New DS switch - no spark

Hoping someone has an idea of what I can try next.

My old Baja Designs switch has been on the fritz, so I finally ditched it for Tusk switch from RMATV (similar to the new Baja Designs switch). BD says you need to also buy an additional wiring harness (for $$$$$) to upgrade to their new switch. I have a hard time believing this can't be done easily without the new harness, so I opted for finding my own 'logical' solution.

The plan was to simply match up the wires (functions) from the old switch to the new switch. I have instructions/diagrams for both.

Big mistake right out of the gate: did not start the bike up this spring before snipping the old switch. So, I have no idea if something happened over the winter while sitting (garage at the cottage). Except for an intermittent lighting problem caused by the old switch, t was running perfectly when put away.

Wiring: the old switch had 11 wires, the new switch has 8. Two of the extra wires are for the kill switch. By simply connecting these together temporarily, that should close the circuit and allow starting/running. Continuity tests back up my assumption. The third wire is "Accessory Power Out". On the old switch, this worked in the two "On" settings, and had no power on the "Off" setting. The new switch doesn't have an off setting, so I assume that can be wired to the main power input to the switch?

I unsuccessfully tried starting it many times. No luck. Pulled out the spark plug and checked for a spark - none. Re-gapped and also tried a new plug with the same results. Re-checked the wire matching MANY times to ensure it was correct. Have checked continuity in all switch wires. Have tried disconnecting the extra accessory wire with no luck.

There is a few volts of power coming to the main power input to the switch from the small battery pack. It hasn't been re-charged, but I assume shouldn't need any power to get spark, as that will be coming from the stator. It just needs continuity. Please correct me if this assumption is wrong.

Any ideas on the next step or input on any of the above wiring choices? I've been working on this for two days, and getting frustrated :banghead:

My apologies if I do not understand your post................I would suggest that you disconnect the kill switch wires. I am not familiar with the intricacies of the dual sport switches, but the stock kill switch grounds out the ignition spark when pushed in. So I would guess that your old switch connected those two wires to kill the bike instead of disconnecting them?

Figure out the proper wiring for the kill switch wires, then.......

you have to at least drain the carb float bowl of the old gas that's been sitting in there all winter. There's no way it's going to start with that crap in there. You most likely also need to at least pull the fuel screw and clean / blow out that passage with some carb cleaner. Make sure you account for all parts, screw, spring, washer, o-ring in that order. Check the condition of the o-ring. It would be a good idea to pull the float bowl and remove and clean the jets too.

I sure do not want to argue with Trailryder42 as he provides valuable help daily. But I would not touch the fuel system until I could prove a good spark and the bike still did not start.

While it is certainly not recommended, I recently pulled out 2/ XR4s that had been put away wet and not run since August and they both started right up. One with stock carb, one with Mikuni TM36.

Thanks for the help everyone. Confirmed that it was the kill leads!!! I thought I had checked voltage with them connected and not connected. Must have been testing other wires. Should have had a physical checklist.

Retested and confirmed that there was only voltage to the main switch wire when the kill switch leads were NOT connected. Kicked over again with the spark plug out and voila!

My winter storage system involves emptying the float bowl, adding fuel stabilizer, then re-filling the float bowl, In the spring I empty out the bowl again, and re-fill. It's worked for the past two winters without issue. I'll wait until it gets a bit warmer out before firing it up for real (still about 5C here), but confidence is high :)


That's the way to do it.

If you don't say tho, I'm going to assume otherwise.

My winter storage system involves emptying the float bowl, adding fuel stabilizer, then re-filling the float bowl, In the spring I empty out the bowl again, and re-fill. It's worked for the past two winters without issue.


No offense taken, I know you're just trying to help by covering all the bases :thumbsup:

It took a few more kicks than I'd care to admit, but it started. Still quite cold out, so I'm chalking it up to that. Purring on all cylinder now though. I'll post up the wiring mappings tomorrow for a reference in case anyone else is interested in doing the conversion. Also so I have an online copy for myself :D

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