Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

stuck brake.

Recommended Posts

my brake is stuck, havent had time to dig into it yet, but my brake light is stuck on, the tire is stiff, and you can just tell its stuck, not rocket science, now, how do i unstick it properly? and make it not do this again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Front or Rear?

If it was me I'd take the caliper off, remove the pads and clean the pistons and surrounding areas.

Here's alittle how to thread:

http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=311889

Do not push the pistons the whole way out of the caliper, To fully clean the caliper you would want to push them out but I'm pretty sure you'd have to buy new seals if they come out [someone correct me If I'm wrong?]

If the light is stuck on, that is probably a dirty switch. On the rear the switch is behind the frame (follow the brake lever) and the front one is behind the lever (under the master cylinder). Either one could be sticking and causing the problem, Push them in and see if they push back out immediately (The front one usually makes a clicking noise, I'm not sure about the back switch).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

rear, noticed when i went to tighten chain that the tire was stiff,

Might even be something really simple, Take the caliper off and spin the wheel.. but it's probably in the caliper.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

it returns, i think, but i did notice that i didnt feel any pressure until the brake is pressed pretty far down.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

update: my brake is stuck on the rotor, if i push on the cover of the cylinder i can push the assembly towards the tire and the cylinder slowly retracts, then i pump the brakes a few times and the brake is locked up again :banghead:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Take out the long slider pin and see if that helps. DRC sells a stainless steel pin to replace the cheap one Suzuki uses. You need to figure out if its the piston that's sticking or one of the guide 3 pins.

Steve

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By Bignerd0100100
      Hey all, 
      I'm looking at buying a 2004 Suzuki DRZ400EK or at least I think it's an EK according to Vin lookup websites, but it does not appear to have a kickstarter. I was told the bike was owned by a motorcycle dealer and that it has a current green sticker, and a California license plate but has not been registered for the streets since 2011. I want this as a dual sport but am not clear if the fact that it already has a plate means I am good to register it or if maybe they took away the ability to register it after it was plated, California loves to do that kind of stuff. Since the bike was owned by a dealer I would think they were up on the latest regulations in California, but who knows. Can anyone add any insight as to what I should look for on the bike itself like the carburetor, model numbers etc? Or do I just try my luck at the DMV?
    • By smokey9lives
      Hi,
      I have a 2003 DRZ (actually a KLX400) and the head tube bearings are shot.  I ordered a new set to install but I'm wondering if anyone has any recommendations on other parts I should replace while I have the front disassembled.  I was thinking about new rubber fork protectors, but are there other things that wear out on the DRZ front ends that you can only get to when disassambled?
      I also broke off a replacement key that I got for the steering lock.  I must have been made of cheap pot-metal.  Should I just remove the whole lock mechanism?
      Any tips or tricks for getting the old bearings out and the new ones in would be welcome!
      Thanks!
    • By antonyp
      Hey Guys,
      I recently bought a 2003 DRZ400S and thought it would be a good idea to check the valves clearance etc . I timed the engine on TDC with the magneto mark aligned as per the manual but I find the cam timing slightly odd. The arrows pointing upward are on the 1st and 15th pin as they should but with the magneto timing mark aligned they are not perfectly straight. Same goes for the arrows that should be parallel to the cylinder head casing. Is this normal or should they be absolutely perfect ?
       

×