Finally FC carb up & running 98%, need some small help + WOW!

WOW!

It feels like I took 100lbs off the bike. Installing this carb is like comparing riding double to riding single, that is how this new pumper carb makes the bike feel, I am amazed! Driving through parking lots is easy now as the bike doesnt fall on its face everytime I slightly turn the throttle. The old carb was terrible and I am so glad I upgraded. Anyone want to use my cv carb for target practice?

A few minor issues remaining....

How do you tune the gas screw on the bottom of the float bowl? Is there a "so many turns out" setting with the rejetted pumper?

I have the larger dial screw for the mixture on the bottom and its set to 1.5 turns out.

My throttle cables bind when I turn the bars all the way to the right but not left. Any idea whats causing this?

I have an ever so slight bog, after the bikes idles for a few seconds and when I whack the throttle. It wont manifest the issue if I whack it time after time or real close to each other only after it idles for for a few seconds. Ideas?

Thanks again for all the help guys.......

Edited by problemchild200

Anyone know why Im getting a small bog right at the start of the throttle after it idles for a second?

anyone?

pilot circuit is probably not properly set correctly. Below is a copy of EddieS's sticky post in the jetting section regarding how to properly set your pilot circuit.

with the bike warm and idleing turn the fuel screw in till the idle drops/misses.then go back out till the idle peaks/smooths.

this should happen between 1 and 2.5 turns on a fcr carb and 1 and 3 turns on a cv.

if you end up at less than 1 turn you need a smaller pilot jet.more than 2.5 (or 3 turns on a cv) you need a bigger pilot jet.

choose the appropriate size and retest.

Edited by D0T-C0M

pilot circuit is probably not properly set correctly. Below is a copy of EddieS's sticky post in the jetting section regarding how to properly set your pilot circuit.

OK thanks...

I just got back from doing this, bike was hot. I did exactly what you said and it is set now. I figured out exactly what the bike is doing wrong.

Symptom= The first 1/8th turn (whacking only 1/8th real quick) makes the bike stumble real bad and fall on its face. After the 1/8th it comes up in rpms real quick.

Is the AP pump timing set correctly? Is the squirt hitting the slide? Is it coming out at all from 0 to 1/8 throttle?

Is the AP pump timing set correctly? Is the squirt hitting the slide? Is it coming out at all from 0 to 1/8 throttle?

Well......

After I replaced the pump disc and plate along with the spring I filled the carb with fuel and gave it about 25 whacks open. Some were all the way and some were half way. None of the squirts hit the slide and it squirted about 3+ feet. I never actually just twisted it 1/8th as it appeared to be working great. I did do it about 1/4 and it seemed to me to be squirting as soon as it moved but I wasnt specifically looking for an 1/8th issue.

PLEASE dont make me pull that darned carb off again. Its tighter than a sardine in a can and a bitch to remove. Anything else I can look at?

Oh and this might help........

IT REFUSES TO IDLE WHEN COLD. I have to keep pumping the carb and/or set the black switch out to make it idle.

Edited by problemchild200

I have mine on fast idle (half choke) for about a minute or two when cold. Yeah well if you don't want to check your AP pump then you'll have to live with it. You can try taking the black cover off to see the linkage operate. At least if the AP rod moves at 0-1/8 throttle then you can at least confirm that. The only other thing I can think of is your float height is not high enough but it still requires you remove the carb. Sorry its the joys of modding LOL

I have mine on fast idle (half choke) for about a minute or two when cold. Yeah well if you don't want to check your AP pump then you'll have to live with it. You can try taking the black cover off to see the linkage operate. At least if the AP rod moves at 0-1/8 throttle then you can at least confirm that. The only other thing I can think of is your float height is not high enough but it still requires you remove the carb. Sorry its the joys of modding LOL

Well let me see if I can just pull the air cleaner boot off and look inside and watch with a flashlight. I think there is enough room.

What am I looking for? As soon as the slide moves it needs to squirt?

And if its not squirting as soon as movement occurs I need to time the squirt?

