clutch issue

Used bikes ftw! Another problem with my 06. When I test drove the bike i had no issue, but it has had it since the first day I took it home. The clutch is dragging big time, I really have to give it gas when putting it in gear otherwise itll just lunge and stall. My idle is set fine. This is of course after letting the bike warm up good, ive tried tipping the bike to the clutch side and working the clutch in and out no difference. I've also done a few down the road working the clutch and nothing changes when I slow down and try to stop in first with the clutch in. The first thing I did was change the oil, and adjust free play nothing changed. I then drained the oil again took the clutch totally apart and inspected everything. The basket is not grooved at all, both the steel plates and friction plates look new, no warpage, thickness well within limits. I took the basket off everything is there and in order. I cleaned the plates and soaked them in new oil before putting everything back together, with the clutch cover off pulling the clutch lever, the pressure plate moves a significant amount withing limits and returns to rest smoothly no binding, the only thing I noticed is with the plates off is that they all seem to suction together from the oil. I'm assuming this is normal I would think under the load of me on the bike there would be no way the "suction" would spin the drive. i'm using the moblie 1 4t 10w-40 synthetic oil. Any help appreciated, kind of sucks having issues right off jump street but I know that comes with buying a used bike. I'm new to working on bikes, but I'm pretty mechanically inclined and always do my research but this one has me stumped!

Try a non energy conserving oil! Mobil 1 full synthetic may be energy conserving and will cause problems !

Its not the energy conserving stuff, its the motorcyle 4t. Im thinking my problem does lie within the plates. When i have the whole pile out they stick together like glue, you have to literally peel each 1 apart. I read somewhere about taking 800 grit sand paper and buffing them a bit to remove the glaze anyone have any input on that?

what kind of bike is it?

06 kx250f

Figure I'd move this to the general forum because the clutch in general isn't bike specific. The clutch is dragging big time, I really have to give it gas when putting it in gear otherwise itll just lunge and stall. My idle is set fine. This is of course after letting the bike warm up good, ive tried tipping the bike to the clutch side and working the clutch in and out no difference. I've also done a few down the road working the clutch and nothing changes when I slow down and try to stop in first with the clutch in. The first thing I did was change the oil, and adjust free play nothing changed. I then drained the oil again took the clutch totally apart and inspected everything. The basket is not grooved at all, both the steel plates and friction plates look new, no warpage, thickness well within limits. I took the basket off everything is there and in order. I cleaned the plates and soaked them in new oil before putting everything back together, with the clutch cover off pulling the clutch lever, the pressure plate moves out and returns to rest smoothly no binding, the only thing I noticed is with the plates off is that they all seem to stick together, none of them were stuck to hard, but I did have to peel them apart. i'm using the moblie 1 4t 10w-40 synthetic oil. Any help appreciated, kind of sucks having issues right off jump street but I know that comes with buying a used bike. I'm new to working on bikes, but I'm pretty mechanically inclined and always do my research but this one has me stumped! I've done alot of searching around and the only thing i've come up with that might help me at this point is taking some 800 grit sand paper to the plates to remove the glaze.

Well it sounds like you need the plates to slip not Hook up better…deglazing the plates will get it to hook up better…might have to put new fibers in it and switch oil…I am not familiar with the mob 1 syn so not sure about properties…I have always used the Lucas oil high perf semi syn 10-40 (semi syn since I change it every 5 hrs and it keeps cost a bit lower is all)

But the Lucas states on bottle specifically engineered for wet clutch and high rpms. Mobil 1 always makes me think of how that oil is designed to stick to all metal parts and form a coating which they refer to as a protective barrier which is good for everything in the motor except the clutch in my opinion…onto questions to ponder…do you have the correct washer between the basket and hub? its 2mm thick, i have seen them replaced by thinner washers by peeps not knowing it matters…Correct washer between needle bearing and pressure plate? …Finally is the check ball (5/16") installed between pushrod & clutch pressure plate pusher (holder)

Hey thanks alot for the input, Im going to pick up some new oil tomorrow maybe ill grab some of the lucas oil. Thats what has me stumped most people's problems are with the clutch slipping mine is the opposite, like a super clutch! lol Not good either though, never though to check washer thicknesses, I just checked to make sure they were all there. The basket does have a bit of play which the book says nothing about. The ball seems to fit perfectectly in the outer tube, not snug but not loose. When i pull the clutch lever in the pressure plate moves out about an 1/8 of an inch i'd say maybe a little more, which I think would be plenty room for all the plates to seperate from one another. I did try the sanding with no change. All I can hope is that I had some goofy oil that didn't want to take to my clutch, i'll update when I find out more.

Had a similar problem...replaced clutch cable, must have been stretching to much, just a suggestion, and 25$ hopefully it would be a cheap fix

Well the problem is fixed but not 100% solved. I was going to get a new needle bearing and sleeve but it was 40$ just for them two parts and I wasn't to sure that was the problem, so I looked around ebay and found a full clutch assembly minus the inner hub but including all hardware and bearing/sleeve. It looked in good condition and said working order so I made an offer of 60$ and got it. Got it today, compared piece by piece and mine actually looked to be in a bit better shape, but everything on the new/used one was well within specs so I decided to throw the whole works in. Worked as advertised! So i'm not sure what piece was the culprit but when I start having issues with this one i'll have some spare parts to swap in now. thanks for the help

so you installed a different set of steels and fibers as well?

New used ones lol. It prolly was the plates but the ones that were in there were literally brand new, no warpage, and I calipered out every single one and they measured to what to near brand new measure. The new/used ones I put in now were in the middle range of specs, but they work. Ill swap in my old plates when these wear and that will eventually tell me.

I ran into an issue yesterday on a completely different machine (300ex). I was doing a motor inspection and timing chain replacement, got to assembling the clutch and noticed two washers between to basket and inner hub. No big deal, removed one of them and continued on. What I found was once I tightened the center nut the basket and hub were nearly locked together. I check parts, dis-assembled and re-assembled about 5 times until I noticed something. The center gear that is pressed into the basket had somehow walked out/away from the basket a mere 1/16 of an inch. This was enough to induce all of the drag. As a test I pressed the gear back into the basket and re-assembled. She spun with absolutely no friction.

I have been fighting clutch drag on my 03 smoker and have replaced nearly everything excluding the basket, inner hub, and pressure plate. I haven't had a chance to look at mine to see if its a similar issue, but seeing how your old parts are laying on your bench have a look at the basket to see if that may have been the issue.

Just went and took a look for you, it appears to be pressed as tight as it can be however I didn't closely compare that to the working basket I got. Im still using the same inner hub so my problem had to have lied in the basket or fibers, or possibly needle bearing sleeve but like I said the basket still seemed to have some play with the new ones, Im leaning towards an issue with the basket because my fibers were in such great shape, unless when I sanded them it didn't remove the glaze, hard to say, I think next time I do an oil change i'll swap my old fibers in and see what happens just so I know!

Fair enough. Keep us posted. :ride:

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