opened up the airbox

When I picked it up he just shook his head and tells me my bike needs a new engine

said the rod or the bearing for the rod is bad,and its an expensive fix

That's why my bike sat on craigslist for 6mos,the seller told me he had several offers for around $1000 and wouldn't take less than $1500.I bit and got bit in the ass :foul:

I guess my advice would be,if your not a mechanic,hire one to check the bike out BEFORE you buy.I know there was a guy on craigslist that would meet you at the sellers house to check the bike out for $35bucks.Hindsight is 20/20 tho,shoulda woulda coulda :foul:

So now I got over $2000 into a 9yr old bike that needs a new engine,sux,that was it.I'll never have the $$$ again to buy a bike again.

Was listed as a low hr,new top end,old man owned,never abused.Horses#!t,I got burned :cry: :cry: :cry:

F'n heartbroken :cry: :cry: :cry:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bummer :(

Very sorry to hear that, but "new engine" sounds a bit harsh. Cranks get replaced all the time.

My suggestion would be to consider doing it yourself. Reason? You'll save a ton of money and learn a lot in the process. At worst even if it blows up after the repair, your no worse off then you are now and you'd be able to part the bike out to recoup some of your money.

I think if you shop around, even with buying some of the special tools required, you'll be under $500 to replace the rod and crank (or get a crank rebuild). Between the shop manual, you tube videos (RM ATV has a nice series on rebuilding a bottom end), and a digital camera to document everything as you take it apart, it's a pretty straight forward process.

I'm not trying to make it sound overly simplistic; you do need to go slow and be through, but it's not rocket science.

I'd also ask the mechanic if he'd look it over for a few bucks once you had it apart and tell you what needs to be replaced and maybe help out a bit if you get stuck on something.

Food for thought anyway...

Jim.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks

The Mech said I had many hrs left in the bike,but that's going to need fixed eventualy.

Edited by Bonefrost

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks

The Mech said I had many hrs left in the bike,but that's going to need fixed eventualy.

:ride:

And his reason for saying that? It just doesn't add up...I'm not sure how he can say it has many hours left and on then say it needs a new engine. I'm certainly not the best mechanic in the world, but from what I know potential Crank/Rod failure can be spotted in only two ways:

1. Gold flakes in the oil - this means the thrust washers are getting chewed up and failure is just around the corner.

2. Knocking is evident - The rods loose on either the crank or the wrist pin, both of which means failure is right around the corner.

Outside of that, you would need to disassemble the motor and check the tolerences to be able to a make a statement like "it has many hours left" or "it needs a new motor".

If you do have either one of the above, then I would pull it apart now before it does become a lot more expensive.

Jim.

Edited by JimDettman

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i agree with jim even if you dont fancy doing it all yourself save some money by taking the engine out of the frame that will be an hour or two save money wise its the labour that puts the price up so do as much as you can be methodical if you can take the head and barrel off too even better but if its knocking or got a really bad vibe dont ride it if the rod or bearing breaks up it will be a big big regardless of who does it but start by pulling the engine out of the frame and take a look at what you think you can do you maY SURPRISE YOURSELF just take your time good luck

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the advice guys.

Definetly gave me food for thought.

He said the oil was clean,but it knocks.Not terribly bad,but its there

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I dont know the quality of your mechanic and I hate to give you false hope but if your CRF engine will knock if the engine RPMs drop too low as compression release engages.

When you run the engine, can you hear the engine knocking? You said it has no metal in the oil in in the filter. I would say take the cylinder head off and cylinder and inspect the rod for up and down movement. If there is no up and down movement of the rod on the crank then most likely your crank is ok. There will be some side to side play.

Personally, as a mechanic, I would never tell a customer that there crank is going out but they still have some time to run it. The crank is going out, I would give an estimate to replace the crank. Repair it now, and you are spending a few hundred dollars. Wait till something takes itself apart, and you are scraping the bike.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It really may be nothing more then the compression release needing adjustment.

My 450x knocks a lot when it's lugged. It's an '09 though and the compression release is automatic based on RPM's. On your's, it's a manual adjustment (you have like an '05 right?).

