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Opinion on engine noise (Video)

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Looking for peoples opinion on the gargling/clanging/whirling noise that my engine makes. Its extremely audible and ear piercing when you’re next to the bike (helmet off). The noise can be heard at idle and while cruising along. It does not change with the rpms. I cannot tell if it’s from the clutch side or ignition side. I grabbed a friend’s stethoscope from work today, hopefully that will start to point me in the right direction. I have been told several things, needs bottom end, crank shaft nut has come loose, power valve gummed up, exhaust is loose. So I’m turning to the true experts on Thumper Talk to help me out. What do you think?

Clink here to listen to the bike ----->

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Hard to tell from the video, but I'll give my input. :D

How many hours on the bike? top end hours? bottom end hours? Does the noise change with the clutch in/out?

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Im not sure how many total hours are on the bike, I purchased it used. It clearly has over 100hrs on it based on the case ware. The top end has about 10-20 hours on it. I have no clue on the bottom end... The noise does not change with the clutch in or out.

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I had to replace the bottom end on my 08 200 a few months ago. If you have the time you can pull the top end off and check the rod play to see of the lower rod bearings have gone out.

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I think tonight I will start inspecting things one at a time. Are there any issues with loud water pumps? Any suggestions would be greatly appriciated. Heres my check list so far in order....

  1. Remove Skid Plate and Pipe Guard for possible noise
  2. Check pipe to make sure its not causing the noise
  3. Use stethoscope to determin noise from top, bottom, brake, or shifter side
  4. remove ignition cover scope for possible main bearing
  5. remove clutch cover check to see if crank nut came loose
  6. remove jug inspect piston, jug, powervalve, and rod play
  7. Buy new bottom and top end....

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Started pulling things apart tonight, think I figured it out. Well it wasnt a loose skid plate, exhaust guard, or loose pipe like I wished it was.I pulled the pipe off and found some scoring on the piston.

17A22484-9F82-4060-9471-EC4453484A72-17502-00000E8586EA5C4E_zps5c9c1aac.jpg?t=1368498396

Not sure how bad the cylinder walls are, but im definatly confused by what looks like a white paint drip on the wall...

E264316D-7391-459D-AC08-65416125D1DE-17502-00000E858C1E80CC_zps8075f9c7.jpg?t=1368498396

But thats not what is causing the noise. Im not sure how well this video shows it, but the rod bearing seems to have a bit of play. What I didnt show in the video is the noise that it makes when the piston is returning from TDC. Im no pro or amature builder but something dosnt seem right...

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Time for a top and bottom end... Sounds like rod bearing failure. Cooksy Cranks on KTM talk can fix you up better then new!!

  • Like 1

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Yeah- Cooksey cranks. I sent my whole motor to him, he is great, shows pics of a whole album for you, all your parts, and I would reccomend him over anyone.

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Hello jp,

I concur with with the above comments ie the needle rollers in the bottom end are starting to let go. The noise you are probably hearing is piston slap damaged by the deteriorating bearing. Eather way needs a top and bottom end rebuild.

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Ya looks like an expensive adventure for me. Ill start pulling the engine out tonight and see how bad everything is. Im hoping the cylinder does not need to be replated. Doing the bottom end alone is out of the budjet! Oh boy how do I break the news to my finacial advisor (aka wife). Ill have to start researching bottom ends too, not sure if its best to have the crank rebuilt or get a new crank assembly (HotRods, oem is too expensive)....

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Ya looks like an expensive adventure for me. Ill start pulling the engine out tonight and see how bad everything is. Im hoping the cylinder does not need to be replated. Doing the bottom end alone is out of the budjet! Oh boy how do I break the news to my finacial advisor (aka wife). Ill have to start researching bottom ends too, not sure if its best to have the crank rebuilt or get a new crank assembly (HotRods, oem is too expensive)....

If you do the job yourself, and Andrew Cooksey can rebuild your existing crank, you're probably looking at $400-$425 for all the parts for top and bottom end (including all seals, new main bearings, etc.)

It's not too hard to do if you just stay organized with all the parts. :cool:

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Costed me 900$ for Cooksey to do my motor, top- bottom end after all the oil costs and everything. Not too bad compared to a 4 stroke

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Last time I heard a howl like that was when the neighbor's dog was chasing a rabbit across the back field when they got to the barb wired fence the rabbit skeetered under it and the dog tried to jump it, dog came up a little short and caught his nuts on the fence, your bike sounds just like the dog did, yup, he had to have his bottom end rebuilt too :smirk:

I just rebuilt the motor on my 300, I think I'm into it to the tune of $700.00 but when I'm done it will be a brand new motor with all new plastics & graphics.

Edited by Rider 41
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Thats it mate rebuild or replace the crank. probably only $150 difference over your way. The barrel will almost certainly need attention. Once again over your way around $250, in Oz around $500-$600 Once you have it down check your gearbox bearings for play particulary the check he countershaft bearing which is under a lot of stress. Also check the shift forks are in spec and shift mechanism

Good Luck

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I was able to get the top-end off last night. The pistion is ovbiously trashed, looks like the cylinder will need to be sent out, theres a small crack near the power valve. Anyone use Meleniumplating.com? Does Cooksy do anything with replating? Contact email for Cooksy? I cant signup for KTM Talk (I have a free email account). Looks like the bike might have been loading up a bit, suppose ill have to ride faster in the trails.....

4BE5B1BB-2122-49A7-8A4D-85FCF8EBF4E7-18722-00000FE1E130F829_zps268eae44.jpg

8667C964-D602-4C04-BB78-2C98C1C35815-18722-00000FE1D4CFAC9E_zps269e604e.jpg

8667C964-D602-4C04-BB78-2C98C1C35815-18722-00000FE1D4CFAC9E_zps269e604e.jpg

Are the ware marks on the crank normal? Seems like there is a lot of side to side play, can say there is much of up and down play....

CA2D2C04-CBA9-459B-B457-C38DC02761C2-18722-00000FE1DA7439E0_zps896c3786.jpg

Would this be considered a lot of blow by?

BA90936E-246B-4BFC-9C95-E498C9725968-18722-00000FE1CF95DFD4_zpsa08ec105.jpg

66179EC5-2978-47D9-A374-D22564D0BEA0-18722-00000FE1C9DA3AC7_zps93f1b72c.jpg

79F35DE8-6285-4AEB-AE41-0A5AC471ED98-18722-00000FE1C3EAD634_zpsce1eb7d7.jpg

1B7B6CE8-D8AE-4FDA-899A-D9C1295E42BF-18722-00000FE1BE9681C2_zps0ae49401.jpg

BAA65A73-CE00-4803-BF18-3CB39434C740-18722-00000FE1B5A91382_zpsd73f9e2f.jpg

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I just had my cylinder re-plated by Langcourt Coatings http://www.langcourt.com/ in Alabama. It was $225.00 shipped back to me, took about 2 weeks. They were very good to work with. I had checked with Millenium as well, they were more expensive then Langcourt.

One of the reasons I went with Langcourt was a fellow rider had his done there a couple of months earlier and he was very happy with them.

Link to Cooksey http://www.cookseycrank.com/

Just my $0.02 worth..

Edited by Rider 41

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Does anyone know the difference between the OEM Piston Kit I and OEM Piston Kit II?

I would assume that is an A piston vs a B. You want a B piston I would think.

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