99 CR125 engine in an 02 Frame
So I started my bike today and a lot of smoke came out from where the air boots clamp on the carb (both sides) where the air boot meets the air box, and where the pipe meets the cylinder. I can also hear a leak but I am not sure from where. It also bogs. What could this be??! I started it yesterday and it ran fine, no leaks, no smoking, bike revved up good and everything.
i should point out that I did take the carb off, disconnected the air boot from the air box. I put some grease on the air boot so it would seal against the air box when I put it back together, it was a pain in the a$$ installing the carb but I made sure that the air boots clamp all around the carburetor. After I was done I started it and it was completely fine, no issues.
well it turns out that I still had the exhaust plug....(Facepalm) should I be concerned that the air found a way out??? If air can find a way out then air with dust can find a way in. Also, could this mean bad reed valves?? It has the vforce reeds but the cage is grey with purple lettering (not the normal black cage with yellow lettering)
Hey so I have a Cr250r with a few mods
-Keihin PWK carb
I was wondering what race gas I should use, I am a weekend rider and I do not race or anything like that, I just want to use some race gas on my bike so it runs better. (Don't want to run straight up pump gas) I am looking to mix with 93 pump gas because running straight up race gas is too expensive for me. What gas would be good for me that is not too expensive. Thanks!
Hey guys, so I recently bought a 02 cr250r on Craigslist. The guy claims it has a new oem cylinder and piston with 30hrs and a new crank with 60hrs. The bike also has a PC pipe, vforce reeds, keihin pwk.
Now my question is are they so easy to start?! My last bike was a yz250f and it had quite a bit of resistance when going through the compression kick and I got used to it. When I went to start the cr250 I went through the compression kick out of habit and notice that the kick starter would drop under the wait of my leg and it was awkward for me as I was used to starting a 4t. The bike started first kick cold with choke on and after warming it up it still started first kick. Is it normal for the kick starter to drop under the weight of my leg or does it have low compression? Like I said it start first kick very easily. The guy had 50/50 race gas and 93 pump gas at 40:1 (don't know about the premix) in the tank but I will be running 93 pump gas with stabil at 40:1 with Maxima super M (can't afford race gas) when I need to refill. I will update when I start running my gas and see if it still starts the same. Thanks!
By Roman Krzyzanowski
I have a 2000 Cr125r and I’m in the middle of rebuilding it I just put a new crank and new bearings and all new gaskets so far. I haven’t made it to the top end honestly I’m kinda stuck at this point I &%$#@!ed up and didn’t take pictures while taking it apart mistake on my end because I can’t even find any pictures or anything on it now. I already put the cases back together I’m now on the shift brake pause side I was wondering if anyone could help me with a few pictures of that side of the motor if someone had some? Or send me a link of a diagram of how it’s supposed to be and look. this is the only part I’m stuck on it’s pretty tricky but after that i just got the top end I really appreciate any advice or any pictures y’all come up with or diagram EVERYTHING helps I’m kinda dead in the water at this point ..
I have a 2005 cr125 new to me. I had millennium tech replate cylinder and supply new piston. I replaced crank bearings and now it won't hit power ban. It feels like a 4 stroke bouncing off rev limiter. It is also putting a lot of black spooge out of exhaust i mean a lot. The plug is black. I cleaned carb and adjusted floats. I also repacked silencer. I noticed the carb leaking gas out overflow the other day. I suspect it is running really rich. I have a brand new pwk from Jd jetting I'm going to try out. I also did a leakdown test and it held. I also am not 100% sure the power valve is set up right. The manual doesn't go into great detail about this. But it seems like there is only one way to put it back together. I have the engine out I'm going to do another leakdown test and double check my power valve and put it back together with this pwk. Any other thoughts out there?