Is this stator done?

I have a guys DRZ 400 here, which is not charging. Voltage check at the battery with bike idling, and revved to +3500 confirms this. Meter reads 12v while running with a fully charged battery. Battery reads a slightly higher 12v with bike not running. I pulled the stator connector apart, and with key off, ohmed each wire to ground. Got no change on the meter. Check each wire to each other, and the meter goes blank, the same way as if you touch the meter leads to +&- on the battery. With the bike running I get about 10v from each wire at idle, and no increase with rpm. I say the stator is done, any confirmations on this? Thanks.

Check each wire to each other, and the meter goes blank, the same way as if you touch the meter leads to +&- on the battery. With the bike running I get about 10v from each wire at idle, and no increase with rpm. I say the stator is done, any confirmations on this? Thanks.

what meter do you have - is it digital?

Why is it going blank - sounds like your meter is faulty.

With the bike off you should be able to get 3 seperate ohm readings from testing each of the 3 stator wires to another - they should all read the same.

Go to FAQ and follow the complete electrical troubleshooting guide. Your meter sounds goofy or set incorrectly for function or range scale

The meter is digital, and is not goofy, and I already thought that, or that the battery was going dead. It's a digital. It zeros out just fine. When I test the regulator side of the plug, it tests fine. I did follow the test procedure in the faq

ok - I don't think your being clear enough about what your testing.

Copy the tests from the FAQ and report back the readings.

In fact just do the ohm test on the stator itself

"Check each wire to each other, and the meter goes blank, the same way as if you touch the meter leads to +&- on the battery."

That statement makes very little sense unless your meter is broken or on the wrong setting for the test.

If you had the meter on the same setting/range to check the wires as you did to test the battery you've probably just blown your meter.

Edited by DrzDick

Yea, it doesnt really sound like your following the steps in the FAQ. When checking the stator, make sure your checking the connector end that goes to the engine case and not to the R/R. When checking it's output, you should be on the DMM's AC setting and only touching a combination of two of the three stator wires at one time.

When checking the stator for open circuits or resistance, DMM on ohms setting. First check the resistance of each stator coil, again only touch two of the three stator wires at one time. Ensure they all read under 1 ohm. Now check each stator wire to ground ONLY, battery negative or frame or engine. Should read infinity, open circuit.

so I redid my test, and this time on the proper end of the plug! Test each yellow lead to ground, and my meter zeros. Test each yellow to each other, and the meter again goes to zero. Id say the stator is done

yep, shouldn't get a zero reading to ground. Check the stator wires where they come out of the engine casing or under the cable clip inside as one of them could have shorted there.

717 - What ohms scale are you using to test the coil resistance? What ohms scale are you using to test short to ground?

For coil resistance use a low scale. You are looking for around 1 ohm. For short to ground use a low scale and retest using a high scale, could be anything from 1 ohm or less to infinity (hopefully infinity)

it was set at 2000k

OK, you are on the 2,000,000 ohms scale. Follow above instructions. Test both the coil resistance and coil short to ground using the 200 ohms scale.

I got a new stator for the bike, and pulled the old one out. Definately done! One of the coils is badly burnt. While I was washing up the cover,I noticed a pretty good bump,and some cracks, right in the spot where the burnt coil was located. On the ouside of the case was a real nice stainless by the looks of it,cover which was glued over the JB welded dent and cracks obtained when the shifter was obviously punched into the case. I tried to nicely punch the dent back out, and save the case. Nope! The cracked and dented area broke right out in 4 pieces. The bike needs a new case now. Add another $200 to this bill...

I got a new stator for the bike, and pulled the old one out. Definately done! One of the coils is badly burnt. While I was washing up the cover,I noticed a pretty good bump,and some cracks, right in the spot where the burnt coil was located. On the ouside of the case was a real nice stainless by the looks of it,cover which was glued over the JB welded dent and cracks obtained when the shifter was obviously punched into the case. I tried to nicely punch the dent back out, and save the case. Nope! The cracked and dented area broke right out in 4 pieces. The bike needs a new case now. Add another $200 to this bill...

Should have known better than to try and hammer out a thin magnesium cover, i.e. very brittle.... You can order a cover for a '03 KLX400SR from Ron Ayers for much less and it's the same Suzuki part.

Or from Thumper Talk. 14031 COVER-GENERATOR

14031-S008 1 $136.91

Should have known better than to try and hammer out a thin magnesium cover, i.e. very brittle.... You can order a cover for a '03 KLX400SR from Ron Ayers for much less and it's the same Suzuki part.

It NEEDED to be done, no other choice. It was already damaged, and would have damaged another stator. Thanks for the Ron Ayers info

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