Also I installed #75 jet for choking but the bikes refuses to start with choke. I have to twist throttle to get it started and baby it along with black switch and keep pumping throttle. Its kinda of a pain in the tail pipe.

Is there a way I can measure float bowl fluids by draining it out the tube?

Anything else I can look at?

Edited by problemchild200

First take the black cover off the side of the carb and twist the throttle from 0-1/8 and look to see if the AP rod moves and after that is confirmed check to see if the squirt comes out.

First take the black cover off the side of the carb and twist the throttle from 0-1/8 and look to see if the AP rod moves and after that is confirmed check to see if the squirt comes out.

Rodger that........

I will check it in a few mins, brb........

Oh and I have a stock pipe and air cleaner if that matters.

Thanks for the help.....

Edited by problemchild200

I've been following so many people's projects that I assumed you had an after market pipe. Did you at least desnorkle the airbox? You can try removing your exhaust baffle. That will let it breathe better.

Ok mystery diagnosed but not fixed.

I took off black plate, rod was moving as throttle moved.

I decided to remove air cleaner boot., get a flashlight and watch squirt.

It squirted instantly as soon as slide moved most of the time. By this I mean if you moved at a normal rate it squirted but if you moved very slow it did NOT squirt.

So I thought &%$#@!. I started the bike and twisted the gas a few times. It not only did NOT squirt at 1/8th but it was intermittent the rest of the 80%. It squirted, it dribbled, it didnt squirt at all.

It almost looks like I have a vac leak and its sucking the the squirt back in or who knows. Its not right thats all I know.

One last thing, the stupid tiny O ring got lost for the mixture screw and I replaced it with another that is a tiny bit smaller (only one I could find that fit) so it might be an issue???

Oh and which way does the diaphragm go? I might have it upside down?

My opinion is the pump is not right and it wasnt the same as the one I took off even though I looked up the part number for 08 model carb.

What now?

Which pump is beter RD or boyeson 3?

This is 2 carbs in a row from FLEA-bay that are junk. Im pissed !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Edited by problemchild200

First did you clean carb? I mean take it complely apart put all parts in carb cleaner NOT the crap you buy at parts store. Its best to take it to someone and let them go through it. These carbs are complex and can be pain in ass People take the carbs off bikes and small amount fuel thats left in them gums up can plug up pump pilot etc. enthanol in fuel dont help. Correct way to set fuel screw is warm up bike completey then turn fuel screw till bike idles the highest then rest idle should be between 1.5 to 2.5. Now to do this you need a flex jet its a fuel screw that has cable on it. you need to adjust the squrit that is done with leak jet in float bowl bigger jet less squirt or get adj leak jet the XRs like less squirt than CRF. These carbs are complex thats the price we pay they are finckey bastards

Is your leakjet fully blocked or do you have a #35?

One other thing that could affect you is float height.

Edited by D0T-C0M

Is your leakjet fully blocked or do you have a #35?

One other thing that could affect you is float height.

I blocked it off. How do I set or test float height?

Which way does the rubber diaghram go? I might have it upside down?

Would the float height cause the squirt to shut off, flutter and dribble when the bike starts? It happens instantly after starting.

Which pump is better RD or quickshot 3?

Whats the name of the flex mixture screw?

Edited by problemchild200

First unblock leak jet you have WAY to much squirt do you know how the leak jet works? and the fuel screw is a Flex Jet thats the name of it

Actually blocking the leak jet is what most people do.

Float height will affect the the pilot circuit and AP inlet if its off considerably. I'm away from home so I don't have the pictures to show you how to adjust/check float height. Google it or maybe someone can fill in the blanks till I get home LOL

Edited by D0T-C0M

Update,

I bought carb cleaner spray. All carb cleaners are now banned in the peoples republik of kalifornia as not GREEN liquids.

I ordered the Boyeson Quick shot 3

I bought the flex-jet mixture screw

When the parts arrive I will clean it and install the new pump.

Do any of you know which way the dighram sits? It might be upside down as I have no idea which way it goes?

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