You might also for piece of mind want to pick up a mechanics stethoscope from a place like Harbor Freight. It has a probe where you can touch the motor at various points and listen for noise. Between touching it to the valve cover, cylinder, and crank case down low in the front, it should give you an idea of where the noise is coming from.

And as condor suggested, it might also be worth pulling the head and cylinder just to see where things are at. If nothing's wrong, it's just going to cost you time and some gaskets.

Jim.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am thinking more and more that it is the compression release. Can you post a video with sound so maybe we could hear it?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Personally, as a mechanic, I would never tell a customer that there crank is going out but they still have some time to run it. The crank is going out, I would give an estimate to replace the crank. Repair it now, and you are spending a few hundred dollars. Wait till something takes itself apart, and you are scraping the bike.

I agree completely. I would never tell a customer that such and such part is going out, but it is OK to ride it for a while like that. Next ride, it goes bang, then you have a pissed customer. There is no crystal ball on cranks. If you see signs that it is going out (knocking, metal etc..) it usually dies very quickly after that.

Yeah I cant even hear it when I'm over idle.Its worse at idle.

You said a 9 year old bike, so I am taking it is a 2004 or 2005 (no differences). The decompressor is an automatic (based on RPM) and does clatter at idle. Also, if you are riding when hearing it, these bikes get a loud drive chain slap when you are down in the very low RPM's. You saying that it goes away over idle makes me think it is just the decomp you are hearing. If you want I can take a video of mine idling for you to hear.

One last thing that would help us out a lot. Don't call and argue with him, but ask the mechanic what he saw, heard, or measured that let him to tell you that you needed an engine. If he based it just on sound, he may be wrong. If he changed the oil and saw metal, he was right that you need a crank, but was wrong in telling you that you had many hours left in it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok I'll try to get a vid up

I went on a ride today w/ another member,he listened to it after we rode and it was warm.He thought it could possibly be piston/rings and a valve thing.

He works on his bike and has done the CCC mods and all mechanical stuff,topend,and a few other mods that needs done periodicly or to make it run better,so I may have him check it out as soon as I get some $$$.He also said if it was his bike he would fix it now.The more I ride it the more risk I take of really doing some engine damage.

But how I'm taking this is you pretty much have to get into the engine to find exactly whats wrong.

I'll tell you one thing it sounds better than this bike,but it could be the crappy quality of the vid.

THIS NOT MY BIKE and I'm not a mechanic,so if this is a members bike tell me and I'll remove the vid

Thanks again for all the input.

I seriously think the guy I bought it from didn't maintain it very well and that's why the engine is in the condition it is.The brake fluid smelled so freakin bad,it was like thee worst bad/old gas type of smell I've ever smelled coming out of a bike.And I've smelled 20yr old fluids out of rusty bikes that have sat outside for years.

Pretty clean for an '04,but I couldn't see inside the engine,the most important part.

Live and learn,if I can get it fixed within a budget,I'll still be into it less than I see a lot of '04s listed for.

Edited by Bonefrost

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes his assessment for needing a crank was purely from the sound.

Forgot to say,when I went riding I had the dude(not who fixed my starter) I was w/ listen to and ride my bike(he has an '05,well maintained).

The knock is still there at higher RPMs and speed,so don't know if its the decompressor.

I cant hear the knock at higher RPMs cuz of the engine noise.

And it does have some chain slap,its not that.But that did kinda freak me out at first.

Bike ran good(to me),I just don't want to have the engine take itself apart.Theres definetly something up w/ it.

AND I need some seat time,its been 20yrs since I rode anything but a cheap china pitbike.So I have nothing to compare it to.

25-30mi. kicked my butt and it was pretty easy riding,nothing too technical,didnt stall or fall tho.Need to start xtraining.I think the heat did me in worse than anything and it wasn't that hot out,had to take off my body armor and elbow pads.And I was wearing Fox riding shorts w/ well ventallated knee/shin gaurds.Heat exhaustion.

