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stator failure #4 or 5, i forget

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I have got to be doing something wrong, failure of stator number 4 or 5 in 3 years, today.

oil changed every 1000 miles, free power mod, usually very reliable otherwise.

I'm fixing this, selling, and looking for an xr600.

this is in no way a slam of the drz, its a great machine I'm just done with stator failures.

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What are the failure mechanisms? Just getting too hot and burning up? OEM or aftermarket?

i've had 2 OEM, 3-4 ricky stator. all are -not- higher output models.

i'm not sure what you mean by failure mechanisms. they quit charging the battery, i test, usually it's a short to ground.

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You've got to be doing something wrong as your the only one suffering with that many bum stators.

i'm all ears as to what it is:

oil/filter changed every 1000 miles (that's 22+ oil changes so far)

original clutch (hard to believe, but true)

i've seen the light (over temp) come on once in 16000 miles. yes, it works.

radiator fan works

coolant is clean and changed twice a year

never popped a fuse, headlight bulb, turn signal bulb, brake light, or had any electrical connections get warm. free power mod completed.

again, i'm all ears.

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Can you link to any threads which document any of your previous failed stators?

where you ride, what temp is it normally, do you do sustained high revs for long periods?

what oil type/brand do you use.

Do you ride with your head light on?

Edited by DrzDick

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Do you ride with your head light on?

Is it a bad idea to ride with it off? I made a blackout switch for trail riding meaning no lights at all.

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Have you changed the flywheel to an aftermarket one ?

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Is it a bad idea to ride with it off? I made a blackout switch for trail riding meaning no lights at all.

I think so.... but not always..

I don't have my headlight on while trail riding but I'm generally at low revs picking my line through..., unless it's a wide open forest track. :ride::jawdrop:

The higher your revs the more power your making from your stator. The more unused power you have the more the R/R shorts this power back to the stator to stop the voltage from harming your bikes electrics. The stator is both the generator and resistive load. Once the power demand of the bike & battery is met all spare power is dumped back into the stator which turns it into heat in the stator windings and finally is absorbed by the engine oil (which is already very hot).

If your at low revs then turning off your headlight will ensure your battery is topped up, if your at high revs (crusing on the highway) then running your headlight will ensure that there is 55 watts of heat coming from your head light and not heating your stator.

Edited by DrzDick
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You've got to be doing something wrong as your the only one suffering with that many bum stators.

No, I've had five stators as well. three OEM, one RM Stator and one Ricky Stator. All but the first were installed using the guidelines found here. I use Silkolene Ester based synthetic as recomended by Eddie, oil changes rarely exceed 1K, free power mod, headlight working, in-line volt meter stays between 13.8-14.5 volts (the lower reading when my heated grips are on).

Edited by Drz Charlie
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No, I've had five stators as well. three OEM, one RM Stator and one Ricky Stator. All but the first were installed using the guidelines found here. I use Silkolene Ester based synthetic as recomended by Eddie, oil changes rarely exceed 1K, free power mod.

Okay...

Can you link to any threads which document any of your previous failed stators?

where you ride, what temp is it normally, do you do sustained high revs for long periods?

what oil type/brand do you use.

Do you ride with your head light on?

There must be a common failure pattern linked to either use or maintenence (or other reasons) because these bikes are not known the eat stators.

Typcally an OEM stator should last approx 15-20K miles?

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Can you link to any threads which document any of your previous failed stators?

where you ride, what temp is it normally, do you do sustained high revs for long periods?

what oil type/brand do you use.

Do you ride with your head light on?

i'll have to link to the other threads later... just a quick response for now.

40f - 100f depending on the season. i usually turn the bike off instead of idling in a mud pit, and if the fan is on, allow the fan to run (key off) until it shuts off on it's own.

sustained high revs, i don't have a tachometer, but there are times it sees highway speeds (21/18" wheels with 15/44 gearing) and occasional interstate speeds. i doubt the oil gets any hotter than a single track bashing.

oil, rotella, or delo, whichever is on the shelf

head light on all the time except single track (low, slow speeds).

i never have any trouble with clatter or detonation (that i can hear) and the radiator has boiled over once in the last 3 years, when the fan was crushed.

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Only common link I see so far is the free power mod. I've never done it myself but was wondering if there is a way of doing it wrong that would cause this.

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Only common link I see so far is the free power mod. I've never done it myself but was wondering if there is a way of doing it wrong that would cause this.

i would think the main fuse would blow if anything was done poorly, or the wire would get HOT fiarly quickly.

it's just deleting the crap suzuki connector.

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Have you changed the flywheel to an aftermarket one ?

no, the stock flywheel does what it's supposed to just fine. besides, there were all those people having trouble with aftermarket wheels i skipped it. stock (usually) is more reliable. usually.

usually. ;-)

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Can you link to any threads which document any of your previous failed stators?

where you ride, what temp is it normally, do you do sustained high revs for long periods?

what oil type/brand do you use.

Do you ride with your head light on?

some of my rant threads while changing other stators:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/903471-another-damned-stator/

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/918152-2004-drz400-will-not-start/page__st__40 (this one is really long, but i ringed the piston and took beautiful pictures)

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/988000-ricky-stator-vs-ebay-stator/

i believe this makes stator number 4 in the bike, and 5 being re-wound at a local shop as i type this.

so, we're on #5 when i install it wednesday. 22,500ish miles on the bike.

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Just throwing this out there... Maybe something is mis-machined where the stator is held and it is not positioned correctly, or something odd about the regulator...

Have you ever had to replace the regulator?

I would be a little (actually a LOT) frustrated if I had replaced the stator that many times. Something is very wrong.

( I'm still on my original stator and I keep my fingers crossed that it continues to keep doing it's job. I run 2 - 35W HID's all the time and heated grips during the winter. Not to try and jinx myself, but by Friday my bike shjould hit 70K miles...)

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I suppose it's possible that it is mechanical stress - that was mentioned before as a possible cause.

I wonder if the stator is moved over slightly whether it could have some kind of megnetic imbalance that give rise to small vibrations within the windings and lead to shortened life...

It could account for how some seemingly identicle bikes can suffer from failed stators while others don't.

The electrical system should not be able to harm the stator. The worst thing a short could do would be to short out the stator, which is normal anyway but a R/R will never short a stator out for long - it just clips it.

Maybe a bad R/R can short the stator for too long, or somehow also short the battery out through the stator as well - a freak condition that shouldn't happen (and I'm not sure if it's possible).

ohgood & Drz Charlie - have you changed your R/R's since your bikes started eating stators?

The first thing a stator connect to is the R/R so I think after a couple of early stator replacements I'd start to wonder if the R/R could be causing it.... but how.. I have to hit the sack now but I will ponder this..... :thinking:

Edited by DrzDick

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ohgood - My questions:

1) Do you have a case protector glued to the outside of the stator cover?

2) Have you ever talked to Ricky Stator about trouble shooting or repair or replacement?

3) As DrzDick points out, the electrical system is designed for lights on all the time to use the power generated. Why turn the headlight off?

Stators fail from heat. Questions 1 and 3 contribute to heat. My theory is stators cool primarily from conduction to the case not by oil.

DRZ Charlie - How are you doing with your current stator? Is this one a winner?

DrzDick - Is it possible the stock flywheel has stronger than normal magnets? Increasing the output?

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