New FC carb falling flat on its face.....SOLVED

So I installed all the suggested parts and it still falls on its face. The leak is blocked off now and it made no difference. If I open the throttle quick it dies.

What should I do or look at? Could it be that my pump is not working?

ON EDIT

It was either the pump plate or the diaghram. I replaced both and it started squirting. It still has a slight blurp when I sit idling for a few seconds and whack the throttle though. Its about 98% tuned now.

Edited by problemchild200

Too much fuel squirted in by the accelerator pump, flooding it. Used to be real common on 4strokes.

Roll the gas on gently and see if it still happens.

With the AP leakjet blocked it should not be sending too much fuel. You probably have a blocked nozzle or your diaphram is busted or something else causing a problem. I suspect you have no fuel squirt. Remove the carb and operate the carb 100% throttle, the squirt should be strong and last about 1 second. The squirt should not hit the slide.

Edited by D0T-C0M

If I am not mistaken, a blocked leak jet will make the maximum squirt volume.

If I am not mistaken, a blocked leak jet will make the maximum squirt volume.
yes but there is not enough volume in one squirt to make his engine fall flat. The XRL engine can take one WOT operation no problem. You only run into a problem with a blocked leak jet when you whack it from 0 throttle - WOT a couple times quickly. It certainly will not fall flat like the stock CV carb but will run rough Edited by D0T-C0M

With the AP leakjet blocked it should not be sending too much fuel. You probably have a blocked nozzle or your diaphram is busted or something else causing a problem. I suspect you have no fuel squirt. Remove the carb and operate the carb 100% throttle, the squirt should be strong and last about 1 second. The squirt should not hit the slide.

UGH!

I was afraid of that. The bike ran exactly the same after I removed the #35 leak and plugged it. No change! Well in for a penny.................I guess I will order the adjustable leak. Which brand is best and where do I buy it? Do I just replace the cover or the whole bowl?

How do you go about unplugging a squirter if its plugged?

Edited by problemchild200

Guitar string is good for unclogging a squirter. Eddy Siterneros (or however you spell it) is where I got that from, and it works.

I'm gonna have to look at mine too as my FCR has a slight bog also. Nothing serious but when your trying to get the front end up in a jiffy, you plow into whatever you were trying to avoid, followed by a strong surge.

Edited by bluffskier

UGH!

I was afraid of that. The bike ran exactly the same after I removed the #35 leak and plugged it. No change! Well in for a penny.................I guess I will order the adjustable leak. Which brand is best and where do I buy it? Do I just replace the cover or the whole bowl?

How do you go about unplugging a squirter if its plugged?

Well before spending money on the pump cover first get your bike working without it. The cover isn't going to help you unless you've fixed whatever problem you have now. First make sure that its blocked before you start sticky things inside it LOL. You don't need an adjustable leak jet at this point.

I use a R&D pump2 cover. If and when you do purchase one, make sure whatever cover you buy works for your carb. The Sudco and older OEM had leak jet check valves installed in the float bowl of the carb whereas the newer FCR-MX OEM carbs have the check valve inside the AP cover. Make sure whatever adjustable leak jet you buy has the leakjet check valve also.

Edited by D0T-C0M

Well before spending money on the pump cover first get your bike working without it. The cover isn't going to help you unless you've fixed whatever problem you have now. First make sure that its blocked before you start sticky things inside it LOL. You don't need an adjustable leak jet at this point.

I use a R&D pump2 cover. If and when you do purchase one, make sure whatever cover you buy works for your carb. The Sudco and older OEM had leak jet check valves installed in the float bowl of the carb whereas the newer FCR-MX OEM carbs have the check valve inside the AP cover. Make sure whatever adjustable leak jet you buy has the leakjet check valve also.

Fixed by replacing the pump plate and rubber diaghram.

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