Had plenty of water so I wasn't dehydrated,but I had to take a shade break for about 10-15mins 20mi into the ride.Felt like I was gonna puke and passout.

I'll quit beating this thread to death,I'll post after I have it looked at and find out just whats wrong.

Thanks again for all the input,it really opened my eyes about this bike.

Edited by Bonefrost

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

These bikes do tend to be a bit noisy at idle. Between the single cam with a rocker arm, the decompression mechanism, and the carb slide rattling at idle, they make some racket. Here's two vids that I was just playing with for another post.

First is with a camera and the bike was in a carport. At idle it sounds like it's falling apart. It has sounded like that from day 1. Valve clearances are spot on and crank is still good.

Second this is what it sounds like on the trail, no unusual motor noises at all. Enjoy the wonderful west TX scenery, lol.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

These bikes do tend to be a bit noisy at idle. Between the single cam with a rocker arm, the decompression mechanism, and the carb slide rattling at idle, they make some racket. Here's two vids that I was just playing with for another post.

First is with a camera and the bike was in a carport. At idle it sounds like it's falling apart. It has sounded like that from day 1. Valve clearances are spot on and crank is still good.

Second this is what it sounds like on the trail, no unusual motor noises at all. Enjoy the wonderful west TX scenery, lol.

Your videos did not post

Edited by condor74

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Decided to not fix the bike.Too many variables involved,been told everything from crank,top end,valves and the compression release(its not that).

Whenever I ask a mechanic(Ive asked more than one) they ask me if a 9yr old bike is worth it.Personally no.

Even when I ask worst case scenerio whats it gonna cost me,I cant get a straight answer.They all tell me the engine has to come apart,I just want to know how much its gonna be if it needs everything.

The main reason is,I;m on a budget and theres a big difference if it needs a top end or everything,and I dont want to have it all torn apart to find out its gonna be $1000+.Then I have a non-running bike and a box of parts.

Atleast its easier to sell a running bike,wether it needs work or not.

One more kinda off-topic,we're headed for summer,in AZ its gotta already be over 100% in the sun,so even if I fix it I'd only have a couple weeks left to ride.

I'm just bummin out,I bought this bike in good faith and it ended up needing work that the seller told me he just had done 10hrs ago.I've received 2 checks from the injuns(I'm Sioux) since I bought the bike,if I would have waited I could have had a nice $3500-4000 to shop for a bike that didnt need work.

shoulda woulda coulda :banghead:

Edited by Bonefrost

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

if the bike is clean in all other departments i.e suspension brakes frames not bent all the bearings and bushes are good use the winter and do the the lot i know its a money thing but even if you buy a gasket set at least you can put it all back together even if you cant find a fault i would persevere as these sort of bikes need to be refreshed as a matter of course so eventually you would have to do it...but to ride it knowing there is a problem would just be crazy... good bikes if you sort it or sell it good luck

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

if the bike is clean in all other departments i.e suspension brakes frames not bent all the bearings and bushes are good use the winter and do the the lot i know its a money thing but even if you buy a gasket set at least you can put it all back together even if you cant find a fault i would persevere as these sort of bikes need to be refreshed as a matter of course so eventually you would have to do it...but to ride it knowing there is a problem would just be crazy... good bikes if you sort it or sell it good luck

I love the bike,its straight and relatively clean for an '04.

I have zero mechanical experience,radio control nitro trucks are the only thing I've done everything on,but those engines have nothing to them.I worked on my pit bike,but that was all bolt-on crap.My grandfather and me did a few 2strokes years ago,I helped a bit,but he would take over when I got in a bind.Plus he was a mechanic for over 40yrs.

I dont want to tear into the engine w/o atleast someone to help.

Like I said,bike will be easier to sell if its complete and running,than a roller w/ the engine in parts.

I'm really afraid to even run it now.

Here in AZ we "summerize" as the summer get to be 115%+,winter is riding season,beautiful 75% days mid winter.

Actually you can ride year round,just gotta be geared up and ready to go at day break.Then you can get a 3-4hr ride in before collapsing from the heat!

Thanks for the advice

Edited by Bonefrost

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×